Yes, it is called a ‘drying grid’ and is located at a marina, so has fresh water and electricity. The boat sits happily on her keel, very slightly leaning in toward the dock. With the tide we generally get 5-6h to do the work, which is fine for a jet-wash.

@@Gi1e5 wow I guess it still takes a location with a very large swing tide. But yes what a useful feature of a marina.

Nope

No, you do not need to drain the engine oil before removing the pump

Good question. We left it 14 days, but that wasn’t to let it cure, that was just what worked for our schedule. The cure rate is dependent on temperature and at 15 degrees, it is ‘immersion’ dry after 18h. We gave it a light sand the day before applying CC.

Removing the pump is easy, it is the reverse of fitting it - which I show on the video around 5:02. The only thing to watch out for is any wires connected to any of the three retaining bolts, as on my boat, the electrics for everything were grounded through the engine and connected to that point.

Hi, we used 150mm damp proof membrane (from screwfix.com - part#78665), it came in a roll of 30m length which was perfect - we stuck it on with electrical tape, which worked ok, you could use (good quality) gaffa tape - but don’t be tempted to use cheaper gaffa tape as that sometimes leaves a sticky residual which is a pain to remove!

Hi, green is good, it means the copper is reacting.

The performance of coppercoat all depends on how it is applied and activated. I’m 100% happy with its performance. Note however I don’t sail around the world, so have not tried it in warmer waters than the south coast of the UK.

Hi, I didn’t notice it not being flush. I think I would have noticed when I ran the razor blade over to clean the gasket surface. Check the shaft is in the correct place and that there is no dirt behind the back plate. Let us know how you get on…

Isopropyl Alcohol is what is supplied by Coppercoat for thinning, one company suggested using water to thin (since Coppercoat is water based!) but we have not tried that. Concerning over coating time, for us, I can tell you that 2 hours was too much and 30 mins was OK. You just want to get it on as quickly as possible. On the video you can see that it changes colour from light pink, and we found that as soon as it changes colour you can apply the next coat, in my tests this was as soon as 5 minutes. Hope this helps!

Yes it didn’t start easily did it - but it wasn’t the governor spring - it was my starting procedure that was wrong.. These engines have a special method for starting when cold. You have to set the throttle open ( at least half, but I’ve found somewhere around 3/4 to be best) and then pull the stop handle (and push it back in) before starting. This supplies extra fuel by overriding the injection pumps governor, allowing the fuel injection ‘rack’ to go beyond the normal maximum fuel setting for cold starting. It works really well, and our engine always starts within 3 to 5 seconds even in very cold weather.

The ‘smoke’ was steam, because of the seaweed blockage. The engine is now being cooled ok. There is still some light smoke when it starts, but after a run at high revs it is not noticeable.

I used a bit of copper plumbing tube and a vice to press the bearing on to the shaft. What I actually did was to press the first bearing on enough to get the spacer and the second bearing on, however once both the bearings were on I was struggling to push both the bearings to the correct position together. I ended up taking it to a friends garage and using his hydraulic press to get them in the correct position. Next time I would press the first bearing on and get that to the exact position, then add the spacer and the second bearing.

@@Gi1e5 Great, thanks... I just replaced the seals now...I had a small drip, so this should fix that. If not, I will replace the whole pump...found it for about $250, Johnson pump. You have access to some other good tools, which help. Good job on the video!

The kit was already on the boat, so I’m not sure how old it was. part number = 876756-9 Renoverningssats Overhault Kit.

@@Gi1e5 Great...Thanks!

No just an amount to allow oil to flow

To press the bearing on to the shaft I used a bit of copper plumbing tube and a vice. What I actually did was to press the first bearing on enough to get the spacer and the second bearing on, however once both the bearings were on I was struggling to push both the bearings to the correct position together. I ended up taking it to a friends garage and using his hydraulic press to get them in the correct position. Next time I would press the first bearing on and get that to the exact position, then add the spacer and the second bearing. It is very important to press the bearings on from the correct side. You don’t want to damage the shaft where the seals go, so press the bearings on from the other side (the side without the slot.)

@@Gi1e5 I ended up using a bearing puller bought on amazon, was unexpensive and easier than what I thought. Thanks!

PaudolphyGmail - well done - did you use the bearing puller to put the bearings back onto the shaft as well? Does it pull the bearings from the outer ring or is it able to pull it from the inner ring?

@@Gi1e5 I bought a big whasher that covered the whole bearing, the puller was pressing the whasher and the whasher pressed both the inner and outer ring at the same time. I put one bearing in the right position, then the spacer and finally the other, both with the same procedure.

cant get the whole pump anymore in the engine :( its like to big the whole pump :(

Thank you for the video and for the comment. My question, how do you apply this pressure? Do you need a special tool? Thanks

@@PaudolphyGmail Hi. Yes you kinda sorta need a special tool which can be as simple as a piece of pipe who's diameter is slightly less than the outside dismeter of the bearing you are installing. A socket can often be used. The point is to apply pressure only to the outer race of the bearing. If the bearing fit in the housing isn't too tight, light hammer blows can be used to install the bearing. Make sure though that the bearing goes in straight. If light hammer blows are insufficient to seat the bearing then a arbor press or a hydraulic press are required.

Hi, the problem here could be that since there are two bearings you can only do the procedure you explained in one of them, am I missing something?

The two bearings are separated by a spacer on the shaft, so pressing on the outer race would apply the exact same forces to both of the bearings as pressing on the shaft since the force would be transmitted through the shaft, the only difference being that the force on the upper bearing would be in the opposite direction. This happens because the force needed to move the lower bearing would be transmitted through the upper bearing to the shaft, then through the lower bearing to move the outer ring of that bearing. The two bearings are separated by a spacer only on the shaft so there is no other way of inserting this. I did check with Golden Arrow (our Volvo Penta dealers) to see if there was another method but this was the method they suggested. A year on and the bearings are still working fine.

@@Gi1e5 That’s what I thought, my local volvo penta dealers said your procedure was fine. Thanks.

I thought she added a little "sexy" to a potentially boring video 🤷‍♂️

very!