What's wrong with this guy??

i still love my 2017Macbook punches above it's weight except for getting rock a short battery life

I love the xgimi elfin, if the horizon is an upgrade like it's supposed to be from the elfin then it's great

bros fondoling a macbook

You should show what you did instead of telling it

Why are you leaving the other cpu die (io? video?) bare? You need to put some on both dies. Idk why you keep leaving it bare

Improving the thermal conductivity of the RAM results in more heat in the sink and that may elevate the temperature of the core.

We are wating fodmr result thNks mam

Muller Causeway

Jana Island

A lot of cards had issue running in that position. They just run hotter. Vapor chamber design is not very bright. Initially all GPU could run like that which is same position as in servers. But now, like 15 year ago, they changed fin orientation vapor chamber design and heatsink which make them to run cooler in horizontal position . With all that they still push a trend with riser cables, like there is no tomorrow. Try horizontal position for your GPU and shove it in a well cooled case. Fractal Torrent Compact is a good air cooled case. Dust around power delivery is too much. Is strange that you look at the performance of you pads but, you ignore details like - dust is a fair thermal insulator and with the right humidity level in your room will throw some small shorts all over PCBs and you'll find yourself troubleshooting unexplained errors in any OS and waste your time greatly. Don't be afraid of copper shims, they can't conduct any electricity cause simply can't escape the mounting pressure you apply when you re assemble your card. And don't use individual squares for each module, is counterproductive. Some memory modules run hotter than others, proximity to GPU or power delivery, bad design plating or heatsinks, faults in vapor chambers, bad plating and inconsistency. Basically you want to disperse the heat as fast as you can. Simply you have a bigger surface of copper or ceramic responsible to take the heat from VRAM and send it to the heatsink. In fact, with little squares is higher risk to escape the mounting pressure than with let's say, a shim that covers 4 modules. I've done my self several mods with copper shims and plates, even changed the stupid back plates of plastic or aluminum painted/ stickers and other crap with whole bare copper backplates. 8-15 C lower on VRAM. Never shorted a single card. 100 C I consider critical on VRAM specially where you have Hynix and Micron chips. Samsung chips tend to be more heat resistant but, is not enough info to staple that. I really don't care whatever manufacturer is saying that 110 C is safe on VRAM they never say for how long, 1 month, 4 months, 24/7 use or less?? IS plain BS!!!! the number of cards with artifacts I've seen, is sickening, caused by VRAM is huge specially starting with 2000 series onwards. Client is calling when is nothing can be done anymore because VRAM is gone 1 chip or 6 chips , who cares, card is dead or artifacts. The problem is why client did not called? - he believed the manufacturer >>>> 100 is safe or 110C is normal. Now the manufacturer sells another card. Work as intended. Hop[e it helps

There are professional laptops that you can call work stations. Are heavy, sturdy and most of them only have vapor chambers as cooling. None you'll find on the market for the end user will be that. Will cost you some thousands but, will last you as much as 5 of this gaming OLED **** The point is: you work at your desk anyway... why the laptop? I really can't see the point and I'm gonna call out the disadvantages. 1.Sweaty palms because of the heat coming trough keyboard. 2. Constant high pitched fan noise. Why high pitched? are just thin fans compared with desktop fans which are thicker and does not need high RPMs to cool down the parts. Those thicker desktop fans got a more pleasant humming noise and is way far from your ears. You can even sound proof the case. This issue alone is causing so much stress and disruption in your work and it does it on your own will and money. 3. Risk to spill drinks and mess up a lot of parts inside the laptop. On a desktop 4. Need to replace battery fast cause you need high power and you are constantly plugged to AC, that will were out your battery fast. 5. Bloat ware and spyware constantly hinder again your productivity. Again delivered to you by the manufacturer on your own money and waste of time after that. Unnecessary hardware and power usage, caused by that "mighty software suites designed to help you" Even you install a fresh copy of Win you breaking other things which I'm not getting into. I can fill up way more points along with the ones you mention. I fixed enough laptops to tell you is not worth it, your money and your time. Are just overated toys design for very short "planned obsolescence" . The only solution(I mean, a cheaper one) is a desktop and a normal laptop to transport and show your work or whatever. Hope it helps

