10 Workholding Ideas For Laser Cutters

The last couple of weeks, I've been getting to know my new Y-400 laser cutter, and I have been trying out different methods to hold items on the laser cutter.
Of course, it is possible to ignore fixturing your work on a laser cutter! Just go ahead and cut it! It will work just fine! :)
Sometimes the 1/8" inch (3mm) plywood I want to cut is warped like a potato chip, and I do want to try to hold it down. I tried some random weights I had lying around the shop before deciding to design and make a couple of 3D printed solutions! The magnets do the best job of straightening out the plywood.
I have mostly been using my honeycomb bed without any standoffs, but I thought while I was at it, I might make a couple of different types of standoffs for the bed. Overall, I think my preference is towards the magnets with the metal spikes. The spikes are for clothing, but they work great for standoffs. I will put an Amazon link to these below.
I also created a 3D printed version of the honeycomb pins that includes a spike. There will be a link below for all the 3D printed files in this project.
Thanks for watching!
00:00 Intro
00:23 Weights or 1-2-3 Blocks
01:08 Magnets
02:30 Magnetic Corner Braces
03:08 Laser Cut Corner Braces
04:05 Honeycomb Hold-Down Pins
04:46 Laser Cut Honeycomb Hold-Down Pins
05:45 Nail / Rivet Bed
07:02 Magnets with Spikes
07:46 Honeycomb Hold-Downs with Spikes
08:17 Laser Cut Hold-Downs with Spikes
09:15 Outro
🎬 LASER CUTTER PLAYLIST: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
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🤖 FILES AND DOWNLOADS
3D Printer And Lightburn Files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:476...
📦 ITEMS I USED IN THIS VIDEO
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post. They help me to be able to create more content for you. Thank you for your support!
1-2-3 Blocks: amzn.to/2NmDt3a
Magnets: amzn.to/3qBTG2Z
Magnets with Holes: amzn.to/2Nm2hIB
Spikes: amzn.to/3pC0Brp
Rivets: amzn.to/2NoEac7

[@acwrightdesign]

So far I have been using the magnets with spikes and the 3D printed magnets and corner braces the most. Any other ideas I didn't include in the video?

[@EgonSorensen]

kzbin.info?search_query=cnc+vacuum+table - Perhaps some silicone strips/lining between the existing metal bed and a back piece connected to a decent sized vacuum pump/cleaner (that won't run hot) - Flat stuff sticks and unwanted smoke could not even be a problem anymore.

[@moviac1]

My hold down of choice for warped material has been magnetic tool holder bars on a steel honeycomb. If you swap the laser head tube after the lens to a shorter one, you can clear them too.

[@barbarianatgate2000]

It is important to remember that holding stock flat with magnets or weights doesn't actually negate the fact that it's cupped in the first place. Once the item is cut or engraved and you take the bracing off, it's going to return to its curved state. There may be a minor reduction from releasing some surface tension or removing an area where the most severe deformation exists. But overall, you likely still have cupped or twisted stock. In general, I think there's some very good ideas here for holding and positioning work pieces, especially for repeat items.

[@rajkumarsingh8970]

Dear you deserve a million Likes for this Helpful Video, Thanks.

[@acwrightdesign]

Thank you!

[@petermenningen338]

Mele Kalikimaka first, My engineer came out in viewing, As I always tell my wife (50 years) this is just an observation not a criticism. The big chunks of metal will waste a lot of material and has big risks. I love your magnetic hold downs and pins, My observation here is to make them so they protrude above the material less then the space between the material and the laser head- that way if you make a cut error the only thing that you damage is a hold-down.

[@tinadahl9875]

I love the way you realize you need magnets to help you stabilize, so you MAKE the magnets✨😀✨

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks!

[@geminiman2831]

​@@acwrightdesign I am only going to make x and y axis is one lrs 75 enough?

[@jondoe5866]

Great ideas. Im blown away. This is what I wat to see. People with a video like this he dont have to ask me to like and sub. I did it in first few minutes.

