#029

This episode focuses mainly on cabling that is outside and exposed to the sun and weather. I'm also trying out a new camera angle for the channel using "the bench". I expect to do many product reviews and training shots from here soon!!
UPDATE: Many of you have asked about what was on my PC screens so here goes... I like to use "live data visualization" websites and simply use a full-screen window of Chrome to show it. Here are links to the 4 different things I had on display:
LOWER CENTER SCREEN:
Tangram Sandbox - some form of 3D visualization of world (cities are the best to move to first off) combined with possibly realtime traffic information.
patriciogonzalezvivo.github.i...
UPPER CENTER SCREEN:
Earth - "a global map of wind, weather, and ocean conditions"
earth.nullschool.net/#current...
LEFT SCREEN:
The Globe of Economic Complexity - Very cool 3D view of world trade activity. There's some amazing other data visualzation views on that page as well.
globe.cid.harvard.edu/?mode=gr...
RIGHT SCREEN:
Bitcoin Market Tracker - I really don't care too much about BTC but I liked the smaller visualization window for my smaller screen.
bitcoinity.org/markets
NOTE: Much of this was obtained through a rather old Reddit page that's still a decent resource for "live data" websites:
/ i_love_live_data_visua...

[@RellyOhBoy]

I remember my days as an installer for Timewarner Cable running drops. Midspans, RG6 messenger cable, span clamps, P-hooks, Lag shields, dead-ends and ground blocks. Climbing my 28 foot extension ladder, tying off to the strand swaying in the wind trying to hang a midspan drop across a 4 lane boulevard in Queens. Oh what fun.

[@AnthonyQuinnJr]

YES, OMG, YES! Another FiberNinja video. Now my day is complete :) Thank you so much kind sir.

[@toxeia]

You're an under rated creator on KZbin. I don't run cable often, but I really appreciate the effort you put into it. As a new home owner, this video is going to make sure I don't put a bunch of awful looking holes in my brick when I do my eventual network runs.

[@turnerherbek6912]

I've been watching your videos for some time now and I'm excited to say I have a small office install/makeover job this saturday! About 25 drops, a new cabinet, and a commscope patch panel. I'm excited to finally apply the stuff I've learned from you videos in the real world! Before and after pictures to come...

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

That sounds awesome!! I do love the comnmscope panel. I was just about to work on one before I had my fall.

[@lopezlopez2501]

FiberNinja just found your channel very good I've been doing low voltage for 4 years know in Fresno ca keep videos coming

[@tcpnetworks]

I tend to use only stainless steel outside - it doesn't break down over time. In Australia, we have to make the catenary wires so that they can break away if they are hit by machinery. It's a PITA, but it means that the cable doesn't end up destroying stuff in the roof spaces. Typically, in outdoor installations, we may never use pinch-type strain reliefs, we will use stainless wire, and the aforementioned stainless ties. If it's in a really difficult space (where you must have EWP etc) or cables are being changed around, we'll typically use a sheathed conduit to bear to the catenary, which go into boxes either end - we can then use normal indoor cable, and pack more in.

[@bertblankenstein3738]

Thank you for making these videos. There is always something I learn. Very helpful. There is plenty of bad wiring out there as people didn't know or just didn't care to do it right.

[@emtffzartman666]

Awesome to see you back to making these videos, great info, I learn from every video. Keep up the great work!

[@davidbumpus3457]

You earned my thumbs up on this video for the last 2 minutes where you gave the person that installed the old cable a reasonable excuse for doing it the wrong way. Personally, I would say that they shouldn't be doing that type of work if they are ignorant of the codes/regulations/requirements for running outdoor wiring but you were the bigger person here and didn't point that out. Love your videos and I have learned a whole lot of things that I was unaware of (including the proper way to install outdoor cable runs) and I hope you make more data closet nightmare videos soon.

[@lagoonfreek]

Love the channel and glad you're back. The extra wire on the aerial coaxial cable you pointed out is not a ground wire but a supporting messenger wire. That type of wire is only used to run coaxial cable from a pole to a building and then transitions to standard coaxial cable at the grounding point. The supporting messenger wire is stripped back and only runs between the cable hangers. Nice work on the aesthetics as well.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Ah ha! Ok that's good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[@JeandrePetzer]

Great video :D I really enjoyed this one. It covered a lot

[@Deraco1]

Great instruction video! Thanks for the time you have spent to create this.

