I'm swapping my 4.30 Ring and pinion out for a 5.10 soon on my Mazda RX-8, this will really help me familiarize with the process

Should I use any chemicals or varnish on it after the process to prevent corosion?

I can smell this video….. 😂

You don't need to paint anything if it's Aluminum, stainless steel, bronze etc. it's only needed if cast iron or steel.

Bcnlash is usually set via the flanch nut on the pinion gearshaft… I was wondering what you are going through for the backlash being in spec again.

Amazing video in all aspects🙌

Is there a special way to put back the cam shafts or once u put the intake on the intake side it’s ok?

Thanks for the great video. Good quality and excellent instructions. Quick question before I start. Do hou recommend a brass or brass coated wire wheel? Am about to start on some very dirty valves out of a cross flow engine and want to get it right. Thanks mate!

We always moved shims it's likely the bearings are wearing not the gears.

Jafro I love your videos but take too long for new ones

At minute 27:30 you say you "have a trick up my sleeve to keep it mirror shiny." Did you wver make that video or is it buried in the polishing series. Are you burnishing in molybdenum disulfide?

Dude!!!!! Ur one stubborn and patient motherfucker❤

Bro this could go into my sleepy sounds playlist haha. Sooo satisfying!

5:00 that worked amazing!

This question might be slightly unrelated to the video topic, but here's the thing. I have a 1989 Summit LX with Colt GT rear brakes and pretty much stock suspension in the front with the exception of Elantra LCA's and Colt GT sway bar. And i want to make the conversion to 5x114 instead of 4x114 to get rid of the CAPTIVE ROTOR setup in the front, and fit cooler wheels. I think that for the rear i only need 1G DSM hubs and rotors and that's it, right? But i dont know exactly what i need in the front, so i thought i might ask you, since you are like the god of DSM/CSM cars. Thank you in advance.

I feel extremely lucky to have found my GVR4 in 2017 with virtually zero rust and minimal body dents after watching this video 😅 Excited to tag along on this restoration journey. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Very nice video

Detailed job, as always. Quick question, would you be willing to measure all your tools so they aren't lost to time and could be easily fabricated again?

And suddenly no one was scared to work on their rear diffs anymore 🎉

Best. KZbinr. Ever. GOAT. 🤘🤘

Here's me thinking "Oh I need to do this" but after watching a DSM GOD struggle with this, I'm like NOPE! Where can I send my diff to get this done instead? 😅 PS: My drive train is making gear messing noises under engine braking that go away under accelerator. Is that my diff, carrier bearing or other? How do I narrow it down?

The Civic has joined the VTEC gods. I've been learning on a J30A1 for the better part of three years. Thanks for all you do, it's truly inspiring.

Fantastic episode! I learned so much!

He is absolutely right! Don't even think polishing or make look shiny your aluminium car parts ,because is will oxidation. BUT you can anodise your aluminium parts with stainless steel or other layers ,which will prevent from oxidation. You have many way to do it ,also at home.

I gotta install new subframe bushings soon in my VR4. I really want to install my spare 3 bolt LSD diff from my old 91 TSI while im in there, but my AWS system still works. 🥲

Sooo excited to dive into the Galant diff video after watching this!! Thanks Jafro

This is one of my first subs.....1000 years ago.

how dare you blue ball me at the end with that box!

I broke a finger knocking in shims one time. Got roped into rebuilding a diff with none of the service tools. aint messing with another one without every tool listed in the esm

All that for a stock VLSD? Aren't they only slightly better than open until the fluid inside is sheared (sometimes 50k-75k miles) This would have been a great opportunity to put a real locking diff in there.

Great video on a differential rebuild! The techniques are great for anyone wanting to rebuild an independent rear differential. The shim pack stuff, you may have been ablento get from like Yukon gear or somewhere similar. All around great explanation as always, Mr. Jafro.

Jafro, making tools and documenting them for our ease of use with out making money since 2010.. Thanks Jafro!!

My only mistress is sweet Lady Propane.

