100 AMP RV POWER CONVERTER

[@TheGhungFu]

Just a tip: You can use SquareD QO series AC breakers for your DC systems up to 48 volts. Available at most big box hardware stores. Be sure to get the QO series (not the "Homeline"). I use them in my fulltimer rig for battery disconnects and distribution. Generally a lot less expensive and better than other automotive/RV products. A four place box with main breaker is about $35 last I looked. I also use them for my solar disconnects/protection.

[@miguelsalami]

Powermax makes some excellent supplies.

[@jimdavis8804]

Great Vid as usual. I had a Max 45. I put it on a timer to come on after the solar panels went off at dark. Mine didn’t have a indicator light to let me know if it was on. But that being said it did the job. My system is a Hybrid system for Hurricane season.

[@djdarrenrv]

i bought the Progressive Dynamics PD4575 (4-stage charger!!) that includes circuit/fuse panel. cost me $225. loving it!!! 75 amp service!!! gonna wire in an extra 30amp line so i'll have a 50amp line plus a 30amp line to use if parks have it.

[@jimmydeen58]

Great Video.. Awesome Choice thats what I just bought and replaced in my class a..

[@4DFlatlander]

Nice job on the converter install, you won't run out of capacity with that. Looking at all the DC wiring, you may want to learn about telco DC wire management using Wax string lacing cord, Fish paper and how to lace. The most common method is called the Kansas City Stitch but a Box or H stitch is good enough. It is very common in telecommunications industry for managing wiring to prevent shorts, fires and makes the wiring look nice and retro. Search on telecom cable lacing and you'll see what I mean.

[@darrellwampler6473]

That's a beastly unit!

[@anthonymasiello]

Don’t understand. When you are hooked up to power isn’t it suppose to switch to running your rv lights from battery to invertor. Didn’t see any wires going to power rv lights when you are plugged in.

[@katy_bee]

May I ask why you didn't connect a ground to the bonding lug?

[@ramvanbobby3889]

That's the grandpa of inverters that should kick the juice up

[@kevincow1448]

Switch all if your lights to LED big savings on batteries

[@TheAlex11211]

That power converter radiates emf like buggery! Can actually hear it on the camera up close

[@reinerh7777]

oh gee, i had several of these. they all died within a year, maybe they fixed them by now. hope you have more luck then i had.

[@johnedvon1210]

Can you tell me if your fan comes on when you plug it in or does it wait till it gets hot?

[@tonyfourpaws4511]

am i correct in assuming that you: power this off of your shore power 110. run the +/- 0 gauge wires to your battery bank, and then run FROM your battery bank to a fuse panel to power your 12V?

[@reinerh7777]

the intellipower are bulletproof, thats the one i switched to.

[@ARealPersonNotABot]

I bought one of these at Tosche's station.

[@energiavadasz3328]

I don't realy get this. When you on the grid Why do you have to use everything trough rhe battery? Your fridge dos notrun on 110 v? And even you could get a very cheap electric heater 110v, and even for hot water.

[@FourthWayRanch]

Can you run an inverter at the same time its charging?

[@DAH-ss1nu]

I've had much better luck using the 6 volt golf cart batteries than any starting battery (even if they also say "deep cycle"). If its not true deep cycle they die soon and I've killed them within a year and a half or so. The best I've had and am still running on is a set of used 100AH AGM batteries I got from Budget Batteries (battery scrap place) up here in Tacoma. Got them for not much more than scrap price. Dunno about the Portland/Salem area but I bet you have a similar biz near your area.

[@ThaHammieJaassee]

Will this overcharge the batteries?

[@gleefull2962]

Can i use the 45a to power a 3,000w amp?

[@stanlee3041]

if you had your own shop I'm sure u could make money at setting people up with custom motorhomes for of grid living great job

[@jaymillikan8950]

Holy cow you have a fire waiting to happen. You should have your batteries connected to a distribution block to draw off of them. You have so many wires under the terminal nuts that the resistance is sure to be causing heat. If you're running the batteries in series, Daisy chain them so you don't have so much wire just cooked up causing resistance. If in parallel, short 0 ga. jumpers. Connect the charger at battery one and draw power from battery 4. It will allow your batteries to naturally deplete and also filter the power coming in so the output is cleaner.

[@johnnywalker5635]

You might do this. But id not you should seriously change out to a thicker gauge wire. 2 AWG or better. Great video.