Aah! The results of the car's maintenance over the years. I believe I would do exactly is I did in he 60s, when I was spending my spare time on cars and girls! Finish taking down the block, pulling out the bearing shells and re-installing the caps after removing the crank. Pull the head studs, try to knock out the visible crap plugging the water passages, then knock out the core plugs. Hammer the pistons out, using your favorite BMFH and a hunk of hardwood. Strip the head likewise, then take both to the machine shop of your choice to be hot tanked, later to have the cylinders bored to a standard oversize, and new pistons and rings fitted. You will probably want to check the deck of the block, and the head for flatness. A good machine shop can do wonders for you. You'll need new cam bearings installed after boiling out the block, as the caustic solution they use attacks everything but iron or steel! Parts for the Sprite should be readily available, as they made a zillion of them, and they are getting more and more popular. I had a co-worker who had one back then, and he loved it greatly. I can't give you and brand particular advice, as I was chest deep into Studebakers at the time!

Using the absorbent stuff is a great idea😊.

You could say that was just a little smarmy, you never know there could still be hope👍

Seen a few engine's like that threw the years. Cleaning all the parts with a pressure washer was a fun time. A old rain suit is in order when you do that! Never know until you get it cleaned and inspected!! Hope it can be salvaged!!

Bleccchh. I'm glad KZbin doesn't have Smell-o-vision. I've heard the Limeys chromed a lot of their cylinders. I wouldn't write the block off quite yet.

If you get rid of the top you won't need a rear window. Sports cars don't have tops anyway. That's what makes them sporty.

It's a cream puff!!

I think you'd get a lot more views without that intro.

I really enjoy the commentary. I've been there working on a MGB. Keep the videos coming!

That flywheel came of with less torture than expected 🤔

I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!

Sounds like you are next to a NAS. Navy man?

The thing about British engines is, if there isn't oil under them, there's no oil in them.

I love the content! But, (and I don't wanna be "that guy") the first person camera work is making me sea-sick, The shots taken from the tripod are much easier to watch.

I've discovered when removing 45 year old tires, it's far quicker to break the bead loose, cut the bead wire with bolt cutters and then take a sawzall with a metal cutting blade to the carcass of the tire. I'm too damn fat and old to Fu... umm. mess around with tire spoons and stuff on tires that are going straight in the trash anyway.

Hey Bob, these are a little before my time, I’m surprised the fasteners aren’t British Imperial Standard. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. Looking forward to the progress 👍

Guess you could say you’re giving your spanners a work out! Talk about shoehorned in🤔

Yes that old oil filter assembly! I don’t know if you’re going all original or some upgrades, but I highly recommend the spin on oil filter assembly (readily available). Much easier to change the oil. 👍

Quick buff with some compound and you're gold. Seriously a big job ahead of you Bob, but certainly doable, I'll watch your progress with interest...

Your best bet is to get it barely running, put insurance on it, run it into something, and have the insurance declare it totalled.

I cant wait to watch the progress Im still working on my 61 bugeye kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYCQg6FmrtWFj80si=5ITUf5SfIThaIxXr

SU = Skinners Union carburetor

Considering the age and existing rust, the bolts came out fairly easy it seems like. I found that to be the case with mine as well. Did you need to use any penetrant solution like WD40?

Apart from the carbs, it is the same set up as the Morris Minor because it is the same engine. Removing an engine from a Morris Minor follows the same procedure/steps but there is more working space.

I just started watching this episode and I hope you drained the gearbox oil!😮

If you have not already checked out the Econobox Garage channel I highly suggest it. Ian has just completed a complete restoration on a bugeye . 150+ episodes. It will really save you a lot of time and energy on the learning curve. I’m doing a restoration as well and it has helped me immensely. Good luck with your project.

Hope to see this one come back to life again. Got a 1940 ford pickup i been building on. It had no floors whatsoever so i took square tubing to frame up a floor structure and to mount cab with. Its sitting on a 2003 blazer frame that i had to narrow up just so cab would fit. And it has a 305 SBC In it. Should be a fun ride when finished. It was really to far gone to make original. But as far as a rat rod.i had the frame and enfine laying around and the square tubing. So trying to stay on a very tight budget and use mostly what i have already

should have refinished the wheel first before putting on the new tire

For those who don't know, in its native land (England) it's an Austin Healey "Frog Eye" Sprite.

