Agreed. I've been around a long time and it is by far the most difficult of all the slide systems, with the training information very sloppy.

In this scenario you will want to be prepared to have something outside (i.e. jacks and 2x4s) ready to help support the room, once you are able to push it out. If you can loosen the chain and cable adjustments to the right and left of the motor assembly, the chains can be taken off the sprocket of the gearbox to allow you to manually push the room out.

Right next to the user panel there is a rubber plug that can be removed to access the 3/8" square drive override. Can you turn this with a ratchet or a breaker bar or is this seized up as well? This could mean that the coupler from the motor to the drive screw is cracked or shattered, making the motor amp out.

The jack does work under a separate 12v power supply. I replaced the control box and it’s working again. Do you all repair control boards? Pretty sure it’s the relays for the tongue jack part.

@@abullarddesha12ify Unfortunately, we do not repair the control boards.

Yes, it is the same process on the Double Back.

Unfortunately we do not have a spare tire carrier that two (2) tires can mount to, due to the capacity and weight.

The wipe seal can be replaced without removing the jambs from the rough opening. Here are the instructions: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/Exact-Slide-Wipe-Seal-Installation-Instructions.pdf

There are a couple of ways to go about this process. Keep in mind that you will need to take safety precautions and use something to support the room once you are able to start extending it, such as rolling jacks with stacked 2x4s or a forklift. -One method, if you can reach them with the room retracted, is to loosen the 3 points of adjustment on each of the adjustment brackets to put slack in the cables and chains, in order to remove the chains from the gearbox sprocket. -Another method would be to disconnect the interior cables from the standoff brackets behind the interior decorative fascia, then use needle-nose vice grips to pull the exterior cables out of the exterior standoff brackets.

Yes

Oddly enough our technical staff was just talking about this subject in the office last week. It is a common misconception or terminology mistake that the numbers along the edge of the tension gauge are lbs., but they are, in fact, a setting on the scale. The gauge measure tension over a range of approximately 5% to 25% of the breaking strength of the cable and provides an accuracy of + or - 5%. The bottom interior cable, when the room is retracted, should be set to 20 on the scale, which is approximately 140 lbs on the PT-1 Model. When you can maintain the bottom tension (Scale = 20) after cycling the room 3 times with the top interior cable loose, then you will tension the top cable to 10 on the scale.

@@NorcoIndustries Thank you Norco for the swift response, it completely answered my question. I will use my Loos tension gauge to set my cables according to the SCALE readings of 20 bottom and 10 top.

The popping sound is the excessive chain slack that is trapped between the top pulley and motor sprocket. When we make slide adjustments, real estate is always the biggest challenge. Often the vertical decorative trim/fascia and backer board have to be removed in order for us to access the cables.

@NorcoIndustries thank you. Sounds like an expensive Fix. All that labor

@@NorcoIndustries i do appreciate your comment and help. I'm just frustrated.

@@johnnywalker5635 Most customers our Technical Support Team work with do the adjustment themselves if they have the tools and the desire. The actual process takes about 15 minutes once you have access.

There is a controller that operates each slide room. Each has a dedicated 30 amp breaker and wiring by the RV OEM. After confirming that the breaker has not tripped for the kitchen slide, then you will want to locate where the slide control is located. The RV OEM is the best resource to help you locate where they install them. If you have already located the controllers, you could swap the wires from the controller to the bedroom or living room with the kitchen slide controller to see if that solves the problem. Our technical support team would be happy to help you troubleshoot further and potentially assist you without making a trip to a service center. They can be reached at [email protected] or 877-557-7788.

As long the room is fully extended and you can reach the adjustment brackets with your tools, the front fascia can stay on. Each adjustment bracket has three points of adjustment (the two cables and the chain). If you can loosen the chain coupler to get some slack, this will slacken both cables at the same time.

It is not necessary to remove the weight inside the RV when tensioning the cables. There are several ways to perform an adjustment depending on room travel and weight. If a room has more than 24 inches of travel it’s best to note the distance of adjustment required and then bring the room in 6 to 10 inches before making the adjustment. This will help relieve pressure on the cables making it much easier to turn the adjustment nuts. 1. Before tightening an adjustment nut, make sure the opposing cable has enough slack to allow for the take-up. The opposing cable is the one that has the same corner location but on the opposite side of the wall i.e. (IN Top vs. OUT Top) 2. Tighten the appropriate nut(s) to accomplish the proper seal. 3. Tension the opposing cables until there is enough slack to freely move the cables up and down at least 1 inch overall. 4. When the system is adjusted, tighten all jamb nuts and replace anti-vibration blocks. In a situation where there are not enough adjustment threads in a cable or chain stud, use the following procedure: 1. Position the room 1 - 2 inches from full outward extension. 2. Turn both chain nuts on the side affected counterclockwise until there is 2 inches of thread showing on both studs. 3. Re-position the cable adjustment nuts to the end of the cable studs. 4. Remove the chain from the sprocket and move the required links to balance the amount of difference in take-up, reconnect chain to sprocket. 5. Take up slack in the chains and cables and re-adjust.

I believe you are referring to the adjustment bracket. Click on this link to confirm that this is the part you are needing: balrvproducts.com/product/22504-cable-chain-adjustment-bracket-kit/

Jack pads or wood blocks are recommended when parked on an uneven surface or soft sub grade. Having a solid and level foundation for your jacks will help prevent damage to the jacks.

The top exterior cables are the only "spring loaded" cables in the assembly. As long as the room seals when it is retracted and extended, it is not necessary to make any adjustment. If the exterior top cable is visibly drooping when the room is extended, the adjustment procedure in the video should remove that slack.

