This is a follow up question. I have two batteries that I combined together with a battery combiner it works great, but it seems to me that the bike is not as fast as it was before I put the two batteries together with the combiner. The range is definitely much better. I can go 100 miles on the two batteries. Before I put on the combiner, I would be able to hit the 38mph just running on a shingle battery with no combiner. But I feel that I should be able to go faster than I was before on a single battery. Do you think the combiner is holding back amps/voltage? What are your thoughts and if you think I'm right, I should be able to connect the two batteries together with some XT 90s to get full power without the combiner providing the batteries are roughly about the same voltage at the time? Thanks once again for your help. Your videos are great and so helpful to the rest of us. Thank you, doctor.

vtc5d, or from your selection the molicell i guess. i would love it if murata would make a tabless 18650 to make t.ex makita's lxt platform great again. i usually use 20r or 25r because i often get them for free. vtc6 hold up in makita 1860b, so thats fine. i often see failed 30q with popped cid's even in 3p tool batteries, so would not recommend.

We have proof that a jump-started battery caught fire 6 hours after being disassembled from the electronic PCB, while simply sitting on a benchtop. We guide people to revived the cell using 100mA current, but even though the cell is rated at 280Ah, no capacity was recovered from 0V to 2V, as is the case with any lithium cell. Many people may not understand it. Reviving a cell is not for everyone, you must use a low current, such as 100mA and not more , till you get to 3V on li-ion cell.

is it possible to use another batterie? why restore this one of it is not a good design?

when i build my milwaukke m18 batteries i try to use the best cells and for 18650's i use molicel p30b and for 21700 i use either the samsung 50s or the molicel p50b

Worst to best Samsung 30Q - easy to find expensive Samsung 25R - easy to find cheep LG HG2 - not so easy to find expensive VTC5 - easy to find cheep VTC6 - easy to find expensive to much fake offer P28A - not so easy to find but usually good price VTC5A didn't show but this is best cell to use.

Dean Doherty repairs all types and manufactures of power tools both corded and cordless. He has a KZbin channel and is scathing in his comments about the build quality of Milwaukee cordless tools. Many times when they fail they not repairable or parts prices make the tool not worth repairing.

I have a Milwaukee hammer drill that drains batteries over rhe course of 2 to 4 months when left unused. It came in a kit with an impact driver. The drill is the only tool draining the batteries. It drained batteries down to the flashing one bar.

Cells down at 10mV makes me think CID has popped. That should only take out 1 cell, but could be a cascade failure where 1 cell failing puts all the current through the other and they both pop. There are some videos about resetting CIDs that you could try, but I think you need to pull it part first. Resetting a CID is risky, so do it somewhere safe with face protection.

Milwakee wants to use not rated cells for the bms they use that is well over the battery's performance and why they degrade so fast/ fail. Glad they dont go booboo haha. they just are being cheap and guess this also means they dont have to wait for this to die years instead a few...seems like planned or got the idea on the way

8:20 they have used different colours over the years. PCB is definitely genuine - I've never seen the counterfeits use the same chips. Should be BQ76925 for the small chip and either MSP430 G2744 (40pin) or R5F100BEA (32pin) for the bigger chip

5:03 plenty of M18 tools peak over 900W (~50A). Drills and grinders go well over 100A, but not sure how long they can sustain that. Their big blowers and vacuums may do 40-50A continuously.

4:44 There have been examples of M18 5Ah using EVE 25P cells rather than Samsung 25R. They have the same colour wrapping, so you'll need to disassemble or be lucky and have the label line up with an opening.

The only way batteries show they are fixed for Milwaukee is if they are balanced and it's put on the charger I'm sorry but you will have to be patient I balance all the cells and check capacity since I don't sell I charge dangerously low volt cells and some work but the reason c1 dies is the bms takes its charge largely from c1 it's a design flaw

1:22 I see what you mean by shunt, now. You are correct, they do use that busbar as a shunt. The voltage is measured between CT1- and Isense (although I think their labelling has changed)

I believe Ryobi has that as they kept backwards compatibility with their old NiCd/NiMH tools. Those tools had no protection as NiCd has no issues with being fully discharged. Therefore when they introduced Li-ion batteries, they needed cutoff mosfets in the batteries so that they could work with the existing tools. Ryobi does have a HP line of batteries and tools with extra contacts. My suspicion is that the extra contacts allow the tool to bypass the cutoff mosfet so that the tool can draw more power, but there is a cutoff signal like in other brand's batteries. I've never seen these batteries or tools, so this is just my speculation.

