You can just pull the cluster forward a couple of inches and disconnect the speedometer cable. Its super easy.

Thanks for the information, My lights are on and i'm thinking about doing the tank replacement myself.

Thanks for the video. Did you end up pulling the head off and taking it to a machinist, or ....?

Time capsule for Memorial Day. Nice.

Lots of cool stuff to see! Wonder if that headlight switch still works.

The pair of light housings you pulled out last are the front turn signal/running lights. Happy Memorial Day shipmate.

How did you ground the switch permanently? would it be grounded via the screws to the dash? or did you have to run a wire and ground it ?

supposed to be a nylon ring seal at that location.

Pretty cool that you have that grease gun from your grandfather.

It's always interesting in the Spring to identify what fluids leaked out of my 67 Fastback over the Winter, lol

Just started putting glass in my 68 and this video was a great tip. Thanks!

The old girl moves out smartly!

Looks like you had some great weather for a drive!

did you have to drain some coolant prior to pulling the sensor out?

When slid over to the digital side and just showing AM does that light up at night... so there is lite radio when not using it?

What are the torque specs on the cross member and sway bar bolts? Linkage and mounting bracket

Thank you sir ,,, we just bought a 67 and the floors were wet.. Under it a not very good floor in it all patches.. so we also go dig deeper in this car.. mebe we need those plastics to we will see.. greets FRom Holland Pete en Merel.

I love the way your car looks unrestored all the lines are straight, the gaps between panels look good and the rough areas on the body add character! What size tires are on your car? I'm not a fan of 15+ inch wheels. Really like the way yours looks with that size tire. 👍👍Thanks!!

Thanks for the detailed video. About to start this on my 66 inline 6 Mustang. Very helpful!

I'm missing the entire Parking Brake from dash to wheel (and that has already caused a problem, my wife crunched the driver side door and now I need to replace it), and while I've got a new set with the pieces, I was having a hard time visualizing. Even though mine is a '65, thishelped, and I'll probably be viewing this five or six more times minimum while doing the install. Thanks!

So for the original pin connector in the original harness, you have to cut that and insert the cables one by one into the correct spot on the new control box?

I have the same problem at this point idc I just keep a eye on the coolant and thermostat

If you were in Melbourne Australia I'd be happy to get all those gauges working perfectly for you. I should move to the US and set up, "Ye olde gauge repair shoppe". There seems to be a lot of people on YT having issues with their classic car gauges. The video is over a year old so I suppose you've got the situation sorted by now. Getting the exact right sender is a minefield for these gauges is an absolute minefield most of these replacement parts are made in China. If you don't already know, the gauge resistance for all your gauges is 73 ohms at low and 10 ohms at high. The little device you keep referring to as a relay is a voltage reducer/regulator which drops the voltage from 12 to 5, if it's showing 5.5 it's a little too high. If it's an original thermal type, get rid of it and install a solid state unit and honestly if you're handy with a soldering iron you can build your own super cheap and be extremely reliable, there are plenty of circuits on line. Then check that the gauge windings are still okay. You should be able to look inside the gauge without taking the dial off, if the windings are black, they're burned. The gauge might still work but now very well. If the windings are still okay, like if they;re a light tan color, then the problems are in your senders. Oil sender should be 70-75 ohms with engine off then climb to about 25 ish ohms with engine at idle. Temp will be very high ohms at cold, for some reason they are all different at cold but all very high, in the hundreds of ohms but the thermister resistance changes very quickly once it starts to warm up, engine cool should climb quickly to 70 ish ohms then at operating temp should be around 20-25 ohms. Tank unit should be 73 E, 23 Half, 10 F. If the regulator is holding 5.5 volts, it's high but if the gauges are okay they will just read a little high but the output voltage should not be higher than 5.05 to 5.01. Anyway, if you get yourself a 3 watt 100 ohm wire wound potentiometer from your local electronics parts store, you can use that a a proxy sender to test the gauges. Just mount it on a plate, draw a reasonable 0-100 scale in 10 ohm steps. Lately YT keeps recommending these videos to me but they're all old and I wish I could be more help.

Those seats look great in the car. They sure look a lot more comfortable than the originals. I think I agree that the pony interior is a winner. I also bet those white inserts are much cooler than black in the summer.

