Dude I love climbing, but I'll stick to the gym and 30m routes. Clenching my teeth thru whole video 😂

thank you for posting this. Think I'm going to make an attempt this weekend

Remember leading this 20+ years ago. Was in July & humid so it added a bit of difficulty. A long pitch to a pine tree if I remember correctly.

This was sort of mentioned elsewhere, but I wasn’t satisfied with the answer- when one bolt is higher than the other it is done purely to make sure the wear is uneven, and the hangers or chains wear out at different enough times that there is always at least one bolt available for belay/rappel, or to use as an anchor while you replace the other bolt.

Where’d my man go? It’s been so long😂

I just got to go to haycock for the first time yesterday.. I only stayed in hangar 18 and still the climbing there was amazing.. definitely going back more often.

if you keep climbing on one rope without resetting at an anchor, thats one pitch not multipitch correct? or did you just not show it in video? i was wondering if the word was misunderstood, as you also complain about an unequal anchor.....this is something you can have gear to build an anchor that is more equalized lol....althought truly it probably doesnt, as noone is going to perfectly equalize something by hand and not machine....meaning one side is always going to take the weight a fraction of time before the other side..

I love how the climber took his time trying to find the right cam for that crack. No rush for safety

Cool video. It's nice that there wasn't any runout on that route. I'm thinking one could utilize a stickclip to clip a quickdraw with aid ladder onto the next bolt if it's runout.

Hi, how tall are you? Just trying to figure out whether some of those reaches are possible for me.

One of the best in the Gorge at its rating. One of my favorites!

Awesome!

this was the most insane pitch ive done to date.. that belay station was nuts... i backed up all the tat with 2 x .75 and a sling around a knob up right. you can get a bomber number 4 just above the blue tat in the video and really makes for a great redirect.. gave me the confidence to pull the roof. I thought it was excellent and a line to remember

This is awesome, nice work!! Any chance you have the full footage somewhere? I'll be in the red this fall and want to get on this!

video was better than most, thank you

Hey, I read about your fall on this route in the description. I too got my ego bruised on this gnarly line. I onsighted 11b in the RRG last year, but every time I go to the New River Gorge my ego gets bruised hard on lower grades. It was fun to watch this video and compare your placements to mine. I wish you recorded the fall on that size #10, would have been cool to review!

@35 seconds... Why isn't your 2nd belaying? Not hard rock yet but still exposure.

That purple c4 from around 3:00 is still there!

could use a set of quick links at station

willing to share your camera settings? I've been shooting in 1080p 30fps, ultra wide camera angle with DJI's RockSteady (image stabilization) on.

Hard as nails. Hope you keep doing videos bud.

Goddamn, this is so scary

Generally, I don’t like watching helmet, cam videos, but I found this one very interesting. Great gear placements my friend. Back in 1994 I climbed with the legend Jim Bridwell for three days, what an absolute honor. For people who don’t know I tell them it’s equivalent of playing basketball with Michael Jordan. Thanks for the video.

He is spiderman

Solid push!

Thank you for acknowledging that the next move is a real doozy unless you're tall haha.. for me it was a proper huck at 5'6"

I want to see Ape Call

What's with the gloves?

Nice work man

The 'have fun, be safe' got me something different

Solo to the anchor. Repeat. 🙀😂

Hey man, how tall are you? Wondering if that pod beta might work for me!

Between the baby and the parties without walkies the audio is unbearable the climbing is as excellent as always though.

why would you climb so far above the belay before placing pro? Ensuring a potentially disastrous factor 1 fall onto the belay...

Looking at this climb out my window as I watch this 😂

its a little hard to tell but is the wall slightly positive? or is it like exactly 90 degrees? can anyone confrim or deny? i find this important for me in these videos cause i can better feel into certain situations :)

1997-2001 it took me 4 different partner attempts to get to the top of PoD. And I lived in SF at the time so it was a bit of a slog to get there to start the slog in before the slog up. I remember the exhaustion that last attempt on this final pitch. I had gone to the first bolt by headlamp in a previous attempt, but the rest was all shiny new for the last go. Damn that was a lifetime ago. Good good times chasing thin limestone and 13b. . I have to say, though, that i am happy to have moved on from the intensity of climbing to what I call Be A Great Ancestor pursuits. Climbing got to be too narcissistic.

I am cackling at how absurdly hollow it all sounds 😆 I sure hope it's partially a trick of the recording!

Hate to be critical of good video of a classic route but your technical skills are suspect. Be careful bro and climb with someone who has some solid training (and learn something). You waited way to long to place your first piece off the ledge. You put your partner in a shite situation if you take an unexpected whipper. Always place a key first piece to reduce the vectors dude! ...pure physics. Clipping 50 year old petons when a perfect mechanical is right next to it? Sketchy shit...

impressive...makes me ill tho

All mountains and hills are giant petrified tree stumps as you can clearly see the tree bark

All.mountains and hills are giant tree stumps as you can clearly see the tree bark

Awesome send! How would you think EoM feels for a 12 climber? the holds don't look terrible.

This is a great route I led this in 1981 with my then GF as my belayer. I used only passive pro the entire route, and wearing RR Verappes. No "sticky rubber."

This climb was conceived by Huntley Ingalls and led by Layton Kor. I could have participated in the first ascent but my school schedule didn't fit with their timeline. Never did this route, but no longer possible for me due to health issues. I'm still doing gym climbing and occasional trad routes at City of Rocks and in the Dolomites; limiting myself to ~5.6-5.7 these days, Watching this ascent made me think about how much easier it is with cams and chocks; when put up, they were still climbing with piton protection--and lotsa balls!

Looks like a face in the cliff

Nice wouldn't be able to do it without aid

Thanks for these videos. Fond memories of living in Squamish in the 1990s and hitting these routes every summer. You do sound absolutely miserable on every climb though.

In my head that looked like a hex placement. But I haven't climbed it, so can't really tell.. Although, that was a spooky pullout. I guess a deeper placement forces the angle to become lower moving it below the 30 degree threshold

Would really appreciate a seperate cut of this without the music. I think the raw sounds are always much more entertaining and less distracting personally.