Glad to be of assistance.

You're welcome glad it helped.

It appears you’re not getting any voltage out of relay plug 87. Referencing the under-hood blower motor relay, remove the relay from the socket and turn the ignition key to the accessory position. With a multimeter, measure the voltage at socket position 86, which should read 12 V. Then, measure the voltage at position 30, which should also read 12v. Turn the key off and measure socket position 85 with an ohmmeter to any good ground; it should read nearly zero ohms. The relay plugs 85 and 86 are the ends of the relay coil. Relay plug 30 is the 12v input to the switch contact, and plug 87 supplies 12v to the blower motor once the switch contact closes.

@eetech_fix2393 Thank you. Sounds like my next step.

You must specify the point in the video timeline where you refer to these two wires. Right-click that point on the timeline, select ”Copy video URL,” and paste that link into your reply.

@@eetech_fix2393 my fan came unplugged, I was using jumpers and electrical tape and my lady plugged it back in. She plugged them in backwards and it started to smoke from the transistor. I got a new fan installed Tomorrow, I’m going to check my fuses. I was just wondering if you might’ve came across this before

@@eetech_fix2393 my fan I plug it in backwards and the transistor started to smoke I got a new fan plugged it in correctly did not work. Should I replace the transistor next or did I just fuck the whole system? By plugging in the fan backwards.

@@Toldyousonoob If you have smoke from the Transistor at minimum, run the Transistor Test drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view to verify its condition. Also, check your fuses, especially the 40A Blower Motor fuse under the hood. If you disconnected quickly, the transistor may have survived. The fuses are there and will protect you from blowing the whole system.

@@eetech_fix2393 when I get off I will try it

Check out the following Links: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIm8aoOlpLKlo9Usi=1TXyetjzw1115ccd github.com/DeanIsMe/SevSeg github.com/bridystone/SevSegShift www.adafruit.com/product/878

You're welcome. I'm glad the information assisted you and your efforts.

Short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the Transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing

thank you this is Very informative So dont use a metal conductive thermal cutoff. use a Ceramic one . im about to do this instead of buying a 110$ one from autozone.

Correct, short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing

Good question! Understanding Pressure Sensors: Evolution, Operation, and Applications in the World of Industry and Enterprise. You can do much more than turn things on and off. These are the basics, the starting point for understanding computer-based technology. Check out the following link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJrPh5Scgt6NZ68si=wWTr4KFjWcPWMrCq

You could easily accomplish that; the sensor is just a starting point.

I'm glad the videos were helpful. Concerning your question, I need help understanding; please clarify. Are you referring to the electrical connections or the airline fittings? Please reference a time from the timeline on the video. The green one and the blue one, please clarify.

@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you very much for answering so quickly, I thought it would take you a while to answer, I really appreciate your time in answering the questions, about the elements that I have doubts since minute 8:07 is in the line of the banana connector Va (red cable to the Vin+ of the INA230 that starts on line 55 of the breadboard towards line 15 of the positive, there is a green element and on line 17 there is a blue element, that's what they are, I hope I haven't confused my question any further, I hope you don't take my lack of knowledge the wrong way. to be able to express myself.

Thanks for the clarification; I'm ensuring we're on the same track and looking at the same things. The blue component (0.1uf ceramic capacitor) decouples (filters) electrical noise from the power supply. Excessive noise from the power supply is shunted through the capacitor to the ground, reducing its effect on the INA230. I installed the capacitor initially but found it unnecessary. The green component is the 62.5mA fuse to protect wiring and sensors. github.com/EETechFix/4-20mA_Sensor_Interface_Arduino/blob/main/4-20mA%20Project%20full%20schematic.pdf

These OLEDs work SPI or I2C, and the code is compatible with Arduino boards, including the UNO. SPI is generally faster than I2C but uses more pins. If speed is usually no factor, go with the easier wiring of I2C. Very easy to get up and running because it has built-in level shifting works on 5v or 3.3v systems. The Adafruit links below cover Monochrome OLED boards. learn.adafruit.com/monochrome-oled-breakouts cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/monochrome-oled-breakouts.pdf

If your sensor has a range of -50 to +50 mbar, that equates to a range of -37,503.1 to +37,503.1 microns of mercury (uHg). That’s given 1mbar = 750.062uHg. On an Arduino 5v board set range for 0.5v (-37,503.1 uHg) to 4.5v (+37,503.1 uHg). The equation is: uHg = (18,751.55) x (voltage) - 46,878.875. Voltage (12-bit adc) = (adc_Val x Vref)/4,096.0 Example: If the adc_Val returned 3550 then (3,550x5)/4,096 = 4.33v. Therefore: uHg = (18,751.55) x (voltage) - 46,878.875 or (18,751.55) x (4.33) - 46,878.875 = 34,315.336uHg Longhand calculation: drive.google.com/file/d/1vCnTWACHxORRBO0FAKYRQIQoE1kb4tqB/view?usp=sharing The company below has I2C modules that may be an option to handle your project: store.ncd.io/product/ams5915-0050-d-b-amplified-low-pressure-sensor-50-to-50-mbar-0-725-to-0-725-psi-i2c-mini-module/ store.ncd.io/product/ams5915-0100-d-b-amplified-low-pressure-sensor-100-to-100-mbar-1-450-to-1-450-psi-i2c-mini-module/ store.ncd.io/product/i2c-shield-for-arduino-nano/

