Haha yea it's pretty bad

I'm not sure. You'll have to open up the basket and see if your pressure plate has numbers or letters on it. Will either have, letters, numbers, or roman numerals. I don't think the 2015 had a Belleville spring type clutch. But pressure plate might still be adjustable

O ring

Im pretty sure, unless they were maybe defective from the factory. I bought the bike new and had this drag issue from hour 0 all the way through I think hour 20 or 30. Which is when I made the change and it had been all good ever since. I think a lot of ktm are just like this and I feel people who are doing non-technical riding might not notice it. For me I do a lot of slow hard enduro type riding. So important that when I'm stuck I can hold the clutch in and not have the bike stall.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4eqgKmXetR1fdEsi=Xm3A9X_STZgJM9gl

That video is long and needs couple updates, but covers most of it. I did a lot of work that I think all contributed to it running clean. Its been running good for about 80+ hours now, although I do think its time to clean the CCPS sensor and/or get a fresh one. I think the important pieces to focus on for starting off are the CCPS Sensor / CCPS hose connections + idle mod. That does the trick for most people. Full List of Mods: Right now I'm running a simplified CCPS sensor connection (hose directly to sensor) with better clamps, new oem CCPS and AIR sensors, Two Stroke Performance Injector Relocation Kit with their ECU mapping, Idle mod screw, vforce reeds, new CCPS brass hose nipple threaded into the cylinder head with high temp thread sealant (my original brass nippple cracked and I dont know if it was cracked all along/leaking, but eventually it broke off). I also converted bike to pre-mix (after installing injector reloc kit), added high comp head, fmf fatty and powercore muffler (originally I had fmf with spark arrestor, unsure if that caused issues - stock bike comes without arrestor so when with fmf without spark arrestor) . Once all of this was installed, I basically tried to set my idle screw as low as it could go without tripping the check engine light (if you set idle too low, the TPS sensor says voltage too low - bike will still run but you have blinking engine light constantly).

Exactly what I did, TSP ECU, high comp head, fmf fatty and power core, vforce reeds, and injector relocator kit running premix at 65:1. Also modified the ccps hose connection. Been running great since then

Nice!

oh hell yas ima try this tomorrow its been a headache @@sundaymorningrides9142

I finally got it working. I basically had to replace ECU and injection system with non-oem after market upgrades and modify ccps sensor connection. Two stroke performance ECU and injection system and my own design for the the ccps sensor

I 100% agree with you. I had to dump alot of money and time into this bike and a lot of people did shoot me down

Im working on it

Not sure what you mean which cylinder, just stock cylinder for a 22". Piston is a vertex and head is an s3. Plastics are Acerbis with just a graphics kit I grabbed off Amazon

@@sundaymorningrides9142 Ktm typically uses an Elko cylinder which is an Austrian company I believe. During the supply chain crisis, they used Taiwanese Kymco cylinders on some bikes. Our 22xc has one and it runs poorly at low rpm plus pipe bangs fiercely. Ccps sensors are new. I'm thinking of tearing it down and checking squish clearance, deck height etc.

@@hereare2swords866 That's good to know. Thanks. How do you know which one you have or how can you confirm?

@@sundaymorningrides9142 On the side of of cylinder barrel is a logo approx 1/2" long maybe. Kymco is a "K" with an oval around it and the Elko I believe spells out "elko".

I agree, if it ran good originally. I just ran out of ideas and figured if I added more tuneability to the bike, I might be able to resolve. I'm about to try the TSP injector kit with their map and also I moved back to an exhaust without a spark arrestor. So I'll have a video on those results soon

I am doing pre-mix now, this is an older video. I went premix when I did top end and pulled the oil pump at that time. I didn't know the injectors worked like that in a stock setup. I know that when you have the new TPS split injector system and their ECU mapping they have unique phasing like that where only one fires until necessary. they specifically say that with the stock setup, pooling can occur for the reason you mentioned. So based on that, I feel like the stock setup should be firing both. Can I ask where you heard that from? In any case, I just installed the TSP split IRK system with their ECU map. I'll be trying it out hopefully very soon and doing a review. I want this channel to be all about sharing info and knowledge. So I appreciate your input/ comments

@@sundaymorningrides9142 ya I came across a video of TSP, “two stroke performance” out of Australia they mentioned the injectors as to how they worked in the stoke set up and when installing their injection system making sure the wires are connected properly because the right injector dosent squirt all the time.

Possibly, but If it was bent steels, had to come from the factory like that as it was happening new from 0 hrs onward. But Holding a flat edge on each of the plates and didn't see any gaps. Changing to different hole set worked well

Some other video I caught, I believe it was two stroke performance maybe. But I Also confirmed myself, with the stock ECU system - if you go too far below that value, the TPS sensor throws an error and you get blink codes that correlate to "low voltage" if you look them up. It's a none issue if you have GET ECU and ability to calibrate or zero out the TPS

@@sundaymorningrides9142 580 to 600 is the range. Most are around 590.

