$1,449 EG4 12V 400Ah LiFePO4 Server Rack Battery

[@WillProwse]

Signature solar has a sale for 5% entire site. Affiliate links here: *Budget 12V 400Ah Battery:* signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-12v-400ah/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN *Pro 12V 400Ah Battery:* signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-lithium-battery-12v-400ah-server-rack-battery/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN The sale is 5% and a deal for shipping these batteries. This sale ends April 18th. If you don't need 400Ah, the cheapest 12V lifepo4 with low temp protection can be found here: amzn.to/3KoNVlq Price comparison is in 100Ah. Figured that was obvious but saw a lot of comments not understanding that. Sorry 0:00 Intro 4:14 Charging to 100% 5:40 Budget Battery Max Current Test! 7:08 Budget Battery Tear Down 9:16 Pro Battery Over Current Test 11:16 Pro Battery Tear Down 13:10 Fire Arrestor and Breaker Discussion 14:32 Downsides 16:52 Price Comparison 18:05 Conclusion

[@rg342]

Awesome review and video! Where are these batteries being sold at this prices you mentioned on the video: EG4 Lifepower $362 EG4 V2 $437

[@JohnHawkinsLV]

They have 24 volt models do you think the quality and build is the same? I also am running a 24 volt 3500 wats Outback Power inverter will the 24 volt version run with the 3500 watt Outback? Thanks John

[@danielsingleton5104]

from what I understand , you prefer and recommend 24v verses 12v. I plan on building 24v/100a overkill battery with 3000w pure sine inverter and 24v-12v converter to tie directly into my current multi fuse box. the top of the caravan is congested with other fixtures so I don't think I can get enough panels on top. I plane on building a rack on top of my ford expedition to hold the panels and run leads to the RV.

[@cbee2]

You should mention how much these things weigh. I ordered one and after getting the receipt did it saw fkibg ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY FIVE POUNDS!! I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO GET IT ON MY HOUSE

[@cbee2]

Inside house

[@mandmmilling3716]

I have been using 4 of the 12v non-pro batteries for a year now in my yacht. They work amazingly. Mounting was easy. I built a wood bottom for the batteries with a lip all the way around so the bottoms cant slide and bolted that to the boat. Next, I installed a piece of strip stainless steel across all the mounting plates on the top to connect all the tops of the batteries together. Finally, I used 2 1000-lb nylon ratchet straps to hold the batteries down in the wood bracket on the bottom. The batteries don't move. I did not make a separate box for the batteries as they are in my engine room and not located around any moisture. If I get water up to the batteries, my boat is gone anyway. My only beef with the eg4s is they don't make a 12v all-in-one converter charger to communicate directly with the batteries. I am using a multiplus 2 with Victron lynx and charge controllers. If I was building a boat from scratch, I would go 24v or 48v. But, since my entire boat is 12v, i will just stick with that for ease of use.

[@mvfloatplane881]

Thaanks for the note about your boat install. It sounds like you just stacked them directly one on top of another. I am contemplating a similar install, but with the V2’s on our boat. Initially thought I would install them in the engine room, but now targeting behind our flatscreen TV in the cabinet space originally intended for a tube TV. But at 98 lbs each, that’s a slug of weight for a boat! I am thinking of some kind of spacing between each unit to allow for air movement and heat dissipation. I will also be installing them with a Victron MultiPlus II and Cerbo screen.

[@mandmmilling3716]

@@mvfloatplane881 mine are mounted vertically, side by side...lugs are on top. I mounted mine in the center of the boat, midship. My old 8ds are mounted outbard stbd side. Right now, i am using them as start batteries so i dont have to change the alternators yet. I have 2 Renogy 60a dc to dc converters between the AGMS, and the Lithiums. Both renogys are switched. I usually only run 1 at at time.

[@mvfloatplane881]

@@mandmmilling3716 Interesting. My house battery bank compartment is centerline in the engine room but low, so I do not want to put mine there. I will be installing Victron DC-DC chargers for my flooded start batteries, which are both outboard. Interesting that you went terminals up. That wouldn’t work for mine but I may rethink and stand mine on their side - it would eliminate the stacking issue. I’d be interested to hear how long you can run on 4 of them. I am buying 3 but was thinking of installing only 2 because even 800AH will be more capacity than we’ve ever had. I have externally-regulated Balmar alternators and CenterFielder, each alternator 120 amp and 900 wats of panels along with an 8KW generator.

[@EasyyokeFilms]

How many amps do you run into the 4 batteries to charge them. And do you have multiple charge controllers to charge each battery separately?

[@mandmmilling3716]

@EasyyokeFilms the multiplus puts out 120a max, but i turn it down because of shore power limits. 3 charge controllers connected to the links (1600w). 2 110a standard alternators feeding 8d agms connected to 2 60a renogy dc to dc converters. Max i have seen from solar is around 70ish amps in perfect sun. 30a from multiplus, and 120a from dc to dc/alternators. So 220ish amp under ideal conditions

[@joepeach997]

"I love science man, that's so awesome!" No Will, you are so awesome! Love your videos and your attention to details.