Buys a couple of projectors and is an expert. Ive been using dlp projectors since before you were in nappies. I was looking for reviews on this projector. Yours doesn't sound like one. Sounds like someone with an serious issues with themselves

If you want great thermal paste use IC Diamond Thermal Compound FYI Purified synthetic diamond has a thermal conductivity of 2,000-2,500 W/mK, I change all my graphic cards and use this, it makes thermal grizzly stuff look bad

I read that ‘wobbily’ plug at source is a design choice to eliminate the chance of it breaking (something about that). same thing on steam deck

Your problem is that the heatsink "eating" up your liquid metal since it's surface isn't solid. Do another run and you should see better results

i only use liquid metal on nickel plated copper. the nickel plating prevents the copper from turning bad like at 0:25 after using it on bare copper for 6 months, i had to scrub it off the copper and then polish the copper with sand paper and a polish to make it flat again. its not worth it on bare copper and it will degrade way to quick. and for a laptop i would anyways use those thermal grizzly minus pads, which have to be never swapped out again and they perform better then thermal paste. (but they are quite expensive)

i simply did a copper shim mod u can put copper shims on the vrams, with thermal glue tape. and depending on how thick ur copper shims are, u can either put a bit of thermal paste or a 0.5mm thermal pad on top, to connect it to ur main cooler.

Who learn you to use liquid metal on copper heatsink? How did you pass the chemistry lab? Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut contains Galium and that one, my friend reacts with Copper and Aluminium, you know? Obviously you don't, as your video shows!.. You need a heatsink that is plated with Nickel!

As someone who was team liquid metal for nearly 6 years, don't use liquid metal on laptops. Most will be fine with it, but some just won't be compatible with it no matter how much effort you put into it without outright replacing the heatsink with something custom. I used to use it on all of my laptops until for some reason despite significant effort put into isolation some got loose after ~2 years and fried the vrm. Unlucky but leaves a bad taste when the other ~35 applications went perfectly fine. Fixed it eventually (micro soldering board repair is hard AF) but lesson learned. Some heatsinks aren't designed for it and attempting to create your own isolation barrier using just some foam and kapton tape doesn't cut it. Needs to be solid, essentially waterproof layer of tape around the die to guarantee no issues, plus you have to apply enough to account for the galvanization. You'll eventually run into problems with it with some laptop. I estimate failure rates of ~1-2%. So it may literally take ~50-100+ laptops before you personally run into an issue. But you WILL run into an issue eventually. To resolve all of that hassle with a very very close to 0% failure rate (probably around 1 in 100k), just slap a PCM on it and call it a day. Honeywell 7950, laird 7000, or other formulations of it unisiren pcm-1, thermal grizzy pcm, etc... It's not as good as a perfect application of liquid metal yes, but it has a service life you can measure in DECADES instead of months and will instantly shoot to the top of a thermal paste comparison chart (after about 6+ months) due to just how incredibly resistant to pump out it is. TLDR: Only use PCM based thermal interfaces on bare dies!

Where did you buy yours? I bought some on amazon last year and uts worked pretty decent and i barely found put a week ago thet my razer blade 15 stays around the 85-90 degrees C range even after I cleaned the fans and heatsink (there was barely any dust in either)

with normal thermal paste, do you notice any pump out effect with gd900? i bought areonaut from TG, that scored well at first before dropping to 3000, i then got syy157 which got me upto 3470 but that then dropped within 1 week to 3200, when i take the heat sink off the thermal paste appears to be milky and watery, not really a viscous paste anymore, is that normal with these macbooks?

dont buy macbook air there is no fans in 2024.... wtf

bro apply again after one month and no need to worry about whole year and also use conformal coating & Kapton tape and only thin layer you should apply after that one final coat just like thin paint and don't make any bubble

To anyone wondering, don't even consider liquid metal as a thermal interface. Use PTM 7950/7958, or Laird TPCM.

cool!

i've been using liquid metal for nearly a decade now, and in all my applications, all due to reasons others have detailed below, required a 2nd application of LM after about 6 months from the initial application. now i use kryosheets from thermal grizzly.

