Here a few Tidal Curves for those wishing to practice at home, also a few recommended Apps to check the tides while sailing. file:///C:/Users/Owner/Downloads/Standard_port_tidal-curves.pdf apps.apple.com/us/app/tides-near-me/id585223877 www.bom.gov.au/ www.willyweather.com.au/ The purpose of the tidal curve nowadays is to give us the ability to check tides in advance or real time when internet is not available and furthermore gathering information from at least two different sources is always safer! Happy sailing!! Jamie and the Southern Cross Team

Hi all, thanks for watching our videos. Please note that these videos are designed as a snapshot into the topics they relate too and by no means cover ALL of the information that might be needed when sailing or navigating. Anchoring can be a complex subject with many variables such as; weather, boat type and size, types of anchor, tides, rope vs chain, chain size, engine size, monohull vs catamaran and much more.... In addition to the information covered in this video switching on your anchor light at night & digging the anchor into the seabed by using the engine are both very important to remember - I purposely didn't mention these two topics in the video as I plan to make a more technical video in the future. and am trying to keep these videos under 10mins if possible. As well as using the 'Anchor Alarm' on the vessel's chart plotter there are also many Apps available such as 'Anchor Pro'. apps.apple.com/au/app/anchor-pro/id1445476850 Many thanks & happy sailing! Jamie & the #southerncrossyachting team

Really enjoying your videos, but the background music in this one is extremely distracting. Not sure why you have music going on when someone is talking?

Brilliant and clear explanation. Thanks

Your hand hid everything till the end 😂

The coiled blue rope behind you is the strongest shape rope coil I ever saw Nice knot, great vid

Bowline, clove hitch, cleat hitch.

You were nearly there but there are still holes in your version. Setting an anchor alarm as you drop the anchor? Not going to happen. Use Anchor Pro and set afterwards with a relative bearing and distance. Watch it for a half hour and you will able to see from the anchor history and swing. You can then move the anchor in the app to a more accurate position. If you have a good gps and antenna it should be accurate to a 1.0m easily. 3:1 rode because it is deep? I presume that is an untested opinion. Watch SV Panopes videos on anchoring. Cold hard testing. I think your snubber should not go out over the roller but rather through a fairlead to the side. Stainless steel hook is not going to cause a dissimilar metal issue. How long are you anchoring for? Weeks or months. I run the revs up to 1200 first to help set the anchor. Then back off the revs and then bring it up to 2500 rpm to test the hold. A shuddering chain indicates it is slipping.

Excellent video. Very interesting and insightful 👍 .... 🇬🇧

Thank you! highly recommend reversing to at least 2,000rpm once the anchor is perceived to be set. Sometimes this does dislodge the anchor, especially if there’s weed on the seabed. If nothing moves when reversing, you can relax of the gusts start coming through.