[@timdowns4629]

Will, thank you so much for all your great videos. You taught me almost everything I know about solar over the past few years and I now live 100% off grid with 7k of solar and 10kwh of self made batteries and its all thanks to you and your great teaching skills. So happy to see your success too. Thanks again

[@YallAintRight]

I just bought my dream Rv. This might be what I need to upgrade the electrical. Thank you Will. Update: I did some mental math late last night and I think this is the right thing for my rv. I have a 16 foot 4 inch Class C. The battery area is very small with no room to give. I have to take measurements and everything, but this is 400 Ah in a *much* smaller form than I thought possible and with better protections to boot. Granted, shipping will be higher because I only need 1. And, because there is only 1 battery, I have no redundancy in case of major problem. That being said, this looks like an excellent fit.

[@kenword3751]

Been in a bus for over a yr with 2 EG4 batteries and 800 watts on the roof runs microwave air frier even air conditioner in Florida never get below 60% and charges back up daily...great batteries

[@teleyakco]

I'm in Alabama,will the ac run as needed at 75 degrees 24/7?I live in a 35 ft. travel trailer which is 50 amp,but I only have one ac even though it is wired for two.

[@wardelder3753]

I use two 24volt pro models in my RV. Replace four 6volt Trojans. New batteries are less wieght, more watts, fewer wires, less anxiety (DOD), no toxic fumes, and longer life. Had to go with 24 volt as I could not find a 48 to 12 volt converter for the RV. Am using a Victron 24 to 12 volt converter am am very happy. Love your videos and non biased opinions!

[@jake-mv5oi]

Victron Orion 48-12v converter?

[@wardelder3753]

@jake32401 oops... I was sure I searched and don't see that beast! I will live with my 24v system even though 48 would have been more efficient...

[@DHD-]

I like the longsleve black shrts you've been wearing lately. Stylish and utilitarian.

[@markronck3415]

Will, my friends and I will drive to Sulphur Springs, TX. for our stuff. My neighbor just added a mini split from there the other day. Between your videos and their support team we got it made here. You have stepped up and closed a void in training us the viewers. Your a very busy person for sure and understand why you say and do what you talk about from motorhome to getting a house. Thank you

[@GetUpAndGoVanLife]

love your videos, 90% of what I know about electrical I've learned from watching your videos over the years. thank you for making great, well explained electrical content

[@kreutztimothy]

Will, thanks for this video!!! I was dead set on going with 6 SOK 206ah batteries, But since seeing this, I'll only need to have 3 of these.... The space I'll be saving will be great, but the savings of $2200 will truly be awesome! Thanks again for the video and the breakdown of the quality of these racks!

[@tomfisher1010]

Thank you. This was really helpful. I bought two 200ah 12 v sok batteries in the last few years for our small camper, but going forward this seems like the better option. 👍

[@N2UPROD]

The shipping if your not in Nevada is where it gets you

[@fishhuntadventure]

Hmm.

[@BobCollins42]

Thanks for rounding back to discussing 12V systems. For small mobile applications-5 kWh or less-it's hard to justify the costs of using 48V or even 24V. The cost of thicker, but very short cables, etc. don't make up for the higher cost of less common equipment. I would like to hear more on the reliability of server-rack batteries in a high vibration environment such as mounted in a van or small RV. Do you have any input on this subject? Thanks again for your quality reviews and advice!

[@DannyBowen25]

The way I figure it, if you're going to need 4 12v batteries, might as well go 48v. If you need 2, go 24v, less? Go 12v.. considering all the 12v is just a parallel vs series battery with the same wattage overall. Yes, less than 5kwh, (if you don't plan to expand) makes no sense, neither does 4 12v either.

[@BobCollins42]

@@DannyBowen25 I don't agree. There are plenty of reasons to stay at 12v or 24v for mobile. Consider that, for many applications, you will want to power with DC. Also, my current consideration is to use 280 or 302 Ah LiFePO4 cells, so I am looking at one, or at most two batteries.

[@DannyBowen25]

@@BobCollins42 DC to DC converter. D for done.

[@DannyBowen25]

@@BobCollins42 We are all welcome to disagree;) In the end, a 300ah battery is just cells organized differently. They are all the 3.2v batteries just lined up to max 12v at certain ah capacity That's why they end up costing similarly. $1100 for a 300ah 12v, calc up to a 12v 400ah $1500, and it's the same as a 48v 100ah. Just easier to send 48v across a wire, less amps. You'd have to buck convert with 24v to 12v, 48v to 12v is about the same cost. Efficiency Losses are relative. Cheaper than copper if you ask me, but If you MUST stick to 12v, I'm not hating you for doing it lol

[@BobCollins42]

@@DannyBowen25 BTW, when I compared the delivered price of server-rack batteries and smaller batteries, the smaller batteries were less expensive. The shipping on server-rack batteries is usually close to $300.

[@ur_pore]

Thanks a ton for checking out 12v large form factor batteries still. I know many are switching to 48v systems but those of us that have vans it makes more sense to run 12v in general. Reason being of small surface area for solar panels and most do not run a second dedicated 48v alternator.

[@neliosamch3195]

All you need to convert it to 48v is a 560V dc to dc converter charger.