[@polestar696]

What a complete mess. Good job they got you to sort it. Good upload.

[@potasio101]

Always learn something new with your videos !!

[@pas3pas365]

There's something so satisfying about your videos. Loving the goatee btw. Keep up the great vids!

[@scwfan08]

Your sense for aesthetics is astonishing.

[@OldLordSpeedy]

Thanks for this video! Wonderful talk and show about this problem!

[@Dog1eg]

Interesting video - Thanks for sharing and teaching.

[@massbobbros]

Keep up the good work man! Hope to see you again soon.

[@tommyamida5951]

Really like this new style of video! Keep it up!

[@jamesonnorth]

Awesome work as always.

[@loganborja158]

Fiber Ninja, you make my day with these videos, you’re the best.

[@daviddk1988]

Great video man, I learnes quite a lot with your videos (this in particular addressed some very good points). Keep them coming man!

[@fourtwozero]

Great to have you back!

[@alomonwo]

FiberNinja thank you for posting these field tech videos. Good job.

[@burleykleve5752]

I like the informative videos!

[@neilit8964]

What an absolute pro!! Your videos are so informative and insightful, as well as entertaining! Hope this channel booms as there is nothing else like it on KZbin.

[@maximilianrosenthal3053]

Thx for the really educational video, I myself am getting into networking and love just such educational videos !!!

[@edmundderek]

Thank you mister, I really love every second of it ... i learned a lot from your perfection, I wished every networking engineer was like you.

[@SyberPrepper]

Another excellent video. Thanks.

[@TJoseph2]

Keep up the great videos Mr. Ninja!

[@jodycwilliams]

Great video.

[@TheJkilla11]

Another awesome vid!

[@phoenixrising1886]

Holy toots! Look at that indoor 'outdoor' cable!! Keep posting videos!! (PS: I love the overhead shots!)

[@anthonyb8405]

i’m so glad to see you making your way back with fresh content. I come from installing video conference systems, commercial networks, catv, etc... so i really can appreciate everything you share with us. i always learn something new just by watching one of your videos. Keep it up!! I wish you the best of luck!!

[@TheLeetsquad]

On the feed from the cable company, that extra wire on the sachs hanger is just a messenger wire to help support the aerial lines

[@nickswebtsv]

I love your videos FiberNinja! I have been watching your channel for about the last three hours - I have also been watching the Ads aswell. Hopefully, I have supported you and things will get better soon for you. I've previously done work similar to you and the way you talk and describe your work with such passion reminds me of myself. Thanks for what your are doing, I've also learnt lots also! Thanks.

[@pierrelezan]

thanks, I've lear a lot from your videos

[@BaldurNorddahl]

Remember that some outdoor cables are not suitable for indoor use. These cables may not comply with fire code. It could burn too easily or produce too much smoke. Therefore: indoor cables for indoor and outdoor cable for outdoor.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

VERY interesting to hear! I wouldn't have guessed that but I can sort of see where that could be a possibility. I'm going to make a note of this to mention to the viewership in the near future.

[@stanilastefan1687]

A rated quality ethernet cable should have inscribed on it some kind of description of the outer jacket material. Here are some markings that you may find: PVC - some flexible version of pvc PUR - polyurethane, usually the black outdoor cable ( red or green version for industrial enviroment) FRNC - Flame Retardant Non-Corrosive LS0H or LSZH- Low smoke Zero halogen.

[@mikel9567]

While you make a good point, most fire codes in the United States don't cover data cables. A Cat5 or Cat6 cable giving off smoke is the least of the worries. Electrical cables on the other hand are heavily regulated. I haven't seen any codes for PoE but I would err on the side of caution in those circumstances.

[@Zizzily]

Most fire codes generally require plenum rated cabling in drop ceilings/ventilation.

[@clmccomas]

Most code allows you bring in a outdoor or direct burial rated cable into a building for a number of feet to terminate in a equipment room.

