this was the most insane pitch ive done to date.. that belay station was nuts... i backed up all the tat with 2 x .75 and a sling around a knob up right. you can get a bomber number 4 just above the blue tat in the video and really makes for a great redirect.. gave me the confidence to pull the roof. I thought it was excellent and a line to remember
@tkontovich23 күн бұрын
This is awesome, nice work!! Any chance you have the full footage somewhere? I'll be in the red this fall and want to get on this!
@bobb529225 күн бұрын
video was better than most, thank you
@NickpetikasАй бұрын
Hey, I read about your fall on this route in the description. I too got my ego bruised on this gnarly line. I onsighted 11b in the RRG last year, but every time I go to the New River Gorge my ego gets bruised hard on lower grades. It was fun to watch this video and compare your placements to mine. I wish you recorded the fall on that size #10, would have been cool to review!
@steverino333Ай бұрын
@35 seconds... Why isn't your 2nd belaying? Not hard rock yet but still exposure.
@somanayrАй бұрын
That purple c4 from around 3:00 is still there!
@flynryan3053Ай бұрын
could use a set of quick links at station
@NickpetikasАй бұрын
willing to share your camera settings? I've been shooting in 1080p 30fps, ultra wide camera angle with DJI's RockSteady (image stabilization) on.
@lurekayaklrf2 ай бұрын
Hard as nails. Hope you keep doing videos bud.
@Abrakadabra-e9k2 ай бұрын
Goddamn, this is so scary
@Bahrain99minute2 ай бұрын
wtf!🤯 bro, i just watch. my legs are shaking when your camera is facing down
@johnkennedy6192 ай бұрын
Generally, I don’t like watching helmet, cam videos, but I found this one very interesting. Great gear placements my friend. Back in 1994 I climbed with the legend Jim Bridwell for three days, what an absolute honor. For people who don’t know I tell them it’s equivalent of playing basketball with Michael Jordan. Thanks for the video.
@Gj_club2 ай бұрын
He is spiderman
@peteontherock2 ай бұрын
Solid push!
@mes62762 ай бұрын
Thank you for acknowledging that the next move is a real doozy unless you're tall haha.. for me it was a proper huck at 5'6"
@T3PinR2 ай бұрын
I want to see Ape Call
@juanl.burlew53703 ай бұрын
What's with the gloves?
@brucenowmen69553 ай бұрын
Nice work man
@jamesc49493 ай бұрын
The 'have fun, be safe' got me something different
@KarlLew4 ай бұрын
Solo to the anchor. Repeat. 🙀😂
@ADD_ition4 ай бұрын
Hey man, how tall are you? Wondering if that pod beta might work for me!
@Pants134 ай бұрын
Between the baby and the parties without walkies the audio is unbearable the climbing is as excellent as always though.
@stephencoughlan82464 ай бұрын
why would you climb so far above the belay before placing pro? Ensuring a potentially disastrous factor 1 fall onto the belay...
@maxpilling77964 ай бұрын
Looking at this climb out my window as I watch this 😂
@lovis_hertel4 ай бұрын
its a little hard to tell but is the wall slightly positive? or is it like exactly 90 degrees? can anyone confrim or deny? i find this important for me in these videos cause i can better feel into certain situations :)
@az555444 ай бұрын
1997-2001 it took me 4 different partner attempts to get to the top of PoD. And I lived in SF at the time so it was a bit of a slog to get there to start the slog in before the slog up. I remember the exhaustion that last attempt on this final pitch. I had gone to the first bolt by headlamp in a previous attempt, but the rest was all shiny new for the last go. Damn that was a lifetime ago. Good good times chasing thin limestone and 13b. . I have to say, though, that i am happy to have moved on from the intensity of climbing to what I call Be A Great Ancestor pursuits. Climbing got to be too narcissistic.
@SaoirseStuff4 ай бұрын
I am cackling at how absurdly hollow it all sounds 😆 I sure hope it's partially a trick of the recording!
@cluneclone4 ай бұрын
Hate to be critical of good video of a classic route but your technical skills are suspect. Be careful bro and climb with someone who has some solid training (and learn something). You waited way to long to place your first piece off the ledge. You put your partner in a shite situation if you take an unexpected whipper. Always place a key first piece to reduce the vectors dude! ...pure physics. Clipping 50 year old petons when a perfect mechanical is right next to it? Sketchy shit...
@beachbummer34344 ай бұрын
impressive...makes me ill tho
@josetejada3205 ай бұрын
All mountains and hills are giant petrified tree stumps as you can clearly see the tree bark
@josetejada3205 ай бұрын
All.mountains and hills are giant tree stumps as you can clearly see the tree bark
@V10Jon5 ай бұрын
Awesome send! How would you think EoM feels for a 12 climber? the holds don't look terrible.
@rodgerraubach27535 ай бұрын
This is a great route I led this in 1981 with my then GF as my belayer. I used only passive pro the entire route, and wearing RR Verappes. No "sticky rubber."
@rodgerraubach27535 ай бұрын
This climb was conceived by Huntley Ingalls and led by Layton Kor. I could have participated in the first ascent but my school schedule didn't fit with their timeline. Never did this route, but no longer possible for me due to health issues. I'm still doing gym climbing and occasional trad routes at City of Rocks and in the Dolomites; limiting myself to ~5.6-5.7 these days, Watching this ascent made me think about how much easier it is with cams and chocks; when put up, they were still climbing with piton protection--and lotsa balls!
@richardsmith99185 ай бұрын
Looks like a face in the cliff
@richardsmith99185 ай бұрын
Nice wouldn't be able to do it without aid
@getit_dunn5 ай бұрын
Thanks for these videos. Fond memories of living in Squamish in the 1990s and hitting these routes every summer. You do sound absolutely miserable on every climb though.
@timonix25 ай бұрын
In my head that looked like a hex placement. But I haven't climbed it, so can't really tell.. Although, that was a spooky pullout. I guess a deeper placement forces the angle to become lower moving it below the 30 degree threshold
@cricketicket5 ай бұрын
Would really appreciate a seperate cut of this without the music. I think the raw sounds are always much more entertaining and less distracting personally.
@MatthewWright-y9t5 ай бұрын
That rock looks super nice… good job
@bonefishboards6 ай бұрын
That's a heck of a tape job considering I don't think you threw a single hand jam in 800 ft of climbing.
@cbrass66 ай бұрын
What time of day did you finally start this first pitch?
@jamesmazzaferro15496 ай бұрын
I enjoyed the commentary and anchor building!
@kevdawg946 ай бұрын
I thought the same thing about this pitch and did it the same way you did. I believe the actual route starts from the ledge around the corner to the right and is much easier and keeps you out of the corner with thin holds.
@caodezorba6 ай бұрын
What camera are you using?
@jumeau16 ай бұрын
well, you're cleaning anchor, not building one. gates are facing each other (not a big deal in this scenario but still, considering you bothered to mention it), and metal is still on metal whether the biners are in the rap rings or the hangers......they're all metal (which is also fine but you bothered to say "metal on metal is usually bad" right after putting metal on metal and saying not to).
@thefoundfountain18557 ай бұрын
So much better since they re-bolted it!
@LongBoy.07 ай бұрын
hardest 12b move? have the guide authors never climbed Lambda at the meadow?
@ximkai87947 ай бұрын
Oh my god i could never do this. Im freaking out while safe in my bed. And theres NO BREAKS and no bathrooms on the side of a cliff face. Brave.