I have a switch lite I'm trying to figure out the issue I have recently got the screw tips I need and the CPU with light pressure applied still wont work
@DanielMensah-t3s7 күн бұрын
please what's the name of the removed object
@TheXbox7208 күн бұрын
Hello, my good friend, I don't understand the video after 18 minutes. Can you explain a bit?
@richierich.198211 күн бұрын
I have the same install, the bright/dim contrast only goes dim but still playable contrast, so not full on/off. Is this normal with this kit? I expected it to dim down to off. I measured the potentiometer value and it goes full range, measured at the screen mod connector.
@probablycantfixit642611 күн бұрын
Mine was very similar to yours. I did remove some of the components that were specifically for the high voltage circuit but it did not really seem to affect it.
@jeffnash569127 күн бұрын
After replacing the diode the "No AC" warning went away but the screen is completely blank. Any ideas on what might cause that? I put a new battery in as well
@probablycantfixit642619 күн бұрын
Sorry Jeff, I am not sure. You can try taking the screen board out and see if you find anything damaged on it.
@OMEGA9161Ай бұрын
Great! Thank you so much for sharing your troubleshooting!! I've replaced the Schottky diode and it is working again. I've used SK16, it is a little bigger than de B160 but fits perfect.
@probablycantfixit6426Ай бұрын
Awesome job, I am glad you got it fixed.
@richardseagris7577Ай бұрын
Hey there, I had one of these controllers fail (No AC) after a power surge, and thinking I must have just got a dud, went out and bought another one. How dumb was that? It failed 4 months outside warranty at the end of this season. I found your video, and having never done this type of electronic repair before, purchased a bag of diodes, an iron and some solder, followed your lead, and now I have two working controllers. I needed a win today, lol. Thank you SO much for taking the time to share your knowledge and skill.
@probablycantfixit6426Ай бұрын
You are welcome, and I am glad you got it fixed.
@nuvolare81Ай бұрын
hello, nice video. Where is the wi-fi antenna? because it doesn't connect to the internet anymore.
@framedoc12 ай бұрын
Well done! I’ll send you 2 of mine 😂
@ripdesoto2 ай бұрын
Literally the simplest install ever. And ive done funny playing IPS( super hard) and bennvenn a little tedious with the ribbon cable.
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Agreed. It was very simple.
@NickolaySheitanov2 ай бұрын
What type of air gun are you using this takes a century with mine
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
I am currently using a Yihua 995D+. I did buy an Atten, but I have not removed it from the box yet.
@jessypalomera22222 ай бұрын
You came around. All hail the algorithm!
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thanks.
@LLTechSolutions2 ай бұрын
I just subscribed, good job brother. informative and i like your vibe. :)
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thanks, much appreciated.
@phillytitan2 ай бұрын
Good job 👍
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@dentikit37912 ай бұрын
I believe in you champ, post more!
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thanks, I will try.
@RVNR20222 ай бұрын
interesting. better check with diode mode for the values on the caps... in this way you will have more fixed value across all boards
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
That is a good point. Next time I will do so. I have never seen one that was only outputting 3.2V on VSYS, but I am glad I decided to check it.
@ISquishWorms2 ай бұрын
The first customer will be happy, esp if you fixed it for free that was a really nice thing to have done. Nice job on that BQ.
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
The young fellow will be happy I am sure.
@n4_ku2 ай бұрын
Nice fix. Post more please.
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thanks, I will try to keep posting.
@cfq.tufanuf76012 ай бұрын
Great Job!
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
Thanks.
@RVNR20223 ай бұрын
oh crap. i didn't ask you if you check the resistance value on the coils for the apu to see if there is a short. a crack on the DIE will surely show a short on the power rails directly connected so if you check the resistances and compare with another board you can cyheck if the APU is still potentially good or not
@probablycantfixit64262 ай бұрын
I did, and I thought they looked normal. I will check again.