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks for the sub! Glad you found it useful!

[@basterbeatz]

Thanks for this video! Honeycomb pins gave me idea, so I made blade bed pins. Thanks!

[@acwrightdesign]

No problem! Glad you like it!

[@Iwannarox]

Just had the "magnet with spike" revelation the other day so I'm feeling pretty validated right now

[@acwrightdesign]

It is very useful for turning a honeycomb bed into a spike bed with little effort!

[@justinjahnke5288]

Loved this video. I plan on printing some of them off. Great job!

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks!

[@PinItRight1]

EXCELLENT IDEAS!!! Thanks for sharing

[@acwrightdesign]

No problem! Thanks for watching!

[@ironworksmodels]

A magnet enclosure is a great idea. Magnets are much more fragile than I realized, and now I have a bowl of broken magnets that I use. 😂

[@acwrightdesign]

I have a few broken ones as well!

[@castlecodersltd]

Great video with some useful suggestions. Thank you ☺

[@acwrightdesign]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gnafin]

thanks for all the helpful tools. i will have to try them out after i get mine built. i have all the parts just have to get a cart for it.

[@acwrightdesign]

No problem! Just getting all the parts in one place is an accomplishment! That took me about 4 months!!

[@SecretsofScorpio]

This is pure genius

[@acwrightdesign]

Thank you!

[@LordByronMacintosh]

thanks so much - great and informative ideas you have!!!

[@acwrightdesign]

You are so welcome!

[@larrykent196]

Some good ideas, nice job thank you. Cheers!

[@acwrightdesign]

Thank you!

[@eyaleliyahu]

You are a Genius, thank you so much for sharing.

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks!

[@laseranddiy-cq5jf]

great ideas dude. we all fight the same issues :)

[@acwrightdesign]

Very true. Thank you!

[@sarungtenun]

😄🤩😆 really smart 👏👏👏 thank you 🤝

[@samvoelkel2046]

Thanks for the great ideas. I got my laser cutter 2 weeks ago, and am looking for good ideas (like yours) to make the machine easier to work with. Thanks.

[@acwrightdesign]

No problem! Glad I could help!

[@PhilippeLhoste]

Very interesting experiments. Thanks for sharing the ideas and the files. Although I fail to understand how the various spikes help with the bent board… I have seen someone screwing the metal spikes on a perforated metal plate to make a replacement of the expensive honeycomb, though. Personally, I just use duct tape to fix the board on a grid (one made to cool down baked pies). Not perfect, have to ensure I don't tape in the way of the laser, but kind of work.

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks for watching!

[@Sebastian-kc7id]

Very nice, thanks 4 the video!

[@acwrightdesign]

No problem! Glad you liked it!

[@Sebastian-kc7id]

@@acwrightdesign I really enjoy your videos, keep ongoing.

[@wilmercb]

Really good!!! 👍🏼

[@acwrightdesign]

Thank you!

[@gthmcty111]

Bruh YOU R THE F’N Man for this video!!!!!!! Subscribed!!!

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks! I appreciate the support!

[@kevinm3751]

Makes more sense to just take care of your wood and material!

[@acwrightdesign]

That would help!

[@manelgt]

Muchas gracias por las descargas, saludos desde valencia - Spain

[@acwrightdesign]

You're welcome!

[@I-build-crafts]

Great video! Thanks! I figured you would have an answer to my question about venting. I recently bought a 20 W Dewalli laser engraver. I am a newbie. The Dewalli is small with a foot print of about 24" square. I found out very quickly that I need to vent it. In doing some research I found that building a box is a good idea and adding some vent holes ignorer to help the smoke evacuate via an inline fan system. I am looking at a simple fan as the vent hole in the side of my hose in very close to the machine. The price seem to be all over the place. I am looking at he iGrowteck 4 inch inline Fan. Please let me know if there are any other ideas and or advice. Thank you very much for any help!!

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks! Good luck with your laser! My advice for fans is get the most powerful one you can afford. I bought two different inline fans (4" and 6") and returned them before settling on the inline fan I have now (8"). There is no such thing as too much airflow for venting the laser!

