1000W Halogen Floodlight

[@chompchompnomnom4256]

Hi JW, got my setup thanks to you. Now have a 140A welder, 110V transformer rewired, and fuse tester or whatever you want to test. Got it all hard wired up now so thanks!! Oh yeah and a 3kVA 1:1 isolator. Also, what do you think about photonicinduction?

[@jonrpearce]

Still commonly used in theatrical applications, especially for colour washing large backdrops.

[@markopaun7228]

I also have two halogen reflectors with halogen bulbs with 150 wats powers and five meter of cable.

[@add-tn4oc]

I love lamp

[@SeanBZA]

I have seen these lamps with a upgraded non halogen lamp, either a CFL or LED type that fits the socket in most fittings. They work quite well in doing a retrofit to lower power consumption. though sadly the retrofit lamps are pretty much going to have a similar lifetime as the original halogen lamps.

[@add-tn4oc]

I disagree. Linear halogens have approximately 2,000 hours life depending on various conditions. A good quality CFL replacement can last 10-15,000 hours, again depending on various conditions. LED replacements should last longer than the CFL. Both CFL and LED replacements never have anywhere near the same lumens output though, but are useful for turning an old halogen fitting into a dusk to dawn light (or similar) if fitted to a timer or photocell.

[@stevecoatesdotnet]

Yay. I'm famous :D. I do rather like the light from high power halogens. Obviously they are impractical to use, but they do give off a nice light and can be fun to play with :).

[@benbaselet2026]

Always handy when one can light up the garden and melt the snow off it at the same time with a single device.

[@benbaselet2026]

I will never understand why some people put up lights which turn off for the night... Perhaps they will also fold their umbrella during rains and walk with their jacket over the shoulder when it gets bloody cold?

[@RODALCO2007]

Great video. Useless local council turning streetlights off after midnight. Crime rate goes up.

[@locouk]

I'd like to see how the bulb would fail should it have grease/ finger grease on the glass, I doubt it would be a one evening video though.

[@ratbag359]

i have seen them get a hot spot where the grease is and it causes the glass to melt lol

[@SeanBZA]

The bulb turns black there, then will shatter as the breakdown products of the skin oil chemically react with the glass leading that area overheating and failing from the internal pressure. Those lamps are filled with Argon and chlorine gas so as to both keep the filament from boiling ( the argon) and to chemically react with the vapour ( the chlorine) so it does not boil off and deposit on the tube as a black tungsten layer. The tungsten chloride reacts with the hotter parts of the filament and thus deposits the tungsten back there, making the filament thicker there and thus cooler. This keeps the filament even thickness throughout the life of the lamp, and makes it possible to run it so hot and thus be more efficient at making visible light. The glass as well has to run hot enough to react the tungsten vapour on it on the inner side to remove the blackening, which is why you should not run these lamps on a dimmer, as they will run too cold and blacken inside. I often took downlighter lamps ( 12V 20W) that had failed and rapped the glass till the broken filament ends reconnected, which then would weld together and, providing it was on for a good number of hours that day, would give it a new lease on life of a few months. The welded hot spot would gradually cool down as metal was deposited on it over the day. These lamps almost always fail at turn on as the cold filament expands and sags in the tungsten support loops, and breaks off somewhere. Running them for months on end 24/7 gives the best life, or starting them using a dimmer switch turned on from minimum to maximum, which reduces stress as it heats slower.

[@dandel351]

So how many amps does it draw at 1000w? Is that making the flex heat up a lot as well? It must be close to the maximum current for your mains supply. Here in Australia we have a 15 amp max on domestic power I reckon that lamp must be pulling around 24 amps so it would blow the fuses in our houses.

[@SzDavidHUN]

~4,5A@230V = 1000W 15A@230V = 3450W In Hungary we can request up to 32A or something like that, beyond that we have to pay extra. In our garage we have 60A electric meter, but "only" 24A circuit breakers. At home we have 2 16A circuits. Cant you request higher amp circuit? Or maybe an other phase?

[@SzDavidHUN]

That's a lot of power :D Can the wiring in the wall handle it? Our house was built in the soviet unions time, the wires can handle only a few amps, and not the best quiality. I think there arent proper earth connection.

[@seandempsey9396]

I uesd to fit them 1000w lamps on the scaffolding on building sites so the steal workers had light when doing the steal work for the foundations

[@vikramrajagopal5735]

Hi JW can sodium flood lamp be replace by halogen lamp, i mean can i remove the sodium balls flood lamp and put halogen in its place with out any modification?

[@jwflame]

No, a sodium fixture will contain a ballast and possibly a separate ignitor, neither of which is required for halogen.

[@willford8475]

Was there ever a follow up video to this?

[@jwflame]

Yes, several: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKbMYqWaYplgf5o

[@dhavalvyadav]

How can I reduce its brightness lets say this1000watt is way too bright for me, any solutions?

[@cmrd_hdcrb]

Get a smaller lamp. Porpably cheaper anyway.

[@derekrowlands1189]

Can you get LED bulbs that will fit a halogen?

[@jwflame]

Yes, but they are fairly expensive, and it's probably better to just replace the whole thing for one that is designed for LEDs.

[@SzDavidHUN]

What if I accidentally touch the glass? What sould i do? And i have a halogen floodlight, the glass is gone black before it gone out, it was used about a few hours before it gone out. What happened with it?

[@jwflame]

Clean the glass with acetone or similar. If it has gone black inside, it's the tungsten filament deposited on the glass, either due to age, operating at the wrong voltage, or the seals between the glass and wire failed causing the gas inside to leak out.