Experts? 1) Snubber line isn't just for taking the pressure off the windlass, but for also providing stretch to absorb jerks and such. That means the snubber should be at least 10 feet long, preferably 15. You also need to let out 3 feet of extra chain to allow that stretch. Also keep in mind the chain is going to twist as the snubber stretches and the line untwists. Also put chafe guard on the snubber where it touches the boat. I've seen many boats pop the anchor lose when this isn't done right. 2) I much prefer to tie my snubber line to the chain as I know it will never come off. Also, many hooks and such are SS and you don't want SS on a galvanized chain. It will eat up the chain. If you know your knots, you can do a quick secure knot just as fast as a hook. 3) Most importantly, you didn't back down on the anchor. Back that thing down at 2,500 rpm. If the anchor can't hold at that RPM then it will not hold in a blow. Watch the GPS coordinates at the helm to determine if you are dragging. Expect some dragging at first but if you keep dragging for several meters then re-anchor. 4) use a compass to take readings from a place you would like to check in the middle of the night of land marks. GPS isn't 100% reliable so anchor alarms aren't 100% reliable. I like to take readings of hill tops from the companion way using binoculars with a compass inside them as you can get very accurate readings that way. 5) anchor alarms are best done on portable devices like a smart phone. When you drop your anchor from the bow, set that as the mark. Then set the radius as the rode length + boat length + 30 ft. That way you can swing in all 360 degrees and not trip the alarm unless you drag. Some boat alarms for phones can call another phone and that is handy when you are on shore. 6) Scope: It's a lot more complicated then just 5 times. If using rope or chain/rope combo, then it's always 7x the depth + height of bow off water. If using all chain, this is where it varies. In deep water, like 40+ feet, you can get away with 3x if your chain is on the heavy side (3/8 for boats 45' and under). The weight of the chain will give you the same pull on the anchor as a longer pull. When in shallower water, especially under 10 feet, always use 7x scope. It is also good practice to ask the others around you what they have out so you can determine what will happen in a wind shift. Some are led to believe all you need at all depths is 3x. If you have more than them and the wind shifts where you swing towards them, you may hit them. Space is king but most anchorages these days are packed full unless you are there in the offseason or at a far away island. 7) Never drop anchor so close to another boat that with a wind shift they will be sitting on top of your anchor. You may not be able to get your anchor up in a hurry. Also keep in mind when you are setting your anchor that you want to make sure you aren't sitting on the person's anchor behind you. They will not like that much. For single handlers: pick a spot, come up to that spot where you will come to a stop half a boat length to starboard of it and a boat length up wind of it. Approach at a 10 degree angle to the wind so when the boat stops, the bow swings to port. Once you reach that spot, make sure the boat is stopped, then put it in neutral and go forward. By the time you get the anchor down (no need to rush), with the bow swing and drifting backwards beam to the wind, the anchor will be exactly touching bottom just a few feet in front of the spot you picked. A few feet because when setting the anchor it will drag a little. And do not forget to back it down once all rode is out and snubber line attached. Other than all that, you guys nailed it :)

Good Tips, thanks for the Video. But i miss the Anchor Light

Hey Sam this is Elijah love this video😂

Really nice, simple, clear demo. Wish all boat skills could be shown this way.

Now try it from a finger berth with boats beside and in front/behind.

That OXO method is slow to tie and looks like a rats nest compared to a proper cleat hitch.

That was a great interview with Heidi. Her honesty about Narrowboat life is refreshing and really interesting.

What a gem of an interview to get an insight into a vanished era .l’ve spent most of my life with horses ,sometimes working them but alas not on the waterways.

So rare to see proper techniques being taught here, maybe not a lost art after all...kudos!

A good video and explanation of docking maneuvers. Wasn't technical at all.

Hey it’s Elijah this is indeed very useful

Great video mate thank you

Love your videos. Insightful, interesting & professional. Thank you for taking the time. Your channel deserves to do well ... 🇬🇧

Excellent video on winch and clutch use. I've never used either before and I'm about to do the RYA competent crew course. This was exactly what I needed to see.

Its simple, it's like eating an elephant, do it slowly. One bite at a time. I owned a marina once, it was a job to teach the idiots about wind and steering and house boats. Or any larger craft.

Nice and clear. Thanks.

re: that last maneuver, springing off the dock. We did that several times in a cat and dug a big groove in the gel coat. A lot of pressure builds up right at that corner. It can be really difficult holding a rounded fender between the boat and the dock. The pressure wants to squeeze and roll it out of position. I always wanted a flat fender for this job. Maybe a cushion could be used for 'proof of concept.' Other sailors tell me it's not a problem even with a rounded fender. (I've got bow thrusters so basically I'm now just cheating.)

Very good. Subscribed. Verbal instruction was excellent. Some critical feedback: Better polar diagrams would be an improvement, animated to show a working plan of how each warp is used; esp in this case - springs. Longer video, with clearer videographic (live action) sequences. In this video, editing cut away too soon. Perfect X/O - fig 8 - tie-off though. Overall, a good sensible format .

Nice video! Is that V-Sheet an Australian thing? I've never heard of and never seen it in Europe and when I search online I mainly get .au links. Lifelines are sloppy/moving and placed low; both very bad for keeping balance.