[@I-build-crafts]

@@acwrightdesign thanks for the advice!!

[@ivanhabdija4653]

Legend 🔥🔥🔥

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks!

[@acdii]

Hmm until now couldn't come up with a practical use for a 3d printer for my shop! Those hold downs look great. I used 1/4" acrylic for the T pin hold downs, but didn't consider making them pointed for hold ups, great idea. What material were you cutting the parts out of? Looks like MDF, but not sure.

[@acwrightdesign]

Yep I really gave my 3D printer a workout on this project! I did cut the hold downs out of MDF which is not ideal. But I really don't use the MDF ones at all. The 3D printed ones are best. And overall I use the magnets the most.

[@D4mations]

Just subscribed cuz your vids are uber useful!! I have one question though. How is your air assist working. Does it only turn on when cutting? I really need that if that’s the case!! I have all my parts on the way so am planning everything now

[@acwrightdesign]

Thanks! The air assist solenoid is controlled by Lightburn and is generally on during cutting. When it is off there is always a small amount of bleed air going through the nozzle to protect the lens. The valve near the nozzle stops all air from going to nozzle when not running a job.

[@D4mations]

@@acwrightdesign would you mind doing a vid of how you set that up and the components involved, compressor, solenoid, etc?

[@acwrightdesign]

@@D4mations Have a look at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b33IhodppNOLkNU

[@MarcJWebbMusic]

In one of your videos you had some target for alignment. Where are they from/ where can we get some?

[@acwrightdesign]

They are available on Thingiverse. Here's a link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750178

[@toddbuhmiller]

Great ideas! I guess I need to get a 3D printer as well! Ha ha

[@acwrightdesign]

I highly recommend it!

[@pwninstein]

Where did you get your honeycomb cutting surface? I can't find one that fits the whole bed, unfortunately.

[@acwrightdesign]

It was a custom order from CloudRay. There is a page on their website to order a custom size bed. Mine is 585mm x 625mm with 5.5mm spacing. It was $140 with shipping.

[@pwninstein]

@@acwrightdesign wonderful, thank you again!

[@acwrightdesign]

@@pwninstein No problem!

[@darrinjones9387]

Biggest trouble i have is with 5.5mm plywood. It likes to be warped. I am using a hobby diode laser to cut it.

[@Protocol-X]

Did you buy a work table or build one? I bought a 400x600 as documented but it is rather small looking in the laser compared to yours. I measured it to make sure it's not the wrong size and it is correct, but it sits short on the support rack 30mm x 150mm y. Yours looks to fit like a glove.

[@acwrightdesign]

I ordered a custom size one from CloudRay laser. You can email them or order it on their website.

[@Protocol-X]

@@acwrightdesign thanks, guess I'll go custom when this one needs to be replaced.

[@monkeysausageclub]

Do you have a steel plate under the honeycomb that the magnets are attracted too? Only ask because isn't the honeycomb aluminium?

[@acwrightdesign]

I suppose some honeycomb beds are aluminum? Mine is not so the magnets do stick.

[@Xxbladeajn88xX]

Do you have an auto focus sensor? Mine has one. It’s sucks because it’s so useful, but can easily get caught on something. I’m cutting through thick leather, so once the item is cut out, the sensor snags and loosens my collet. Very annoying ):

[@acwrightdesign]

I had one for maybe one day and then ripped it out of there. Useless IMO. I opted for just installing a Z sensor at top of bed which is almost the same thing but doesn't have to be constantly re-calibrated.