[@bartonkohler9344]

Yeah but then he has heat, noise and another point of failure.

[@ur_pore]

If he means a buck boost 12v to 48v then sure, but that's not very efficient and only a handful of options for products to do that like safierys Scotty b2b. You also need to take into account your solar efficiency in regards to low voltage shaded panels. Also I don't see many true low idle power consumption offerings at 48v, seems really dumb to have a all in one or something that's gulping power at idle for a van that's 12x6 feet living quarters space.

[@TurboAdam]

I build mobile command vehicles for fire departments and law enforcement, and use 12v systems exclusively. Solar panels are of no use as these vehicles have a completely different use case than a recreational vehicle. The options for high output 12v alternators from the OEM’s and aftermarket allow these vehicles to power pretty much everything off of a 2kw-5kw inverter. Electronics, HVAC, power tool battery chargers, etc. Yeah it’s kind of a pain working with the kind of currents needed in a 12v system of that many kw’s but it’s necessary. Until the vehicles themselves switch to 48v, it’s a necessary evil…for me. Thank you for shining a light on this dark little corner of low voltage-high current that a few of us have chosen to call home! Keep up the great videos!!

[@krissfemmpaws1029]

Hey Will, I think you are missing something here, for a small off grid home/cabin it's easy to use 12 volt for lighting and 12 volt RV/truck appliances for your convenience needs. They do make a pellet stove powered by 12 volts for your heating. In some ways it makes things very simple to get a low power system on line.

[@FQuainton]

Thank you. This is my line of thinking as well. I have been thinking quite a bit about a small off grid system for a cabin that I want to build.

[@krissfemmpaws1029]

@@FQuainton my partner and I are looking at off grid property with a small home so we are looking at 12 or 24 volts for our system. We are looking at about 500 sq ft with short wire runs to keep the line loss low.

[@FQuainton]

@Kriss Femmpaws That is really cool. I have been working on picking up a piece of land that I can build a 450 sq ft tiny home/cabin. I like the idea of 12V because there is so much stuff available at affordable prices for it. What convinced my kids that solar was viable was seeing that they could play xbox and charge their phones off 3 100 watt solar panels. XD

[@Tumbleweed5150]

@@FQuainton I have a 48 Volt system in my RV, and I put in a pair of buck converters for 13.8V to run my 12V stuff. I had a 24V to 13.8V converter in my old 24V system, so when I upgraded to 48V, I just bought a 48V to 24V buck converter, then used that to power the 24V to 13.8V buck converter. I tried a 24V to 12V converter on one system, but it seemed weak, and pulling a larger 12V load, (Using a 12V tire pump, for example), it overheated the cigar-type plug. I replaced that, once I got the 24V to 13.8V buck converter, and have had no problems since.

[@FQuainton]

@Tumbleweed5150 Thank you for sharing that. That is an interesting idea and definitely something to keep in mind. The only thing that was keeping me wanting to stick with 12 volts was the availability of 12 volt equipment. I never thought of using buck converters. That makes a 48-volt system much more feasible now. The thing I really like about 48 volts is being able to push higher wattage with lower amperage and less risk of overheating the wires and power loss.

[@doughinkle2947]

Wow! I'm looking forward to that 12 volt system video!

[@mjremy2605]

Love your videos, Will. Most of it going over my head since I know next to nothing about electronics, batteries, electrical. However, the fact that I can buy an EG4 lithium 12V battery at a fraction of the cost of others, is very heartening. I was despairing about that. So very glad to have your videos and insights and testing. Thank you!!

[@RamblinBobReviews]

P.S. Thank you for all you do to help people learn about this technology, We have learned a lot from you over the years :)

[@rickharold7884]

Awesome. I agree 48 V rocks. However, many of my locations are off grid artificial intelligence cameras we have to use 12 V. Because we go direct DC to DC. Our efficiency is really critical. We also never exceed 200 W running the various 5G 4G modems, switches and compute power along with cameras. I have fuses set up for that. So a server rack battery like this really simplifies our lives. But I know what you mean with the 48 V versus 12 V is so archaic, but sometimes you have to use it. Love the video

[@fishhuntadventure]

I’m not sure describing 12V as archaic is accurate. 48V has some advantages but for smaller systems and loads- and things like the cams you describe- 12V is just the right product. If all you are doing is ‘replacing’ or backing up typical 120/240VAC systems and higher loads and where DC service isn’t a factor then the ‘argument’ for 12V is diminished. For small offgrid systems that run a fridge/coffeemaker or an RV then in my mind if your loads are under 2500W (or maybe 3000W) then going beyond 12V doesn’t make any sense imho

[@martinlebl631]

DC to DC convertor wouldn't solve that?

[@johnhufnagel]

seems like EG4 has got their battery game nice and tight. Regarding the warranty, the question is always will the company be there when the warranty gets long in the tooth. EG4 does seem like they're doing things right enough that 10 years from now they might still be here. but honestly their build quality actually hurts them in that regard; their materials choices are of high enough quality that it looks like you'll get that life expectancy if not more, so why bother paying more for a longer warranty. :D in relation to mounting, anyone who's capable of custom designing their own system for an RV or other mobile 12V setup, probably is smart enough to make sure the batteries aren't going to go flying. adding more ways to tie them down might actually hurt EG4 in the long run, as people could become complacent in securing them, trusting that any additional brackets are actually strong enough to NOT rip from the chassis in an accident. quite honestly none of the server rack batteries have cases that are strong enough to withstand accident forces on their own. those mounting wings will get ripped off in a heartbeat.