[@AndrewFrink]

I know this is super old now, but @15:05, the HellermanTyton zip ties are very likely acceptable for field use in an air handler, but would absolutly need to be inspected for by the factory. The bag is showing that they are cURus rated. This means they are a recognized component, and need to be installed in the correct way for them to meet their ratings. (I've had to learn waaaayyy too much about product listings in the last 2 years).

[@jgurtz]

I worked at a utility company once and we did use outdoor-rated ethernet cables to connect outbuildings. The cable was actually filled with silicone grease. Always a fun time when terminating. Then there was the metro fiber network that happened. ATT had some threatening lawyers so, up goes self-supporting SM fiber in the electrical space instead of the comms space. FU ATT lol! The self-support for this special use was enabled by the structural member being made of kevlar instead of steel. No stray conductors allowed in the med. voltage electrical space! Final comment is that nowadays, I would always recommend running only fiber between buildings for data. Have experienced issues with nearby lightning and (actually worse) issues with stray current/ground loops in the building electrical system causing signal drop (uggg!). So now, only fiber between buildings! Hope you are safe from the Corona virus!

[@pipletjomphe6804]

I notice that your turnbuckle were not locket witch meen that it could unloose it's self with vibration, you should alway's pass the end of your steel cable inside the loop of the turnbuckle and just ending it passing thru the eyebolt. This is done from comming back with a longer end cable from the end of your 3 cables lock, looping back toward the turn buckle, pass thru and in to lthe eye bolt. This is to prevent them from untighten from the vibration caused from the wind. If i can find a photo showing this method, i will place it on this channel. All the rest is a great job with great ccommitment for clean and reliable cabling. Thumb's up for the team.

[@CDArena]

Fascinating to see all that old telephone hardware again; we used to use those wedge loops with Telephone Aerial Drop cable, a 2-conductor cable with a hardy rubber insulation. I like the idea of running a support strand to support your data cables - that could even work indoors in many situations as a way to keep cables up off the drop ceilings. J hooks are great, but sometimes the roof architecture isn't J-hook friendly.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Hmm... Now that's interesting. I wouldn't have thought of using a stainless steel rope cable to support Ethernet cables indoors! But you bring up a good potential use when architecturally there isn't a good place to secure it and remain off the drop ceiling tiles.

[@imark7777777]

" what is a drip Loop " that was the response I got from the DirecTV installers when I said as long as you can get enough of a drip Loop before it goes into the house, I'm fine With you reusing the cable. I just heard that they are not allowed to reuse the ends on the cable and have to re terminate, but that doesn't explain why they always have to cut up everything and undo my grounding and leave my antenna ungrounded! I even asked Comcast to leave the satellite connection alone in case me or the future homeowner wanted it, nah they have to redo it. PS my installation now has stickers that reference the NEC code that mentions that all! materials must be bonded before entering the house.

[@optroncordian7863]

Once I had a POE adapter blown because of the water ingress through the cable from outside. Interestingly, the defective adapter then blew the equipment it powered. It was a Nanostation access point. I had to replace the adapter, the access point and the cable. All bad for good, now I placed e more recent type of access points, so now the network works better.

[@bluthefox]

I work for a Telco and come across plenum or otherwise non outdoor rated cable being run outdoors pretty frequently, usually the feed into a home from the NID, but I have only come across the combo of indoor cable outside without a drip loop. The end result was a defective cable into the home and a damaged ceiling tile in the basement.

[@JoeDoeOutdoors]

Hii awesome channel ☺ Keep it up!

[@devinstated09]

On that RG11 Drop from the cable company, the secondary wire is called a "messenger wire" and is used to take strain off of the Coax drop. Love your videos, just figured it was worth noting.

[@imark7777777]

Wow that cables is probably actually wicking the moisture in! And it's probably copper-clad aluminum or steel something that rusts😰

[@CaladorPTN]

Love the channel and your new desk set up! In this latest video, you have some really cool background screens going. I was hoping you'd be willing to let us in on what you have running back there. Thanks! Learn a great deal in this video, I ran some cheaper lines to a camera, tucked in rather well so not exposed to the elements. But you've definitely steered me in the right direction for future work and replacing my mistakes once I am able. Thank you so much for the videos!

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Thanks for your kind words!! Check the video description. I added links to all 4 of the displays I was running at the beginning. They're all basically "live data" websites that look cool to me!

