@@ElProverBIO We did not use a primer since the product we used was self priming in most conditions. If there were issues with tannins or sap, we would recommend using a primer first. There are also products available to help with peeling and blocking tannins at the same time which work well. Here is one we recommend: maddogprimer.com/2021/04/26/deck-fix/

@@robinrae7148 We believe it was previously a solid color stain, however it is possible it was a porch & floor paint. Either way, with proper prep it is okay to use a solid color stain on top without adhesion issues. We used SuperDeck from Sherwin Williams: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain

@@rachelshim3122 We did not prime with a separate primer, however to achieve proper coverage we did have to apply 3 coats of the extra white paint.

@@dariomendoza175 Glad this may have helped!

@@davidkugler1376 Thanks for your thoughts. We should have been more clear regarding the pressure washing. It was used at a distance of 18”+ and more of a tool to rinse away dirt, dust and grime. You are absolutely right about it tearing up the grain, if you get too close. Staying at a safe distance away and understanding what can happen if using the tool in the wrong way is definitely important to note and we appreciate you saying something. We will definitely have to share in a future video. Primer can help in some circumstances, however it isn’t always necessary depending on the topcoat being used and the type of substrate. Thanks again for commenting and sharing your knowledge 👍

Glad this may have helped. Two of our favorite brands for mechanical sanders are Festool and Surf Prep. Both have multiple options and sizes depending on the exact type of surface/substrate/coating you are working with. Thanks for watching!

​@@improovy good stuff I'll only be using it a very small number of times so will go for a cheap and cheerful sander.

@@mryan4452 Makes sense. Some decent ones at HD or Lowes that fit this description.

Glad the video helped! As you mentioned, scraping the peeling paint and sanding to feather the areas where the paint was removed and where it is still sound is best. We also like to quickly scuff sand the areas where the existing paint is sound (not peeling) to help create adhesion of the new top coat. All the best with your project and thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for your comment, hope it helps on your next project!

Thanks for your question. The solid color stain we used is the topcoat and protective coating. It has similar qualities to paint, but allows the wood to breath differently than film building paint products. This is the product we used and the product information/description will help provide additional information: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain

@@improovy thanks!

@@ssme_ Great point. We will have to make another video to help explain how and give some options available to do so. Is there anything I can explain here or specific questions you have?

@@rabooey I have found the solid color stain stick well to many different coatings. Many manufacturers even recommend it to adhere to old composite decking material. I find the Benjamin Moore Arborcoat to stick the best out of all available, but think the SuoerDeck and other solid color stain products to be very similar. As long as you prep/clean the surface well and remove all the loose existing material, you should get great adhesion.

@@improovy Thanks, that gives me a bit more confidence.

@@sekritskworl-sekrit_studios Yes, typically the standard soft pad works well. It provides a little extra give around the rough edges. The hard pad can also work well. I suggest trying both depending on the surface and circumstances.

@@sekritskworl-sekrit_studios Unfortunately I can’t remember exactly which pad we were using at this time. I am assuming it was the standard soft fastfix round pad. I usually recommend this pad unless you are working exclusively on a flat surface (hard pad recommended) and the super soft pad for rounded and curved surface types.

@@ohyouvelittlefaith8181 Thanks for watching!

@@MarthaPalmeri Hope it worked and you had success. Thanks for commenting and watching!

There are a few different types of decking stains. The stain you are thinking about that absorbs into the decking boards is an oil based transparent or semi-transparent stain. This allows you to see the wood grain through the stain and enhances the wood grain/natural look of the wood. As decks get older, many people switch to a solid color stain (as seen here in the video). The solid color stain still allows the wood of the deck to breathe, but is opaque (similar to paint) but doesn't create as thick of a film on top of the wood. It can definitely get confusing when it comes to the difference between solid color stain and paint products, you are not alone!

It will depend on your preference, but we usually like to use 1/2" roller naps on decks when applying solid color stain.

@@ticker607 Yes, you can either prime or “prime” over those areas with a coat or two of paint and then re-roll the full wall with another coat to solve the flashing area.

Glad this was helpful for you!

Sorry for the delayed response. Correct, you do not have to remove all the old stain. As long as it is clean, sound and sanded you are good to coat over the top of the existing.

The blue color will have faded and there is a chance there will be some wear on the stairs from foot traffic. It will show more wear if in area with snow and you use a shovel on the surface of the stairs and decking boards. We also recommend staying away from applying salt to wood deck surfaces as this can prematurely damage the stained surface.

not when using a solid stain

Sherwin Williams 6243, Distance

Glad it helped

I don’t think sanding is necessary if you’re going to power wash it. But it will create a new look I think or atleast a better look and smoother finish

Use 30 second cleaner

Sorry for our delayed response. Yes, you want to paint the railings first. That way if you accidentally drip, you don't have to worry about dripping on the freshly painted decking boards.

An orbital sander has a little more flexibility, especially if the boards are cupped at all. I recommend trying both and go with whichever works the best. It may make sense to use both. Not sure what you mean by the beams? Do you mean between the boards or between the spindles/posts? If between the railing spindles, they make angled or triangle sanders that work well for tighter spaces.

@@improovy boards / beams, tomato / tomato 🤗it was the word that came to my head at the time lol I got lucky and the last person didn't even stain in between lol smh but thanks for the advice next time I might not be so lucky

That’s great, glad it helped!

Sorry for the delayed response. If the boards are pressure treated, it is ideal to make sure they are dried out before staining or applying product. We recommend waiting until the wood is between 15-18% moisture content. In some cases if the treated boards have tannins bleeding through, they may require an oil based primer to seal it in, especially if going with a lighter color stain. Otherwise, if needed you can prime with an oil based primer and then apply the water based solid color stain over the top without any issues.

Sorry for the delayed response. We used Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Solid Color Stain

Taping casings is a personal preference. Some painters like to and others like to freehand cut in the casings.I typically like to cut them in freehand. I do tape them off in the tight areas where it is harder to get a brush between the casings. You can see this about 3/4 of the way through the video.

Hello do you ever figure out? I am about to this many thanks

They used festool, a fancy brand.

We like the Festool brand sanders because they do connect to an extractor to help control the dust, however the extractor isn't absolutely necessary outside. As long as the existing finish is sound, not all of the existing stain/paint has to be removed. This would only be the case if you wanted to use a transparent or semi-transparent stain.

happy to be helpful!

Sorry for our very delayed response. A clear coat is not required with this type of solid color stain. Two coats of the product is sufficient.

When you say probably followed by just a fact. DOES NOT MAKE IT A FACT.. some people have free time but not alot of money. And would rather do it this way. Especially if your going to sell your property

well that was quite fast so i doubt it. especially that, what would be the point of replacing the wood to paint it blue afterwards?

Extra White by Sherwin Williams! Here's the link to the paint color if helpful: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/SW7006-extra-white

Looks great, thank you!@@improovy

@@andrekazi happy to be of service!