[@love2doofus]

You can clean the skin oil off with Methylated Spirits, Isopropyl Alcohol, Lens cleaning wipes or similar. Even a dry tissue is better than nothing (but not optimal).BTW - the outer envelope of the halogen lamp is QUARTZ, not glass. Glass would melt at the operating temperatures of the lamps, thus they use Quartz as the envelope material. However quartz is porous to oils, and it will overheat and "bubble" or "Crystalize" at the position where it was touched. This causes air leakage and fast bulb failure.

[@love2doofus]

The completely blackened one is a "leaker". Very common in linear halogens. When you install them, there is a lot of pressure at the ends and it's sometimes a bit of forcing and jigging to get them into the 2nd lampholder. If you are ham fisted they crack at the end near the ceramic and pinch seal joint... only needs to be a tiny crack and the air gets in so the bulb is stuffed. The other common problem is that poor reflector design in the fixture re-radiates infra-red heat back onto the lamp. This overheats the tungsten strips inside the pinch seals at each end, causing them to leak air which kills the lamp really fast.

[@TheSoxmania]

Whack a mogul base in that thing and slam in a 400w halide... that would be a decent yard blaster!

[@hamjazz]

yeharrr.

[@Coolkeys2009]

1 Kw lamp or heater :-) I'm sure I've seen electricians lighting up cigarettes on those.

[@ningis21]

Wow...1000 Watts ...I bet the equivalent...100 of your 10 Watt LED's would light up the whole street.

[@TheDutyPaid]

Guess it was pulling a 1000w

[@elektronikmaleinfach16]

in my collection are 2 times 10 000 watt incandescent light bulbs. i need a line 10 000 watt to. thex build lamps like these up to 100 000 watts :)

[@arnold2603]

Have you burn the forest?

[@uukknown]

What's the temperature output like?

[@jwflame]

Hot enough to burn after a few seconds.

[@TheSoxmania]

on par with what a 500w halogen enclosure gets like after a couple hours... so it'd be enough to fry an egg dead easy.

[@electric_leo1630]

I own a thorn new haline 1000w halogen floodlight

[@halesworth01]

Being so old would the internal wiring sheath be asbestos impregnated fibre John?

[@dos541]

I want to go to stewiestock

[@ikhwanulfikribest]

Not too bright. Philips led 23watt 3000lumens. If 10 led philips 23 watts installed 30000lumens. And will save power almost 80percent.

[@TheSoxmania]

LED isn't as efficient as a decent quality ceramic metal halide lamp. LED has an efficacy of 80 lumens per watt if you go with a super expensive one, whereas a good quality ceramic metal halide lamp can be as high as 110 lumens per watt. If we say you used a 400 watt LED and a pair of 400 watt metal halide lamps, one of a higher quality and light output to the other then we get a table like this: LED (80 lumens/watt): 32,000 lumens CDM (90 LUM/watt): 36,000 lumens - This is a more common middle-ground for ceramic metal halide lamps. CDM (110 LUM/watt): 44,000 lumens Not to mention with a ceramic halide lamp you get a massive longevity advantage over LED. Average MTBF50 (50% failures) for LED: 8,000 - 10,000 hours Average MTBF50 (50% failures) for CDM/HQI - 12,000 to 18,000 hours You don't quite get the same lumen maintenance as you would with an LED lamp as arc lamps diminish over time, but they last longer and generally keep up to 80% of their original light output by the time they fail, so they'd still be bright anyway. Not to mention you could just go totally nuts and use a low pressure sodium lamp. The lowest efficacy for one of those is 100 and the best built lamps can get up to 200 lumens per watt. That means that even a 35 watt lamp can put out between 3,500 and 7,000 lumens. Your only downside is that it has a CRI of -44 so for colour sensitive work it's a terrible light source unless you're going for a very specific effect. For laughs, I calculated a 400w SOX lamp would put out between 46,000 80,000 lumens depending on the efficacy of your chosen lamp.

[@andreim841]

I was under the impression you live in UK not in North Korea... Street lights going off at night... Now that's a brain fart...

[@OliverONeill]

Only small towns tend to. Not all lights go off, only the less important lights. There still tends to be lights along main roads.. but that depends on how big the town is. I think it's awesome, save so much energy and get to see the stars. Edit: i should mention, they turn off after midnight.. When no one usually uses the streets.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

I wish they'd turn off at midnight here :\ dang things

[@stefantrethan]

There are studies that show switching off the lights does not increase crime or accidents. The effect depends a bit on the area, demographics and so on, but don't forget that the criminals benefit from the light just as much as you do, if not more. It's a bit silly to keep them on all night long with nobody out there, you wouldn't do that with the lights in your house so I don't see how it is OK with public money.

[@dalriada842]

At my work, the main lights only go on when there are people about. Otherwise the dim emergency lights are all that are on. They could possibly use such a technique with street lights. That would highlight the presence of anyone up to no good.

[@OliverONeill]

i donno about your strange country, but over here people tend to not do that. Go back to your backwards "1st world" country.

[@paulmcmurtrie]

asbestos-braided cable?

[@NowAndThenEH89JW]

Umm nope? Fiberglass?

[@SeanBZA]

Outer sheath is fibreglass woven tube, and the inner is also fibreglass woven over either a silicone or vulcanised rubber ( depending on age) sheath over tinned copper stranded wire.

[@193811GOLD]

1000/240 = 4.16 amp

[@electric_leo1630]

What have you done with that floodlight?

[@jwflame]

The other videos here: kzbin.info/aero/PLVsHvs2SuqmpufXPIKv8sJX4NmBTAKiLx cover what happened to it.