hello, i have a question for any one who knows about e bike batteries. i have a 48v 17.5 AH batterie for my bike, after a litle bit more then 6000 km i starting having an issue. when i use my bike and i draw i bit of power 500w or more the baterie on the display drops to 38v. the strange thing is that the motor stops but the display stays lit, and after mayby 30 sec the power goes back to normal. but when i ride with litle power the baterie fonctions normaly. i thought it was voltage sagg but it seems a litle extreme, ive open up the baterie to check the cells voltage but they are all good, i was thinking it might be the bms but im not sure. if anyone can help me i would be greatfull.

If one is going to order online, s/he must study the product type enough to make sure all description fits with current technology.

hello does it vibrates less and is it better than the stock? :)

Question for ya. I just got a 5600watt scooter like this from fb marketplace. Inspected it and found one of the xt60 connectors melted and I am wondering what the bad part is. I reconnected the wires for a second after I put xt90 connector on it. The good xt90 too with the anti spark. Anyhow. I didn’t like the way it felt and disconnected it right away. What would have caused the melting xt60? Bad battery? Imbalanced cells? Can I just strap any ol 60v battery to these machines or also why do they have two seperate xt60 terminals? Are there two seperate batteries strapped together and balanced through controllers?

Hi, Do you know if it is the same size of bearings for the front wheel too please?......ideally I want to strip and replace them straight away rather than finding out what size they are and then have to order them. Thank you.

How are you teaching anybody anything when your NOT EVEN SHOWING THE MULTIMETER SETTINGS????What is WRONG WITH YOU????

I put a 20mm washer inside and it became harder, and a 12mm diameter rubber roller inside. Now it works faster and better.

You damaged your new bearing by taping it with hammer..

I have this scooter when I tern it on the wheels spin and won’t stop till I tern it off

On the mxr1300 is there a wire I can cut to make more power

Have you changed your number

Anyone know the BMS. Maximum of a 48v 21ah battery

Use a controller that doesn't need hall sensors 😊

Hi my 36 v battery. Is showing 39.7. After fully charging. Is this battery running OK? Regards

I have same scooter can you tell me the E001 fault code ?

Great video ,,clear instructions ,

I ran into this myself, it's an education in pain haha.

Hello i have also a 36v battery but on my multimeter it says 28v and my bike doesnt power on but does charge

I have a 48V 1000W motor and a controller of 15A rated current and 30A maximum current with a battery of 54V 12.5A (BMS 35A MAX CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE) The motor spins freely without issue but on load it accelerate to about 15km/Hr the power cuts off, display refreshes (l am clueless if it"s the BMS or controller cutting off power and why] Pls help

My throttle doesn’t have power? What do I do?

What a mess!

Gratitude. My 48 volt system is driving me nucking futs!

Is it possible to disconnect a motor and only use the other one that works my front one doesn’t work and my scooter isn’t showing and display or power

Doesn't seem any better than the original ones

What ever happened? Were you able to trickle charge it back up ? Or just jump it with your nuclear power plant in the basement?

I have a question I bought an aliexpress battery that says 50amp but it gets discharged very quickly in about 15 miles and this battery is smaller than my 48v-18 amps how can they say its a 50amp battery?

The cells are 8000ma spike. They must have gone off of that or only had a 35a bms laying around. So if you ever rebuild your battery you have a bigger amp bms to use. If your controller is more than 14 amps and run at full throttle that in it self will drain your battery fast. Maybe your controller is cutting off your battery at low voltage.

If they did a top balance wouldn’t they have had to open it to disconnect the bms? So are you deducing that its the wrong battery for the bike because your assuming the BMS is probably OEM and therefore the controller was for a 1000watt bike and trying to draw up anywhere up to 35 amp. So I’m guessing that its ok to use that BMS on a 14a battery, but you have no protection for the battery since the problem is its not big enough, relying on battery shutdown for either temperature or low voltage shutoff?

I wouldn't have even opened a pack like that. Very low audio on this vid, btw.

Is it easier to replace rather than fix? My one (Kugoo Kieran M4) has done over 1700kms, i replaced the tyre but messed up the cable (as one does)

Can you put that motor on a g2max front wheel ?

