1:350 Scale HMS Prince of Wales Model with Super-detail Upgrade Kit

[@paulkilllins954]

David, Beautiful work! I am also a builder of ship models and prefer 1/350 scale. I prefer, what you call, Admiralty models. I’m following your build of the Trumpeter 1/350 scale HMS Hood since it is in my build queue. Keep up the great work.

[@MARSRigel1]

Absolutely brilliant work there. I can only agree that the Pontos detail kit really makes this kit from 1986 shine bright. One question tho, did you used a matt varnish or a satin varnish on your model? At least on video it seems like the hull is covered in a varnish typ.

[@DavidsShips]

On this model I used Tamiya XF-86. I have not been very happy with XF-86, which is supposed to be matt but appears a bit glossy. Recently I have switched to Mr. Color 182 which I think has a better finish, but I am still testing it out.

[@steveowens9795]

Hi David I am relatively new to the hobby, a huge fan of the channel and currently building the Tamiya POW with the Pontos set and I was wondering if you could help me in locating where the ships bell is mounted. I have scanned the Pontos instructions and your video and I just can't pinpoint it.

[@DavidsShips]

Welcome to the hobby and the channel! I have double checked my kit, its instructions, and the in game model in World of Warship and I also can't find where the bell should go! I still have the bell in the box so if you ever discover where it should go let me know.

[@Czaderblader]

Kurwa jego mać, ten kamuflaż to jest jakaś masakra. Potne się zanim go skończę...

[@tmac3090]

I would have loved to see a video on how you prepped and installed the wooden deck. I’m starting this phase of my build on the fore deck. From what I can tell, almost ALL the plastic from the kit gets removed in this section. I’m curious to know how you prepped the areas around the anchor chains. Did you remove all this plastic then install the Pontos pieces on top of the wooden deck? Specifically, I’m not sure how to deal with the long middle section where the chains rest. It looks like you cut out the wooden deck to let the plastic underneath protrude. The Pontos images of this area show only wooden deck in this section which implies that all the plastic should be removed.

[@DavidsShips]

In general I followed the same process in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYPRnH6urZybq7c As you noticed, the main difference is that for the PoW most of the plastic is removed from the deck and replaced with resin and photo-etch. On my model the photo-etch strips for the anchor chains, the openings for the hawse pipes, and the base of capstans are all on top of the wooden deck. I have old, and not very good pictures, where you can see the deck after installation on the hull and before anything was installed on the deck. If you would like these pictures send me an email using my channel email address.

[@BrianSmith-dm4lf]

Hi David. Quick question about the photo etch on the top bridge ……how did you figure out the angles for the bending and assembly? B

[@DavidsShips]

If you are referring to the replacement bulkhead, I would have bent it to the approximate shape and then adjusted it while gluing it to the ship.

[@giuseppe4909]

I know this video is 3 yrs old, but …when you discuss rigging, I often use very lightweight monofilament nylon line. 2lb rated fishing line for example. You can attach it with CA glue. You only need to get it somewhat taut, as you can come back later with a heat source and it will shrink and tighten right up. I have used that method for all sorts of rigging, long before EZ line was around. EZ line is nice and much more forgiving, but there are times when monofilament line works better. Cheers.

[@DavidsShips]

Thanks for the suggestion! There certainly are times when having rigging that doesn't stretch is useful. It makes me think back to when I re-rigged the Nagato model.

[@giuseppe4909]

@@DavidsShips You’re very welcome. I really enjoy your videos - right to the point, well lit, clear and concise english, excellent subject matter… Well done !

[@kieljay1]

Brilliant model . How did you fix the railings in place ?

[@DavidsShips]

I either use thick superglue that I put on the railing with a toothpick and then place the railing on the kit or I place the railing on the kit first and then fill the gap with extra thin superglue. In the video that will be released this Friday I will show a bit of photoetch work. I don't install railing in that video but you will see how I work with photoetch in general.

[@rogerbogh3884]

Great video... I like how you choose ship models. I think my first will be the 'Prince of Wales' and the 'Scharnhorst'. They are beautiful ships with a bit of history together. Like you, I will probably lightly weather them to pull the details out. Many thanks

[@rogerbogh3884]

Oops, meant 'Duke of York' - a sister ship of your selection

[@andredegraaf1643]

Great job on that camouflage. I will be attempting the same ship in 1/700 scale. My style is heavy weathered mainly because I am a brush painter and weathering hides imperfections in my painting.

[@mohdlotfiibrahim3831]

Original one was sent to protect Malaya from Japanese invasion but ended up sink about 70km from Kuantan... condolences for the family of officer and the sailors of the ship.