I don't agree. I have the same computer with an i7 processor, it works great. It has macOS and Windows installed, both operating systems work great. Internet search, Office, KZbin 4k and many other things. The battery lasts a very long time, sometimes all day. This computer is ideal for office and home work. If you need something more, you have the MacBook Pro.

No you didn't get scammed, gallium which is part of the LM alloy will eventually diffuse into cooper leaving the indium behind which becomes solid; That's why it's better to use it with nickel plated heatsink in order for it to work long term. But even then electroless nickel that is used by most nickel plated PC parts is too thin and again it will diffuse through. I electroplated my 6900xt oem heatsink to 0.1mm nickel plating thickness and 2 years later no issues with "drying". Eventually it will diffuse though this one too. I started using LM more than 10 years ago in my laptop that's why i know all these now. In fact i make my own LM compound, which is much cheaper if you use it often. In fact it will last me more than a lifetime. edit: Regarding to PTM7950 i haven't use it personally yet, but no it will not last forever and it won't perform as good as LM. In your laptop heatsink it will be ~5oC difference is my guess because your heatsink is very "weak" so you are not limited so much by the TIM. What makes PTM7950 so good is that it doesn't pump out like regular paste and is also very good thermally conductive compared to other good pastes.

yo idk if you know this or not but ptm7950 is a good alternative to liquid metal

As another commenter said, the liquid metal seeped into the copper heatsink. This is expected behavior when applied to a bare copper heatsink. When this happens, apply more liquid metal and do *not* polish or try to remove what has already mixed into the copper. This second application will hold for much much longer (possibly forever). Nickel plated copper heatsinks don't have this problem and the liquid metal lasts effectively forever on those. If it "evaporated" then every PS5 sold would be an overheating mess.

It's your responsibility to check the settings before you use your equipment. You destroyed your stuff because of a stupid mistake you made. If you're working with tiny threads and screws, you can buy tape to put in between your screwdriver and the tip of the screw to give you more torque.

liquid metal isnt evaporate. just sipped into copper. you only need to reapply once more and you are set for years a tip for someone wanna try LM. apply LM to heatsink a generous amount and let it there for about 3 days. the gallium will form a layer of GaCu2 on the surface of the copper heatsink. then wip clean and apply LM normally -> put back to the laptop. this layer of GaCu2 will prevent Ga sipping into Cu again. making the performace last nearly forever

👀

The need to bring this back with an M chip

You should check out PTM7950 it wont damage your deviceand you get like a 10C improvement.

PTM7950. I got it. Please stop mentioning it in EVERY DAMN COMMENT!

Try ptm7950 it make good contact, will not damage your device it and you don't need to change it out occasionally like paste. I used it on my laptop and it make 10C improve from artic mx-4. Hope that helps.

What I learned, after you apply it, you must not disassemble it, the temperatures will get shitty even when you clean it as best as you can. Only solution is to buff out the heatsink, so that it's not "corroded". Reapplied LM with buffing the heatsink last year, and the temperatures are basically the same.

Put Honeywell PTM7950 on CPU and thermal putty on top of the heatsink so it will transfer the heat to the laptop case itself. Using thermal putty on CPU is stupid and just a no-go.

for a quick Benchmark, Thermal Grizzly is absolutely unmatched. But for long term usage, Arctic eventually beat Thermal Grizzly. All of their products be it Thermal Paste, Thermal Pad, Thermal Sheet, Liquid Metal. So, if you're aiming to achieve world record benchmark within 1 day, use Thermal Grizzly if you're aiming for long term usage and stability, use Arctic

