My pleasure AvgJoe! I hope the project comes together as planned!!

This one’s going to stretch me as we made this video over three years ago! 😅 Based on our regular setup at the time, my best guess would be: Panasonic GH4 or 5, with metabones speedbooster and sigma 18-35 at f2-2.8ish. Though we could have stopped down a bit more to control any ambient spilll a bit better. ISO 400. WB 5600k. The suspended backlight was a Falcon Eyes RX-12T flexible light mat with softbox and grid accessories. Hope that helps!

Yep, show glue should do the job.

@ just tried/used some superglue bc i already had it and only needed a few patches and it seemed to work… def created a stiff bond, but will work for what i need wo having to buy some more stuff… thanks for the response though!

No worries, super glue can work, it just dries hard as you’ve discovered. Thanks for watching!

@@marcojean-pierre3342 have you gotten in touch with support? They’re pretty hard to kill in my experience, you may have gotten a dud copy. Worth putting in a ticket if you haven’t already.

They really are!

@CreativePathFilms i have the original omni ( it doesn't hold much of a charge anymore ) They may be willing to replace the old battery with a new one though Bu lt I do know that to this day it is indeed built like a tank!!!

Yeah I think I have bought (almost) all of their models to date. The build quality has been consistent throughout. Perhaps! Worth reaching out to sales or support and see if they can do something for you. We’re still using our OG omni 20’s to this day as well.

Thank you!

I’m so glad it helped!!!

Great tip! Love that 🙏🏼 I’ve also seen people cut holes in their 4x4 diffusion sheets and softboxes, but I’m not a fan of that one. Yours is a much better solution 😅

@@plasebox my pleasure, thank you for watching!

Dude, thank you! Thats awesome to hear and I love that you’re enjoying the content. Yes, it’s been a common gripe. We’ve toned it down in our later videos, in retrospect it was waaaay too loud, but that doesn’t help these earlier ones 😅

Yes, it’s a tricky one and more of a category of light than a name. Different manufacturers give them different names. In tungsten lights, Redheads (800w) and blondes/blondies (2000w) are a common terms used. These lights I’m showing are Arri 800/750’s. Mole-Richardson name some of their lights open face. For these older style tungsten lights, you’ll want to look on the used market predominantly.

@@CreativePathFilms I will look at this further, it is very interesting. i try to get 4-5 lamps to start with. As I see it, there is no way around tungsten lamps. Or do you think that you can shoot a movie completely with LEDs (Apurture c120d II or Godox SL 200 II)? I have 2 good offers for both led lamps, but I fear that it is not possible to get the light as strong as a Fresnel lamp. Or rather, the look that makes up the beautiful old films is probably difficult to achieve with LEDs.

It’s certainly possible, most productions use LED lights these days and the aputure and godox lights are very popular. You can always mix and match. If you have some CTO/CTB gels, you can mix tungsten with daylight lights. Depends on what you’re going for and the needs of your shoot.

Here’s another video on tungsten lights that you might find useful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioicYX6jj5yHnNEsi=0QRlr8PtR73dI6Pu

Thank you, I’m glad you found the explanation helpful! Sounds like it has even more useful applications, I would love to learn to use blender!

You’re most welcome, I’m glad you found it useful.

You’re welcome!

The fog machines are pretty loud. A continuous hazer is a bit quieter. As for how long the fog will hang, it depends on the space. If it’s enclosed and not to large, once the space is filled up it should last for 3-5 minutes. Otherwise it will probably dissipate in that time.

Hi Shelley, I’m trying to imagine your setup, but having some difficulty putting all the pieces together. Sounds like a tricky setup!

Great buy!