By feel is the best method. With the room fully retracted, after the BTM and TOP OUT cables are tensioned to the point that the standoff brackets are making contact with the jamb, then the IN cables can be tightened to eliminate the slack. The IN cables will move about 1/2" from center or 1" overall movement.

The only time that air injection should be used is for short 8-10 second blasts while the motor is running, and flush is in progress and purging the lines of fluid after machine is shut off. The air injection is only used during the flush to break up blockages. For Tech support on the GTEC Flusher call 800-303-5874. Ext 2310

To confirm that the motor is bad, I would recommend pulling the black and red wires out of the top of the channel and apply direct power to them with an alternate power source. Some people take the battery pack off their 12v power tools and touch the wires to the contact pads on the battery. Then reverse the wires to operate it in the other direction. This is actually a faster confirmation test than using the manual override tool provided with the RV. If you have confirmed that the motor will not work with alternate power, then it will be necessary to contact our technical support team for recommendations at [email protected] for some tips on the best course of action.

After you have tried to apply direct power to the red and black motor wires, to ensure that it is the motor and not the controller, if one side will not extend, then you will have to disconnect the cables at the interior and exterior standoff brackets in order to push the room out. If you need more detailed instructions please email [email protected].

We use the LOOS PT-1. www.velasailingsupply.com/loos-tension-professional-gauge-pt-1/

@@NorcoIndustries thank you for the link

When reinstalling the jambs, often the pre-punched holes will align with the original screw holes in the side wall of the RV. You can use the same holes, as long as they are not stripped out.

We created a reinforcement plate for the wall to use in the event the standoff brackets are deflecting. Click here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6W5e5eEirdpj7s

Super easy really happy with the results. I think it looks cleaner

We would recommend following the sound to confirm if that sound is coming from the bottom or the right or left of the room. There is a chain inside both the right and left jamb assemblies and gearboxes at the top of the right and left, that can produce a sound that is more like grinding or popping. If you can make a video to capture the sound and send it to [email protected] to have them help identify the root cause.

Yes, the right hand and left hand jambs are different part numbers. If you need assistance with research, send an email to [email protected] with the label information inside the jamb assembly (Hybrids will have a part number that will have the letter H at then end and a date) Our team can assist you with the individual part numbers.

We are sorry to hear of your regrets. Our system is incredibly reliable when installed properly for the correct application. We would be happy to have our technical support team work with you on whatever issues you are experiencing. Please email them the detail, along with any photos you can provide and we would be happy to assist you. The email address is [email protected].

For the C-VAC3 the engine MUST be off while performing the flush service. The system uses compressed air and electricity with a vacuum and pump for the multiple functions. Please refer to the attached link. REMOVE & FILL OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS (flodynamics.com)

The wires that come off the motor are only about 6" long and the customer wires them in at the factory. It would be recommended to cut out the original splice when replacing the motor.

The glide surface referenced in this video is not is a component of our system, as the glide surface is selected by the RV Manufacturer. That being said, we find that in almost all cases where someone dislikes a cable operated slide, once we have a chance to have them train with BAL on the systems, they become quite the fan.

There are some RV Manufacturers that specifically request the motor to be mounted offset from the center of the rough opening, but that does change the cable and chain lengths in the design process for the left and right of the room. Most often the dual sprocket on the gear box should be aligned with the center mark of the opening, to allow the cables and chains on the right and left to be the exact same lengths. There is a backer in the wall for the motor to mount to. Page 2 of this link may also help: balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf

MrsPeedFrk, drilling four 5/16” holes (two on each frame rail) should not weaken the frame. The OEM that manufactured your trailer determines what is acceptable to add-on or what voids the warranty. We have never heard of an OEM voiding a warranty due to this product being installed. You cannot use only self-tapping/drilling screws. You will need two 5/16” bolts through the frame (Step 1 of instructions). Preferably grade 5. Length of bolts is determined by the thickness of your plate or tube frame. In regards to the instructions comments, you have hurt my feelings. Between the video and instructions we find most people can perform the install with no problems. Be sure to point your air nozzle down to make checking your spare pressure easier. Also, using an anti-seize or heavy grease on the Locking Knob threads will help keep it from rusting due to the elements it will be exposed to. -John

MrsPeedFrk, drilling four 5/16” holes (two on each frame rail) should not weaken the frame. The OEM that manufactured your trailer determines what is acceptable to add-on or what voids the warranty. We have never heard of an OEM voiding a warranty due to this product being installed. You cannot use only self-tapping/drilling screws. You will need two 5/16” bolts through the frame (Step 1 of instructions). Preferably grade 5. Length of bolts is determined by the thickness of your plate or tube frame. In regards to the instructions comments, you have hurt my feelings. Between the video and instructions we find most people can perform the install with no problems. Be sure to point your air nozzle down to make checking your spare pressure easier. Also, using an anti-seize or heavy grease on the Locking Knob threads will help keep it from rusting due to the elements it will be exposed to. -John

When the wall bracket is mounted to the wall, it should be mounted at a slant with the motor end of the assembly tilted 1/4" away from the chain. The bracket should not be mounted straight with the motor end of the assembly pulled down, bending the bracket, as this can damage the drive shaft between the motor and gearbox (when applicable). The chain on the same side as the motor end, should also be on the sprocket that is furthest from the gearbox. This set up is to prohibit the adjustment brackets (chain to cable connection) from hitting the end of the motor assembly. If you would like to send us a photo to [email protected] of the installation of the motor assembly, our technicians can review them for additional advise.

@@NorcoIndustries Thanks for the clarification, will follow up with support.