Geez man sharpen that knife 😂

Good job Loyd from 76 yr machinists

I love your journeyman tips. I'd never think of doing them but they make sense when explained. I'm less than an hour away from cutting my first chips ever. I'm sorry for the mistakes you've had but by admitting them in video makes me a little less fearful to dive in. Thanks.

i’m working on mine rn lol 😂

try using regular parallels instead of adjustable ones, no slipping issue then :)

The thing that is kinda odd is that the belt has teeth on it but the pulleys has no notches? Do you think they just were being cheap here since it adds a lot of complexity to the manufacturing? But I still dont see why they just dont use a normal belt then it would have more surface area to grip with? Also in regards to the way cover do you still have yours in place, and is it still as troublesome as you described it before? Also what do you think of Masso cnc's recent push for publicity in various languages using ai? They are using Karl Rohlin but with creepy ai videos of him talking, the channels names are: Masso cnc swedish, masso cnc german, masso cnc dutch, masso cnc spanish. From what I can tell they are in on it basically masso is from australia and sherline works with them sherline started in australia.

I came across your video today in Oct. of 2024 so I am a bit late to the party. I found this exact lathe outside of Montrose Colorado on Craig's list that was listed for several months so I finally gave the guy a call. He was set on his price but I needed a lathe for some gunsmithing projects I had for barrel work and this one came with a 3 & 4 jaw chucks, a lot of Mics, cutters and some steel. I paid $1,600. for all of it. I brought it home and stripped it down to pieces I could get down in my basement. After giving it a quick needed cleaning I put it back together. I could see it needed the 2 belts you talk about, a new belt on the motor and replaced the split nuts with brass ones, I bought some new cutters and was in business. It worked great for the barrels. I hadn't seen the exact model until today, so I am glad I found your Video. Thanks for the info on it and I plan on keeping this one especially after seeing the video.😃👍👍

Miss ya brother. Need a new video!!

Thanks for the video. I'm not sure how you got the block square? It looked to me like you worked off the original squareness which I think can be iffy. Hot rolled is better for welding but not machining, on something like my Sherline I use 12L14 or aluminum. I think the Sherlines' work well with aluminum, I have machined steel but mostly do that on my larger mill. I also use soft metals like brass or aluminum instead of steel welding rod to hold the work from the movable jaw of the vice. Steel welding rod can leave indentations on the soft jaw face or the metal being cut. To keep the adjustable parallel from changing tighten the screw on the side or better yet use rigid parallels.

What spacer do use to get the tool to center height when running upside down? I’ve not tried this on my Sherline lathe!

Luvin it!! Sherline kicks butt!!

Thanks

Adjustable parallels. They're more commonly used as a comparative inspection tool. Open one up inside a pocket and then you remove and measure with a micrometer to get your pocket size. You do not want to use them in the vice like traditional parallels. The other parallels are the ones you put under the workpiece.

Source: ChatGPT (AI) Grade A: This is the highest standard and refers to tools that have the finest accuracy specifications. Grade A instruments are often used in settings where extremely precise measurements are critical, such as in quality control and high-precision engineering. These tools generally have tighter tolerances and are calibrated to the highest standards. Grade B: These tools are still highly accurate but have slightly looser tolerances compared to grade A. They are suitable for general industrial use where the precision requirements are less stringent than those needed in high-precision engineering but still require reliable and accurate measurement.

I have had the bench version of that machine for 30+ years. The best improvement to my machine i ever made was switching from the old style lantern toolpost and rocker type toolholders to a QCTP. Get the AXA size, it is the best fit for your machine. My second big tip is NEVER EVER use a pressure type knurling tool on an Atlas. Those machines are not heavy enough to stand up to the punishment a pressure knurler will impose on the brass nut on the compound screw. If you want to put a lot of wear on the compound screw nut, a pressure knurler will do that in a hurry! It you do want to apply a knurled finish to projects you are working on, invest in a scissor type knurl. Congratulations on your purchase. Dont deceive yourself into thinking the Atlas is a heavy machine, it is not. It is a good hobbyist machine that you can do tons of good work on. That said, you would be well served to not push the machine beyond it's limitations. I love Atlas lathes, but there are multiple well known weaknesses in the brand, regardless the size or configuration. My point is an Atlas/Craftsman lathe cannot equal a South Bend, Logan, or heavier more industrial brands will though sized roughly the same, and in fact could share much of the same tooling. Watch Tubalcain's channel and so many others to learn so much more you may not know about your new lathe too. Again, congratulations on your new machine. I hope you get as much enjoyment from yours as i have mine. BTW: YOU CANNOT OVER OIL IT!

Thanks for sharing. It's been a while, do you like the lathe? Are the gears included with the threading accessory metal?

