Thank you

I needed both pullers but they worked well. Check you can remove the hub nut as that can be a show stopper, and invest in a BMW part when putting back .Depending on which side you do the exhaust hanger has to be unhooked.

@@billebrill8730 wow I hadn’t factored in removing the nut, i looked at it this evening and sprayed it with wd40 in preparation, I have a brand new nut and reluctor ring for it, I’ll grab those extra tools tmoro and it should be ok then

The lock is electric?

@@billebrill8730 the windows are automatic

Use this search on eBay '7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**'

First time anyone said that!

Thank you

Agreed, if you watched my other video I showed how to do that. I used it as a temporary fix but did not need to replace the sensor.

Apart from not being able to access the ring, a new ring cannot be fitted with the wheel bearing and wheel mounting in the way. Removing those is a far bigger job than taking out the half shaft which is relatively easy.

My sensor had been marked by the expanding reluctor ring but still worked fine so I did not replace it. The BMW part number for my 2009 318d sensor is 34526762466. It operates as a single channel sensor with current output of 7ma and 14ma for measuring rotational speed. See my other video.

I can see about five on eBay UK using using this search "7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**"

ahh.. seems like "CV Axle Shaft Puller / Wheel Bearing Hub Installer Kit - Bavarian Autosport" was used.

Thank you. I bought on eBay - "7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**" a few places do them. The place I bought it from are out of stock I see others doing it.

Hi there... Is there any place in Dublin where I can get this puller.. I was replacing my E90's reluctor ring using a sledge hammer and I damaged the spline of the shaft

Thanks

@@billebrill8730 Can I disable the deadlock lever and use the door till I get the correct lock. Would it get through an MOT

@@thomaslynas721 as long as the door opens and closes it should pass the MOT

They must use a different protocol.

@@billebrill8730 Yeah, it's probably this one, kzbin.info/www/bejne/b6Ozm39vhap-aMk although I was not able to see the square wave. Maybe. I would have to do it installed on the wheel. Cheers.

@@dzidmail That was how I started unfortunately it is uses a current sensor arrangement. It is not a voltage protocol, it is a current protocol, switching current levels and difficult to detect with a scope.

@@billebrill8730 Actually yeah. This is must be the same protocol. Although, with the 200ohm resistor in series the voltage drop changes (1.4V) should be visible on the scope. I think, either my new sensor are bad too or I need different metal to test them on.

Let me report my memories - maybe will be useful to someone. Your sensor is showing 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close. My failed rear sensor one was showing 7mA on far and close proximity. Replacement rear sensor was behaving like yours 14mA on far proximity. Now, week later front sensor started reporting error. Yeah, suspicious. It was reading 7mA on far and close proximity. Bought the replacement and was showing correctly 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close, they sent wrong size (thick rear kind). Then I ordered two Chinese front sensors from different manufacturers. I thought I will stock up on them if another one fails. Both were showing 7mA on far proximity, so they are probably failed as well. They costed $8 and $10 and they are probably some manufacturing rejects. I am going to buy another one and maybe will report further.

Sounds like a wiring issue!

@@billebrill8730 I also think that electricity is a problem

Glad it helped. B.

I agree. Well done. It is also possible to fabricate a driver to access it from the side. Coincidentally my daughter traded the Polo two days ago - we got 15 years out of it across two daughters. It was a 2005 car!

@@billebrill8730 Nice, probably the last generation of cars you can really work on and fix things like this cheaply.

No, Dublin.

​@@billebrill8730absolutely tortured with trying to get someone to sort this exact problem for me.

No kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHPPhXuBZ56rbsU

I bought puller here - www.ebay.ie/itm/282105048992?hash=item41aec56fa0:g:wCoAAMXQL99Sczue&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4K1pQqN8dV8hoMSDHC0%2B5%2BF%2Fkr5wpMJe9VnmSg8BodrQN7aZ6hJjjO%2B8Z0diyFRxXIGe3SrRnDdyRGElAnkSbvTWFc7lWYsSjAXM5IpL4S1UVokczoLFPoyX5qrJI6MqUx58mRXg9vX620GVaV54CWYEW45l7jKbx%2FbdZCm7BBDO1X7PuSiCvxxDHDOPnk0VRZVXZVh3tbnzgGnjwO98IYQF%2Bvh16fXuDnXD0ZlE2IO9wTGG7jvMrgAzisap2k2MrsE%2B%2BHdfXaXiXr6WxGqkG2IPmz710ZpEpWUjixEx8sPM%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR86F_-PPYQ

This is one side. Both sides have them. It is how they tell if one wheel is slipping. I had the other side done by a dealer and it cost me €1,200 because they replaced the full half shaft. That is why I did the second one myself.

Thanks, nice to get the feedback.

Appreciate the comment. Getting the door card off was a bummer. However easy to put back once open!

I suppose about three hours if all goes well. I was in no hurry as I was videoing it. I had it done by lunchtime. I did rehearse some parts. I loosened the hub nut and replaced it a couple of days before as that would have been a showstopper and checked all spanner sizes and access.

@@billebrill8730 ah okay thanks, thats awesome and smart to go over it and do all that before hand to make the job easier lol. I still havent bought proper tools to work on these cars yet, dropped it off my at mechanic he had it done around that time aswell, $160 total lol

The first one, at a dealer, cost me about $1,300 so buying the tools was a no brainier for the second one!

Yes, rust grows well here. I regret not putting a rust proof coating before putting it back. Good luck when you get around to it.

@@billebrill8730 Yes thanks, try a little spray with some lithium grease