I really like them. They ride great. If I could, I would have gotten the tan wall version. These were also cheaper, $28 each.

I think you can put them on the rear. The fork probably doesn't have enough room around the axle for pegs to fit without hitting the fork legs.

@@aaronbehindbars aight thanks

That is not such a simple question to answer, at least without a little more information. You do need a bit of mechanical aptitude plus the right tools to make the job easier. It also makes a difference if your bike is designed for a dropper post and if it already has provisions to route the dropper post cable. I am guessing that if you are asking this question, you might have some doubts that you can do it yourself. I suggest looking at some videos on how to install a dropper post to get an idea of the process. Then, you may be better informed as to whether you should attempt it yourself. Also, there are some droppers that are super easy to install: 1.) Electronic dropper posts don't have any cables to run. If you can set up a pair of wireless headphones with your smart phone, you can probably handle one of these. Downside: you have to keep a battery charged and they're very expensive. 2.) Non-remote lever droppers have the actuator lever right under the nose of the saddle since it's built into the seatpost. It functions like the height adjustment on an office chair. The downside is that you have to take your hand off your handlebar everytime you raise and lower the seat. Hope that helps.

@@lukebulmer9254 It's even nicer now thanks to the new owner I sold it last year before I moved. You can check it out on Instagram: instagram.com/p/C2nS9QbOtLx/?igsh=MWY2a2g4MGlyZ3I0aA==

Less than ideal, but the stock derailleur it comes with has a plastic knuckle, so that'll probably bend/break without doing too much damage to the hanger. You can still tweak an integrated hanger a couple of times without breaking it. The hanger on these are pretty beefy and given the bike isn't really intended to be slamming over rocks (despite the name Rockrider), it's not likely to be an issue.

@@aaronbehindbars so do we loose the derailleur if the plastic knuckle breaks ? can we replace the plastic knuckle on the derailleur ? what happens of we use shimano derailleur in the future on st100 without hanger?

@@shsrm3 The original derailleur is a very inexpensive unit. It likely would break or bend beyond repair. I have found Microshift derailleurs for under 20 dollars on Amazon. If you switch to a Shimano unit, it would possibly be more durable, but I expect a similar result of it still bending or breaking. You probably don't want too durable of a derailleur as it might transfer more of an impact into the hanger which increases the risk breaking the hanger off. Replaceable hangers are primarily to prevent catastrophic damage to the derailleur, but to also protect the frame from such damage. It's a cheap bike, so don't expect pro-level performance. I'd keep it running with budget level parts. No need to overthink all of this.

That's great! Did you buy yours when they were on sale for $98?

@@aaronbehindbars yes, put lots of hard miles on it , worth every penny

​@@timjudshore6907When you commented on my other video, you mentioned it "self-destructed." What went wrong?

@@aaronbehindbars spokes started breaking ,and stiffing of cables ,

It is not serviceable. You'll need a new shock. I'd recommend an air shock. You need a 190x50 eyelet shock to fit this frame.

@@aaronbehindbars Wow what a waste of materials then, the shock was alright while it worked as intended for about a year and after it broke. Thank you for your reply

@@aaronbehindbars Hello, one more question, if I put a shorter or longer would it affect the frame too much? I mostly use my bike to do wheelies around town and stuff so not much actual mtb stuff, is it alright if i put let's say a 180mm instead of 190mm?

@@xBorisD It might be ok. When I upgraded mine to an air shock, I purchased what I thought was a 190mm shock, but the description was wrong and it was actually 200mm. That ended up working out ok. It raised the rear of the bike by a few mm, but not enough to make a difference. Lowering the rear end might be ok, but you'd need to be aware that your cranks are also lower to the ground. Possibly a bigger issue is if there is any interference between parts of the rear suspension/tire/frame when your shick is at full compression. That may not be an issue if you have a shock with a shorter stroke, but then you'll have reduced wheel travel. Ultimately, any changes you make probably would void any warranty and would not be recommended by the manufacturer. They did spend a lot of time engineering and testing the design of the bike. Hope that helps.

@@TK-OK You have one of the later production bikes where they changed some things. I believe your handlebars are aluminum whereas mine are steel.

​@@aaronbehindbars 👍 I would have preferred the early version like yours instead of the latest

​@@aaronbehindbarsis it really the newer version im having a hard time believing it mine came looking how he described it and it says made 2021

It was some sort of overstock/clearance deal. They were sold by a third party discounter and no longer available. AFAIK, this bike is no longer for sale in the US.

@aaronbehindbars thanks for the clarification and the informative vid.

Well said.

This bike is the XL.

It plugs into some sort of emissions/charcoal canister. It follows the stock vent hose routing. That's all I can tell you at this point. I sold the bike 2-3 year ago, so I can't go look at it to see what's what.