This is a very interesting video. Thank you for posting it. I've experienced the exact same problem as you described. I've been using liquid metal with an Intel i7-8700k to help improve cooling for overclocking. After applying liquid metal for the first time in January 2023, the CPU temperature dropped significantly by about 15 degrees Celsius, and I was able to easily and safely overclock the CPU to 5 GHz. After about 6 months or so, I noticed a slight increase in the CPU temperature. It continued to get worse, to the point where I had to lower the CPU clock speed. After a couple more months, around October/November time, I had to lower the clock speed again to 4.7 GHz. At that point, I decided to delid the CPU, and I found that the liquid metal had completely dried out. I cleaned all of the old liquid metal from the CPU die and the heat spreader and then re-applied the new liquid metal. Cooling performance was restored, and I was again able to increase CPU speed to 5 GHz. I have since upgraded to an AMD 7800X3D, so I'm not using the i7-8700k as much these these days. However, I suspect I would be getting close to the point where I would probably need to consider reapplying the liquid metal again. From my experience liquid metal is a short term solution that needs to be repeated every few months. I haven't experienced any long term damage caused by the liquid metal. However, my heat spreader is nickel plated. As far as I remember, I think copper does get damaged to some extent by liquid metal. If you replace the heat spreader with a copper version, I think Nickel plating is the way to go. If the heat spreader is plated everything should be fine. However, the liquid metal will still dry out and you will need to periodically clean the CPU and heat spreader and reapply fresh liquid metal. The same is true for most types of thermal paste, it's just that the liquid metal dries out a lot faster.

Gallium will chew the surface of regular heat sink with no special coating, so yea the problem is what u said

Also i noticed that you had better performance in feburary and worse in July... this could be because the ambient temperature increased - if your room is 5 degrees warmer then the CPU and GPU will also run 5 degrees warmer because the delta T between the CPU and the ambient temperature needs to be the same to conduct the same amount of heat energy.

Hey thanks for sharing your experiment, we can do some simple math and find that it really shouldnt matter what kind of thermal paste or liquid metal you apply as long as you apply some.... thats because the thermal paste is so thin and conductive enough, that the temperature difference across the paste is never more than ~2 degree °C even at max load when youre conducting 200Watts. So even if you welded the cold plate of the heatsink together with the IHS of the cpu you would only see a temperature improvement of 2 degree °C at best. You know the unit for heat conductivity "Watts per meter Kelvin" or W/mK...? What it means is if you have a cube of 1x1x1 Meter and a heatconductivity of 1 W/mK and a 1 Kelvin temperature difference across two opposing faces of the cube there will be 1 Watt of energy flowing through the cube from one face to the other. And that energy flow is liniearly proportional to Area, thickness, Heatconductivity and Temperature difference in Kelvin. (Kelvin is basicly the same as °C). So Really the unit is Watts per square meter area divided by meter thickness times Kelvin. - the Square meter and meter cancel out to leave only meter which can be confusing... Knowing this we can do a simple calculation for the heatpaste. Heatconductivity = ~ 8 Watt/mK Thickness = ~ 0.0001 Meter Area = ~ 0.001 Square Meter (10 square cm) Kelvin = ~ 2 degrees Watts = ( 8 W/mk * 0.001m^2 * 2K ) / 0.0001m = 160 Watts So even at only 2 degree added temperature across the thermal paste you will already conduct 160 Watts which is way more than a laptop needs - so realisticly the temperature across the thermal paste will only be 1 degree... What this means is that you cant improve temperatures of the computer much using different thermal paste... only when its dried and bad will it make sense to change out. Undervolting might help you alot more... if you undervolt your CPU and GPU just 10% you will see a delta T decrease of 10% also... so if youre running at 90 degree and 20 degree ambient with a 10% undervolt you will run at 83 degree... or 7 degree less.

You should probably try nickel plating the copper heatsinks for the laptop cause I heard it helps with the liquid metal from fusing as much to the bare copper on the heatsink

It wasn't necessary to remove LM from the heatsink and polish, it was enough to reapply it again, as some of it was amalgamated with the non-nickel plated cooper. Anyway, use Honeywell PTM7950. Liquid metal is a plague.

Liquid Metal in Long Term kzbin.info/www/bejne/imK9lpWnjbl5aK8

Liquid Metal in Long Term kzbin.info/www/bejne/imK9lpWnjbl5aK8

Liquid Metal in Long Term kzbin.info/www/bejne/imK9lpWnjbl5aK8