[@tastiger91]

It great to have some serious channels on KZbin like this one.

[@johnnywalker5635]

I just bought a 32 ft travel trailer. We are building a Shop w lean-to. We are going to move into the Trailer which is parked under a lean-to, and sell the current house. And be debt free. And will also use Trailer for occasional Friday thru Sunday camping. So many state parks are booked until last week of September. So the point is, if we want to camp in the summer when school is out, it seems we need to do the no-power spots. I just bought the EG4 12V 400ah battery, from signature solar, so I can do some sort of off grid camping. It'll deplete running an AC. But should do just fine with charging two phones. Ipad for streaming. Refrigerator. 12V led lights. Water pump. Probably need my inverter Gen for the AC units. Csn run 2000w inverter generator to charge the EG4 battery. I have 2 renogy 100 watt solar panels along w a Victron 100/30 MPPT and hope to do some cool stuff w the travel trailer and the 12V 400ah battery. Also have a Interstate RV/MARINE 92ah battery as a "stock" back up.

[@DarrLaw]

Great video, Will. Bummer that EG4 isn’t making any marine-grade 12’s. I’m guessing they’d be a stellar price compared to the comps.

[@bill2292]

I always wonder what "Marine Grade" really means. My Victron looks just as "Marine Grade" as the EG4 v2.

[@quartamile]

Incredible product! Thank you for the high quality videos as always! I'll likely get this for an RV to run air conditioning this summer. Bless

[@Vigo327]

Nice vid. One thing i would say is that the thermal breaker would be affected hy heat generated inside the box, so in the event something inside the box was getting really hot while current was still under the BMS trip rating, that would slowly ‘derate’ the breaker and could lead to it tripping when the bms would not. But that depends on the high temp behaviour of the bms. I agree its mostly a convenient disconnect ‘for emergencies’. Its a lot more elegant than the 5kwh of paralleled 12v in my rv! Still more expensive, but definitely worth it for multiple reasons.

[@rodmartel3143]

Seasonal Canadian cabin where Temps can go VERY low...need a battery heater, preferably built in AND reliable.

[@termiterasin]

I did not know lifepo4 is very fire-safer! I was considering buying the V2 due to the fire arrestor being mentioned. Good to know they are not strictly needed for this chemistry!

[@john_in_phoenix]

Yes, the electrolyte (there isn't a lot) will catch fire and burn, or boil if hot enough. The chemistry (unlike many lithium chemistries) doesn't decompose and produce its own oxygen. The pressure relief valve on the top of each cell is there to vent the gas produced if the electrolyte boils (short circuit with no fuse or breaker). Whatever you do, don't breathe the gas vapor produced, it reacts with water to form a very toxic acid (like in your lungs). That said, it is about the best chemistry for fire safety. Even traditional lead acid must be vented since it produces hydrogen gas when charged. Really good chemistry, it does however like the same temperature that you do.

[@brooklynmurrau7926]

Just to save any confusion with the prices it's a per 100ah comparison not per battery.hope this helps.👍

[@lkeil84]

As much I also dislike 12 volt systems, my 46 foot yacht did give me much choice. The boat is wired and isolated with two battery banks. One is a standalone 8D for the port engine and generator. The other is/was 2x8d batteries for the Starboard engine and all house systems. This is done so that if you accidentally kill the house batteries, you can still start the generator and the port engine. This in turn will also charge the house batteries from the on board charger and engine alternator. The problem with lithium batteries and this system is the need for very large cranking amps, over 1000 and cummins recommends 1500 CCA. The batteries I chose were used Valence U27-12xp. First, 3 group 27 batteries fit exactly into an 8D box, so 6 of them worked out perfect. Next, these batteries have a 150 amp continuous output and a 30 second at 300 amps surge rating. This gives me 1800 amps for up to 30 seconds being perfect to start a large Cummins Diesel engine. I ended up paying $1700 for all of them but that was just luck. People are asking up to $750 for these batteries. All tested at about 120 ah at 11 years old. There does not seem to be a battery on the market that fit what I needed so perfectly. I have an industrial modified sine wave inverter to run the watermaker pump and a Renogy 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter for the house power. Along with 1800 watts of solar, I almost never need to start the generator, and only when I really need to run the air conditioners. Sometimes 12 volt in a large configuration is really the only way to go.

[@digger105337]

We used an arc welder to rejuvenate dead 12v lead acid heavy equipment batteries with great success. One of the mechanics had the nack of it, and dog dead frozen batteries could be desulfated and last another year or two. As long as they didn't blow up during the thawing process.