[@CaladorPTN]

Wow, Thanks! For the links and the custom descriptions! Your dedication and time is appreciated! Viewed them all and bookmarked, thanks agian!

[@lonewolfgeoff]

thank god you were called in to undo the idiot (or badly informed/educated in using outside cables technician) who did the job first's screwup! your job looks well better! if only they had called you in first!!! dripping cables... 😱😳 scarey! i like the tutorial at the end, really drives home exactly what you mean in such a way that you get it there and then... cold. im never going to forget it even if i never actually DO that type of job! i never realised cable ties were "rated" indoor only or indoor/outdoor, ive just used them for both... that explains the broken ties i once had! (i thought it was just faulty! now i know differently!) your great at what you do, your a great teacher, you work harder than your vids show imho! im so glad i subbed months ago, never ever looked back since! 😊

[@clmccomas]

I'm a big believer in running fiber between buildings to avoid lighting near strikes or ground potential electrical surge damage. But sometimes you have to provide what the customer can afford. Did you consider installing surge suppressors? Ubiquiti surge suppressors are around $15 each.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I actually hadn't but you and a couple of others here mentioned using them. I usually will use them with outdoor antennas but I can easily see aerial cables also in need of surge protection. Thx!!

[@tcpnetworks]

The main issue with using surge protectors is that, in particular with the Critec or Ubiquiti units, you need to ensure the earths are bonded at as close to zero ohms on the run. UBNT's own recommendations are that both ends share an equipotential bonding conductor - Catenary wires likewise should be bonded to an equipotential bond. This implies that for cable runs such as this, where (especially in the US where piss-weak 110V is used) the likelihood that you aren't on the same transformer, (and hence not using the same Neutral and same centre-tap and earth) you will end up with an earth loop. This will not only kill signal, it could also kill equipment. This is the best reason for fibre - breaking those earths....

[@imark7777777]

The only thing this video lacked was talking about grounding between buildings it is generally a good idea to have a surge/ground block and in most places required by code. as the cable can act like a ground carrier carrying current from one building to the other with the tendency of frying equipment. This is why Fiber is generally used between buildings as it is optically isolated.

[@iseeker3845]

Yes. I don’t understand why most of these type of vids don’t talk about grounding. These cables introduce a potentially destructive pathway in to the building.

[@imark7777777]

@@iseeker3845 all it takes is a bad electrical bonding somewhere and next thing you know the network is the least path of resistance. It's even worse if a neutral is lost.

[@AvidSurvivalist]

There it is again! Plenum! They talked about plenum cables in both my A+ class and my current Security+ class.

[@webluke]

Good info, I knew how most of this works but never used it. Knowing about outdoor and indoor is basic stuff I would thing the original guy should have known, probably just too cheep to spend the extra $150 on another box of cable. Nice pro install on your part! Keep up the new videos :D

[@luvdady]

Good video

[@bertblankenstein3738]

At 7:00 that is called a "pre-form". I usually see those being used for holding downguys in aerial pole line construction, not for holding cable.

[@noferblatz]

I've seen this kind of strain relief used with RG58/59 TV cable. Matter of fact it's being used on my house currently. RG58/59 has a pretty hefty sheath on it.

[@chrispistocco]

Super Duper video!!!

[@johnmarshall6950]

cool thanx for the cool content

[@jovetj]

Pro tip: The steel cable holding up the other cable(s) is called a _messenger wire._

[@bertblankenstein3738]

And when it is directly attached, the whole thing is carried a "figure 8" cable.

[@nemoo393]

Hi FiberNinja, as always what a great video with tons of great tips and tricks on how to run a cable outdoor!!! Could you not make a video on how to properly penetrate a roof and keep the waterproof seal? I know you want to avoid it in every case but if there actually is not any other option how would you do it properly? Thanks for all your work teaching the world on how to properly run cables.

[@davebeedon3424]

Nice clean-up of another mess! I loved the big drip loop on the building's exterior. It was interesting to learn how a strain relief device works. However, I did not hear you say why it is used. Some viewers might need more information. Isn't it true that in this outdoor case such a device grips a suspended cable in a way that minimizes strains on the cable's sheath and wires? It does that by eliminating sharp edges (teeth, staples, etc.) against the cable and eliminating the tight radii inherent in loops that are tied in the cable and draped over a rigid connector such as a screw hook. Tight radii put stresses on a cable, possibly leading to degradation of the cable.