Check the I2C address for your OLED 0x3C or 0x3D; normally works for the SSD1306 OLED. I2C oled default address 0x78 (0x3C in 7 -bit) and 0x7A (0x3D in 7 -bit). “ display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3c); // may need to change this to 0x3D”

Thank you ! that did the trick@@eetech_fix2393

They do make do make PWM pressure sensors; however, this is not one. If you’re referring to PWM Fuel Systems; they utilize feedback from a standard pressure sensor; thereafter, the PWM controller module outputs the correct PWM signal that controls the speed of the fuel pump, jet/transfer pumps, and related engine demands. The module is the source of the PWM. The sensors in this video are linear DC Analog voltage output. There may be some related signal noise from power supplies or other nearby sources (best handled with a .1uF capacitor); however, it's not PWM.

Controlling and monitoring multiple locations is easily done using WiFi; however, each location requires a WiFi connection. Another option is LaRa; it doesn't require WiFi. LaRa uses long-range radio singles to network location. LaRa range requires its location to be within a four-mile range city or a ten-mile range rural. The following links give a good explanation of each option. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3emnoeQitSNZ68si=4u4W4PX4zPWpK4Nk kzbin.info/aero/PLT6rF_I5kknObk6lnQMpk5NIUB_vEHcNW kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4Kakn9-eLmYm6csi=Zg9AkzXK6H_7BAMA

​@@eetech_fix2393You mean LoRa.

Yes... cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-ina219-current-sensor-breakout.pdf

Using the nominal values .5V = 0 bar and 4.5V = 300 bar the equation: barVal = (voltage * 75.0) - 37.5 You may need to update variable names, psi or psiVal. See code line 55 for Every or code line 95 for MKR.

I use both. Technically, current flows from negative to positive in conductors. It doesn’t matter which convention you use if you’re consistent. Since electrons and protons have an equal but opposite charge, an electron flowing in one direction is equal to a proton flowing in the opposite direction. You can still use conventional current flow even though it’s not technically correct and come up with the right answer. Most formulas used in electronics, such as Ohm’s Law, pretend that current flows from positive to negative. And if you think about it, most schematics depict a current flow from the positive side of a battery through conductors and loads to the ground, the negative side of the battery. In the end, it doesn’t matter. I use both, whichever makes the circuit analysis easier. Again, remember that most formulas and books represent conventional current flow. For most bench-type troubleshooting, the direction of current flows is unimportant; the amount of current flows is.

The equation you’ve chosen is correct; however, the other is also correct. It’s a play on the math and how the variables are arranged. At the beginning of the video, I measured voltage (dependent variable “Y”) concerning a known pressure (independent variable “X"). The Arduino gives a voltage reading, so the equation was rearranged to make voltage the independent and dependent variable pressure. Both equations yield the same answer from a different starting point. Secondly, the Uno R4 reference voltage should be 5 V; however, if powered from your computer’s USB, It could be as low as 4.8V. psiVal = (37.5 * voltage) - 18.75 or psiVal = (voltage - 0.5) / 0.0266666

Thanks for your time once again@@eetech_fix2393

As advertised, the INA260’s 16-bit ADC allows for measurements over the 15A current range with a resolution of 1.5 mA. Try commenting out the “ //display.display(); .“ on line# 111 (IOT-code) or line# 94 (Non-IOT code) versions to correct that OLED flicker. Changing sensor position is also a change in the sensing environment, which requires some time to stabilize in the new environment. This code incorporates a low pass filter which accumulates readings over a 30 to 40-second time span to give you a smooth reading. The software filter requires another 30 to 40 seconds of readings to stabilize after you change the sensor position. You can reduce that time by reducing the filter's alpha, which will also reduce some smoothing, giving you a faster response. Change line#33 IOT or line#31 Non_IOT to: “ const float alpha 0.70; ” You can also try 0.40, No smoothing 0.0

Flickering is gone! And the lack is gone! Thanks! Any idea how to improve the measuring? Maybe measuring voltage with a 500ohm resistor? Can be done with the ina260?

You can try a 150-ohm resistor (3.3V board) or 225-ohm resistor (5V board) in series with your 4-20mA current loop and measure directly across the resistor using the ADC of your microcontroller. Those resistance values will give you an over-current and under-current measurement range. Be cautious of ground loops. Isolated Arduino ground, or ensure the resistor is on the lower end and measure from one end of the resistor to the ground.

