Happy new your lass nice to see Jack progressing

Happy New Year! Tippex works as a silver solder resist, too, should you ever need it. 🚂 🚂. Steve from Sheffield.

Any chance of a part 2 for this? :)

Mit einem Messwerkzeug anreißen?? Schon im ersten Lehrjahr meiner Ausbildung hätte der Meister mir die Ohren langgezogen! Kann man still und heimlich im Hobbykeller machen. Aber in einem öffentlichen Video....?

Sechskantschrauben und der passende Steckschlüssel würden die Montage erleichtern, das Gefummel mit dem Schraubenzieher muß heutzutage nicht mehr sein!

Nice clear video Ed some good tips included , I think you missed a bit of the turning video at the beginning

Very nice work sir

Nice clear explanation of how to achieve the shape of the buffer head cheers

What transmission will you be using? I built a 3 1/2 inch gauge 1831 but didn't use the crude friction drive transmission. I made a revised version of Laurence Mackey's Constantinescu harmonic transmission, works extremely well and I incorporated reverse in the final gear train.

who are you sending them to shot blasting and painted to? is that economincal? I am interested...... as I have been considering powder coating in the home shop.

Yahyyyy next episode, i am enjoying this build, love the idea of the built up buffers, i might have to steal it for my dyak, do you know any good lazer cutters ? Lol. Just finished the kitchen so can get vack into the shop and up to the club

“Loco remote”…. I need to learn more about that.

Toby well let’s say he’s square

I posted a link to a UK RSU supplier last week but obviously 'upset' something... I bought a RSU a few years ago from Frost Autorestoration Techniques Limited in the UK and I am still using it - no connection with company just a happy customer. Mine was item code B280.

Oops sorry for crashing your video 🤣 thought you had finished at that end! Was good to see you all hope it goes well.

Looks great 😀

Having seen this baby running in the flesh, its a really nice looking model

Good luck with sales, you look to be well stocked, was going to try attend the show but kitchen is at a crucial stage lol

Looks an Amazing setup.. Products look amazing and you can see the dedication and passion in all that you do... The apprentice aint no lil baby no more shes growing up fast... Ar david should be there with his charm 😊 But i suppose eds handsomeness will suffice 😂

Solder paste is nice for doing precision soldering. If you really want to go insane, use a heat resistant varnish, paint over the area around the joint and then remove the varnish in the exact place where the part has to go. You can then apply the paste to that area only. You then tin the mating surface on the part that you are attaching, put it more or less over the solder paste and heat. It will suck down right onto the cleared area with the solder paste, just as components do on printed circuit boards.

Coming on nicely, i have a Resistance soldering unit for my 0 gauge brass kits makes them so much quicker with less cleanup

As the safety valve pipe looks to be a snug fit, does it need a drain hole to allow the condensate out?

Nice job. As a thought, you might want to tack one end of the work together and then you can adjust all the rest to the exact right position. Then you can tack it together a bit farther along, fit up and so on. The a final flow to clean everything us, perhaps using some solder wick to get the excesses. That would be my process here.

Looks like you are having fun fiddling around with your fettling.

To clean up you can scrape soft solder away using a round scalpel blade then burnish it all up using a glass fibre stick in a clutch pencil.

Nice. But I might have been tempted to do silver solder, just if nothing else because of the problem with soft solder melting when working on other bits.

Brownie point 😀

I find using a little blow torch is easier for jobs like this.

16:34 there is a simpler way than dunking the rivet in a pool of glue and then trying to manipulate it into place. Take a sewing pin (or any other piece of suitably thin metal rod) pick up a drop of glue and apply it to the sides inside the hole. This prevents the glue going all over the place. Pick up the rivet with your fingers and push it in the hole. It seems stupidly simple but it works better, your fingers are an extremely delicate and sensitive instrument. If you insist on using tweezers, file two small indents on the inside near the end. The rivet will then seat in the indents and will not tend to fly away.

Holly, Couple of little tips. Give that soldering iron a good wire brushing to clean off all that crud, cleanliness is next Godliness when soldering, keep the heat board clean too. Also those little Chefs blow torches with a gentle flame are superb for small jobs like that. Great series look forward to the finished loco.

Technically the brick and concrete cleaner is between 30 and 40% Hydrochloric acid (the rest being water) The fumes it gives off will eat any ferrous or copper it comes in contact with which makes this one of those jobs that's really better to do outside on a breezy day

Can't wait for part 2, I bought the kit myself and I'm stuck on the chassis and skirts.

@gagasmancave8859 Sent me here. Very interesting. Looking forward to the progress of this project. Subscribed.

Yahyyyy at last,been waiting for this, have you considered stepper motors, not sure what torque they supply

Lots of bits done for me by Ed, really lovely to deal with and very helpful.

Might see you again on Saturday 😀

Called in today and also bought some otvthe dinky little ba spanners

Lovely setup ... hope the cakes good!

I came over yesterday and got some of your excellent little spanners thanks. 😀

I'm looking forward to following your build. This looks to be a fun project. I would suspect that if you ever build another, you will attach the angle irons to the sideplates before assembling anything else. Keeps the sideplates stiff and gives easy access to do the drilling and riveting. So, riveting is excess is it? You are right in that with the electric drive, the action will be smooth and the only vibrations will come from the rails.

This is an interesting model. Catching a moment in time when they were converting some of the old steam engines into more modern Internal Combustion ones. Sort of like what some people are doing with cars and trucks now of days, fitting up electric drive trains in replacement for the IC ones.

Thanks Model Engineers Laser for a great service you provide. I've used some of your parts for my scratch built Gauge 1 schools class. Keep up the good work. Rob

Great project Ed! Look forward to seeing it progress

Whooo been waiting for this

Another project on thego Ed your getting as bad as me. One suggestion for "filing" the wooden bits , a disposable nail file is good on mdf, i will follothis build with interest

Coming on nicely , are the 5" black 5 axles box hornguides similar construction ??

Looking good Ed, I will be following with interest

It's hydrochloric acid. I prefer sulphuric as it has a much less propensity for causing corrosion of ferrous metal in the workshop.

Do you need to silver solder these parts? I'm not confident with silver soldering, so super gluing would be preferred! TIA!

It lives 😀 excellent work