@4:03 I had to find this image again, because I was curious about the bracket they are using along with the dumb hammer handle method. The case spreader tool is brilliant, but I wondered if this bracket they are showing did anything to help spread the case in the same way. It says 11Y171 on the example pictured. What's that?

algorithm ... watched on patreon, but as a sacrifice to the KZbin algorithm id leave a comment here too

Is it my good OCD that wants to use a pair of turnbuckle case spreaders instead of just the one, or is it my time-wasting, rabbit-hole descending, tangent-taking, what the hell did I do all day OCD trying rear it's ugly head. If history is any indication, odds are right about 50/50.

buddy i need some advice, I have a suzuki jimny, part time 4x4 no centre diff, I wanna be able to put it in 4x4 on intermittent good traction without worrying about twisting my shafts. Is putting a vc in front prop a thing? or am I special?

To solve your Dykem/ marker application problem & get a perfect streak free even coverage use an air line..... Hold the marker etc close to what you want to cover then spray air over the tip with the air stream and marker tip inline with each other (coplanar). The airstream will draw the fluid from the tip by venturi action and effectively make a miniature spray gun... dries almost instantly too.

You need to a use micrometer to measure your shim thickness, not a caliper. Mitutoyo 103-177 (~$70 b4 tax & shipping) the .0001” scale wraps around the backside of the barrel. Mitutoyo 293-340-30 (~$170 b4 tax & shipping) electric (battery) .00005” (the last digit alternates between 0 and 5). You can inter measurements directly into your computer/spread sheet/word processor (if so inclined) with the proper cable. The former is accurate to +/- one tenth of one thousands of an inch, which is plenty accurate for your work but some people find it tedious to read. The latter is accurate to +/- one half of one tenth of a thousands but reads easily like a caliper. The caliper can give you different measurements depending on how hard you push with your thumb, where the part being measured is in the caliper jaws (deep in the jaws or out at the tips), the amount of play between the “fixed” jaw and the “moveable” jaw sliding rails and the angle between the caliper and the part being measured (best to hold the part in the caliper without touching the part). With use the slider will ware and measurement accuracy will deteriorate, a lot. The slider needs to be adjusted and the caliper calibrated often. IMO the caliper is a feeler gauge, not suitable for the level of accuracy you need when massaging your rear end. The micrometer has a clutch in the barrel that takes the “feel” out of the equation. Place the part to be measured between the anvils and turn the barrel until it contacts the measured part (the barrel will then free spool) then take your measurement. It drives me crazy when I see people trying to adjust the micrometer and then force it onto the part being measured in hopes of achieving the “proper” feel. Using the clutch insures consistency in measurements regardless of who is using it. More info on that is available by searching Gauge R&R (gauge repeatability and reproducibility). Hope this helps.

That turnbuckle hack is brilliant ! Thanks. I’m not a DSM guy but I still enjoy and appreciate your content.

Jafro you need some wood blocks in that vice to give you grip.

Old video but I’ll add 2 things… 1) buy a die grinder with a REAR exhaust. You’ll thank me later. 2) use some masking tape on the delicate areas of the valve seats. I have ported A LOT of heads. A bunch of them were old iron heads. I learned the hard way lol

I spent a week working on my last r180 LSD diff.... You know everything disassembly checking cleaning reassembly new bearings getting the parts everything. I always shoot for a little tighter and I've never had an issue..... if I put that much time and effort into a diff I'd probably go crazy. Out of curiosity how many days of work is this during what time span? If I had to guess I would say 4 or 5 days of actual work over like 2 or 3 weeks.

Jesus Jafro, I started to worry something had happened to you. It's been months! Glad to see you're back! (and healthy!)

Been watching since I was in middle school over a decade ago, glad to see you still around Jafro!

Been watching your videos since i was like 13 huge inspiration im now a tech in the process of starting my own buisness building engines and doing swaps in the process of getting my galant back on the road #7-1000 here 👍🏼

YAY! It's JAFRO DAY!!!

Jafro, I was listening to you in my car as I was on my way home and the propane torch scared the everliving hell out of me. Thought I blew out the tire on my 95 Sentra

3:33 I did this with a Ford 8.8 irs, took the LSD out of a 3.73 and swapped it into an open 3.55

You are a mad man scientist sir.