I will definitely be thinking about this. A 10sec video answer of me saying i am dumb and I like to make my life harder then what it needs to be probably isn’t the best answer.

I truly appreciate the support and you taking the time to watch and comment on the videos.

@@ravenwingfeather4081 what’s the ig? I will follow

@@elian222 several reasons why it’s not ideal to run a amp ground cable to direct a battery. There is a potential for ground loop. Second the wire would need to be pretty thick. The metal body of a car can pass way more current then a wire ever could. Now if your battery is next to the amp in the trunk this would not be an issue. But ideally you want the ground cable as short as possible.

@@red_rabbit_specv Thanks for your response. What I was advocating is putting the ground wire from the metal car body directly to the battery (also very short cable). I was questioning your choice of putting the cable from the metal car body to the engine as you did in the video. I do understand that the battery negative/ground cable also bolts directly to the engine so your config will work fine but why not just go directly from the metal car body to the actual battery negative cable on the battery terminal? The only reason I can think of would be that the way you did it looks cleaner and less conspicuous or noticeable with the ground cable going from metal car body to the engine - also in some vehicles maybe as you mentioned this way the ground cable would be shorter thus less voltage drop. But with it going from metal car body to engine there would be far more chance for a voltage drop issue through the engine later as things get old, corrode, etc. Thanks again!

@@elian222 the factory ground setup on this car is battery to body and then engine/trans to body. Some cars will have engine direct to battery ground. The factory has 2 cables going from engine to body. I am adding additional engine to body ground near where the sensors ground out at. I got 4 additional grounds not show in the video. I don’t want to run 4 cables to the battery negative because I still want it to look clean. I may end up running one line to the battery but I still need to finish up some resistance testing before I finalize what I am doing for sure. voltage drop or should I say resistance is the reason I am running additional ground points. I want to make sure the sensors have the ability to get the cleanest signal possible. With the gauge of wire even if half the grounds go bad it wouldn’t really effect anything as I still would have more grounds then factory. Corrosion isnt an issue for my car but for some it might be. Using high quality wire and lugs, shrink tubing will help. But yea running a cable from the engine to battery might not be an idea but it’s something I still needed to test to see if it will truly make a difference.

@@telecaster305 nice! where is home?

@ Miami

@ going to keep it as a daily driver. 🤙🏻

@@Unknown90010 it will kind of work. You will probably find it will not be as loud using the factory amp.. the factory sub is zero ohm. The pioneer is most likely going to be 2 or 4 ohm

@red_rabbit_specv ok so I have to take out the old amp then and get a new one? Do you happen to know the location of the stock amp so I can take it out

I believe it’s in the trunk on the top part near the rear speakers. You can try and run it to see if you’re happy with it.

@@red_rabbit_specv ok thanks

@@Unknown90010 keep me updated

Appreciate it!

@@williambreeze2659 the kid abandoned it after he realized how much extra work it is to put it there. Not just the exhaust routing but the oil feed and having to run a pump to get the oil back in the oil pan. He was trying to be different but that doesn’t mean good. He sold the car so it stays in bdso for life.

@@red_rabbit_specv Sometimes it's best not to reinvent the wheel lol.

I did during the 2 hurricane before this on my channel. But this one I was unable too because it was in middle of the night so you couldn’t see anything being pitch black. To be honest with not being able to see what was going on made me a lot more nervous during it.

@red_rabbit_specv What city do you live in or near? I was in Madison for the storm. It was loud.

@@swflwx I am about 2-3 miles east off of Madison but before Lee. It was fun. I secretly kinda like storms.

​@@red_rabbit_specv I have a soft spot for them myself. But the aftermath obviously does suck quite a bit. The day after I was sitting for a while down at Lake Frances in Madison and it was so nice. Madison and Lee had some weaker buildings destroyed, but it wasn't my worst hurricane experience.

Yea that probably wasn’t the smartest thing I done.

@@ProcutsTint flashing check engine light is a pretty bad missfire condition. Could be an easy fix or it can be a nightmare. Would be curious to know what codes is associated with that besides the typical Po300-Po304 codes that’s triggered the flashing light.

@@atcquad sounds about right.

lol. So true

LOL. Clearly you never used dial up. Starlink is fantastic, if you're not getting good speed you're doing something wrong.

@@commoncentsamerican I don’t know what kind of magical dial up you had. But my old 56k modem was slow as shit. Plus I got tired of renewing my free trial of AOL.

@@thentil Starlink is not fantastic. They even admit to speeds nearly as slow as dial up. Comparable to the existent dish internet speeds they are all trash.