2002 Deville

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@PowerUpAuto 6 күн бұрын

Well done. To keep the glass up $3 suction clip Harbor Freight Tools.

@NickRoshon 10 күн бұрын

Just used this on my 2002 Arnage T. A little different for back doors but not much! The swearing cracked me up, I feel your pain (literally)

@AstonSubstantive Ай бұрын

Thank you!

@papasgarage Ай бұрын

thank you for making this, what year Arnage was this? mine were under the car.

@f.hababorbitz 2 ай бұрын

This video of the Buick straight 8 was also interesting. Amazing hole in the side. And you drove it home. I also have two Chevy trucks, with a similar design inline 6. These are 55 and 56, so that was a common GM design. I just did the same task of removing the manifolds from the cylinder head. They use the same alignment rings. On the 235 engine, the outer two manifold bolts are just alignment pins (short studs with no outer threads). I did notice in your video, that there was an exhaust leak seen on the manifold gaskets, adjacent to your intake leak. When you change out the new engine, might want to check if the exhaust manifold had erosion from that leak that removed castiron enabling that leak to continue. That may require a machine shop to resurface the intake and exhaust cylinder head mating surface. And like the 6 cylinder version, you can't get a torque wrench on those bolt heads, to torque. Like the truck, a real pain without help to hold the manifold in place to get the first bolts started. Seems studs in the cylinder head would hold the gasket in place, as only those alignment rings on the intake manifold holes keep the gasket from falling. That slightly too long of a bolt with the thermostat casting, a bench grinder can shorten that just a bit. Grind a nice 45 chamfer to keep the starting thread being a problem. Oddly, I replaced the water pump on my Inline-6, and the bolt heads rubbed on the fan pulley. Appears the new water pumps were made to fit many model years, and don't fit perfectly on all of them. The not using Plastic gauge method seems to be perfect, just do it by feel. And hoarding connecting rods helps too. :D My experience with a connecting rod failure was my teenage 1962 Pontiac Grand Prix and I needed a new crankshaft, which JC Whitney (sad they are gone now) had available in stock ground undersize with bearing set, that a high school kid could afford to buy (1974). $90 I think. 389 V8 was common.

@f.hababorbitz 2 ай бұрын

Nice collection of cars. Nice trick using a shoelace and sandpaper to clean up the connrod journal.

@f.hababorbitz 2 ай бұрын

I'm just starting to work on restoring my 1924 TT. All 4 tires of mine are dry rotted, have zero flexibility left in them. Beads are torn open on one side on two of them. Being a truck, it uses the size your working on, as fronts, rear tires are 33x5. It looks like there's just a slight drop center on the rim, that makes me believe you want to break the bead on both sides first. When I do conventional auto tires, tubeless, I spray window cleaner or dishwashing soap to reduce the chance of taking a bite from the tire bead (if doing flat repair), but it makes it easier to remove them. The down side using tire lubes, they are water based, and that water stays in the tire after airing it up. And that will corrode stuff. Talc would be a good thing to dust inside the tire carcass. I agree with the flap, it protects the tube from being pinched by your tire iron. That valve is called a Schrader valve. They make a valve stem fishing tool, that can be a small chain or cable attached to what looks like a valve cap, that screws onto the innertube stem. That lets you pull the inner tube stem back through the hole, should you not install them the way you did, by being careful and attempting alignment. You have no lube dry or wet, and the Pour40 stuff is sticky on your new rubber. With bike tires I've always slide the tire relative to the tube, as that will cut and shear it off when aired up. Here in Iowa, the land fill charges $6/tire. I cut them into 4 quarters, stack them, and place in black plastic garbage sack. The land fill has to pay to have them hauled away. Did your 1923, originally come with silver painted rims? Curious how much you paid for the on sale tires from Lucas? Thanks for the video, cuss words didn't bother me a bit, as I use them to keep me from using a sledge hammer and "strike any key when ready".

@flawrence11 2 ай бұрын

Hello. My car had silver pained rims when I bought it, so I decided it keep it that way. I checked my invoice from Lucas and it shows $716 for the four tires. The four tubes were $72 and the flaps were $136. I just checked the Lucas website and they're the same price (regular price, over a year later), so it looks like I was hoodwinked into thinking they were on sale. One thing that this video doesn't show is that I was sore for 3 days after I did this job. There is no way that this job could have been completed using the "garbage bag" trick that some people mention. Interestingly, I replaced the tires on my '31 Model A and the job was much less difficult. Much less. The Model T tires grip the rims with much more force than the Model A.

