Def waterproof the heck out of it

Put bug screens up under the deck.

No because the white roof screws are at the top of valleys and the water will flow via the bottom valley area. The panels are "W" shaped with the roof installed so the valleys are running from the high end of the roof to lower end so the water flows downhill via being in the bottom of the valleys. Said another way: The screws go up through the tops of the "V's" of the "W" and the water flows in the bottom "V's" of the "W". So the roof is WWWWWWWW.

It's "ghetto"

I used these vinyl U-Style gutters from Menard's. I selected them because my roof is low and I needed the lowest profile gutters I could find. www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/gutters-accessories/gutters/kp-u-snap-trade-4-x-10-vinyl-gutter/k31b00/p-1444437112311-c-12506.htm

Ack, I'm sorry to hear that! There should be no engine error codes after the replacement. You may need to check for an additional issue. Check that all the connectors are secure and wiring is in good shape. Hopefully you didn't get a bad controller. Someone should make a more robust aftermarket fan controller. These seem to have a lot of problems.

@@capnfixit1222 Autozone now carries an aftermarket Fan Control Motor, it is from Santech, "Santech Engine Cooling Fan Module MT4100" available for $110. GM also carries a similar Fan Control Module now for the HHR under part #25845280 available on Amazon for $125. I still have the issue with the MIL and I ordered another Ford Module off EBay and hopefully it will work, if not, I will try the Santech module and let you know.

​@@conkeeper Hey what was the result? Getting the same code and wondering if I should try swapping for the santech one.

Excellent. Were you able to get it replaced? What tool did you use to squeeze in the small space and get the mounting screws out?

Great call out - I'm just about to do mine and that's a simple step that will save me frustration on the reinstall and a ton of time when I have to do this a 3rd time 7 years later!

I have not noticed any. Admittedly, it goes mostly ignored through the winter and I haven't inspected it. Good question though!

Good observation. I must get some water down the walls, but it hasn't bothered me. Overall just thrilled to have the majority of the underdeck area dry from rain. Let us know if someone has a good solution for sealing the edges of the deck/underdeck ceiling along the house.

Cool. I hope you figured out a way to do it!

Yes! Great purpose for it!

Oh excellent! I'm glad you were able to replace the module and save money.

HI i write from Italy. do you have a link where I can buy it?

YEEEES! That's great to hear! Thanks for sharing.

Great comments! Thanks. I feel good about the wire-to-wire solder connection being robust for the long term, but you're right in that removing the PCB and soldering the leg through the back would be the best way to do it. Also, I imagine that insulation on one leg of the capacitor is to protect against a short if something should break loose inside the switch and rattle around until it found itself shorting across the capacitor legs. That manufacturer design choice might have been required for them to get U.L. or some other safety certification of their product. So again, the best thing would be to put that capacitor leg insulator back exactly like it was. Let us know if you pull your PCBs and make the repairs by soldering the legs in the PCB. Thanks!

@@capnfixit1222 I'm not 100% sure about all Insteon models out there, but quite a few have a transistor riveted to a heatsink which makes removal of the PCB more difficult. You may find yourself drilling out the rivet so you can access the underside, and then popping a new rivet back on when done. I've got 3-4 dead Insteons in storage now, and another one just died (a 6-button KPL) that's in a critical location, and of course even if I wanted to shell out $$ for a new one, they're entirely unavailable right now, so cap repairs are in my future. Fortunately (or unfortunately?) I had to replace the caps on an Insteon PLM a while back (a common occurrence), so I ordered a set of 5 replacement caps for each of the common sizes. Thanks for filming this. Even though I've done it once before on the PLM, I thought I'd refresh myself on the process, specifically for switches. The tip about just cutting the old one out and soldering to the legs (for the large 47uf) is interesting... I may try that out. The other, smaller 10uf caps can't be done that way, but it all depends on which cap I suspect may be bad. Another good tip for testing out a switch that is not installed is to take an old 3-prong extension cord, cut the socket off and strip the wires back. You have what we called in electronics school a "suicide cord" which is a good reminder to be VERY careful. But that way you can use wire nuts (while unplugged) to wire to a switch, then plug it into a socket and test functionality. Remember to cap the switched power from the switch since, if your fix works, it will be hot during testing. Saves time if you need to keep tweaking things or replace additional parts so you're not having to remove from the wall again.

Insteon is kinda known for going cheap with their components. Too bad, as their switches are great and more programmable than most other zwave, wifi or zigbee products. Doing it this wat (reusing the existing cap's leads) is actually a good idea, as you risk destroying the PCB's throughhole pads when completely removing the old leads. That is a real mess. Final note - when replacing these caps it's a good practice to use a replacement with a higher voltage rating than the original. Insteon tends to put in the bare minimum to save costs; when repairing things it's worth it to upgrade so you don't have to do it again. So you might also want to consider getting your caps from a reputable online supplier like mouser and choose known brands like panasonic rather then whatever Amazon is going to throw at you :-)

Oh man. I'm sorry to hear! Thinking about it, replacing this module seems like a reasonable thing to try. Have you tried Googling your symptoms to see if anyone has pointed towards this module? Also, the Solstice Forum has a lot of knowledgeable people in it. www.solsticeforum.com/. Let us know what you find out!

Thanks! I went on Ebay and bought one for 16 dollars, and the can be used on a crown vic? That's weird. But when it comes and o swap it out I'll message ya, and if it fixes it I will make a KZbin on it giving you all the credit but mine will be geared to change it if your fan WONT shut off

@@terryhites1 Awesome. I hope it works!

I am glad this helped! Nice work.

No I didn't. You know what, if I remember correctly, the appliance store had a core charge on that board so I had to return the old board to them. So, someone is fixing and reusing them!

@@capnfixit1222 that isnt uncommon. I often find boards with a desoldered point from current flow. Repairing that is simple...and a lot cheaper. Finding bad semi conductors and replacing them is much more difficult.

Ah! Clever! Front serviceable would sure beat un-wedging my refrigerator from between the counter and wall to pull it out. That was one of the hardest parts of the fix.

It was a tube of glue that came with the new toilet paper roll holder. I'm sorry to say that I do not know what kind it was.

Excellent. Let us know how it goes!

I have not! I did have a bird build a nest in the gutter under there. It is probably time for some check-ups on how things are going under the panels.