very similar to a diesel particulate filter vapouriser. glow plug and a spray of diesel to burn out the soot of the exhaust filter. gets the exhaust up to 600c

You done well 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😊

Well done now i know

Looks horrible all that soot

I changed all my led screens to the blue screens with the spanner in the top left hand corner and the led remote, which allows access to the special settings menu. The heater ecu also has to be the blue board with the bi metallic silver strip tuning across it, I now burn exclusively kerosene instead of diesel and service the burners every summer cleaning the chambers by filling with oven cleaner leaving to soak for about half an hour then rinsing with water 3 times, this removes any large carbon deposits trapped in the burner. I then blow the burner dry with a heat gun and resemble.

Hello if you please can you tell me how much hours work in good situation before maintains and which level from 1 to 10 work good without cock get in ....are you understand me?

There is also a screen in the other holes you were jamming that tool in, and if you damage that, you will have to replace the whole burner. The best way to clean that screen out is to burn the entire end, and get it red hot. Mine starts up like that too, and usually after I haven't used it consistently. It usually always starts, after the second attempt. I've had it apart several times and still can't figure out why. It has always come apart clean tho with very little soot, and for the most part it is on low, with an occasional high run to warm things up quickly. (I live in Western Wa State.) If you coat the gaskets with graphite, they come off without damage every time. I've had my 2k for about three years and I love it but I can't run it unless it is below 40f.

That screen maybe your atomizer not to play with it

Just watching your video about to get into it! Very helpful! Thanks!! Notes I’ve taken- don’t tighten the clutch on when trying to remove it lol. And toss the one way bearing! Just bought my machine. It’s a jalopy with a farmer build box welded on and a vise grip zip strapped to the frame squeezing a brake line?? lol Wish me luck!!

Did you consider running a copper or aluminum exhaust pipe line from heater at an angle across a longer space to near the ceiling then exiting building so heat radiation loss is to the inside of building rather lost going directly outside?

Have you ever had it to where it’s a little rough to change the gears? Instead of smooth changing from r to n to h or low

The dogs DO all the work and suffer the abuse from handlers! Watch some videos and educate yourself!

It also says in the book NOT to mount sideways! Intake and exhaust should be facing down! At least that's what it says in the one I bought!

I got same issue been adjusted several times and happens again within a few days..

Thanks for this. I have been thinking of tackling this project and your video will definitely help.

Awesome job! Thanks for sharing. I didn't want to tackle it using just the exploded views that I could find. Plus, my girlfriend would have killed me if I tried and couldn't get it back together before deer season. I'm definitely going to do the job after this season and do the one way bearing delete while I'm at it. One less thing to wear down and have to replace again later. Mine already has a metal whine above 20mph, which goes away when you release the accelerator, which I'm hoping is just the one-way bearing being worn out. Also, had a lot of smoke last season and realized after disassembly for the belt replacement, that one of the spark plug wires was melted to the exhaust heat shield, so basically all last season we were running on one cylinder. Works great now, and no smoke! Thank you again for sharing the video!!

Do not-Do not-Do not heat break cleaner. Those vapors can be very fatal, very fast. Phosgene gas is the same chemical used in WW1 chemical warfare. Another cheap but flammable cleaner is carburetor cleaner, also found generically at Walmart and is leaves no residue. It is a superb paint gun cleaner also.

Way faster just to pull the 2 straps on the fuel tank and move it out of the way. Gives you a nice open area

I have been using a blend of kerosene and some hot shots extreme or stanadyne all season additive. You need to have a 20 to 30 % kerosene to diesel mix. I have been doing this for a number of years and I have found it to be very successful. Also have the correct settings for your altitude. The trick is to have it burn hot at the low speed and not to flood the burner chamber. Understand that they do need some serviceing from time to time usually just replacing the atomizer screen and making sure that your air intake and exhaust are clear. The Espar unit recommends using straight kerosene for 30 minutes and that will help to clear the screen. If you want the altitude settings check out utube.

Autoterm is a better heater

Get yourself some welders needle files

On my Vevor heater manual, it says not to mount the heater sideways or upside down. It says with picture diagrams to only mount it straight with exhaust and intake ports pointing down toward floor.

ultrasonic cleaner would have ripped off every bit of stuff what was inside that filter

I know in this case the brake cleaner has had no problem at all breaking down your gunk but for baked on carbon, I have found carb cleaner to be far more effective, brake clean would not touch the crud on my cars intake manifold but it dissolved quickly with carb cleaner.

Why remove the screen? Why not just use your carb or brake cleaner then blow out with compressed air.. from both sides or from it's down stream side out... till clean...?

I do believe that truck may have been running heavy. 😁 Speaking of which, if you haven't already plated it by the time I post this, rent yourself a heavy plate. Something in the 1,000lb range. See if you can get a reversing plate as well. Easier to use. The big plates are much slower moving, but they are also much more authoritative.

Im curious why you don't just burn propane? I know its more expensive but it emits co2 when you burn propane which would benefit your plants.

Thanks for the in-depth repair. Now I don't have any more apprehension with tearing into one! You might get a cleaner burn if you route the intake combustion air tube to the outside of the building. Probably wouldn't do much when you first start as the room air is cold anyway but as the room warms, the unit is suckin in warm air instead of cold, so not quite as good for combustion. It will be even more relevant if you try lesser fuels, then a super clean burn will matter more.

Instead of brakeclean, I suggest throttle body cleaner. I find it just disolves carbon.