@@DirtRider6512 yep, think mine seems to do pretty well at 585

It's a tough call. I think fuel and oil injection is superior when it works right. Super buttery smooth and responsive. My gripe with KTM is they give you absolutely NO way to tune these bikes from the factory. So you cannot change fuel, oil, timing, etc. You can't even change the darn idle from the factory. So if you get stuck with a funky running bike like I did, you're kinda screwed. Not to mention the whole ccps sensor thing. Definitely something screwy there. They go bad way too often. Now that I have the bike running good, I am happy with it. But keep in mind, I pretty much completely rebuilt all fueling aspects of the bike and totally different ECU and maps. With the suspension dialed in and engine tuned properly with no malfunctioning sensors it's an awesome bike. But, to answer your question. I'll be seriously looking at Beta and Sherco when it's time for an upgrade. At least with those bikes you can easily tune or even drop in a smart carb. In any case, I'll be riding this bike for at least another year. And will keep an eye on the XCW in 2024. In the meantime, just keep crossing my fingers that the bike continues to run good

@@sundaymorningrides9142 I’d buy a new te if they switched to tbi but not going to buy a new one this year & then lose out when I trade in for a 24. I’d buy a xc but hate the air forks. I might go with Beta for now or a 17-18 te

@@rhouser1280 totally agree with the xc and the air forks. Hopefully TBI comes to the XCW and TE in 2024

Glad to hear it

I agree. I do feel it runs cleaner if you rev her out and Keep it cleared out. Mine is a TBI now with injector kit and I'm running premix. A Recent upgrade after doing the top end. So far I'm happy with it. Now that I have all of the kinks worked out. Not crazy about the ccps sensor setup on these bikes, but oh well. TPS makes a ccps relocation kit I'm considering.

That's good to hear! I haven't been on a bike for years and my kawasaki 250 I had was an awesome bike and many years later I figured I'd try one out again and being the 2023 ktm I figured I'd give it a shot and it gave very similar issues, like I said it's been good so far but I'm sure I'll get some of those stupid issues again, but the ride of it is amazing to be honest, well hopefully your continue to enjoy it man! I for sure am gonna do that sensor tray upgrade you mentioned, that's a must 👍

It's pretty dam near the same. I want to say at 1 it was slightly easier pull. But it's so close, I really can't tell

@Allfush the clutch pull will be slightly lighter on setting 1. can cause clutch slip though as you're reducing pressure on the clutch plates

@@danhopkinson2811 yea, I definitely wouldn't suggest doing it simply to achieve an easier pull. Only reason I did it was because I had substantial drag to the point of stalling the bike. so clearly the clutch plates / drive plates weren't separating far enough on my bike for whatever reason. If you have no drag at all and everything is operating within spec, but you still moved it to setting 1 - I'm sure there would probably be some slippage.

@@sundaymorningrides9142 what oil are you using in the bike? mine is the 19 tpi 250 and takes the same oil in the transmission as the 4 strokes use in the engine

@@danhopkinson2811 I tried all different sorts when I was having the issues initially. Didn't matter if it was motorex 15w-50 or any other. I've been running Amsoil 10w-50 Dirt with good results

I have mine running decent now after dumping tons of money and time in to it. It's a shame, because it really could/should be a phenomenal bike. Almost made me go back to a 4t!

@@sundaymorningrides9142 I wasn’t willing to go down the path of spending even more money, just to have it run “normal” I do a ton of slower technical single track, 4T get way too hot. Newer carb 2T are basically perfect. The bike that replaced the KTM came from the factory pretty rich. It still didn’t foul the plug, had good power, etc. Just got it jetted and it’s obviously even better. Glad to hear you got it running good! Not sure I’ll ever venture away from a carb on a 2T

@@sarahdell4042I don't blame you, I just didn't want to take a hit on selling it. But after all the time and money, I should have just did what you did. I do hard enduros and lot of slow stuff as well. Definitely cannot replace that style of riding with a 4t. Would be nice to have as a second bike tho!

@@sundaymorningrides9142 Luckily with the crazy market, the hit wasn’t terrible and I got a good price on the Rieju. Multiple bikes is always the answer though!

Haha nice. No, she didn't my mom's dead. This video is a year old, you need to see the other videos. I was able to fix all my issues, bike is great now

I tried all sorts of different lubes early on as well as bleeding the system, made no difference. The spring was still within spec when moved to screw 1, so there shouldn't be any issues. I rode it like that for the next 100+ hours of riding. Probably about 15 to races, 2 hard enduros on it without any problems. In any case, it's moved it back to screw 2 and now and still seems good. If anything maybe defective parts like you mentioned. Because I tried everything early on. Making that adjustment was only thing that worked

Yea Definitely most of the bikes seem to be fine. I have many other bikes that are perfectly fine as well. A small percentage of bikes with issues, but still plenty enough where you can easily find tons of people on the web with the same issues. Mines all fixed now tho anyways. There were other videos after this. Combination of bad ccps sensor and defective ccps connection at the cylinder base in addition to some ecu changes.

I'm still running the stock 13-52. I got into riding a lot more gnarly slow stuff and I think this gearing is pretty good for that. 2nd and 3rd gear is really luggable and I use them a a lot on single track as well. I know what you mean though, for a while I was thinking about changing my gearing. For regular riding, 1st gear is almost not even useable. But I just spent some more time with the 13/52 and it grew on me. I can still see some benefit to maybe a 13-50 if all you do is open / flowy / faster stuff. I have a 50 that I might try for the next hare scramble or traditional enduro. The hard enduro's - 13/52 all the way!

@@williamnewton5402 nice. I’ve only taken it on one ride so far so I need more seat time to decide. I’ve heard a few people do 12-52 to help with the steep stuff. Definitely would like a 13-50 in a hare scramble.

@@southeastAF nice, yea overall I'm pretty happy with the 13/52 for what I've been riding. I've got about 8 races in this year all over the place from Hare's, Traditional, and two Hard's. It did pretty well. I've been through the ringer with various issues on this bike - so let me know if you run into any problems. I likely have already run into to it

@@williamnewton5402 cool will do! Definitely think I need to do the idle mod to bring the idle up a bit.

all good, thanks for the six minutes. will try to do it less American next time