@TheCroupier743 ай бұрын
Thanks mate subscribed, curiosity got the better of me and I killed a working ps5 slim after watching computer boosters Friday stream. EDM-040. He had a 2 second blod. I thought I would check around the area where he had shorts. Was checking stand by voltages then tested power on voltages only to find now I have also have a 2 sec blod and shorts all over the same area around the SBV and a few other areas. Anyway pretty pissed if that I broke a working console. Using Cod3ers Uart tool I’m getting the dreaded 8081001, I don’t see how I could have killed the APU by checking voltages? Anyway if you feel like helping his ps5 repair starts at 4:33:46 kzbin.infoh3UHjWCwys4?si=mOsa1H1kSGECd-_V I also made a post on Computer Booter/forum-discussion discord to see what he thinks ? I saw your video from 5 months ago on the ps5 with various error codes including 80810001 and you fixed it with a HDMI ic replacement? However I’m only getting the one error and shorts in a completely different area? Oh well these ps5 and crazy and at least I now have an experience parts board. No many people have worked on the slims.
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, the APU to me does look least damaged so probably a reball will not work, still you did what you could and traced down the fault which is all you can do in this situation.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Thanks, I appreciate it. I agree the APU is probably done for.
@RVNR20223 ай бұрын
18:40 there is a cap missing and that is a dataline but i don't know if that was the donor or the board you were trying to fix for now to me looks like a sort of ssd issue. i really hate this system made from sony. you can't be sure if it is an ssd issue because is soldered and you can't pull it out to see if at least the console can boot and say the message "cannot find the storage disk" . the console is not going into safemode probably because is constantly try to load the software from the ssd. or can be a connection issue then yes under apu. but to me is unlikely. i mean... solder mix nowadays are pretty strong and durable. there is no guarantee obviously but if the console was not dropped or suffer from heavy overheating issues is unlikely to me. another good thing that i miss from ps4 is the terminal where can show you the boot process and if there is any error also there. like load bios error or other stuff to point you into a direction. is not a bad thing reball the apu, because you can rule out completely those "shrodinger balls cracked or not who now?" but if is not that the problem you can end up having a cooked APU and at that point is GAME OVER
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Understood. The missing cap was from the donor that I was comparing with. I first thought of the SSD as well, which is why I was trying to compare those. I may wait and see if more information comes available about this issue.
@craftbenmine3 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video! C0020303 is always directly APU related from experience, reading many threads on discord. I really liked the indepth diagnosing steps you went through. I would really like to see a ps5 apu reball but its honestly not gonna work, as you can see visible damage to the apu :(
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Yeah, I was worried about the APU. I wasn't sure if it was superficial or not, but it looked cracked to me. Thanks for the comment very helpful.
@matt.1083 ай бұрын
Ever look at that trace?
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Sorry, no. I will pull it out and record a video while looking. I promise.
@RVNR20223 ай бұрын
lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 look a bit beaten up... but definitely the perfect console to have some extreme experiments.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
LOL, yeah it was in rough condition.
@peterbarker86393 ай бұрын
Very easy to follow video thank you, just a quick question. The bottom side of the diode, (the side where it said D2) that is ground isn't it? can't seem to see any circuit leading away from it, so guessing it is straight to ground on the PCB. Thank you
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
I cannot remember. The other side may be ground but don't think I checked..
@peterbarker86393 ай бұрын
When I was trying to remove the old diode the top came off okay but the bottom bit left the board, I think it was half loose already. Was trying to trace back to where it came from. If it is ground I was just going to pick it up beside it on the board. Thanks
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
@@peterbarker8639 I understand. You lifted the pad from the board. If you scrape back the solder mask around the pad, you should be able to see if it was connected to the ground plane. At 16.29 of the video, it looks like it is connected to the plane surrounding that area.
@peterbarker86393 ай бұрын
Thanks. Yes when I looked at the pad it seemed to be connected to the ground plane. I tried scraping the board back to the ground plane and connecting the new diode up. When I plugged the power back in the 'NO AC' went off then it started flashing, but nothing else came up on the screen. There must be something else wrong with my board. Thank you for your time and help.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
@@peterbarker8639 You are quite welcome. Hopefully, you can figure out what the issue is.
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
I like your videos as you show your thinking and it is like watching an exploration happening on a circuit board. Thanks for posting this I was hooked until the end wanted to see how things worked out.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Thanks. I kept hoping that I would get it and it was very interesting to troubleshoot. I think I need to read an electronics book so I can become more familiar with these types of things.
