It’s currently in the process of full automation. Be sure to check out the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group to see how others have already converted their machine to full automatic. I’m in the process of testing a clamp design to convert current MK3 machines to full automatic as well.

Thank you so much for the support! I really appreciate it.

Much appreciated!

I would suggest every time you change the filament and periodically if the filament was sitting on the machine for a long time. Even if the filament is the same brand you never know if the formula or batch is exactly the same so it's not a bad idea to run it. I only takes a minute or so and it doesn't waste that much plastic..

Hi. I am waiting for it to be out of the Beta stage. I don't want to do a bunch of work only to have I change quickly after.

Yeah if the size is an issue there is always the regular A1 as well. I think I might wait to see if they make an XL version in the future before I get another one.

You can. However as a Cura user exclusively for years I feel the pain of trying something else but there are many advantages to Orca slicer which is what this is a version of. Plus some of the advanced features of this machine may only work with their slicer. However you can still run gcode from Cura if you like.

Glad you think so!

Thanks for the sub!

Not sure if this was an actual question but I have been receiving machines since well before I even had 1 or 2K subscribers. Companies saw some videos I did early on about my injection molding machine and liked them so they offered me a laser engraver for a review. I had never even used a laser engraver before I was offered one. The fact that I’m even a “KZbinr” was never a goal or intentional, it was the companies that reached out and made that a thing. xTool for instance was a very early collaboration and they have sent me at least 5 machines so far but it has generated more than $300K in direct sales and probably 3 to 4 times that in sales of people who bought but didn’t click my links. So for probably a few hundred in actual cost of the machines from the company to potentially a million dollars in sales seems like a good investment. Thanks for watching.

It’s nice that the option is there and depending on what you want to print it could be cool but for me I’m content with the awesome printer by itself.

A friend of mine bought the AMS and paid off the Bambu AMS and his next three bambus he bought (and then some) on his first day at a festival. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@joelamaro4525 so he must have been severely overcharging for prints

The Etsy package has different files for the different laser wattages including the 40W.

I really liked it. I think you will as well.

Glad it was helpful!

Even in the short time I have had it so far I feel the same way. It will be my go to for anything that fits which again is most of the things I print regularly. I haven't even had my other 3D printers on since I got it.

@@BusterBeagle3D Since I bought my X1C, my Prusa Minis mostly sit. It makes me sad cuz I love those little guys. LOL - And I just received my A1 Mini this morning!

Wow. that sounds good! I was wondering if I can run them for repeated use

@@chuysaucedo7119 There truly is no Buster Beagle 3D without my first 3D printer so it was very sad to replace it. I put in it storage to pull it out at sometime. I didn't have the heart to part it out.

@@BusterBeagle3D I know the feeling all too well. My wife gets irritated at me sometimes.

I have not personally but I don't see any reason why you couldn't

The lens is not a consumable product so there should be no reason for ever replacing it. However if you want to get different focal distance lenses or if you happen to damage it somehow you can replace it and they are not overly expensive. I think around $50-$70.

Thank you. It is specific to metal on the machine and it’s a technique I came up with through some good ole fashioned trial and error.

@@BusterBeagle3D Wow that was awesome then. THanks for getting back with me

I have used fiber lasers to make molds in Aluminum for my Buster Beagle 3D MK3 injection molding machine in the past. It works well but does take some planning and tests to get it right.

@@BusterBeagle3D Sounds like a cool use case for semi-mass production

When talking about wiping it clean I'm essentially doing a white pass over the whole thing. I believe it was a dot duration of 200 and power of 80. This will clean up the coin by removing any dark spots but might take a few passes. It will not put the brass back to it original shine however. To do that you could use a brass brush on a Dremel tool or something to that affect to polish it back to the original shine.

@@BusterBeagle3D thank you!

@@BusterBeagle3D My result was great for the brass shell casings. Thank you so much for your help!

I'm assuming you mean SVG but if that doesn't work then I'm honestly not sure. All of the CDR files that I have converted have been to SVG. You could try to convert to DXF and see if you have better luck though. Also I'm not sure if you are exporting straight from CDR since I have never used that, the only way I have been converting those files is from online converters.

@@BusterBeagle3D thx

While I don't commission jobs at this time I would suggest joining some of the laser engraving Facebook groups where I have no doubt you can find someone who is willing to some jobs for you.

Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.

Dropped them here. Enjoy. drive.google.com/file/d/18V_jBV8R9S6bPU0ubAIpIKwsqd6f2s_F/view?usp=sharing

@@BusterBeagle3D thank youu🙌🏻 now I’m just trying figure out why the back of my prints arnt getting enough air flow, they keep slightly warping from not drying fast enough I think, I’m running 205 and a 60 on bed

@@user-nn2dq7of6m Just open all of the doors or better yet just remove them all together if you are using PLA primarily. You really only want it enclosed for ABS, PETG etc where you need higher temps.

Thank you Mike and I'm glad everything is going well. Don't hesitate to reach out if you hit any issues along the way.

You are welcome. Thank you!

It came from the IKier and you can find it on their website. When it comes to your honeycomb you can easily clean it with some degreaser from the dollar store. Just put it in a tub, spray it with the degreaser, I bought mine at Dollar Tree, let it sit for a few minutes and rinse with water. It removes all of the sticky residue.

@@BusterBeagle3D well, so I have to find a tub or basin large enough for roughly 40x40 cm which my wife won’t miss if I use it to put that dirty thing in. Tough challenge.

Hi. The newest version of the software has changed around quite a few things. I have been waiting for the software to get out of it's BETA phase before updating any videos on how it works. It's still somewhat restrictive in what you can do. If you really want the most feature rich software that you can use with the machine I would recommend checking out Lightburn. I have a whole video going over how to work in Lightburn with the D1 on my channel.

You would have to run some tests on the material and see how many passes equal what depth. It was not something I really focused on but if you were going to attempt to reach specific depths it’s something you would really need to test out. 10mm might also be pretty deep. The issue is that the focal distance of the laser is in a certain range. So perhaps you would need to run it about 2mm with the laser at a certain height and then lower the laser head 2mm and do the next 2mm deep. That might not be the exact range you need to work with but something along those lines.

Hi. I had recently chatted with the owner who had mentioned they had quite a few on hand. I just messaged them again letting them know that the kits are listed out of stock. It may just be oversight of updating the stock on the website. I’ve been guilty of it plenty of times as well. I’ll update here again when I hear back.

@@BusterBeagle3D thanks for the update, and all the work you've put into this project. I've told a bunch of makers about you at conventions I've been to over the past year.

@@WirelessDreamer Thank you. I appreciate you spreading the word!

@WirelessDreamer I just heard back. He put the frame kits back online. I heard he is out of the pneumatic cylinders but is expecting them any day now but the kits have been listed.

Glad to hear it was helpful!

If you are talking about the S1 then yes even a 10W laser can do it. It’s really just removing a small layer of coating on the metal and not engraving into the metal itself. It’s no different than engraving in tumblers which I’ve even done with 5W lasers.

My 40W did come with an updated power brick. I'm not sure this upgrade set ever exists anymore but that was how mine came.