[@joshuariddensdale2126]

I have Hood, Bismarck, Prinz Eugen, and Repulse in my collection. Now I'm planning to build Prince Of Wales to complete both sets.

[@allenpfister5429]

Fantastic work. Question though. Where do you get Pontos upgrade kits in RSA? I am in GP and nobody has them up here.

[@DavidsShips]

Detail kits for ships are very rare in SA, I don't think there are any distributors here for those manufacturers. I have always had to import them.

[@rhondajones1313]

Great video. You were saying you figured out how to safely weather the ships. My self I have not figured that out yet. Can you point me in the right direction? I have no problem on making them look brand new but I want age on them.

[@DavidsShips]

I go for a very light effect, I just want them to look more realistic. In this video I start the weathering process on the Roma: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHLLpHWeYtSjbNU You can find weathering in almost every video in the Roma build playlist starting from part 7. I put timestamps in the comments of all my videos so just look for "weathering" and jump straight to that part of the video. The most important thing to do is to apply a gloss acrylic varnish and then weather on top of it using enamel and/or oil paint. Enamel and oil paint can be removed with mineral turpentine/white spirits without damaging acrylic paint.

[@johnmclean6498]

Lovely clean and painstaking work - especially on the camo scheme. What a nightmare! It makes for a spectacular result. Do you have any idea what those forward and aft pointing barb-like things are above the fire directors? First time I've seen them. Maybe range-finders? Cheers.

[@DavidsShips]

I think you are referring to the antennas for the Type 285 radars.

[@shaun310165]

Model looks fantastic. Where did you find the rigging layouts as I haven't found anything that clearly shows the rigging

[@DavidsShips]

Thanks! When building this kit I used multiple pictures and drawings to give me direction. I doubt that the rigging is totally correct but I think it is a reasonable approximation. Nowadays when rigging a model I use 3D models from computer games. I go through the process in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nofbXmijjL2Al8U

[@tmac3090]

Excellent work, David! Your attention to detail is admirable, to say the least! I’m at the beginning of this build and am using your finished model as a guide. I’ve been trying to duplicate the blue-grey colour on the top of the turrets. What paint did you use here?

[@DavidsShips]

Thank you! I used the colours recommended by Tamiya. The colour I think you are referring to is XF-53.

[@tmac3090]

@@DavidsShips Thanks for the reply. Yes, Tamiya recommends XF-53 (Neutral Grey), but yours looks more blue than my XF-53. I ended up mixing equal parts XF-53 and XF-50 (Field Blue) and am finally satisfied! I'm enjoying your series on the Hood, by the way. Keep up the good work!

[@anthonynichols8468]

Loving this model David. Would like to know you removal of plastic techniques when replacing with etched brass. The catapult system and the funnel guards on your model looks amazing.

[@DavidsShips]

For the most part photo-etch outright replaces plastic parts, so it is more a matter of not using a part than removing plastic. When it comes to details on the deck, like the catapult rails, I usually don't have to be too careful. I like to use wooden decks and those will conceal the tool marks from removing the plastic. Examples of where I removed plastic on the deck but did not cover it with a wood deck would be for the rails around the catapult on the Nagato and the boat stands on the Roma. In those cases I clip down the plastic as far as I can, and then I use a fine grinding stone on a Dremel to remove the last bit of plastic.

[@richardsevers7686]

Great paint job. I would have added3D search lights

[@DavidsShips]

If you mean the Micro Master ones, yes, I would very much like to get some of those. I have looked at them a number of times and have wondered if they are as good as they look. To make the shipping worth it I would need to spend around $300 but I have been unwilling to make a blind commitment for that price.

[@BrianSmith-dm4lf]

I have this model to build and look forward to it! I have the Pontos photo etch and deck. I just cannot figure out the best way to proceed. Do the deck first then the photo etch, assemble everything and then air brush the hull and everything else. Just cannot get the painting sequence with ruining the deck finish. Sure could use some direction. Thanks in advance. Your videos are the best of a lot I have seen and I have a ton. Brian in cold Canada

[@DavidsShips]