[@wlan246]

16:20 The "CMP" means it's plenum-rated. UV-rated cable is usually marked "CMX". (Riser cable is CMR, and run-of-the-mill cable is just "CM".)

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Excellent! Thanks for that. You saved me having to look up those codes again.

[@LeviDurham]

Not all CMX is UV-rated. CMX is a very low fire rating and should typically be in a conduit, though it's often ran as residential in-wall where the fire code is less stringent.

[@wlan246]

Yeah, next to the specific industry specifications of CM/CMR/CMP, CMX seems more like a marketing term. All I know for sure is, when I look up outdoor-rated and UV-rated cable, in my recollection it has always been marked CMX.

[@MrFloris]

Yesh! More fiber ninja videos!!

[@DaleBriggs243]

I recommend that aerial cable attached to strand, be lashed rather than twisted. This avoids the cable moving and potentially loosening. You should also install any outside plane cable into fused cat5/cat6 ground blocks on each building entrance.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Excellent suggestions!! I will take note of this and mention it in one of my upcoming videos soon.

[@DaleBriggs243]

FiberNinja keep up the good work. Always a pleasure to see a craftsman that cares

[@kizmetmars]

Anyone remember in the movie Predator when Billy cuts the vines to drink from them? 3:23 yeah...

[@sparkyprojects]

The best way to open a ring on that bolt is more of a twist, same way you open and close a jump ring in jewelry ;)

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I'm not familiar with jewelry work so can you explain that a little more please?

[@sparkyprojects]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3jScmCFj8-pgcU

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Oh ok I see what you mean there! Very interesting!! I'm going to try that today in my shop and see what I can do. Thx!!

[@sparkyprojects]

You may even find that you only need one set of grips with those eyebolts, the bolt itself providing the leverage

[@hwesson75]

Which reminds me... I don't use it any more, so I probably need to pull the cat6 patch cable I ran from the house to the shed with a couple of those strain reliefs some few years back before it starts rotting... >_> House wi-fi was only about 30-40' away, but, metal building. So, a spare bit of cable run out the window, and an old defunct modem/router re-purposed as an access point, and it was great!(*) (*)except for one time when a squirrel decided cat6 was an excellent thing to chew on...

[@Shattered_Sanity]

Very nice video! Very informative indeed, kudos my good man! Quite some time ago I was called to install a cable from the main box of the telephone company/ISP down to the building of the cafeteria/bar. None of the owners wanted an aerial cable, so I had to install it on the wall/fence. Long story short, it was a freaking nightmare! I only had very few places to hold the cable, and as much as I hated it, I had to go along some power cables; they did not give me much of a choice, even after I told them why it was a bad idea, and even after my old classmate who works for the telephone company/ISP told them the same things. Regardless, I delivered, and I even used a cable with 8 pairs so that if they decided to have additional lines (they already had 2), they could have 2 more. It was a good experience for me, even though I never had anyone to show me, or anyone help me with that. Only when I ended, I called my old classmate to connect the phone/internet lines on the main box (here in Greece only guys from the telephone companies/ISPs and power corporation companies can interact with the main boxes/meters), and showed him what I had done. I was told that it was not the ideal standard-wise, but under the circumstances it was the best choice and a job well done. Three years ago, when the telephone company installed an optical fiber junction box very close to my house, I decided to upgrade my connection to VDSL with 50mbps down and 5mbps up; the best connection offered here on the island I currently live at. I was told that they could not do the cable installation themselves, and that I would have to do that on my own. I asked an electrician friend of mine for some hints and tips to install the self-sustaining cable from the telephone company. It was the first time ever I had used strain relief and cable hooks, and pretty much the first time I attempted something like that (my first would be on the case I mentioned above), and my electrician friend told me that it was a job well done, and as it should be done. So yeah, I was very proud of myself for that job while I was not told how I should had done that, but what I should had used. And of course it was thanks to that that I can have a 50mbps down and 5mbps up connection (48something down, almost 5 up, the best connection in the island) to play with. But enough with me, I really enjoyed your video and the memories it brought up. I hope you get better soon and I can not wait for more of your amazing videos! A subscriber from Greece. ~Valk.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Definitely sounds like a nightmare! Was the cable run bare along the fences / wall or was it to be run in conduit? I would imagine using conduit would solve a lot of the issues with potential cable damage or support limitations...

