Thank you! 😃

About 2 hours if I remember.

No

Sorry but it's been over 2 years since I did the job and I no longer have the car. I also used Micro 3 fuses which use the center tap as the common hot tab so you seem to be using different arrangemenets. That said, a simple test with a 12v tester into the socket connector should quickly show which one is hot. Good luck.

Did you ever figure it out? I am looking to install one on my 45e. Thanks

Yes I reported the steering wheel would not extend and retract and they were going to replace the steering column (until I found a fix on KZbin basically giving the column a good bash to 'unstick it'). No comments from the dealer about the dash cam. Just as well as I would have had a real problem accepting any argument that the dashcam install was in any way connected to a defective steering column.

If you are careful and use an appropriately wide prise tool then you should be ok. I didn't break anything when I did the job. Have faith!

@@daveharwood7894 I caved and am having someone else install for me. Thank you for the video though.

Glad it was of help and thanks for your comment.

Yes it the panels do just pop off. I used a wide bladed pry tool (and a deal of care)!. If you look closely at the video you will see where the plastic pop rivets are located. Have faith.

I'm glad you found it helpful.

The permanent live facilitates recording when the vehicle is parked.

@@daveharwood7894 thank you for the info

Peter. The rear panel that houses the speaker all pops off as one. You can see from the video where some of the plastic 'rivets' locate in the metal supporting structure so you need to use a wide bladed trim removal tool ideally or something similar to gently ease the panel off. Have faith - you won't damage anything if you are careful (maybe place some rags under the tool to prevent scratching etc.) With regards to enlarging the hole that I used - I only needed to open it up a very small amount to take the rear camera plug and I used a rotary file in my power drill to do this although a large drill bit would do the job. As I stated in the video - this hole serves no purpose on my car as the plastic retaining 'rivet' engages in the lower hole which I didn't touch. I gave the bare metal a coat of grease but I'm not expecting it to rust. I note that someone else has said they peeled back the roof lining to run this cable thus avoiding the need to make any minor alteration to the hole but I must emphasise that I only needed to enlarge it very marginally so I did not see this as an issue. I don't know how the roof lining is secured but if it is stuck on with adhesive rather mechanical fixings then I would still prefer my solution. Hope this helps.

I've just gone onto the original BMW support group site where I posted this video and extracted the post that I referred to above about the head lining option which you may find useful: 'Another option for the running the rear cable for those who don't feel comfortable making the hole larger or don't want to pop off the d-pillar panel is to go through the headliner. Peel down the headliner and you will see a round black rubber cap (similar to the one on the left side of the hatch if you pause the video at 8:30). Remove the round rubber cap, poke a hole through it and feed the cable through, then pop the cap back into place. Also comes out the same place. If you have some sealant, you can seal the cap back up after all the cables have been run and you don't need to make any more adjustments.'

What year and model are you referring to? As I understand it some later models have 48volt circuits rather than 12 volts. You will need to refer to your specific fuse card and technical information to be sure that you are connecting to your car specific circuits rather than just assuming the fuses I have chosen apply to your vehicle.

James, It's some time since I did this but as far as I recall the Viofo Voltage Sensor lead is Yellow and needs to be connected to a permanent live so that parked recordings can continue until the battery voltage drops to the pre-determined voltage as set by the user. I think you may be confused because I crimped my fuse taps to the Viofo wires and both my taps used red wires. The perm live circuit I used was 11-12 and the ignition controlled circuit was 15-16. Hope this helps.

@@daveharwood7894 THANKS FOR THIS INFO I WILL TRY THIS

@@myway2624 You have to put the power connector into the GPS (USB-C). It will power the cam also then.

@@vardagsteknik6576 Thanks for your comment… I have done this and still no GPS. I’ve also tried a replacement GPS mount (in case the other one is faulty) but still no GPS inside the car. They both work outside the car but not anywhere on the windscreen.

@@myway2624 i think you should get it sorter on warranty then.

Sorry, I don't know exactly but any securing point that anchors to the bodywork should do. Use a continuity test between 2 of your possible candidates and if you get a positive result then the grounding is fine.. Hope this helps.

As I understand it the recordings are only short duration pre and post recording being triggered either automatically or manually. There is no facility to record in parking mode and in my case there is a one time price of nearly £140 or over £10 per month. If you change your vehicle then a DashCam can be removed and transferred whereas the Drive Recorder investment is gone with nothing to show for it (unless you shift to another BMW and they let you transfer the balance of your subscription.

I do have the BMW Drive Recorder. It only records in a accident situation (I hope). I ran over a ladder on the freeway, it did not record anything. I will be installing a BlackVue recorder and this video sure will help.

@@geohar1996 to manually record an event, you need to push camera view button on the Center console.

@@HeadingForTomorrow re 750x.. I think I am going to just try plugging it in the cigarette lighter port for now.

@@geohar1996 As there are no smokers in my X5 (ever!) I think that's a good idea for the moment. Indeed the car is not used for long periods so a camera that is always on may result in battery problems.

Sorry it took so long to reply - I didn't get any notification of your comment. Having reviewed my video the only appearance of yellow wires were the one that is crimped to the red Fuse Tap lead and connected to the appropriate fuse-way in the fuse box. The other is from my circuit tester which clearly has no part to play in the installation. Hopefully by now you will have successfully sorted this out and installed the dashcam.

Tony. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I was debating about starting the video with a long(ish) dialogue because it is not very engaging but I thought it was sensible to put the stages into context before getting into the video.

Thanks John. I learnt a lot (about the car and making a youtube video).