Can’t wait for the engine rebuild episode! Lookin’ good Bob 👍

The trick with that style jack is set it up so that it isn't vertical - the top further from the bodywork. This way the jack becomes upright as you raise making it more stable and avoiding the top denting a panel.

They were a great little engine. My dad's car in the 60's here in UK was an A35, same engine I believe, we did thousands and thousands of miles in that uncomfortable thing on family holidays, and his weekend 'history tours' Fond memories.

It’s amazing how simple the engineering was to put these together. Look forward to the next installment 👍

My dad drove three Austin A40's in Canada, from 1955 to 1963. They were B series engines I believe. He said these cars were only good for 25,000 miles, so your little A series engine likely had reached the end of its service life in 1967. It was a whole different era, and British cars especially didn't have a long life. Even back in Britain.

That is not the jack that came with the Bugeye. The original is better, but not by much. The rear springs are quarter elliptical. Half elliptical springs were introduced on the square bodied Sprites and Midgets. By the way the quarter elliptical springs are 15 leaf. You are correct about the 10 leaf replacements changing ride height. It causes the rear to ride higher, but they make wedges to shove in the spring box the will bring the rear back down. Having restored a Bugeye from the ground up, boy, do you have your work cut out for you. Not to mention the expense these days. Watching your videos with anticipation though and wishing you luck.

Couple of weekends and off you go!

I'm sure you already know, but here in the UK we know this as a frog-eye Sprite. Back in the 60's I had the MG Midget, which, unlike the frog-eye, came with a boot (trunk) 🙂

This looks promising Bob, I'll be watching with interest. I found the background music a bit distracting (I'm hearing impaired), maybe you could lower the level a bit when you're speaking?

I took another look at this jack and it is a "Bilstein AB 1988." It is similar to Mercedes Benz jacks by Bilstein used from 1959-1966. However, I couldn't find and exact match of this jack so far. The question then becomes "Would you trust your Mercedes Benz to a jack like this?" Weird that it seems to fit the Bugeye Sprite almost perfectly. Makes me wonder if this was an aftermarket jack that a dealer or previous owner tossed in just to say the car comes with a jack.

The original jack is like a triangle, but even then you have to block the wheels, a round hole won’t help much

The original Jack is Some kind of a triangle

I think your sense of humour will come in handy during this minor make over👍

I love it!

I think I'd put some triangulated brace legs on that jack. A little design and some welding and they could fold up too.

Hey ,ill sub you but i couldnt get in or out of a bug now...AND..how many folks out there do you think even know what a bug is ?..i did have a datsun 2000 for awhile...i can say that...now that was a fast car...

The screw jacks have locating pins to stop it turning, others used square tubing.

That jack isn't the original jack for a Sprite, but you probably already know that..?

Had a 1960 T-bird that must have had 8 foot long leaf springs in back. A flat tire had you place the jack into a slot on the bumper and raise it almost to the last click on the jack post just to get the tire off the ground. It was a suicide jack - just like this one! Cool video.

Best of luck carting your hydraulic trolley jack around in a Frogeye Sprite. You probably also want some axle stands, a warning triangle, & perhaps some cones. Even back in 1958, punctures were still quite rare events. They have only really become prevalent with modern low aspect ratio tyres, and poor road maintenance. That jack was meant for an EMERGENCY, which was rare. In 50 years of driving, I think I could count the number of roadside wheel changes on one, or maybe two hands. When you jack the car up, put it in gear, & apply the handbrake. If you're lifting the back end, use chocks under the front wheels, then it should not roll forward or back. Have you SEEN the jacks on modern cars, like M-B, or Ford? Better still, buy a Citroen, with hydro-pneumatic suspension, all you need is a log, rock, or couple of bricks.

As long as used as intended it is perfectly fine. When the wheels are chocked the other side and then raised on the jack, there 3 good contact points- always assuming no corrosion in the sills of course. And remember to loosen the nuts before raising it, too many forget the basics.