[@Shattered_Sanity]

I had used a similar (if not better) cable that the phone company used which can withstand sun, UV light, heat, cold, rain, humidity, etc etc, and I ran it along the walls and the fence which was a concrete one. Four years have passed, and when I went to check it a month ago, it as as good as new after the rain cleaned it up. Still, a great learning experience. As for how some things should be done, and how they are done, let's just say that some people will not want to spend some extra money for better protection and are of the "If it breaks I will change it" mindset, and not even regulations mean anything to them. If it was not for tricking them (yes, it is bad, but regulations are there for everyone's safety) it would be some cheap Cat.5e that they initially wanted me to install.

[@BaldurNorddahl]

Here it is against code to run ethernet cables too close to power cable. The idea is that high voltage could cross to the low voltage cable if you have a fault. However it is also against code to have fiber cables in the same conduit as power and nobody knows why.

[@Shattered_Sanity]

Same here, but the clients would not budge at all. It is unfortunate that some people will give no single damn about regulations. Also, it is not just the cross from high to low voltage, but also the line noise, static, etc etc.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Oh I can definitely tell you why on that one. The problem with fiber is that it is much less durable than conventional power cable. The risks with having power and fiber share the same conduit is that pulling a new line will easily rub against the fiber outer jacket and wear through from the friction. Now there may very well be varieties of fiber cable out there with tough outer jackets, but this regulation was made when just the simple orange or yellow outer jackets were all you had and they are significantly less durable than pretty much anything else in the cabling field. For that matter, we're pretty much never allowed to pull new fiber through old fiber conduits unless the original fiber is inside of an "inner -duct" which is usually just a smaller, flexible tubing that will protect it from other cables inside the conduit. I'm going to be covering more about fiber in the near future but I hope this helps for the time being!

[@michamus]

New Fiber Ninja video? Count my lucky stars!

[@tarasque01]

I still use Winamp as well.

[@jeffnagel918]

my tip, cable tie bags should only have a hole poked in the center of the bag. Expect the ties to fall out all over the place if you open at the ends.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I actually was going to mention that in this video but I think I'll do it for the mid-week video I'm working on tonight! Thanks for the reminder!!

[@undergod1987]

I actually just take all the ties out and wrap them up with one zip tie.. Making it easy to get to them rather than fighting the bag.

[@rescdsk]

I think I've heard that tar rather than silicone should be used to seal asphalt roof penetrations? Love your videos by the way.

[@linearburn8838]

i have used indore cable outside but only for a temp run that is going to be replaced and burryed with proper cable with in a week or 2

[@linearburn8838]

even indors cable will last a week or 2 in the rain and sun

[@richardgraham65]

Cable ties from Nylon 6/6 is uv stable.

[@gtbarsi1103]

If the original installer did their work as a professional and was paid as a professional then they should have known about outdoor rated as well as structural cable. As you pointed out if the cable does not say outdoor rated then it is not, and any professional should know that. Additionally any professional before taking on a job like this should do some research if they are not already familiar with the type of job they are about to do.

[@mitchbennett5576]

Fiber ninja, best patch panel for a home network install as well as keystone Jack's for the wall plates please and thank you. Love your videos

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Thanks, I think I'll put my thoughts on that for an upcoming video project.

[@CDArena]

Question: have you ever run into situations where you Ethernet run is too far, and had to use a POE powered Ethernet repeater? We had great success using one of these to add a single Ethernet drop to a neighboring building: we ran indoor cat 5 at pretty much the 200 meter limit to our outside wall penetration, mounted the repeater there, then ran outdoor cat 5 thru the wall and along a fence connecting the two buildings and into the other building where the drop was needed.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Only once before have I encountered this. In our case, I went to fiber to span the distance and used media converters at each end. It was a fairly inexpensive project.

[@dugnisD]

One punch down kid is back 9:47 from #22! :O

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

LOL yes! You could be right. Maybe that kid is following me...