@@aaronbehindbars I bought the bike with the ims tank, it has the little pig tail and I want you to put the stock vent back on, just trying to figure out where it plugs into, thanks

It may end up in one someday. I will likely donate this and some of my other bikes in 25-30+ years when I move out of my hose into either a nomadic life, smaller house, or nursing facility.

That makes me feel even better about my purchase. I love hearing from folks who have a connection to the things I am posting. Once, I put pictures of a vintage road bike in a facebook group and the guy who did the paint for that builder saw it and told me about what he did. I am also happy to hear the folks at Devinci stay well-caffeinated! Thanks for watching!

@@gassousti91. There should be a preload knob on the top of left side fork leg. You turn it clockwise to increase preload (spring stiffness).

@@jefflapitan2091 No, it wouldn't work. You might be able to fit a medium width 700c hybrid size wheel/tire, but it probably won't work with a 29er tire. Unfortunately, I am unable to verify as I no longer have this bike.

@@aaronbehindbars got it. Still thanks for responding. May i know what happened to it? Had issues?

@@jefflapitan2091 This would wotk well for that type of use. This bike is really only intended for very easy trails, so the fact that it handled more advanced trails means it's a solid bike that should hold up well to everyday use.

@@aaronbehindbars Now im decided to get this since there's a good deal for it in Decathlon here in my area. Thanks Aaroon! Ride safe. 💪

@@Deeksithnaidu letmegooglethat.com/?q=How+much+is+a+stebel+nautilus%3F

Yep! Makes no sense, right? Or, you could look at it as having a really fun full suspension for under $1000. This bike originally retailed for $800 and this one is arguably way better for about the same cost. I also look at the potential to repurpose these upgraded parts on another bike in the future. Bike parts are a little like Legos in that you can take stuff apart and put it back together with different stuff. This is a hobby (playing with bikes and making crummy youtube videos). I have a little bit of disposable income that I choose to blow on bike related stuff.

It’s not 200 anymore, the only ones available are from decathlon Canada for around 550 usd, even at 550 i think it’s a very solid bike and worth all the upgrade

@@annex6 I haven't ridden the new Ozark Trail gravel bike, but it looked reasonably well made when I pulled one off the rack at my local Walmart. I'm inclined to say to get that bike. The Nazz is similar enough to the Eagle Ridge to say it's probably not worth the effort. In stock form, it's not great. Modded like mine ended up, it was ok. It might be worth looking for something like a used Poseidon. Those seem like pretty good bikes.

@aaronbehindbars thank you. Yeah I'm not hearing good stuff. Even the Hyper Spinfit sounds like a better option.

Not so much a tire choice, but what I already had laying around. I was going to mount the Goodyears I have on the stock wheels, but simply got lazy and just tossed these wheels and tires on. They work better than expected! Funny thing about the dropper is it is the same weight as the stock seatpost which is made of steel. The only added weight there was the dropper lever, cable, and housing. Sure, I coukd drop a good chunk of weight if I used an aluminum rigid seatpost, but dropper posts have become a necessity for me.

Bummer! What side, gears or no gears?

@@aaronbehindbars left side. But upgrading the whole set would be nice. So this doesn't happen again.

Same thing happen to me, fell off the road....on left side...

What did you buy to replace?

Just like the number of licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Tootsie Pop, the world may never know!

Thank you for the compliment. Like some folks, I don't paarticularly like the sound of my voice. It certainly id distinctive. When I did social media videos for a local business, a lot of people would recognize my voice when I was talking to them in person and a few people even said I had a voice for radio. I certainly have the face for radio, too! I've been mountain biking for 22 years now. I'm still uncertain if I'll ever be any good at it, but I do indeed enjoy it!

That's a great question! The narrow handlebar with the long stem is going to be terribly uncomfortable for me and I know this bike is going to ride horribly with that stiff 1-1/8" rigid fork. It's displayed on the wall of my home office and likely to remain there for the next 20-30 years. Last year, I picked up a late 80's Reflex ALX89 which was built by Raleigh using the same Easton E9 tubing, but in smaller diameters and the bike has a 1" curved/tapered leg fork. Even that bike rides a little harsh and buzzy, but has my preferred geometry of taller/wider bars with a shorter reach. It's a good around town sorta bike.

@@aaronbehindbars On the wall sounds good for this survivor! I agree the geometry of those old bikes was terrible. My old one has gotten a higher stack, shorter stem, and wide riser bars. It's a big improvement.

I wouldn't recommend a downhill fork for this bike. I'd stick with something close to the stock 120mm travel. I shot an update video showing the new fork I installed, but optednot to upload it because I didn't like how the video turned out. I need to do one more upgrade and then I'll do a finished project video to wrap it up.

Mmmmaybe....

The spacers should swap right over. I thought about the Raidon shock. I really like SR Suntour stuff. It's built well and you can get service parts gor them. I sort of expect this DNM to be a disposable item.

I bought it impulsively. I like the idea of the fork and rear shock brands to match (SR Suntour). I don't plan to do any other upgrades.