[@matthewprather7386]

24V and even 48V automotive style alternators aren't terribly expensive. For an RV or boat it wouldn't be too tough to add an extra alternator to many engines, and then have a higher voltage (and power) DC bus to charge a 24V or 48V battery bank. I suspect the 48V inverters are more efficient, along with saving on wire size. Might be a good solution if a system in which most / all loads are AC - microwave, induction cook top, heat pump. Hybrid paired with solar.

[@dangeroustoman]

There is no extra room for another alternator in my rig.

[@cayrick]

Thanks Will for explaining that these batteries have a pre-charge circuit. Easier than bridging the cables with resistors.

[@recumbentrevolution6540]

I just ordered this bad boy, Shipping was pretty expensive but, I am replacing my only 1.5 year old renogy gel cell 200 amp hour batteries. Mine is a small emergency of grid system not tied directly to the house, I actually have the newest model of the gandelle 4000 W inverter. I'm glad to see you use that 1 hopefully it should work OK on mine. Mostly to keep the fridge cold the entertainment center and Internet running during power outages.

[@alimamyfullah2716]

This is great man. I love 12volts despite it downside.

[@ptcaulfield]

I have the EG4 LL battery in my trailer. I directly replaced the lead batteries. I adjusted the solar controller (ZAMP) to lithium and the trailer converter to lithium. This is in a 2022 Outdoor RV 24RKS Backcountry. I have 340W of solar on the roof and an additional 180w portable panel. So far I have not had any problems recharging the battery to a full SOC daily. I also added a Victron Smart Shunt. I have been using the battery for about a year now. A few things: it starts my generator no problem "now", but initially it didn't (first 7 day trip, I need to use a jump box to start the genset). No idea why, I didn't change anything. When fully charged the shunt shows 14.63volts @ 400ah, at 83% capacity it shows 11.8V. When watching the 12v tv and the furnace kicks on, the tv fades and I need to wait a few minutes and turn it on again (after the initial kick in of the furnace fan I am thinking). Other than those two quirky things it seems to work fine. I do not have it hooked up to an inverter. I have it installed inside the trailer. I used 2/0 cables between the battery and the bus bars that everything is connected to. I soldered the cable lugs (didn't crimp). The cables lugs on the trailer wiring from the factory are suspect as the original battery lugs actually came off in my hands when converting to the EG4. I am planning on replacing and crimping the battery lugs and re-crimping the wiring connections from the trailer to the bus bar (the batteries are hooked to the bus bars). I also wonder if I need to ground the battery to the chassis (or is that just a car thing?) for the genset. I have hooked the battery up to my laptop and looked at the reading, but I don't really know what I am looking at. Great videos and a great book! Thanks

[@setsailatnoon]

You may not like 12 volts, but for us who have been on solar since 1984 we had few options. It still serves our small system well. Still living small.

[@WillProwse]

My first 120W solar panel was $550 13 years ago, so I've had 12V systems longer than any other. And flooded cell batteries. And thats why I hate them 😂 never going back

[@setsailatnoon]

@@WillProwse My fi"rst two panels were bought from an advert in a Mother Earth News magazine from Energy Sciences in 1984. That's nearly four decades ago. I was scraping around on beans and rice and built an earth shelter from native and recycled materials that year...a large truck battery for storage...two thin lites, one over the kitchen sink, one over the bed...a 12 volt JVC linear tracking turntable, cassette record and play, AM/FM/SW bands...that was my boom box...removable speakers. I had a 5" black and white tv which picked up three channels I called Rambo, Dumbo and Bimbo. Outhouse and hand pumped water in the kitchen sink. Didn't get running water and indoor toilet until 2007. We have a sauna at the center of our house which acts as a plenum and also our bathing space. I still appreciate the simple life, although I do have more solar now...but still have many 12 volt appliances. Yep, simple. Wish more folks didn't live such wasteful, consumptive lives.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

@@WillProwse I wish I could go with LiFePO4 batteries for my 36V golf cart, like you did for your 48V golf cart, but it gets over 130F here, and I worry that the BMS would shut down the batteries while driving.

[@vanmanjeff]

I have 4 of these in my promaster conversion. I highly recommend. Although I would probably use 24v in my next rig instead of 12

[@ben3989]

Wow that’s a lot of KWh.

[@fishhuntadventure]

@vanmanjeff If you need ‘more’ or whatever so are thinking 24V i would not bother. If you are going to buy-in for an upgrade just go to 48V. When you leave 12V behind you also leave behind the practicality of 12V devices so you may as well just make the jump to 48V which has every advantage of 24V (except for maybe 24V waterpump) but is becoming more universally supported.

[@vanmanjeff]

@@fishhuntadventure i would totally agree with you if I had a permanent install in a stationary off grid cabin, but not a van. Current equipment options are mostly 12/24v or 120v ac. (Although cruisencomfort makes a 48v dc unit) they’re really pricey. Point is, I’d end up bucking the entire system to 12/24 or spending a ton of money to buy specialty equipment like 48v alternators, pumps, heaters, dc to dc converters, and so on. When the automotive standards for low voltage change to 48v, it will change. Maybe that will happen in the next couple years but not now. And if I did go 48v in a van now, I’d look at a mild hybrid conversion anyway. There’s a couple companies doing that for fleet vehicles. Again you’re looking at serious costs, though.