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
@@probablycantfixit6426 It's always good to learn more. I have a very old electronics book that my Dad gave me, it has really nice hand drawings in. Despite it being old I think quite alot still applies today. At times I think you are too hard on yourself. We can't fix everything I know I certainly don't, I fail more than I fix, but just enjoy the challenge. I think you have a good methodical approach and I like the journey you take us on in the videos.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
@@ISquishWorms That is very nice for you to say. I will keep at it.
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
Nice video, that soldering on the screen connector looked tricky but you did a nice job on that.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Thanks.
@edl19573 ай бұрын
Sir, you should be commended and congratulated for your troubleshooting, diagnosis, and repair skills. I had the same issue with my controller. I watched your video a few times, ordered the part through Amazon (next day delivery), replaced the part on the controller, and it now works again. Wow. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video; I am very grateful. A couple of things: 1) wondering what the root cause of the diode failure is; any thoughts?, and 2) do you think that the replacement diode will be robust and not fail like the original one? Thank you again (a proud owner of 99 Schottky diodes :)
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
That is great news. Question 1: I think the root cause is power surges on AC mains that over time, weaken the diode, and result in the diode shorting. It has been, most likely, designed this way. Question 2: I am sure it will last for a while, but it will fail eventually. What can be done, is you can contact Mouser or Digikey, and they should be able to help you find the exact replacement for your system. They could help you find a diode that would last as long as the original part or longer.
@edl19573 ай бұрын
@@probablycantfixit6426 Appreciate your response. Thank you again.
@rodgarland50913 ай бұрын
Excellent thanks. Had this issue on an orbit 6 station controller and unfortunately threw it away. Bought a replacement 12 station unit and alas the same issue on this one 2 years later.. Found this video....spent $1.00 at the local electronics store and replaced the shottky and she all works. Would have cost me A$290.00 to replace again otherwise.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
That is great, I am glad you got it fixed.
@milankhusal43893 ай бұрын
Absolute legend!! Thanks for posting this video! Had two separate controllers stop working within a month of each other and was dreading having to spend lots of Aussy dollars replacing them. Few bucks and a couple diodes later, problem solved! Never soldered in my life before, you made it too easy.. I used SS16 1A 60V Schottky diode off Amazon which worked on both controllers. And now I'm armed with a soldering iron walking around the house looking for things to melt..i mean mend.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
That is awesome. It is OK to melt stuff, just not your stuff.
@chriss43653 ай бұрын
Just replaced the caps in mine and it still turns off when you turn it on same as before replacing caps. You can see the sega legal disclaimer on the screen before it shuts off.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Can you monitor your voltage rails to see if the voltage is dropping when you power on the console? For example, you should have 5V and it should be steady after the console is switched on. Also, there is a tremendous amount of information here: www.retrosix.wiki/getting-to-red-light-boot-game-gear
@chriss43653 ай бұрын
@probablycantfixit6426 interesting. I let it sit then suddenly it worked. It would crash while playing a game then suddenly has worked ok so far after that.
@chriss43653 ай бұрын
@@probablycantfixit6426 voltages were normal.
@chriss43653 ай бұрын
Now its doing it again turns off right away. So strange it worked fine before.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
@@chriss4365 That is definitely a strange fault. I am assuming you have rechecked all the solder joints on the caps? Are you pulling power from batteries or DC jack?
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
Defeat is good it is how we learn and improve and this one was always going to be super tough if not impossible. You did what could be done, this video also shows that you are genuine and post your fails as well as your wins. I wish you had kept me guessing though rather than tell me up front in the video title, I will always watch till the end win or fail I enjoy guessing how things will turn out. Here is to the next video thank you for the content.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Thanks for the comment. I will leave it out next time. I am like you, I don't really care of the person fixes it or not, I just like the process.
@Ryan479873 ай бұрын
ya it one the 8 tabs that are the outside connector at less found something just checking
@Ryan479873 ай бұрын
ya just boult n64 console at video store the day had bent cartage connecter fix was bent tab on the outside cartage connecter fix by bend back i noteced on your it was bent use pilers and flat srew driver had same problam fixed not say its the same problam your haveing
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Gotcha, thanks for the information. I will take a look at it.