So glad I could help! 😊 ~Dave

Ohhh, good question. To be honest I haven’t tested the hub function with either model transferring directly to an iOS device, so I’m not 100% on their compatibility. How are you planning on transferring your data from the camera to the iPad? Is it via USB on the camera or via SD card (etc). Some further details would help. Of the two, the omni 40C+ is more likely to be compatible, as it’s much newer with more up-to-date specs. It’s better and more versatile all round in my opinion, if you’re not planning on flying with it. The manual doesn’t give a clear answer, so let me see if I can replicate your setup over the next few days with our (standard) iPad to see if it works. Here’s a review I did recently on the 40C+ if you’re keen to learn more: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJzPlqefn9GhZrssi=TtLfaMJrI02198-_

Thanks so much for your prompt response. Your video on 40c+ was also great!👌 Yes, I usually fly for scuba diving purposes when I need to use a hub/power bank and thus, 40c+ model won’t work for me. I have a power bank and a hub now (i.e., 2 separate devices) and having both of them in one device would be a great option. 👍 I will be transferring 4K video files from my camera SD card to an external SSD drive and my iPad Pro itself for back up and viewing purposes. I also use the hub for transferring files between different hard drives through a windows laptop. I am concerned with iOS compatibility and transfer speed of 20c since it is an older model. I wonder if Omni is coming up with a new version of 20c given the current model was released in 2018 or 2019. Cheers

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! I was trying to keep the video short for this one! It was boomed directly behind the subject, over the top of the backdrop. I included it in the accompanying pdf as well. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 😊

Thank you!! I don’t typically use c-stands for 5-in-1’s. You need a second clamp on hand on the other end of the arm and in my experience the 2.5” grip heads can easily damage the outer frame and fabric of a 5-in-1. Because of their fixed length, the gobo arms also don’t fit all of the reflector sizes. You definitely can do it, I just tend not to. My preference is a designated 5-in-1 reflector holder like the ones by impact. They’re counter weighted, have clamps on either end designed for 5-in-1’s and they’re extendable, so they fit different sized reflectors. They also can be mounted on any 5/8” baby pin, so can go on either light stands or C-stands, so they’re pretty versatile. Downside - they’re not as strong or rigid as a steel gobo arm obviously. That’s my 2-cents! Thanks for watching!!

@@CreativePathFilms Awesome response Dave. Thanks for being so prompt. Have checked out the 'Impact Multiboom Light Stand and Reflector Holder - 13' (4m)'. Cheers

No worries, this is the one I own and use: www.amazon.com.au/Impact-Telescopic-Collapsible-Reflector-Holder/dp/B005GMV4CU

Thanks for watching mate! Yeah the bottles aren’t ideal, but if you don’t have what you need, you make use with what you’ve got!

You’re very welcome!

You’re very welcome!

They’re certainly popular!

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! That’s a huge compliment and this has been my goal for the channel since the start. Thank you for taking the time.

Thank you very much!

Haha, thank you 😅

You’re more than welcome!

Thank you very much!

@@CreativePathFilms thank you for the contents

You’re more than welcome. Thank you for watching!

My pleasure! 😊

My pleasure! I’m glad it helps!

Thank you! Unfortunately not, the DC port and rear hub share a power circuit, so can’t be used at the same time.

@@CreativePathFilms ahh ok thanks for the reply! For studio photography then to use the HDMI function (+front and back ports) while keeping the hub and laptop powered what solution do you propose? I couldn't really make out from the video..(PS: I also subscribed to the channel, good stuff!)

@nong78 thanks for subscribing! Glad you enjoy the content. To use the hdmi as well as the front and back ports, you need to 1. Enable “HDMI only” in the menu 2. plug in both USB-C port 1 and port 4 to the laptop with two different USB-C cables. 3. Plug in the HDMI cord and any Additonal USB accessories you need. Note you cannot pass-through charge (charge the omnicharge) with this setup.

@@CreativePathFilms Thanks for clarifying! When the hub runs out of juice, since I won't be able to use the DC port, would u recommend to power the laptop separately using the apple charger so we can still use the hub and have the data on both ports still pass thru and running?