@f.hababorbitz 2 ай бұрын

@@flawrence11 I took all four rims off my truck yesterday after watching your video. The first rear tire I used a reciprocating saw, as the rubber was to hard to flex. And I found the steel wire they use around the bead, to be corroded to where it would just tear to pieces. On a truck the rear tires are larger then the front. They are 23x5, a bit harder to find. And the flaps are not typically carried. I did find they are on backorder at Coker tire. The truck used all blackwalls. They used to have knobby tread pattern, but now only passenger treads are being reproduced. That's OK. But I want to get the running gear in proper order, as well and engine, before I tackle the "C" cab. I don't know what the farmer that owned this truck pre 1970 hauled in the bed, but it corroded all the bottom sheet metal off, as wheel the rear sheetmetal of the cab, and I have no idea how it is bolted to the frames as that's all gone. I purchased the truck from my neighbor, and moved it here back in 1984, and it's been stored waiting for a larger space to put it in. This I had built last summer, so it just got moved into the new garage last week. At age 67, I'm running out of time to restore this. I'm surprised there are so many businesses that are selling parts, as I would think the unrestored Model T market would be dried up by now. I better hurry, as that can change.

@EBROUSSARD1 3 ай бұрын

Your step by step instructions are perfect. And as you said, I don't believe there's another video on how to do this job for this model. Good job thanks.

@EBROUSSARD1 3 ай бұрын

So did it take care of the balance?

@flawrence11 2 ай бұрын

@@EBROUSSARD1 Yes, it sure did. It took a couple of days of driving before everything felt perfect. I am very pleased with the results.

@jamesorozco1243 3 ай бұрын

What a good video .this is the best i've ever seen . You make it look easy. Thanks

@TheBanshee17-SS 3 ай бұрын

An honest mechanic this guy is a real one

@mahmoudhasnaoui1279 3 ай бұрын

Very messy work Sorry to say

@joekomp3409 3 ай бұрын

This is my next Project. Thanks for your videos on the Arnage. And don't worry about the cursing, Fuck it thats life!

@joekomp3409 3 ай бұрын

I have to THANK YOU for this video!! I have a 2005 Arnage with the same problem on ALL the Windows. As you know you can not find any repair manuals for Bentley Arnages. Because of you, ALL of my windows NOW WORK!!! Was a lot of work but did all 4 windows. The problem wasnt with the regulators or the motors , the problem is the windows don't get used enough and the cable system used to raise and lower the windows sometimes dry up and stick. My problem is I didnt see the 2 screws that were located under the wood door panels so I didnt know how to get the top panel off. Your video was the missing link lol. Thank you. I wd40 the cables reall good ans took a small hammer and tapped the motors and regulators a few times while working the switches up and down and they freed up all the windows. to get to the regulator to tap it the speaker DOES need to be removed. You definitely made my day watching this video!! Thanks again for a great job. Enjoy your Arnage, I LOVE mine.

@tammichristensen603 4 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for this video! It is possible to install the clutch pressure plate backwards. Don't ask me how I know.

@bwasman8409 6 ай бұрын

Of all the utube videos I have watched...hundreds.....I have never heard the "f" word. You must be a teenager!

@f.hababorbitz 2 ай бұрын

Your culture invented the word (UK). Fornication Under Carnal Knowledge. It's a legal term. But being single syllable, easy to yell, and for some reason is now the major word of choice when dealing with irritating people and things. And I've heard it on many YT channels. You must be watching holy roller channels.

@bwasman8409 6 ай бұрын

Henry Never put a flap in tires that I know of! Although I am not stating they are useless.

@coreymcdonald1520 6 ай бұрын

Your videos saving my life

@tiredironrepair 7 ай бұрын

53:00 Or to bend 32 valves.

@Phiyedough 8 ай бұрын

In UK we call them beaded edge tyres.

@cutitlikeme44 9 ай бұрын

Did it end up running?

@darkshadows6121 9 ай бұрын

you are a great Mechanic i wish you lived close by by to do my northstar

@donaldb3628 10 ай бұрын

You should use talc powder to allow the tube and flap to slide around into alignment.

@marlonfb6_raiden662 10 ай бұрын

This video looks very helful but damn Video quality is soo poor.