Those are some nice looking seats.

I rebuilt mine with pony deluxe sport-r black with red stitching. Beautiful, but now, in hindsight, It may have been a tactical error per the free swinging back. As the knight templar in the Indiana Jones movie said, "You chose wisely." Apparently, I "chose poorly."

I have the rtx version for the 65 mustang. I figured i was going to go big since i have my wifes approval. Still working my way up to it. I enjoy how meticulous you are in presenting the minutia that Ellie and Jade neglect to show. There are challenges everywhere and you do an amazing job showing the rest of us garage monkeys the pitfalls. Thank you!

Thanks for sharing this information. It is very helpful.

Looks like a fun car to drive. Keep it up.

This is the payoff for all that hard work. There is nothing better than a spin in a classic Mustang!

Thanks for filming your adventures in the Mustang. Please consider holding the camera phone horizontal so we can get a wide and full picture. Thanks!

I installed Dakota Digital gauges on my 69 mustang which already had an EFI set up (Edelbrock Pro Flo4). Dakota sells a bridge module that allows you to connect the Dakota gauges to the efi system. Once plugged in, it reads the water temp and tach directly from the EFI system. It also can display many of the efi vitals if you didn’t want to look at the sniper screen.

So much work!! It has paid off. Looks great, and you can be very proud of the car, and your hard work.

Great video, but really want to see the Tachometer working too. I’m close to buying a set of these gauges too & been waiting to see your installation.

I am just starting to install a complete wiring harness in my 67 Coupe (289 / C4) along with an Intellitronix Gauge cluster. The harness is a CJ Classics factory replacement (w/ the modern blade type fuse box and space for additional circuits). While not the same as what you did, this gives me much information as to what to look for (and look out for). I appreciate your video journaling the steps you have gone through to get your car up, running and now upgrading. My project has been a long time thing as well. Please keep doing what you are doing.

Sorry to hear about your cat. That is really sad. On the other side of it, the comparison shot with the new gauges look great! I bet you can't wait to get them in the car (when the rest of the parts arrive)

wow, that's going to look great! something to consider for my 67FB

Check continuity on the wires to each sending unit then get a 100ohm resistor at radio shack or a low ohm pot like 1,000 ohms (or under) and connect one end to chassis ground and the center tab to the wire to the gauge. With the gauges powered up vary the position of the pot and the gauge should move

You have done a fantastic job, thumbs up for sure. I too have fixed so many things in my 68 it would take 30 minutes just to go through the list. Again I applaud your effort. I'm sorry about your mom, may she rest in peace.

Also, when you have the seats out fixing the heater core is a lot easier.

I too must clean, sand and paint every area I work on. What that does is it make all my projects take 3 times longer than they would normally take. In the end I'm happier because the entire job is much more complete. Of course you can't restore every area to concourse quality but good is good enough in many cases.

I see that you have hood turn signal indicators, that's a 67 / 68 thing only. I have a 68 and I love that cool feature. 67 /68 are fords best work. I changed out 9 wiring harnesses, all my gages work and that is what makes my car special IMHO.

Good video, thumbs up for sure.

CJ Pony parts has plenty of videos. I just watched it

Kinda makes all that hard work worth it!

My local car club made the decision many years ago to not charge anyone to show their car. We found that it turned a lot of folks off. Many times clubs charge so they can donate the proceeds to a local charity. If that is the case, they should be up front about it.

Lots of great information. I've been to several car shows with my 67 Mustang. I take a small first aid kit, jumper cables (you may not need them, but it might help someone else). A 4 in 1 screwdriver, and some vise grip pliers. This might not be something everyone would do, but if I see a small child with their parents who is interested in my car, I will ask them if they would like to sit in the car. Usually their face lights up.

Great tips. Especially about the chair. It was a good reminder for me to pick up a chair for this year!

Thank you. This is the first video I've seen on this to be detailed enough to give me the courage to do this myself. Looking forward to your other videos.

Really enjoying your videos, which I just recently came across, so I’m late to game. I can relate to how you are learning as you’re going through this process, just like many of us “car guys” that have no training , but tackle it all through love of these cars. Your connection to it being your parent’s car originally, just adds that little extra emotion. Well done.