Hey Bro, Have you Anodized any Aluminum parts that you've machined? You had mentioned it a while back regarding that "Jack-n-Box" puzzle I machined on Sherline mill. 👉Anyway, I'm in the process of setting up a Aluminum Anodizing DIY Lab. I've done a bunch of research about it & purchased everything I need, but thought I'd ask If you have gone through that process & have any tips for me ...? I'd appreciate it☯️ Thanks, Lee

Considering purchasing one of these lathes. Amazing vid but do you by chance know what it means on the sight to "upgrade headstock bearings to C5"

Luv the Bolt&Nut Support combined with the Chuck💡💯

picked one up for free 2 years ago . the kid who owned it. i say kid in his 20s. iam in my 50s hahah .... crashed the head. messedup the gearbox. 2 of the elft side gears. unable to find them for fair price. besides that. a good cleaning and manti so on . he didnt take care of it. but she is comming around . have a 3 and 4 jaw with it. no plate for the 4 jaw tho. tool post grinder from dumore. milling post also. i cant complain for free ..

An inch # torque wrench would ensure consistency when tightening vise and fixtures

Great video!

Lyod, Hope all is well. I know for us fall with kids back to school is a crazy time. Hope to see another quality video when your ready. Paul

Bro I totally dig the old school background porno music!😮😂

I finally bought this same machine with the C package. Sherline has a 30% discount going on through November, so the timing was right. As you know, I am developing an enhanced backlash control system for my Sherline CNC mill. Just building the first prototype after family health issues and summer activity delays, machining parts on the mill. I’m able cut gears now on the mill, having fought my way through the 4th axis workarounds in my CAD/CAM software, and discovering in the process that 4th axis milling is a poor substitution for using a lathe when cutting diameters. FYI, the system l’m developing will work just as well on the lathe.

Whilst you are building a 3,5" Gauge, 1/16 scale Model, a lot of your techniques can be adapted to a On42 ( 3'6") in 1/48 scale...in Brass, Steel and Plastic. I am also following BlondiHacks on her KOZO locomotive as well. I am to old to attempt a Steam driven Loco ( much as I would like) but a QR 1/48 is just the ticket. I had a Sherline and an Emco many years ago, but moved onto larger Lathes for Gunsmithing Work. Now I am going back to Mini Lathes and Mills for Railroad Modelling Purposes in my Twighlight years.... Good work. DocAV Down Under.

Another great video. May I ask which hardened steel you are milling? Also, what are you seeing in terms of dimensional accuracy, machining hardened steel? Thanks.

Thanks for the video! Well made.

Thanks for the helpful content.

nice

Congrats. I have a Candian made Standard Modern 9X25 lathe. A wonderful and minty lathe.

You get a Rotary table yet? Lee Aka: ZenModeling

Nice demonstration of a fine tool. For best accuracy, I personally would use a toolmaker button. Indicate on a surface plate, then indicate in the lathe. Thanks for the video.

Back when I was working in a machine shop, the lead guy got his arm caught in a spindle. He didn't lose the arm but it took a good bit of flesh... Had a scare myself when I was taking a machine class...

I've been looking at mini-lathes and watchmakers lathes. How are you enjoying this lathe 2 years later?

This mill sucks i have it you want the one with a single axis column. This thing throws itself out of tram all the time. Pretty much a light work machine.

Did my old eyes spot a Mauser angle at the end oft the video? If so, best choice, so the force is with you. 😉👍

thanks for the info!

Super video!

I enjoy each and every video. Thank you!

Have you considered doing a cnc conversion? You don't need to use sherlines electronics and the mounts and cnc compatible leadscrews are fairly cheap, so long as you aren't going ball screw. As someone who started with one of the smaller mills and changed and upgraded part by part, i can tell you it's totally doable by buying parts off their exploded diagrams.

Congrats on that catch. One in a lifetime find. You will treat her well. Regards.

A better technique is to use a carbide tipped spring loaded punch. The recoil and shock will break up the tap into smaller pieces.

Unfortunately, these little shortcomings are part of the fun of having a micro lathe. Watchmakers lathes are the same, in a even smaller package where cross slides are very backwards, having the handwheel end up coming from the front to back to being reversed turning where you turn one to the right to advance the tool while turning the other anticlockwise! So it is a great tool to improve skills and creativity in making custom adjustments! For repeatability angles you can use masking tape. Once you’ve got the angle correct, stick a piece of tape and mark it matching to the pointer on the top of the cross slide. You also can fabricate a brass pointer that once attached to the back of it you can really make in between pointer or use the masking tape. Hope it ease your pain, new users.

the Z axis rail ( the only one with steel ) is to flexible , you can feel it when you use the mill as a drill . i think we need to put a big triangle at the back between the ram and the Z rail .

Nice surface finish! I enjoyed watching how you positioned the tool and ran in reverse. Great video!

Great finish on the side cut! Good music too.

The Ghost Town and Calico Railroad's famous D&RGW #340

What are the specs of the metal base you attached your lathe to? The engine turned finish is a nice touch.

I don't understand why you are using an adjustable parallel, and you should have a parallel under each side of your block two thin ones one by each jaw may make it more solid jmho