@@nong78 Bro to keep it simple- if you want to use BOTH the front and back hubs simultaneously you CANNOT use any charge functions of the Omni period (including pass-through)…to use pass-through charging you’d have to limit your use to one hub at a time (either front or back)…connecting your laptop to power while utilizing both hubs does not power the Omni, so when the Omni battery eventually depletes you’ll have to discontinue use of both hubs and charge the Omni

Pleasure! 😊

Yes it’s matching the CT of the Tungsten light used for this showcase, which is also the second most common CT for film/video, after 5600k daylight. Much warmer than flash for stills! Tungsten halogen lights (3200k) have the highest possible color rendering/ color fidelity available from an artificial source. So I use them when demonstrating gels for color accuracy, as it mitigates any potential color temperature or green/magneta shifts (commonplace in LED’s, for example). I examine tungsten lights color fidelity in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3vUnopso82tsNUsi=xc8Kk4ni1dcuoD3P And discuss them more generally in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioicYX6jj5yHnNEsi=bQdgbE_AzQok_N9s And this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goKXfGetgteFn8ksi=K50uCard0-wvOPXy

@@CreativePathFilms thanks mate - appreciate the links - learning a lot about colour. I normally just use a colour checker passport and set camera to 5600K when shoot with strobes Keep up the excellent videos

@JohanSchmidt thank you for coming back and engaging here in the comments. Glad you’re finding the videos useful!

Thank you, we appreciate you taking the time to tune in! Have a great day 😊

Thank you so much!! 😊

Thank you very much, I appreciate your kind words! We put a lot of time into our videos.

Thank you 🙏🏼

We don’t at the moment, but thanks for the suggestion!

👍🏼

The 20C+ doesn’t have a DC port, only 2x USB-C ports and 2x USB-A ports.

Okay thank you, can we change voltage output for 2 usb-c ports?

Not manually, it automatically detects the appropriate USB-C protocol from the device it’s connected to. If you’re after a battery that can do high powered USB-C and had DC In/out capability, checkout my review on the omni 40C+. It’s a beast. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJzPlqefn9GhZrssi=GMdKkncD33Hk1RUv

Hi, Is this an omnicharge power bank?

@@CreativePathFilms no it is an oraimo product

@idrischris2138 I’m sorry, I don’t know the answer. This is how omnicharge power banks have been designed to calibrate, but it is not the same for other power banks.

Potentially. It warrants some experimentation, I have improved the CRI (very slightly) on LED film lights with appropriate correction gels. But as there is so much difference between different household lights from different manufactures in different countries that it would be near impossible for me to give you an accurate recommendation for the lights you have access to. You would need a spectrometer like the C-800 to know, which far our prices the cost of entry level film lights. One thing to note about gels, is they don’t add a color to a light, they block certain wavelengths of a light, except for the desired wavelengths. So a blue gel isn’t adding blue, it’s blocking everything but blue. If there is very little blue wavelength to begin with (eg the streetlamp discussed in the video) it would block the majority of the output and only allow a small amount of light would make it through, which isn’t very efficient. I will experiment with some household LED fixtures here to see if I can improve them at all, but I expect the change to be small. If you’re on a budget, the best thing to do is find some inexpensive tungsten halogen lights (they make in hardware store halogen work lights), and use full ctb to gel it to match daylight. This is how I started! Inexpensive, very hot, not very efficient, but they give excellent color rendering for an affordable price. I have a video called “working with tungsten film lights” you should check out! All the principals apply to any hardware store halogen light.

@@CreativePathFilms thats exactly what i wanted to know about... if a particular color is low in the spectrum... and if I reduce all other colors to that level, I thought it will equal the reading of all other colors... ofcourse, will have to compromise some intensity in the process, but getting a 50-100w led might solve this problem... and 2nd thing please also try with bouncing the light on unbleached muslin... it works for me, but I don't have a light meter, so cant actually know the readings... 6500k led battan light when I bounced on a unbleached muslin cloth, the light fallout on the skin looked decent in the footage, that looked good actually... no green cast or any other funny light cast which we normally get with low CRI lights... and for the part you mentioned about tungsten, my 1st project is majorly based in the jungle, so there will be no power to plug... i have to rely on batteries... that's why I asked if commercial low-wattage lights can work with tweaks...

Excellent series. Could you have a general description of what a specific indicator is used for - what is the problem that is being solved before showing the tool.

Hi Johan, thank you for your compliments! Could you please elaborate on your comment further? Are you referring to the indexes mentioned in the video? Or the conversation above 👆🏼

@@CreativePathFilms the readings in general - I’m coming from a still photo background and don’t know anything about making videos & movies. In general I use a sekonic 785 for my light and a colour checker for my colours and WB - very informative series and you have a solid way of explaining