[@spuriouseffect]

@@vanmanjeff Would you mind helping me with a few questions. I currently have four 100 watt solar panels hooked up to a 12v charge controller and a couple old car batteries. I also have a little Bluetti EB3A that can be charged with 12/24 volts. I'm currently only powering a 12/24 volt cooler, a charger for my phone, and a couple 12 volt lights in my camper. I would like to increase my capacity for a few reasons. One, I would like to have enough to be able to camp under trees for a few days without running out of power. Two, I bought a small camp and would like to use this same system when I'm there. And three, I will probably want to use more appliances and other things in the future. My questions are... Will I be able to hook this rack battery up just like I have my batteries hooked up now, only with a better charge controller of course, or is there more to it than that? And since I haven't made any investment in anything that runs on only 12 volts, other than a couple cheap lights, should I step up to 24 volts? Or just stick with 12 volt that has more options?

[@JasonPhillips-f1i]

Thanks for the great video. I think it would be a fun project to make a hybrid voltage system for a RV. If i was going to build a system for a camper i might buy 4 x12v batteries and hook them up series 48v with an EG4 inverter to run all my AC and to charge from solar or when i'm plugged in AND ALSO then split off 12v (from one battery or in parallel) to run all my 12v systems. Some larger motorhomes/semi run off of 24v i think, so you could accommodate that too. A video on how to do that the right way would be nice (maybe you already have)

[@marksmyth8190]

I have two 48V EG4 systems that work well. I had a specific need for 12V so I have 3 of these in a rack. The BMS monitoring program works well, allowing a view of each battery on a PC. I have the same AIMS charger that you have and it charges to 100%. However I had to use an AIMS 12VDC to 120VAC Inverter/Charger and it will not bring the batteries to 100%. Also EG4 has waterproof batteries available in 12, 36, and 48 Volt. I was considering the 36 V for my golf cart, but it will not handle the in rush of starting the cart. It would take multiple batteries so the cost and space make it not viable. I went with 3 LiFePO4 batteries designed for golf carts. Always enjoy your videos, keep them coming.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

I noticed a few different Commenters talking about using the 12V batteries for their RVs, etc., because most items are 12V in one. I have a 48 Volt system in my RV, and I put in a pair of buck converters for 13.8V to run my 12V stuff. I had a 24V to 13.8V converter in my old 24V system, so when I upgraded to 48V, I just bought a 48V to 24V buck converter, then used that to power the 24V to 13.8V buck converter. I tried a 24V to 12V converter on one system, but it seemed weak, and pulling a larger 12V load, (Using a 12V tire pump, for example), it overheated the cigar-type plug. I replaced that, once I got the 24V to 13.8V buck converter, and have had no problems since.

[@earlzeis35]

RV 50a? What inverter did you use that's 48v and RV compatible?

[@termiterasin]

currently 12v is the only system you can buy that can be charged off a vehicle's alternator with a dc to dc charger by renogy. The only 48v that charges off an alternator is the eco flow proprietary power kit.

[@lynnmartin7747]

Great video as always Will! I'm installing two of these in my airstream as we speak. Thanks so much.

[@NorCalNiche]

Thanks for the video. Would love to see you tear down an electric vehicle battery system or maybe one showing the process of building and hooking up a backup home battery! Cheers

[@fishhuntadventure]

I was not aware they had a 12V rack battery option! My bad. I may have bought in instead of the cheap 140Ah 12V batteries I bought last year. I am very appreciative that you’ve covered these for the 12V market. For some people 12V covers the need, or exceeds it, and offers benefits that are desirable in their situations. Like mine. 12V has its place especially where loads will probably never be above 15- or 20A at 120VAC, and 12V loads are not significant. And though I ‘can’ use a generator in an emergency charging situation it is a practical benefit that in some unimaginable circumstance where a battery fails I can just use jumper cables to my vehicle and have power with no additional equipment. Plus, my boat, my shop, my residential setups are all compatible at ‘native’ oem voltage. Now I’m sitting here wondering about selling my current batteries and buying a couple of the non-pro batteries. That would be a lot of storage headroom and give me many days of autonomy during dark winter months and give my heavily-overpaneled plan a place to store itself. Great move covering these.

[@paul_london]

It could be really nice for camping etc - just put this on a trolley and have an alternative to Ecoflow for a fraction of the cost.

[@BennyPoppie]

Always Gr8, 4 over 18 months, Well done Will.

[@Tsxtasy1]

Dude, you’re killing it rn! These server rack batteries are legit

[@esolarone]

Very professional

[@junkerzn7312]

One thing that causes problems here, beyond the obvious, is that a 12V system will impose current limitations on the charge controllers. So e.g. if you have a Victron 75-15, that's 15A output. At 12V each charge controller can only develop roughly 13V x 15A = 195W. That's it. And a more modern Victron 100-20... still only 20A. After that the Victrons get expensive. I hit this problem with my 24V Pergola system. I have two charge controllers and I made the mistake of miscalculating the amperage because originally I was going to use 48V, but decided for this project to use a safer voltage. I am capping out both of my charge controllers :-(. The problem would be even worse at 12V. So you'd wind up having to use a more expensive charge controller, or more of them, to make it work at 12V. I personally think that it is better to run a higher voltage and then just have DC-to-DC converters off the battery to the 12V loads. Such converters are very cheap. That way you can go with less expensive charge controllers.

