Really enjoyed your article, I used to raise Romanov X sheep. Would suggest molasses in the water trough (approx 1/2 a coffee can to 25gal) to prevent ketosis, would also suggest guardian dogs and a good herding dog as it works out for you(you can avoid feeding coyotes and a herding dog opens up a whole new world of management but it all takes time to get together). At one point I was running 150 ewes with their lambs, some goats, and 5 rams 1buck, had access to around 1000 acres, paid no leases, owned no ground. I would be on as many as 5 different places at once and had a grazing route.

Xft you can if you need what you want... oky ttfnow

I like using "Quickwall brand" its white, its a little pricey but its very durable/strong

Guess where those blocks came from? That's right, the grid.

What is the size of one block in mm? Length n width

What about filing all the blocks with concrete?

Cool

Put a round file in your drill

❤❤❤❤❤

I'd double up on the vertical rebar if the wall is retaining earth, but in general, this method is perfectly acceptable. Bonding the blocks together with mortar adds no additional strength.

The Exacta fence fits...I upgraded mine in 2002 right after I bought the saw.

Very healthy looking sheep. I’m sure you are proud of them. 👍

The birds sound soooo beautiful this time of year

I’m binge watching your build today. Just came up, and I’m sick in bed, so I thought I’d watch it. Very interesting build, I’m enjoying it. Im wondering why you don’t have more viewers. Anyway, you’ll hear from me again as I watch more. Oh, what size of property are you building on, and do you not have inspections? Thank you very much

I've been in the masonry industry all my life, grew up in it. I've never seen anything so stupid as this!!!

I like your dog.

Just what I needed, a lovely video from nowhere mountains. And great choice of music. Thank you for making me smile.

11:00 You should use a card board to transfer the shape to the wood board; that will be much faster.

David, you are amazing. From computers and city life with a sideline of making furniture to carving out a whole new, beautiful life in the country. Wow and well done!

How close did you space the vertical rebars in the CMU blocks for this wall? And out of curiosity WHY dd a DRY STACK and not mortar the CMU ?

These videos really show how far the building has come, and all the steps along the way. Great job David ❤

This is just being lazy, incompetence, or ignorance of building norms and codes. Maybe all three.

Hmm I don’t get it. Seems dangerous….. anyone that goes to sit or lean on it and the wall topples over

As your video stands, I would caution viewers not to build a wall this way unless it is non-structural. I am assuming you vertically core-filled the block with rebar in them and the non-rebar cores are left hollow. That gives your wall almost no structural strength again side loads (Earth) except for a solid column every 4’-ish. Parging a wall adds nominal strength only. It is merely a waterproofing and cosmetic addition. The video said you parged 1/4” but it showed about 1/16” layer so you must have added 3 more coats? Even 1/4” Portland cement is “brittle.” Concrete/grout is strong because of the aggregate added to portland. The bigger the aggregate the stronger the mix. Portland is just the glue that holds the aggregate together. It adds little in actual strength. I don’t know what your walls are for and this video is incomplete so I pass no judgement on you. Simply a caution to viewers thinking they can skip grouting CMUs by adding a few core fills and parging the outside. If it was that easy then every mason would build walls this way. Check out Mason the mason or Mike Hadock (maybe Haddock) on structural wall building.

I really think if you breed them with dairy sheep like awassi from Turkey they are pretty hardy breed and can live on poor to average hay to see what you may find in coming generations. If you can get the "prolific breeding" trait with "high milk" production, you may create a new breed. because these sheep are pretty adorable, I really like triple purpose breeds where you can get fleece, meat, and milk. With 1/3 seeds, 1/3 hay,1/3 fermented silage with some sea salt in their drinking water to get all the minerals they require.. I hope to have a sheep farm one day. I really love to have meat milk and fur production on my own.