Great job, how many miles do you have on your machine. I have 10,000 on mine.

It sounds like your Fuel Pump is upside down. The output end of the Pump must be pointing up .

Those are made for composite decking. Not real wood.

Say, I don't know what I'm doing.

Use Kerosene, can mix with veg oil as a mix. Long burn. I used Long nose pliers to get Metal gause out of feed pipe. Better heat from Kerosene.

Will I find them on a Lingonberry Tree?

Do you know why my fuses are always blowing up? I just got mine and it’s never stated because it just blows fuses

very nice

air intake for combustion should always be outside with the exhaust. Heaters dont like pressure differences and there can be smoke from the intake sometimes to.

Hello, a very beautiful and heartfelt video. Which camera was used to take the picture.

where?

To much fuile running rich

Quite unusual for Denali to be so clear. .

Beautiful

such a beautiful canyon

you mix vegetable oil with petrol, not with diesel. It's called a home made bio-diesel Schur mixture (also a bit of 100% alcohol into the pretrol before putting the petrol into the vegetable oil but that is only needed for Diesel engines) The ideal ratio is 5% alcohol (again, only needed for diesel engines, helps with ignition), 10-20% petrol (depending on how cold it gets, the petrol makes it less viscous) and then the rest is vegetable oil. Vegetable oil burns much cleaner than Diesel. Also if you have problems with soot you need to increase the fan speed for any given pump frequency (low: 1.5Hz at 2000-2500RPM, high: 3.6-4.0Hz at 5000RPM) That way it burns more lean which is a much cleaner burn.

this was useful for me. thank you.

You’re having incomplete combustion. It’s burning rich leading to the unit coking/sooting and this gets worse over time. You need to introduce more oxygen to burn cleaner and hotter! Carbon build up reduces heat transfer in the screen, the ignition/burn chambers, and the metal housing. It never gets up to proper operational temperature resulting in a “cold blooded” machine. Just like an internal combustion engine, carbon build up will destroy your machinery eventually. Carbon is a thermal insulator. Many high temperature coatings use ceramic and/or carbon to protect against over heating or melting. Research stochiometric burn ratios if your doubtful. The fix: 1: Disassemble and clean. 2: Install new burn screen. 3: replace gaskets as needed. 4: Inspect the tiny ignition chamber where the diesel fuel enters. Nearby you’ll see a hole with nothing inside it leading to the ignition chamber. Be sure this hole is NOT obstructed in any way. Be very careful to completely seat the burn screen all the way down into the ignition bore. Look into the air port (you should not see the screen or any obstruction!!!). 5: Before you install a new burn screen do the following: Drill this hole to a newer larger size. Be sure you do not damage the fuel port, glow plug threading, or screen. Consider drilling another hole 180 degrees apart from the factory air port. The default design and machining from the Chinese factories are very sloppy. These units burn rich straight from the factory because of this lack of attention to the air port in the ignition chamber. 6: Look at your exhaust system. It should dip down at least 1/4” every foot or more aggressive with no traps or dips to allow soot, water, and diesel to drain from the exhaust system. Also the mufflers design is meant to be installed in any orientation. However the original designs told their customers to drill tiny drain holes in the lowest spots to allow drainage. These D2, D3, and D4 designs are of Western origin that had the patents expire. Once that patents expired the Eastern companies copied the Western designs but poorly with out providing proper customer instruction or machinery documentation. 7: Use larger gauge copper multistranded wire/conductor. You need to eliminate or reduce electrical resistance as much as possible. Go with the largest wire gauge you can. 14-10 American Wire Gauge is a good place to start. The longer your wires the larger the gauge you need. Also charge your batteries. If possible add more batteries in parallel to your battery bank. By adding more batteries in parallel you increase the electrical “flow” or capacity. If you run too small a battery bank you’ll lose capacity and then voltage will quickly drop. Or consider buying a cheap AC to DC wall plug adapter. Look for 12 volts @ 10-30 amps if possible. 8: Look at the glow plug itself. You’ll see the wires loosely wrapped around the ceramic glow plug rod. If possible find high temperature solder around 500 F - 1000 F (or higher if you can) and solder the glow plug wiring to the glow plug rod. This will destroy the clear poly shrink tubing they use as a safety insulator. I use Permatex room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) copper orange. This sealant only protects up to 600 F intermittently. It will last for a year or two before the copper orange RTV breaks down. 9: As others have mentioned, consider using a diesel additive. I use Diesel 911 as it prevents diesel gelling in cold weather, burns hotter, adds lubrication for the needle pump/injector, and it’s cheap per dose. One bottle typically doses 50-500 gallons US depending where you purchase it. It’s typically 16-40 Ounces in a package and you’ll only ever use 1-2 ounces per fill up or less. I dose my 6 gallon tank at 1-12 ounces and I love my results. 10: Inspect your fuel lines! Do NOT use typical orange/green/yellow soft fuel lines. Use the 2mm nylon tubing and 3mm rubber hosing to make connections. If you’re feeling fancy you can run the fuel lines in 2mm copper or titanium. The copper is said to clog because copper and diesel are thought to be incompatible. My copper line has had no issues over 8 years of use. 2mm Titanium is the premium material but it doesn’t bend readily and you must follow strict process to bend it accordingly. I live at 5280 ft elevation with lower oxygen/air pressure. After I enlarged the factory air port and drilled another one opposite into the ignition chamber my start up and smoke problems are gone!

any bear or wolf sightings?

nice video i subbed

Is it possible to have adverse possession of an outhouse?