Greetings to you in Ecuador. Absolutely, the INA226, INA219, and INA169 are good options.

this code is working with Arduino uno ? which oled you are using ?

The nominal values for these sensors are 0.5 - 4.5v. Without further testing, you can use those values as your initial starting point, and they should yield good results. In the case of the video, I took measured readings at the top end and came up with a 4.6, which is within 2.2% of the nominal. The capacitor for noise reduction may be better served decoupling power going into the sensor; therefore, the capacitor should be connected to the red power wire, then to the ground. The sensor connection to the breadboard was made using breakaway header strips and a standard three-pin female servo connector. The header strips can be found on Adafruit product ID 400. The servo connectors can be assembled from any good Servo Connector Kit. How to crimping DuPont Connectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d17IqI2Dn7Z5nNE

@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you for your prompt response. Can I use the same conde for the 5KPSI sensor? if so, what should I add to the circuit? If I use the same code and use the 4.6, I got for PSI = 1219.512 (Volts) -609.756. Is this correct?

@@itzelvanessaalcantar2664 Correct, replace line #55 in the Every core with your numbers : psiVal = (1219.512 * voltage) - 609.756; The only change is pressure scaling.

Which model vehicle? May still have an issue with your transistor module. The control modules are low-percentage failure items; however, still a possibility.

@@eetech_fix2393 2001 sedan with a 1.6L D series engine. I figured I had burned the transistor, which was true, since after replacing it it was working normally. However after about a minute, it was once again stuck on full. My opinion is, something is causing more current to pass through the circuit, burning the transistor, unless the proper fuse is there to sacrifice itself. This answer is rather well timed since I will be getting my hands on the proper fuse and a new transistor tomorrow :) Anyways, since I got some spares as well I have a few chances to test what is wrong. The filters where a bit dirty but definitely not clogged. If you have any suggestions on where to look you'd be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

During the replacement of parts, sometimes there is an issue in the disassembly and reassembly process. With the replacement of the thermal fuse, always ensure none of the leads nor any metal parts connected to the leads touch the heat sink. Only the non-metallic parts of the thermal fuse should ever come in contact with the heat sink. You must remember that the heat sink, due to its direct connection to the drain of the transistor, has a 12 V potential if it comes in contact with any of the leads of the thermal switch or any other conductive part of the module you have a short to ground and the possibility of the fan runs all the time. After you replace the fuse and transistor and get the module reassembled, run the following test to ensure everything is connected correctly and no other issues exist. TABLE 1 TABLE 1 BLOWER TRANSISTOR TEST drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view

Check out the GC9A01 LCD module. Several libraries are associated with that module that incorporates the code that will perform those functions for you. There’s also the OLED. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWPGY615oqiSjpI kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2Szd4KtmLBmY6s

@eetech_fix2393 thank you so much! Also keep making videos I just came across this one and I watched all your others and very good Information and explanation

@eetech_fix2393 how would I go about to possibly make the gauge to be controlled through phone bluetooth/wifi to change interfaces or change backgrounds with gifs

@@2point4turbo The Arduino IOT cloud is a very user-friendly interface and great for that type of project. Allowing control of your Arduino from your mobile device anywhere with an Internet connection. Reference link to get started: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3emnoeQitSNZ68

Leg compression machine measures in mmHg (millimeters of mercury). Most devices provide up to 350 mmHg (about 8psi). 100 psi is probably high. 10 to 15 psi gauge is reasonable. Check it out and verify it for your project.

Try using a LM317 : drive.google.com/file/d/1wA5XTcI107lk8oJLWGQiVKVJa0FjRRzz/view?usp=sharing

Use any 5V 30 psi sensor; just rescale for a 3.3 V system @ 30PSI as I did with the MKR 1010. Use the following equation on your 3.3V - 30 psi system: PSI = 11.278 * (output voltage) - 4.06. That will give you an approximately linear reading. After that, you can take exact readings at your sensor's high and low ends and recalculate for accuracy specific to your sensor. Replace the 100 y2 with 30 y2 in this example: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKbRppJsa6ySh7M

@@eetech_fix2393 thx i will try, the old sensor i had was out of spec sample i got from my old work, but the newer one do have a calibrated, not ratiometric voltage output and require proper voltage or will simply not output above 3.3v

A few links in the right direction. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3evkmuHar59qLM kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2WqkqCEZpWIq7M cloud.arduino.cc/how-it-works/

The code runs fine on the MKR 1010 's processors Arm Cortex 32-bit SAMD21. It should run on your ESP32.

The LM317, configured as a constant current source in the upper right-hand corner of the schematic, is a standalone circuit. It’s not connected to the Adafruit INA260 or Arduino Nano 33 IOT. I intended to show how the LM317 could be used to simulate a 4-20 mA current loop circuit. However, I cut that explanation from the presentation due to time constraints.