Good stuff. I'd always heard they had internal cutoff (and many of their tools only having 2 pins strongly suggests they have internal cutoff). But this is the first proof I've seen of it.

0:19 Can you take the yellow goop off and tell me the part number of the IC? From the top side it seems to have an i2c interface, so could be doing datalogging, which is very interesting. I've been meaning to desolder one of my packs, but if you can tell me the part number then I can get straight into probing it.

What I have seen does Ryobi one+ (18v) batterys have built in bms.

Thank you for this information. I use the Ryobi ecosystem. Is it safe to say Ryobi battery packs can be use with other systems?

I wonder if the DEWALT 18V to 20V Battery Adapter Kit has a BMS in the 20V 2.0AH batteries they include (DCB203 20v MAX XR). They do mention "Do not use with premium batteries (DCB200, DCB204, DCB204BT, DCB205) in 18V Compact drills DC970, DC759 (use DCB201, DCB203, DCB203BT)."

What do you mean by adapters? I've only seen the one that allows you to use m18 batteries for an m12 tool.

worked on couple of these and had a 30% success rate on repair, probably even more if people were ready to pay round 100e that we charge, for most users its too expensive. Mostly there would be a 2 or 3 segments that go below 1V.

How did you remove the lid with all the glue?

I have the same batteries I was given for free. For some reason people think its alright to use and leave batteries out in the rain. Both are rusty inside.

so where should we buy them from instead?

I use tape to isolate shorting close components when assembling/disassembling batteries

thats a wild failure and must be scary for the customer jesus ryobi where the testing at lol.

you make it look easy! lol

U connected the leads wrong. The biggest upgrade is the voltage sensing leads. One thick set( not provided) that pull the current and smaller set (provided) for taking voltage sensing only. So u get an accurate voltage reading at the battery. The old one did not account for that voltage drop so the wh calculation is incorrect plus u have to undershoot the shut off voltage to get the battery to shut off at the correct voltage.

I would not buy any of them. Thanks for the review!!

Hej! Såg din video när du resetade planerad åldring på biltemas batteri, kan man göra det på detta batteriet också?

How to replace 5-pin charger to charge a 2-pin ebike battery

Shocking them with 12V they tend to recover quickly and safely too

Scusa , dove posso trovare lo spinotto maschio del caricatore

buonasera, ho una batteria Phylion Joycube DT-12 , si puo' cambiare lo spinotto ? Se si, quale tipo si puo' mettere?

My battery was sitting brand new in the box since my accident in 2018. I didn't use it. I've plugged it in, and the blue lights roll, then sit lit up, all four, but then when I unplug it, and press the "on" button, the lights don't light up. Pls tell me what your thoughts are. Thank you.💯 P.s. Is it not going on because I no longer have the watch? Don't know what happened to the watch. It's not in the box.

You’re an 18650 MASTER thank you

Thankyou thakyou thankyou.... 😀👍

What was repaired here? Same batteries put back in?

The only store on aliexpress I would but batteries 18650-21700 is Vapcell.

This is great and versatile tool to have in my bag of tools. It can also be a power supply. Sweet! I use it as a backup charger. Thank you for this useful announcement.

Very very helpful! Thanks

Currently use a 12v pack that has 3 18650s and an on off switch I use it for my scooters 12v light and 12v horn if i forget it on it will slowly discharge over a few days. Will this battery do the same thing?

Can you show us how to connect the balance cable? My battery is 10 groups and 9 lines come out of it and I don't think the negative one is one of them. Should I take the negative line separately from the battery? Also, is it mandatory to connect the socket in the specified place and connect the balancer in parallel exactly? Or is it possible to be flexible?

Nice, I will assume i will be getting one of these case with my new 21700 48v, it's hard to gauge as they are sketchy on details and there is no stock till December 24. All i wanted to see was the mounting on/of motion to gauge a new frame.✌

i jave problem with my battery someone help me?

i was going to try connecting a 20 amp charger and a 5 amp charger will I get 25 amps of charging?

Hej, ser att videon är 5 år gammal men ger det ett försök. Vet du vad de 3 kablarna som går till laddporten gör? Jag har en NIU N1S utan batteri och har ett 64V batteri (ej NIU) liggandes men den startar ej på detta så tänker att de 3 trådarna har någon funktion?

What is that name of that 2pin cord you are using ??? In the video