[@Xxbladeajn88xX]

@@acwrightdesign hm… I don’t think I’ve ever heard of that! Does is serve the same purpose in automatically setting the bed height for different materials? I’m having so many issues. The focus sensor keeps getting caught on any material which curls up after being cut. Specifically, my thick leather (8-10oz thick). I can’t even keep the dang thing down. I’m literally using industrial perminant gorilla duct tape, and it STILL isn’t holding it down. I’m wetting the leather and pressing it with glass. It doesn’t matter what I do…. Once I do get the dang thing held to the bed, it still is an issue because as soon as the thing is cut out from the larger piece of leather, it curls up. That raised edge catches the sensor (its like 1/4” lower than the nozzle). I’m seriously worried I’m going to break the entire laser head… I’ve already had to take the laser head apart because it’s gotten caught and loosened the collet. So, I don’t know what to do. I don’t know how to keep the leather down without massive amount of tape, and I don’t know how to modify my machine so that I can fix the snagging issue. Maybe it’s a different focus sensor, maybe it’s the thing that you described. I’m not sure, as I am a bit ignorant of all the modifications that can be done. However, I need to resolve the issue :/ Would you mind giving me some suggestions, point me in the right direction, or help in any way? Could you share a link of the part you talked about so I can read about it? I’m willing to do any modifications necessary, but I don’t know what to do to actually fix the issue.

[@acwrightdesign]

@@Xxbladeajn88xX I can't really give you much advice about leather since I haven't tried to cut leather yet. As far as the Z limit goes it simply allows you to always raise the bed back up to a known point each time you reset the machine just like the X and Y limit switches do. If you know that the bed is at Z 0 and the nozzle end is some known distance from the material (make a step gauge if you haven't) you can jog the Z precisely up or down by known amounts. Without a Z limit the controller doesn't know where the Z axis is in machine coordinate space so it is tough to know how to make precise moves. All that being said... you don't NEED either a Z limit OR a focus probe. You will always want to loosen the nozzle and move it up or down until it is the correct distance from your material (again make sure you make a step gauge).

[@acwrightdesign]

@@Xxbladeajn88xX Another suggestion I just thought of regarding your leather curl issue... You might want to look at getting a different focal length lens or lens tube because different focal lengths relate to different distances between the nozzle and the material. There are other factors (size of kerf) but if you are mostly cutting this may not be an issue for you.

[@acwrightdesign]

For instance if a 50.8mm lens focuses 2 inches from the lens, installing a 101.6mm lens in the same position instead of the 50.8mm lens would increase that distance to approx 4 inches which would allow for much more room between the end of the lens tube and the material.

[@Pilotltd]

Moral of this is - buy good ply and/or don't get it damp on one side 😉

[@acwrightdesign]

Good plywood does help!

[@mikemorrison377]

Your thing verse link is not working. Has it changed?

[@acwrightdesign]

Hmm... I just tried the link and it worked for me. Can you check again?

[@mikemorrison377]

@@acwrightdesign thanks for the reply. It seems to be working now. My 3d printer will be here in 2-3 weeks, and these hold downs will be one of the 1st things I make.

[@acwrightdesign]

@@mikemorrison377 Awesome! Good luck!

[@steveferguson1232]

Where can I get these?

[@acwrightdesign]

Project files are here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4768915

[@jpsignsandbanners3539]

Do you sell the magnet

[@acwrightdesign]

I do not currently sell the magnets. The files are available on Thingiverse if you want to print your own. Link in the description.

[@RickDrew]

Or just screw the corners down.....

[@acwrightdesign]

#11

[@optikon2222]

all those methods yet still failed on flattening out your wood board.

[@acwrightdesign]

Uh huh

[@kimwilliams8991]

SO COOL…THANKS FOR SHARING!

[@harrelsontrumpets]

None of these are necessary when you purchase high quality materials and store them properly. I would not cut a warped piece of wood with any of these methods as the results would also be warped.

[@acwrightdesign]

While that is true, I would hate to see people not cut a piece of wood if it is not perfectly flat. It depends a lot on your project requirements. I have cut some pretty warped wood with hold downs and as long as the pieces are small they turn out just fine.

[@ironworksmodels]

You simply cannot buy 1/16, 1/32 and 1/64 birch ply that is either not warped when you get it, will not warp when you store it (even weighted) or will not warp when you ship it to another climate. I’ve gotten samples of aircraft grade ply looking for the magical non-warping ply. Still warps.