[@jamesalanjob]

I see indoor cable used outdoor all the time. I was in an airport yesterday and saw bundles of indoor cable strung across some roofs below. A friend one ran indoor cable to his garage but didn’t want to spend the money on outdoor stuff. Personally I wouldn’t do it, I always use outdoor cable and try to go below ground. Fibre would have been nice for future proofing. One thing thou, could you not have taken the cable through the building and out the other side rather than running it over the roof?

[@MrLuizFerrari]

Ah, so refreshing to see a good installation. In what circumstances would you suggest to lay one (or more?) extra cable to offer some more reliability to the network?

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Actually, we had planned on sending out 2 cables for that very reason. In fact, there were 2 cables run originally. Sadly, missed-judged how much cable I had in the truck and we had to work with what were riding with. It was a good 3 hour drive to this site and I wasn't about to cancel this work just for that!

[@MrRantWhy]

great to see you are back. would you have used a cable that had the support already attached to the cable or was that a cost thing. Also what are your thoughts on copper clad Ethernet cables? are they worth the cost savings ? Thanks.

[@Youtuber88588]

MrRantWhy Copper Clad cables do not meet spec and shouldn't be used.

[@iamciel5429]

Gotta love the beard XD

[@whatevernamegoeshere3644]

11:38 The crazy russian hacker method for lock breaking is garbage. Hold the two wrenches up and down to drag the shackle out instead of into the material on the sides. It needs a fraction of the force. Lockpickinglawyer had a video on that one On the other hand, we ran a PVC outdoor cable to our garage. I never knew it could get so bad on just the sun for a few years. Definitely changing it out. Thank you!

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I actually saw that video by LPL a while after this video! While it wasn't the best way to pop a lock open, it sure helped me open up an eye bold! Glad to know I helped prevent a problem in the future!!

[@peterfrisch8373]

Excellent, thank you. Yes, MOST informative! While you are on the subject of outdoors, how would you handle cabling through buried PVC conduit? Assuming the conduit is water tight.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Good question! First of all, never consider a conduit or pipe that's buried to be waterproof. It never turns out that way. First of all, you have condensation to deal with and over time that can product a very large amount of water inside the watertight PVC! I would select the same cable as if it were just going into the soil. The term is "direct burial" cable. It can withstand UV light, being submerged, and has a fairly tough outer jacket. I have seen plenty of deteriorated indor-only-rated cable run in conduits outside. Best to just use outdoor-rated cable.

[@peterfrisch8373]

@@FiberNinjaStudios , thanks again! I was not considering indoor cable after seeing your outdoor video. I must admit that I was before seeing that video. Yup, direct burial cable is the CYA. I assume the same for fibre as well. Either material would mean fewer cables than the indoor equivalent. Go big or go home. Thanks again.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

You are correct about fiber. Besides, the cost difference is not nearly as much as people think. Just know that you can only go so far inside a building with outdoor cable because the fire ratings are drastically different and may cause harm inside. You typically want to terminate the outdoor cable as soon as possible once it enters the inside space.

[@anthonykwong496]

I would of added surge suppressors on the ethernet line. Whenever I have ethernet cables leaving the envelope of a building, I use simple UBNT surge protectors (ETH-SP). If the cable re-enters a different building, I add a second one. Obviously the surge protector needs to be grounded. Ideally when possible, I run shielded patch cords up to the switch. I rather sacrifice a $20 surge protector versus a switch or the whole network. I do it for outdoor AP, bridges and even security cams.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Great point! Thx.

[@anthonykwong496]

Beware of the ETH-SP. Some WISP installers have complained about intermittent connectivity issues but that was a long time ago. Not sure if it was a bad batch. I've been using them for a few years on my exterior cams and have no issue. WISP installers usually have the ETH-SP on a tower so vibration and other factors might be a cause. In my case, they are all installed on the wall near the rack. Next thing is these units are rated 10/100. If you have inter-building links, usually 10/100/1000 is desired. Finally, it it recommended to have the unit installed nearest the point when it penetrates the building however most of the time, it's too difficult to run a grounding cable from the panel to that location so I ask the electrician to install a grounding bus near my rack, then ground all the ETH-SP and my rack to the grounding bus.

