For real ! I was cussing left and right changing my brake pads lastnight still haven’t finished up the front but boy the rear pads stressed me out

@@toddwhaley728 your welcome bud

@@travisconley8088 not a hard job bud you can do it 💪

@@TheBen1114 hi thanks for viewing and glad its gave you confidence to wrench yourself. I used OEM Harley gaskets i dont like going aftermarket on some things like gaskets for the engine. Im not sure what size torque wrench you have but i got in with mine just struggle for the rear cylinder rocker cover on the back bolts. Just dont go overkill and try and remember the pressure you put on to torque the bolt you can get to. Also locktight is a must . Good luck

@@harleyloco1853 thanks for quick reply,where do u order harley oem parts, cheers bud

@@TheBen1114 had mine from Wolverhampton Harley Davidson i rode over as they had them in stock

@@harleyloco1853 cheers mate

@@Fresh-ld2dm no problem glad it helped you 💪

Its not a strobe light. Its the rear singal lights flashing so i can connect the tail light and intergrated signal lights to the correct wires.

Itnwas a relief after reading some horror stories. The bikes an 07 Road King and it is stage 2 tuned. 30k miles when video was created. I went back in at 37.5k to change cam chain tensioners also. No gear drive as of yet i was tempted to but its a mega cost here in the UK

The Jims primary bearing kit doesnt fit this model. The auto primary tensioners are fine unless your running high power and are heavy on the throttle drag starts etc

Hi the reason i strap the pedal down is to prevent having to bleed the brake after the switch has been changed. Have faith in yourself you will do it 💪

Hi thank you so much for your reply really appreciate your time & help . I had broken down on the way to Dave day 8th June . So I will have a go myself you sound very local to me West Midlands & I have sub to ya Chanel thanks 🇬🇧👍

@@richardperry5880 ah nothin worse then breaking down. Get it done yourself check back in if your stuck or update us on if you have done it.. very simple job .. im in Birmingham buddy

@@richardperry5880 you both have a brown roach infestation! Get them out before England becomes brown!

Hi hope this helps Primary oil Maybe a primary cover gasket if you damage original one Primary bearing and race Tools Primary bearing/race puller installer they can be a nightmare to get the race off if you look through my videos theres a tutorial on doing it with the tool but i have had to use a dremmel to cut the race then split it with a chisel. Good luck take your time

Hi personally i never did. Is it a problem your having all the time hot or cold engine?

@harleyloco1853 it was an issue hot or cold, and only got progressively worse this past couple of weeks. It would take multiple crankings to get it to fire. I was originally thinking it was poor fuel pressure, since I could cycle the kill switch a few times and it would eventually fire up, but I wound up shooting some carb cleaner up inside the valve, and it seems to be better so far, though it initially had trouble cranking up, and occasionally still idled pretty low, but it hasn't shut down. I'll do more riding this weekend and see if it comes out of it.

@@gagepuffinbarger6939 in the rear if the front chlinder theres is a temperature control valave. Maybe worth a check and change to see if your problem is still present.

@@harleyloco1853 I'll check that out if the problem persists.

@@harleyloco1853 Been riding the bike for a little bit, and have a few things to note. It doesn't seem to be having an issue with idling after cleaning the IAC valve, but it has still had issues with starting. The start button on the bars went out last year, and i just wired in a momentary button to put voltage to the starter, and it had been working up until recently. It'll just crank over and over without firing up until after a certain amount of cranking. I tried pushing my temp switch and then tapping the original start button while it's cranking, and it fires up immediately. My guess is that when using the original start button, it sends something to the ECU to retard the timing, or maybe letting the headlight go out allows for better amperage to the starter and/or the ignition system, or maybe it sprays in an extra bit of fuel, because when I press the original start button, the headlight goes out but doesn't start. Kind of odd how only recently it's been having trouble starting, but eventually I will bite the bullet and order new switches and spend the money...

Funny you saying that i pulled up at a cafe the other day and a fella had one on his but i thought it looked ugly. The oil coolers look a bit bettwr you can hide them down the front. You thinking of running one on your ride ?

Yea you can set the ebs up a few different ways . The ebs and oil cooler are two different things the ebs stops the blow by from entering your intake I never had the need for a oil cooler I run a straight 50 wt sae 60 wt during the hottest part of the year compared to 20-50 it cuts engine temps dam near in half the manual only calls for 20-50 when it’s a little above 40degrees cold weather other most people don’t realize they need to run the correct oil the manual calls for maybe good for the M8 because they come with coolers but the vtwin not the same and I’m not a know it all we just have the same dam bike lol just different cams and styles.

To answer the question yes I’ve been running the ebs for 15 years now I stand by it

@@robertross4274 do you have video link to something similar that you run ? Be interesting to see. The one i seen the other day was very ugly looked out of place.

@@harleyloco1853 yea I agree did he have it right under the air cleaner I don’t like that look either mines is routed to a bracket that sits between the bag a passenger foot peg on the left side but doesn’t interfere with the passengers foot out of site it only coughs up when I’m at high rpm’s 90-100 mph for 30 40 miles at a time or when I met a guy at the red light and we dump the throttle wide open for the quarter mile .

What bike and what have you done so far ?

@@harleyloco1853 put grips on so I have adjusted both cables in and out. New battery. Also I cleaned the throttle body to the best of my knowledge but I wasn’t aware turning the key and run switch on would help so maybe that’s why it’s still happening. It’s a 2015 dyna street Bob. It runs perfect just have to keep a little throttle on when idling at a stop sign or it will die occasionally. It seems like the idle needs turned up a pinch but it’s not possible to do that so I’m clueless

@@brodyrichard263 if cleaning it doesnt work it may need swapping out completley. Do you have any engine mods ? Hi flow air cleaner ? Is it cleaned and oiled correctly? Ive also known of bikes that have a tuner on them previous and the idle has been turned down in them and can lead to the issues your having. If you have an fp3 tuner you can adjust idle

@@harleyloco1853 no it ran perfect before

@@brodyrichard263 be something to do with your cables id say if you have had to mess with them? If it ran fine before and now only acting up.

Yes it sure did

Your welcome 💪

Glad you liked it thanks for viewing and thanks for the comment ✊🏻

Yea this can be a known fault ive seen it plenty of times. Also ive seen the total opposite where the bulb will not light at all when brake is pressed but the switch acts as if it is working when you touch both terminals with a wire the bulb lights up.

@@harleyloco1853 thank you

@@harleyloco1853 my front lights up my rear doesn’t. I’m hoping that the brake switch.

Thanks for viewing

Theres no wiring. Its plug and play