Thanks for doing this video. My 95 Riviera has the same problem (blower runs all the time). This confirms my suspicion that the module is the problem. I believe the module is behind the glove box on my car.

I have your cobalt down in central Florida now!

I am having the same problem ..this video helped thanks

Man bless you I've been fighting right here trying to find that thank you so much

Now let’s talk about a fresh rebuilt 305 with no oil pressure

Pulled it out of a field and didn't even bother to change the oil before putting it on the road? Seriously? And then you dump seafoam in it and drive it for another couple weeks? Did you finally manage to kill it?

My Park avenue has the same relay compartment which one of those are for my clutch on my compressor for the air conditioner?

I love the 3.8L engine

Tight. I almost removed the wrong cover. Thanks!

Thanks for the video was having the same problem with my buick. So I'm gonna try and see what happens.

Thnx,awsome!!!

So I have a 1994 deville pretty much the same set up as far as the blower motor and it has a digital screen and it just has lines where it says the temp and it won’t do anything I think it might be this

Do you know if this is the same setup for a 96 Riviera?

Did you have a ice maker in the freezer? We do and have to get that off.

Man may God bless you I have changed fans fuses the whole nine and it's still I could get it to run but it would run all the time now that I seen your video it's on and popping thank you

Had a brand new engine had an AC Delco filter on it ran it 5 miles for the break in oil and changed it. we put a Fram filter on it and new oil and it went from having 60 psi to zero oil pressure! We thought the gauge was wrong until the valves started rattling because they weren’t getting any oil. We assumed the oil pump shaft broke. We removed the oil pan change the oil pump and we put an M55HV on it, put it all back together put oil back in it started the car it had 10 pounds of pressure then went to zero almost immediately. I worked at an engine shop where I bored engines built engines, machined and built heads you name it we did it. I had heard stories from Customers saying Fram oil filters were making their oil pressure go crazy just out of the blue so we removed the brand new Fram filter and put the old AC Delco back on it. The oil pressure went up to 70 psi cold. I have no idea how that happened because the adapter the oil filter screws onto has a bypass valve in it so if the filter was stopped up it should have just bypassed the filter altogether but for some reason none of that worked. so I will never ever run a Fram oil filter again and I wouldn’t recommend anyone running them either.

helpful video otherwise thanks

its a 3.8 V6 not a 3.6

Its probably paraffin wax from cheep oil, mine did that and after some time got a lot better, a lot of oil changes.

The orange can of death.

I’m having this problem but I don’t see any broken wire. How can I test them?

Thank you! Did that solve your problem?

I'm wondering how all of these wires are ended up being cut apart? What would cause that to happen?

Good job and thanks

Good job thanks very much

I got 92 park ave blower motor comes on sometimes blows for coupla days then just stops u think it's that

This actually helped out a lot. Thank you.

Back in the old days, before multi grade oils and such, if you bought a high, or suspected high mileage motor, you did NOT go straight home and change the oil, MANY motors were toasted that way. Why? Sludge. People didn’t, and still don’t, change their oil regularly. Sludge builds up. Today’s oils have much more detergents in them than years ago, but it still is a fact they get sludge up. You run motor cleaners through them and they clean all the sludge and varnish loose and your a happy clam….except it ALL doesn’t go to the filter. It goes all through the motor , plugging oil galleys and carrying hard deposits to the bearings , through the oil pump and all around. The same fix we used then works now. Several short term oil and filter changes will pick up and move the sludge in smaller amounts. Amounts the detergents can keep it suspended in the oil. Also, dropping the pan before and after running a cleaner through a motor is crucial. Maybe this motor will last, my money says not long. Long term low rpm and short, not to full operating temp runs are engine killers. Some guys pour diesel or kerosene in the crankcase to flush, again, Russian roulette. Also, never forget low oil pressure at idle can be a sign of crank bearing worn out and / or oil pump failing. This wasn’t a “ fix” it was a “ Hail Mary”.

Thx you... You're right couldn't find anywhere else video about this.

I'll pull the tube but I'm occasionally getting water on the floor. I plan to attach some #12 copper wire to the heating element and run it along the top of the evaporator, hoping that the wire heats enough to melt all the ice. Otherwise, I'll be dismantling this thing every 3 months. I will also attach wire to the bottom of the heating element and extend it along the drip tray and down into the drain hole to stop that backup from occurring. Thanks for the video that dealt exclusively with the freezer. It's the only one I've found. For everyone else: Samsung electronics seem to be fine. DON'T BUY A SAMSUNG APPLIANCE! They're crap and nothing but trouble.

The engine is full of sludge from over 20 years of low speed driving and long intervals between oil changes. You need to pull the engine for a cleaning and refresh.

Can you reset it somehow?

I’d say the filter did it’s job

Thanks for making the video. Totally saved me a TON of time! And the last words: "It's a 3.8." Video ends abruptly. Lmao. (edit) Talk about a rather complex (and expensive) module!!! Wow!! Aaarghh! ;-)

How much do thay cost?

Thanks alot

93 park ave same issue

the Fram did it's job!

Thank You. I’m having the same issue and I’m going to tackle it today after seeing this video.

i have a 2005 gmc envoy. suddenly the key fobs stopped working. then i noticed the radio would turn off when the key was turned off, also the rear wiper would not work. i went to the rear hatch, lifted it up, looked up, found the rubber boot running from the hatch to the vehicle body, took a flat screw driver and pushed on the clip of the white ring at the bottom of the rubber boot ( it has this white ring at both ends of the rubber boot) to release the rubber boot from the vehicle so it would expose the wires. after i released both ends of the rubber boot , i started pulling on each wire as if i were trying to pull the wire out of the rubber boot. i pulled on the blue wire and out it came.... broken completely in two. i reconnected the blue wire backed together and presto everything worked great again. didnt even have to reprogram the key fobs.

It worked great, bought the part at the junkyard for $6.99 and the burned-out connector for $2.99 installed it and it works great, saved $315.00, that's what the mechanic was going to charge, parts and labor. Thanks once again.

thanks

Been having hard time finding anything on this but in forms good thing found this video.. I have the digital control Climate control system. Speed goes all crazy and on and off by it self been trying to find where the module location was at This helps alot thankyou!

1990 Chevy 1500. Value Guide seals. Smokes on start up. I had them replaced that stopped it!!

Make sure y'all check y'all oil cap

Thank you soooo much!!! Exact car, exact problems and we were able to fix it because of you!

Never use fram oil filters

94 Buick Park Avenue with the same issue. Fan stays on, and I have to unplug it or it will drain the battery. Thank you, this will save me $190. Oh my goodness, thank you so much.

had a 97 suburban 5.7 just at 200,000 miles. At start up pressure was fine but after warm and run highway for 50 min oil pressure went way down to about 10 -12 lbs at idle. always used synthetic oil. I replaced oil pump to no help. Was told could be seals, finally swapped out with a new 350