Because there have been a number of comments regarding SBC, its longevity and strength, here is a post from NCMA. ncma.org/resource/surface-bonded-concrete-masonry-construction/ If you read through, you'll find SBC is just as strong (or stronger) as mortar with the exception of compression unless you grind the mating surfaces. Working the math, unground CMU is about 30% strength which is about 750psi. I calculate the weight of the building *including* footers/block walls and 70 psl live load/80psi on roof @ 300,000 pounds. A 2000sf house is about 400K pounds, this building is 900sf, so I'm way over estimating the building weights. There's 495 square inches of bearing on the three walls from 11 columns and 30' short 2x6 framed wall which is ~610 psi, well under the 750psi as listed. BUT this does not account for filling ALL voids with concrete, in our build a 2,500 psi mix. Code requires, in many regions, filling the voids that have rebar.

If you think that nailgun takes a lot of reloading you should try my compact pasload. Only holds one pack of paper 30 degree nails. Made for remodeling but seems to get into all the difficult spots much easier.

In cold climates the vapor barrier belongs on the heated side of the insulation because it is warm air that Carrie’s the moisture which then condensates against the cold surface on the outside of the insulation.

Your dog's name should be "Faithful"

Some appear to have a solid black face like a Suffolk and others have a very pronounced white blaze pattern. Have you noticed any pattern of inheritance with the white markings?

I just put in a 3d fence on my western Kitchen garden because of an especially vicious doe who has declared war on the garden and has destroyed multiple beds of plants in 4 successive nights and set me back months... She even digs to get under the fence and when confronted last night, she tore apart the fence getting out... She's a complete menace and I'm desperately trying to keep the b1tch out of the garden. I've never seen a deer this determined to destroy every last plant in a garden... She even tears plants out just to tear them out - Absolutely does it out of spite. Tomorrow I electrify both the regular garden fence and the 3d line I put in - I hope it sends a message to her of "GTFO of my garden and stay out..."

This is the worst idea ever.

Can dry stacking be used on a typical below grade, full basement footing (footer 6-7’ below grade)? What about in norther US where we have a freeze/thaw cycle?

I've never seen headers done like this. Headers are supposed to be as thick as the studs themselves. Usually they are done with 2x10s or bigger depending on the span with a filler strip of 1/2' plywood to thicken the header to match a 2x4 stud.

Just wondering what is going to keep the whole thing from racking off the concrete block walls and tumbling down the hill? Do you plan on some sort of bracing high to low?

Hey bud I know this is a year ago but those Simpson ties the screws the 500 count you was talking about to make a post being where did you get those at what's the number on them or can you tell me how to get them I appreciate you keep up to go work looks good brother

tree monkey 😂😂

5:09 - such a fluid mixing process, what a freakin team 🙌🏽 Wall looks great like a full crew came out and did it

Late to the game with this series! Soo flippin amazing 🙌🏽 Surrounded by a lot of rotting-wood based return walls and I had no idea that you can dry stack block in the beginning ~ and build such a strong wall You guys owned it for this project!! 🙌🏽

I was in the home building business for over 45 years. The business originated as a masonry business, as my father was a bricklayer by trade. Of coarse much of the work was blockwork. Actually a dry stacked wall done properly as this one is, with vertical rebar and a bond beam with rebar then the entire wall filled with concrete is much stronger than a conventionally layed wall using mortar joints. The parging is simply to cover the joints and add a finish look. However, the parge coat would also add an additional strength factor if fiber is added to the mortar while mixing.

Nice work so far but my only concern about no header or jack studs holding it up or the lower corners of the window is the snow load on your roof,, just sayin

Hi Dave, please add this one on the BarnBuild playlist. I was following there and this one is missing. Anyway, great job on the build, good content!

Nice chain saw work

Unless you fill those cells with concrete, and run rebar every 3rd cell, you have very little lateral strength ...After a few winters of heaving and settling it will begin to tweak on you.....the surface coating does very little for strength...those that have lucked out, Bravo.....But every one that stands there are triple that eventually fail...There's no real shortcut to a proper foundation

Does this 3D concept really work??? What is a I put up an 8’ and then put a shorter electrified fence outside my taller fence

how do you manage the grass/vegetation that grows between the two rows?

Nice place you have there

You had the gin pole on the wrong side of the wall

Well done. So much easier with 2

At least with beam number 2 you can avoid the issues you had with the first beam. I’m a DIYer, and the satisfaction you get from getting there in the end is great, even though it’s been a torture to get there. I’m also aware that not all so called professionals, are professional. Keep on in there you’re doing well