[@arachnidkalven]

5000watt at 12 VDC. That's more than 400 amps going to the inverter. I would recommend very thick cables..

[@KEAWE7]

Once again, another great video. I can't wait for 12v system built video.

[@newagetemplar6100]

I subscribed as your content is a pleasure to watch . Your honesty ,politeness and manners does you proud . Always my first port of call for research, information and just general pleasant viewing . 🇬🇧👍

[@stevenr8353]

Thank you Will. Wish I would have waited. I have 3 battleborn batteries that cost a lot more

[@galen__]

Next video: How to run all your 12V stuff in a 48V system with examples for 0.1A / 20A / 50A / 100A+ requirements. Budget options like used 12V Server PSUs for 50-100A running off the inverter for specific usage under an hour. Midrange options like paralleled 48V to 12V DC-DC converters for even higher amps? Followed by: How do you charge a 48V system via 12V alternator? Can we make it work? Is there a 12V/40A input to 48V/10A output solution that can optimally charge a 48V LFP battery? Should you add a 48V alternator instead? How about using a small DIY solar generator to charge via the 12V alternator until it’s at least 40% charged, then switching on its inverter to startup a high quality 48V LFP battery charger? Lol 😅

[@taeum3062]

Essentially, you could get one of these batteries and an all in one inverter for a van conversion. Only other addition would be dc to dc charger and some solar panels. Wondering why people be spending an arm and a leg for such simple solution?!?!

[@thetslabus]

I completely agree, for any system of significant size 48v is the way to go, or at least 24v. 12v should only be used for very small systems.

[@whoanelly-]

yeah Im to much of noob and 48V scares the crap out of me lol. for a caper/offgrid thing I would def do 24v.

[@DannyBowen25]

​@@whoanelly-Just don't lick your fingers and grab the terminals of the battery 😉

[@MrPhlipflop]

Nice Will, 12v....going back to root's, van life. Being able to put/make systems 24/48v architecture is where the next monies is for RV

[@universeisundernoobligatio3283]

From my single conductor ii free air temperature rise table. The 6awg wire would have a 130degC temperature rise at 100amps So inside the case in a hot RV say ambient of 40degC the rise would be 40 + 130 =170degC For me thats a little close to the 200degC wire limit. Myself would have used at least a 4awg wire with a 200degC insulation. For a 12V system since theres not many volts to start with, the larger internal conductor would have less voltage drop. My engineering 2 cents

[@oswaldmosley6179]

two of these in series would make a nice 24v system

[@tonyshipman257]

This might be a great solution for my G3500 project build. I could use it for a small refrigerator and microwave and it would also provide emergency power, should my truck break down again, so I can run my newly installed diesel heater in my sleeper box. (Which I had installed shortly after I had broke down 4 nights with 20f temps last fall.) I could also use them to be able to jump start the truck if the truck batteries become too weak to start the diesel. l already have 2 alternators and I could use one just to keep these batteries charged and the other alternator for the truck batteries. I could also add a solar panel and charger at a later date. Hmmmm got me to thinking. Thanks Will for sharing this. Tony

[@gregboyd4321]

Great review Wil!! The downside of the higher end battery is no cold temp protection, the ground shipping via Fedex( their ground shipping really sucks) and no Bluetooth. So l am doing ur recommendations of buying 2 12v RV water tank storage heating pad as you have suggested in the past. This is for a small RV system. Will be watching ur 12v build to see if u are going to use that EG4 charge cord which you reviewed to see how it would work for a gas generator and any EV charging station to charge this 400" amper" up. Till then carpe diem!

[@heathroush5343]

Thanks for doing 12v.

[@conniegage2141]

Looking forward to your next video.

[@stevemyers2092]

very good breakdown, again... thanks Will. Appreciate your channel

[@nealvancitters7403]

EG4 also has waterproof 12 volt batteries for RV and Marine use. I am looking at two 100ah models for my RV. They are also priced right at $449.00 currently at Signature Solar. Signature Solar also did a tear down video of this battery. The video looked good, but it was not as comprehensive as Will's. Maybe an opportunity for a future Will tear down?

[@solargoat]

I thought I miss read the title when I saw 12 volt and server rack batteries. Seems like a a cool set up if EG4 made a 12 V inverter. One battery and an inverter with be a cheap power house set up.

[@TRYtoHELPyou]

Thanks for sharing. Gotta replace the house batteries in the motorhome soon ish. Don't need this but if I did go this way it's likely the last I would ever buy.

[@Yaya-wi8pb]

Make sure you check and double check the shipping costs!!!! And the return policy....you pay the $400 shipping cost back to the supplier///!!!!

[@Useitorloseit1]

Thanks Will, love your videos!