@RVNR20223 ай бұрын
OH GOD! hope you didn't spent too much on that
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
LOL, I spent more than I should have.
@jairjuniordasilvalima19823 ай бұрын
hello everything is fine ? Could you help me? I have a one s, which is not showing an image! I changed the ci hdmi u8b2 and still no image!! I found 5 volts on pin 18 of the hdmi connector, on pin 19, with the cable connected it gives 2 volts, is this voltage on pin 19 correct?
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Have you tried swapping in another hard drive? Hard drive's can cause no image
@jairjuniordasilvalima19823 ай бұрын
@@probablycantfixit6426 yes... already test the hard drive! What voltage would have to be on pin 19 of the HDMI connector? because I have 2 volts, with cable connected! on pin 18 we have 5 volts!
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
@@jairjuniordasilvalima1982 If I remember correctly, you should have 5V on pin 18 (console to TV) and 5V on pin 19 (TV to console). Pin 19 is called Hot Plug Detect according to the HDMI specification. That 5V tells the console that there is something plugged in.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
Let me go one step further. When U8B1 receives the 5V Hot Plug Detect, it sends out a 3.3V signal through R8B4 which goes to U8B2 (retimer). You can try and measure the 3.3V at R8B4 to see if you are getting the 3.3V. I think your problem may be U8B1. There are a lot of videos on how to bypass that to check and see if it is bad.
@jairjuniordasilvalima19823 ай бұрын
@@probablycantfixit6426 Thanks for the help.. I'll check the voltages now
@ISquishWorms3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching things being fixed.
@probablycantfixit64263 ай бұрын
You are quite welcome, thanks for the comment.
@cesariushervelazco84 ай бұрын
Good job. It's already 100 tines better. Can't wait for part 2
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Thanks, I will update when I get the additional parts in.
@jsilverboy4 ай бұрын
Video is way drawn out. A lot of this stuff could have been edited out.
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Thanks for the feedback. If I made a N64 video today, it would probably be much shorter because I have a better understanding of how they function. When I recorded this video, I had no idea and thus the video was longer.
@asyncawaited4 ай бұрын
I actually enjoyed watching the process unedited.
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
@@asyncawaited Thanks very much. I like videos that are less edited as well. I learn more from the person that way.
@leadscollector4 ай бұрын
Whats your microscope setup
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Andonstar AD407 with www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP6VQFCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. It is shaky but it works pretty well.
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Also, I purchased a cheap ring light to mount to the bottom of the microscope for lighting.
@leadscollector4 ай бұрын
Perfect. What is your oscilloscope@@probablycantfixit6426
@chriss43654 ай бұрын
Its amazing a computer being 30 years old still works perfectly. Lets see current computers work in the next 30 years.
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Agreed.
@worroSfOretsevraH4 ай бұрын
Now you should measure again those 2 chips involved in video creation with your oscilloscope. I'm waiting for a followup.
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
I will create a video of what the oscilloscope readings are and post it. That is a good idea and may be helpful for other folks.
@RVNR20224 ай бұрын
is hard to make videos when you try to buy faulty items and they come perfectly fine LOL. but i learn a thing. even if the video i short and non conclusive people still watch it to see your experience. and you can also combine multiple videos in one even if they are not a fix. testing stuff is still enjoyable to watch. at least for me
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
I will start doing that. It is indeed frustrating.
@TheTracker244 ай бұрын
Just copy and reflash original bios, it worked for me! i got the same error when i tried to modify other dump from a working identical system. everything worked fine until i tried to update the sistem.
@rcruz8563 ай бұрын
How do you reflash it?
@fhs88604 ай бұрын
@probablycantfixit6426 Thank you for posting your video. I followed your instructions and it helped me fix my irrigation controller. Thx 🙏
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
Thanks. I am glad you got it working.
@حسامالبقمي-ن3ك4 ай бұрын
So is the program not reliable from your prospective sir? I really wanted to hear an opposing opinion about program so I can get aware of it in the future?
@probablycantfixit64264 ай бұрын
The program is reliable and is very helpful in narrowing down your search for the faulty component.