@surfcitygenecarrothersabec7634 11 ай бұрын

You should NEVER air up the tire on a rim that is not secured!!! The easy way to secure it is to mount the rim on the car then air it up. This is especially ture with the clinchers because you need to over infalte the tire to seat the beads. I learned about this when I was airing up a couple of tires that I had just mounted when the rim separated from the tire. Luckily I was not killed or injured!! The rim was launched high into the air coming down about 20 or 30 feet away !! This was about 4 years ago and the tire and rim are still running perfectly . If you check tire inflating procedures you will be warned and instructed to use only a lockable air nozzle to the stem as well. I guess the reason I was lucky is that I was changing these tires for a friend .. My '12 has nondemountables.

@augydoggy71 Жыл бұрын

lol.

@blackericdenice Жыл бұрын

Buy Felpro head bolts and don’t torque them more than 65 lbs-ft. They will not pull the threads out.

@jackwild1111 Жыл бұрын

LMAO 😂... Interesting video, reminds me of n Anthony Bourdain quote: " things got lost, things got broken, we took some casualties... But I wouldn't have missed it for the World" 🌎

@GeraldNelson-rp2ct Жыл бұрын

Plug the return jacket to encourage radiator circulation this will stop overheating problem

@jameswhite1319 Жыл бұрын

Definitely helps thankyou for your time

@92306bmzclassics Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the help. Video was helpful.

@narele25 2 жыл бұрын

POV: You were shocked when you saw the year of the camera say 2016, and expected this to be a throwback.

@soopsoopdawoooop5586 2 жыл бұрын

gd bless ya that was a jb my friend

@Gawdsqwad 2 жыл бұрын

10:03 the terminology instantly gives me confidence to do this this is real get things done attitude I like this

@amarsta 5 ай бұрын

😂

@mikecornell9981 2 жыл бұрын

When you figure out were that snappering goes posted I'd like to know

@mikecornell9981 2 жыл бұрын

You're not showing where that snap rain goes

@leonardpeters3266 2 жыл бұрын

That is a very special kind of insanity. I was thinking of doing this but then I decided I would throw roofing nails on the ground and roll around in them naked instead. My hat is off to you sir. And it isn't like I haven't done some crazy stuff like pulling the motor on a 95 park avenue. But this is a bit much.

@EzekielPrado 2 жыл бұрын

I feel old seeing this video, recorded in 2016? Feels like the 90s

@jesuschristiskingofkingslo2023 2 жыл бұрын

your language is horrid!

@james7664 2 жыл бұрын

Watching this video actually gave me the confidence to take mine apart and get dirty … great video love it !!

@wakepe1 2 жыл бұрын

Loved your honesty and awesome job now as for the rear valve cover you only have to get the EGR out n the valve will come out without removing any lower bolts I haven’t gotten to the heads just yet but I’ve pulled the covers off thank you for this awesome coverage 👑

@justinbreaux2784 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video, I just removed my rear axle and transmission. I'm pretty bad about destroying things getting them out. This might save me some headache.

@blackalgorithmist000 3 жыл бұрын

I had a 1998 Cadillac DeVille I had to do some work on it was the first car to introduce me into the mechanic world and I'm glad that it did because those Northstar engines are definitely trash and very complicated to work on but on top of that I also had some head gasket problems I had to put a new seal on mines which was a pain in the ass so the fact that you replace the head gaskets all in itself I could only imagine how frustrating it was

@davidjames666 3 жыл бұрын

Hello. I recommended this video to my 1st graders to teach them determination. but their parents objected to your swearing, and colorful metaphors. next year, I will be reaching third graders, so I will recommend it to them.

@spicemasterii6775 3 жыл бұрын

Kids at South Park elementary loved this video.

@joshuamcfelt3423 3 жыл бұрын

I m doing this one my 2000 seville Sts in just need to take of the front and rear manifold so when I drop part of the sub fram to get to them do I just do the front and when I use the jack to keep the botor lifted were do I use the jack ?

@flawrence11 3 жыл бұрын

There is a metal brace that is over the exhaust crossover and that (I think) bolts onto the transmission. You can see the jack in its place around 35:40 of the video. You have to use this brace to hold up the engine, NOT the oil pan. Yes, the trick to doing this job with the engine still in the car is to remove the back head with the exhaust manifold still attached to it. You don't need to take the front manifold off ... only remove the bolts for the front exhaust manifold and detach it from the head. As for the rear manifold, you do your disconnecting from the head once the rear head is out of the car. Remember to use lots of jack stands around the engine cradle while you are under there.

@flawrence11 3 жыл бұрын

Also, around 38:13 of the video, I show how I just detached the front exhaust manifold from the front head. I didn't need to remove the front manifold from the car in order to do this job. The rear exhaust manifold is a different story. The rear exhaust manifold gets taken out of the car while it is still attached to the rear head.