[@erickessler6094]

Gr8 review & enthusiasm. I'm looking forward to your build! I understand the 12V issue needing heavy gauge wire. But for a Camper solar power system, what choice do we have? Cheers, Eric

[@thisoldminewithlars5324]

Just ordered a EG4 LL today. Got a good holiday deal. Unfortunately I am stuck in the 12 volt scenario due to my legacy equipment. I have high hopes.

[@kswis]

I'm a fan of 12v and 48v. I dabble with the car audio thing. I would love to have a 48v bass amplifier but until that magical day arrives I'm stuck running massive phat wires 😅

[@carperdiem8754]

Put 3 of the cheaper ones in my fifth wheel with a victron multiplus 2. It is a great setup

[@Tilley52]

the budget eg4 batts cost $1400 for 400ah, but you can get 4x100ah with low temp protection(WEIZE 12V 100Ah, i think you tested them) for for $1200 and have 400amp cont. output. so that places you nicely in the 3000w inverter, which is perfect for 30amp RV.

[@NullStaticVoid]

Jesus that is a great deal. Thats less than what I paid for one of my Renogy 100AH BT batteries.And I agree on 12V, if I was going to redo my system in my van it would be 24V. Lots of fridges, fans and lights can run on 24V. Thinner, less expensive cabling. Not so much heat!

[@Angkasa_Berkah]

Great video, thanks for this video

[@miken4022]

"I love science"

[@jepito29]

Of course I bought a 12v200A power queen 3 days before this video came out. Wish I’d known the budget EG4 existed last week. Just my luck

[@kimmer6]

Wait a minute....rest easy. The price he said was for 100ah to keep everything comparable between brands. The budget EG4 is $1500 without shipping.

[@jontopham2742]

the breaker is a UL1077 MCB it could also be a molded case switch which has no overload function. BMS is better overcurrent protection anyway

[@trevormann4751]

I'd love to see a review on the new EG4 LiFePOWER4(48v) Communications Hub! It allows closed loop communications with various inverters, including Sol-Ark.

[@CHARLES12STRING]

I prefer 24 volt myself , if I ever get a bigger system I will try out 48 , great vids as always o7

[@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin]

Thank you so much for your videos! I am learning a great deal as I cut the power company out of my life!

[@Cameron_J]

They are server cases. Server rails and cabinets are how they mount.

[@bradleymcafee7913]

CATL is starting to manufacture Sodium Ion batteries for Chinese Auto makers. It will be interesting to watch the roll out of home storage systems over the next few years.

[@Tumbleweed5150]

I am interested in those, as I live in the desert, where it can get up to 130F in the shade and over 140F in my metal shed. I understand they can take higher temps than LiFePO4s can.

[@MyWasteOfTime]

It sucks EG4 removed the breakers from their value battery.

[@jsauerii]

Went to Sig solar to look for a manual for this battery and they have been pulled from the site. Looks like they are clearing out remaining stock of the other variations and then removing all traces of them. From my order page I get: EG4-LL Lithium Battery (V2) | 48V 100AH Unfortunately this product is no longer for sale so it cannot be reordered. So much for adding more to an incomplete system...... I looked around and cannot figure out if EG4 stopped making them or Sig Solar just stopped selling but shop solar has them far cheaper than sig solar ever did even a week or so ago when they were still there.

[@commonsensepatriot9450]

Thanks for the review!

[@og6537]

The price is closer to $400 when you factor in fright shipping the others one you can get for $299 with freebies shipping if you look around.

[@JohnHawkinsLV]

Where can you find that price and free shipping Thanks John

[@ronswen1687]

Hi I just bought a EG4 LL Lithium Battery (V2) | 12V 400AH | Server Rack Battery from you now I am looking for and inverter to use for my RV off grid have 5 solar panels just want to be able to use when not plug in or dry camping thank you Ron

[@da7heaven]

Great review, thanks Will.

[@petercoutu4726]

For marine use people should look at gov planet auctions where you can get military grade sea containers some of which are already set up for rock mound equipment.

[@jameskemmerer5168]

since you're gonna build a 12 volt system please build it with a a Victron Multiplus 2 specifically for an RV . I need that 50 amp service.

[@mikecmu]

Great Video Will - Thank you!

[@fares6599]

I noticed that the circuit breaker on the Pro model was a 125A, but you mentioned that the battery was rated for 200A continuous discharge

[@drwright2006]

Thank you for the informative review.

[@solarmarinepower]

Welcome to the Boat & RV world. Alternators are wild chargers and they do lot of bad things when used directly to charge Lifepo4.

[@WillProwse]

That's why multiple videos that I have made have covered DC to DC chargers. I've been covering that for about 4 years now over and over again.

[@WillProwse]

My whole channel started with systems I built in my minivan and RVs

[@jontopham2742]

the arrestors are there because its a 12V battery which is much higher current and will have a much worse UL9540A report with more fire

[@ndanieltx]

Excellent review and tests.

[@jonkelley5771]

Wow. $437 for a eg4 v2 when this video was made a year ago. Today..april 2024 theyre now 1,398. The cost is 3x that it was. If someone can explain why the cost is now 3x its original price in a year thatd be great. Id think that despite inflation the cost would go down as technology is continuosly developing. Also, id love to see a video of the quality of the battery now vs. Then. A lot of times the quality of the product drops.