[@Zizzily]

ETH-SP is 10/100/1000 rated: dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/ETH-SP/Ethernet_Surge_Protector_DS.pdf

[@anthonykwong496]

Oops my bad. I must of mixed it with another model that I was thinking of using. Can't remember the brand. .

[@JohnWatkinsUK]

A drip loop would not have stopped that water making it's way inside. Once you have a break in your cable water will wick inside and then suck more in as it falls down the cable. We have this situation at work sometimes with outdoor rated CAT5e up radio masts. The temporary fix (if the wires are still working) is to cut 10cm or so of the sheath off, to let the water drip out in a controlled manner. Drip loops only prevent water on the outside of the cable entering the building. Edit: You have a single boot on your desk :o|

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

YES!!! You're the first one to notice!! I have a broken heel bone so I'm down to one boot. I figured I'd put the other one on the desk for the time being.

[@stuartwhittaker1105]

is that your new boot loader :)

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Good one

[@CDArena]

Or use an outdoor rated, PIC filled cable, which contains a jelled water repellent product.

[@undergod1987]

I have seen some put a slight cut at the bottom of the drop loop to allow the water to drip out.. But if your going to do some major outdoor jellyfilled is the answer. just got to get used to making an end with that.

[@jenniferwhite6089]

cable ties are very important to have the right one to use I am in a cold weather environment found out the hard way -40 you that guy has to go out to fix the other person jobs did not at the time I was buying them to replace the ties was anything like that lucky I found out and found them very costly item here but they work did the UV one with the cold ties

[@GotWire]

Looks like att wire techs work Haha

[@bertbergers9171]

Hi there I am wondering if hydrostatic pressure due to the pitch of the cable would still put water throughout the mantle whether there was a driploop or not? Ow and maybe even the capilairy effect would be enough to raise the water inside in a driploop? I always thouht driploops were for outside water running along the mantle and falling from the bottom of the loop (dripping)

[@DAVIDGREGORYKERR]

Drip loops stop water getting into electrical units, can you not use fibre optical cables by Corning with associated Ethernet to fibre optical adaptors.

[@PrivateTech35]

Do a tool bag/ box review

[@TechnoDelta]

attaching to the rain gutters slightly concerns me about the storm seasons.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Can you elaborate? I really don't see any harm due to this location...

[@TechnoDelta]

I thought it was in Florida, and the hurricane season is starting. If not then no biggy. Also really enjoying your videos. My dad works for Uen and does this kind of stuff all over Ut.

[@therocket81]

Question: What about earthquakes and winds? Should the steel cable have more slack to handle some movements of the buildings?

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Not really. There's already a decent amount of slack. But if the buildings start swaying (mind you, these are single story buildings here), they tend to sway together. Also, if this this small span of a line needs significantly more slack, I'm sure the integrity of the network cable is the least of their concerns!!

[@iseeker3845]

What about earthing to protect against lightning?

[@cammelspit]

If you use conduit, you should be fine though, right? I know it is not necessarily correct and all but I had a cat5e running between two houses in some simple PVC pipe I buried in the ground and it lasted well over 15 years and the only reason I had to replace it is because someone else cut it too short and I didnt have enough slack to reterminate tyhe cable properly. I actually just replaced it with 4 Cat6 lines and they also are normal every day indoor cable. I live in Arizona so the heat and more importantly the UV from the sun is what kills cables out here. I do have one remaining exposed cable and I end up having to replace it every season. It's just temporary though till I can get out there and run more conduit.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I've seen many examples of indoor-rated cable placed in conduit that didn't fare well in the weather. Your particular situation benefited from being buried and well hidden away from the UV light that does most of the damage. Still, it would have been more ideal to use a "direct burial" cable or some sort of outdoor cable in this situation. Underground conduit tends to get flooded and it would be better if the cable inside was designed to withstand that.

[@michaelbradley713]

In the intro, what is on that left most monitor in the background?

[@uandgd7642]

What about lightning protection ?

[@figpal4381]

Nothing like low bid cabling contractors.

[@88djdmepfdnkjf94]

@13:42 that netgear has vents on the side and its jammed hard against the metal shelf. not sure how you found it but that thing is probably molten now.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I didn't catch that but if there were a problem I'd be notified about it even though I'm not their usual support guy, the person whom is is who hired me for this work.