@13:50 I like how that data sheet uses mAh for current. Lol. But in other parts of the datasheet it gives the proper mA current unit. Other datasheets also give it a 2c continuous rating and 3c max discharge (for acceleration). While its a weak battery for that application, i think the problem is a little deeper, and you can’t see on that bike without checking top balance, draining the pack, and checking bottom balance. A smart BMS would show the problem very quickly. Since we know those cells can deliver 8250 mA, and it’s 5p, thats 41a. We also know a 48v 1000w controller is not 20a peak, it’s probably 30a peak. Thats the number we need to see. But assuming 30a peak, 35a bms, 41a cell max, i would assume there are some dead cells in some odd the cell groups. Since we know those are low drain cells, probably ran at too high a discharge for too long, it’s quite likely he popped a few CIDs, and severely degraded the cells. A smart BMS would show this as soon as you rode the bike. Any battery can be top balanced as long as at least 1 cell in each group is still alive. Even if that 13s5p only had 4,3,2 or even 1 cell working. We also know a dumb BMS won’t balance a pack that suddenly had a cell die, because the BMS reaches OVP before the charger current can taper down. I suspect someone got in there and manually balanced that pack without checking for dead cells, which is nearly impossible. I had a 13s5p battery with dumb BMS and I thought everything was fine until I put an ANT bms in it. Then I could see cell differential climb during acceleration and also that same outlier brick was dropping faster as the pack drained. Turns out one brick has a dead cell. Not shorted of course but the CID popped, so it just sat there quietly. Lol. Eventually i clipped the nickel on the positive bus one cell at a time until i found the cell whose voltage suddenly changed. Of course it was the last cell. Lol. But i cut it out and slid in a new cell and welded up the bus again and now it’s working fine. Still a 💩 25a cdr battery, but working fine. If you had a way to load test that on your workbench and then check voltage sag, I bet one was sagging down and hitting LVP early. That battery patched up can work fine on that bike if he uses another similar battery in parallel (not with some electronic splitter). Anyway, just my speculation because that battery probably already had the fire department called on it. Lol

Parameters of BearEbikes are real… 4000w nominal power and peak power 20kw. But that bike what you showed us is not factory BearEbike… It’s only built on BearEbike frame… some one built it himself. Don’t tell it’s original factory BearEbike… From first look I can tell it’s not… also the controller is totally different than factory one - BAC4000 or BAC8000 not the sabvoton

Hi. This is not our product. This is product made on our frame. Our frames are on sale all time. Everybody can build own bike on our frame

Audio working this time. I watched last one twice as had to watch then again with phone to my ear 😂 there was audio but quite. Great video bro 👍✌☝️❤👊 you cry when you try yo remove the steel rod / pin in stem. It has two weak copper inserts and one washer. To add more washers you have to remove the pin which is easier said than done with limited tools.😂 My mates done a dual motor one of these, its rapid like i tell thee😂

Hello , how to reset the BMS after repair the zells.? Thanks

I would like to know more about the alternative front-shock approach that you mention at the 17:20 point within the video?

M4 kugoo?

It looks like a bomb

This is an amazing channel! Would it be possible to upgrade to a bigger guage phases? Or it will be a tight fit?

Do the new shocks feel softer? Does it ride smoother?

Can these 2800w motors run on 72v with upgraded vesc/sinewave 72v?

Can this motor run 72v? With upgraded 72v controllers?

Hi, nice vid. Maybe a clearer view of where to measure on the bms? regards

Thanks a lot man ! If anybody around here is trying to fix the bearings of the urbanglide ecross pro, it’s the same only when you have to put back the motor inside the wiring are facing down and not up, otherwise it can’t go fully inside and you can’t close the lid

Hey thank you for all your shared knowledge.. There's a video you did about 2 years ago That's what brought me to your channel That's comments are turned off but I just had a quick question in regards to that controller . I'm wondering if you have a video how I could check to see if it's worth fixing maybe troubleshoot it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fpOpnWZ3ps5-jsk this is the video I'm referring to of yours If you don't understand what I'm trying to get at no hard feelings. But once again thank you for your sharing

Yesterday my engine completely stopped working.and I step on the gas but nothing happens.😭 what do you think happened.❓❔❓

Can u do same video but for kugoo G2 pro

My KugooKirin G3 has becomebe locked down, How can I reset the speed?

Do you have to open the battery screws to get to the wires