You are very kind, I am still very much learning this KZbin thing. Before I begin I need to give you the standard disclaimer. The approach I use works for me, it may not work for you. There are many routes you can take to build a ship so don't treat my advice as definitive. Broadly, these are my steps: 1. Construct the hull and deck 2. Install basic PE on the hull (By basic I mean PE that is not delicate, like hatches.) 3. Install the wooden deck 4. Construct the superstructure in levels, do not glue the levels together 5. Test fit the levels 6. Install basic PE on the levels 7. Paint the levels 8. Install the levels on the ship 9. Install delicate PE 10. Weathering 11. Install rigging Depending on what I am confronted with I have to make variations to the above. The RN Roma build series shows most of this. There are a few things to note if you watch those videos. 1. I was weathering as I built, it works but adds a lot of time. I don't think that is necessary for HMS Prince of Wales. 2. I only started this channel part way through that build. You will see the process from around step 4 above. 3. The superstructure of Roma is much more complicated than that of HMS Prince of Wales. If you want to see a build from the very beginning take a look at the HMS Hood series. Step 4 above will start in video 28 in the series. The process is the same but the painting is easier since it does not have disruptive camouflage. I am in the process of creating a playlist of shorts for the HMS Hood build series. The intention is for them to serve as an index so that viewers can easily find the full length video with the information they are looking for. The idea is to release a short a day until caught up with the full length videos. They might help you find what you need.

[@BrianSmith-dm4lf]

@@DavidsShips I am so pleased that you got back to me. The steps of the build are exactly what I needed….and it makes perfect sense. I will be busy watching the other videos of Rn Rona and the Hood. I am truly inspired and have considerably more confidence thanks to you! I am retired and the Prince of Wales Tamiya model with Pontos photetch and deck was a gift from my daughter. Forty some years of trademan plumber/steamfitter, I have always had a high degree of excellence in my work ethic and would like to put that thought into the build. This is what I noticed in your building as well….planning and approach, practicality and extreme detail….i like that! Thanks again. Brian

[@nicholasarmstrong2676]

Where did you find the draft markings decals? I noticed you have them on both port and starboard sides forward, amidships and aft. I've only found them in 1/350 for small ships, but I'm trying to upgrade my own Tamiya POW.

[@DavidsShips]

They came with the Tamiya kit I used to build that model, TA78011.

[@nicholasarmstrong2676]

@@DavidsShips Thanks for that info. Mine must have been an older model as it didn't have any.

[@deusexmachina6260]

Great job!

[@nnoddy8161]

What period in '41 was this model meant to represent? I note that she still has her UP launchers, but additional 20mm cannon?

[@DavidsShips]

The kit only states 1941. The exact period, or if Pontos got it wrong, is not something that I have the knowledge to answer.

[@МихаилПрокопьев-ы8ь]

@@DavidsShips there's actually a mistake: if painted like you did, PoW should have been wearing 40mm pom-poms on the roofs of turrets A and Y. That's what she looked like on December 7, Battle of Malakka Strait. And if the UP mountigs are present, the ship is built for the Battle of Denmark Strait and should've been all in Home Fleet Grey. Steel looking good, keep up!

[@skylinegtr336]

Fantastic work! What sources did you use to set the rigging? I’m currently working on a 1/700 and not sure where to fix the rigging.

[@DavidsShips]

The Tamiya 1:350 PoW box has a painting guide on the side of the box that also shows the rigging. I am not sure about the accuracy of that schematic. It is very difficult to make out the rigging in old photos for verification.

[@johnweston1394]

@@DavidsShips On page 17 in the instruction manual there is a very detailed picture of the rigging, no doubt David you have already seen it. Your models are the best and most detailed that I have seen on KZbin, have you done a video of how you do your rigging?

[@DavidsShips]

@@johnweston1394 Yes, I have two. In this one I make corrections to the Nagato's and Yamato's rigging: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmiui32vhb56mLM In this one I rig Roma: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nofbXmijjL2Al8U

[@johnweston1394]

Your paintwork is remarkable, did you use the colours recommended in the kit?

[@DavidsShips]

Thanks! Yes, the colours are the same as recommended in the kit.

[@johnweston1394]

@@DavidsShips I am building the Tamiya King George 350 scale, the lifeboats are marked for Flat White/Sea Blue but yours look better in red, could you please tell me which red you have used.

[@DavidsShips]

@@johnweston1394 I've checked the manual and it seems that for that colour I did not follow the guide. I am not sure why I chose that colour... anyway, it looks like either Linoleum Deck Brown (XF-79) or Hull Red (XF-9)

[@johnweston1394]

@@DavidsShips I am trying to replicate your colour scheme but my kit does not give me your colour choices, could you pleas tell me what the lightest colour is on your hull side, it looks like white or a very light grey.

[@DavidsShips]

@@johnweston1394 You can find the painting guide here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/17gnUK19c6mGrTRhsaO1u0KuwgubiRo7r?usp=share_link

[@Paul-H-Wolfram6608]

I won't even consider of having one of this HMS Prince of Wales model even its free of charge because the ship itself sucks ! Because its not a battle ship rather a piece of metal junk.