1025R Turbo seized!! Back to stock for now

[@Erik-yk3yb]

My exhaust bracket had broken twice as well. Ended up having it straight piped from an elbow right off the turbo temporarily, I had Kevin send me a new exhaust bracket with a thicker metal plate. Haven't had an issue with that knock on wood. also bought some high temp silica thread locker as I noticed some of the bolts were not staying tight as well. haven't had an issue since then as well.

[@mymorristribe]

Thanks for posting that. Kevin sent me replacements as well. I'll try them as soon as I get the new turbo he's sending me. I'm probably going to remove the oil restrictor or at least use a less restrictive one to make sure oil is never an issue for my turbo. We'll see. I push mine pretty hard during snow season.

[@xjfo]

Thanks for sharing your experience and for keeping us updated on your turbo!

[@RJSOBO88]

What was the max boost set to when running it for 70 hours?

[@mymorristribe]

I don't know. There's no adjust for that. Whatever it comes with I guess. Good question for hydrosplus.com which is where I bought it.

[@GoGoggansGo]

This happens anytime a new kit blower or turbo comes out, i don’t care who makes it. I’d like to see him use a ball bearing turbo for long term reliability

[@mymorristribe]

I suppose if enough fail, he might. I just know that it was amazing for the 70hrs I used it, and hydrosplus responded to my email with a phone call within 4hrs and offered to overnight a new turbo ASAP. Can't beat that. Best thing ever for the anemic 1025r.

[@cs-gj3yf]

its cause they are using china cheap knockoffs, not surprised

[@GoGoggansGo]

That’s an oil pressure issue or a pcv issues causing the oil to blow past the seals. I’d recommend trying to run a direct crankcase breather. This is not uncommon in turbo engines to blow past the seals if the pcv system isn’t up to snuff i know he changed the plumbing for emissions with the kit. Just get a check valve breather and run it.

[@mymorristribe]

Kevin explained to me that while it's difficult to say definitively, it's most likely that (a) either the oil restrictor got clogged (not likely imo since it had a fresh oil change) or the turbo siezed first and without the shaft spinning oil doesn't flow through the turbo as easily and could then have pushed through the seals. Chicken or egg problem. Makes sense to me. As for pcv, it's vented into the air intake, so that's not an issue.

[@GoGoggansGo]

Either way it’s an oiling issues, this turbo kit is very old school so you need to remember that. So after you run the tractor hard and a lot of boost, let it idles for a few minutes after so the hot ass oil can be drained back into the pan. It wouldn’t surprise me if that also was apart of the issue, if you don’t do that it’ll eventually slowly destroy the turbo and it’ll fail. Also run full synthetic rotella baby lol T6, it’s a great turbo kit but i think his oiling system could potentially need some work. Past that run it

[@GoGoggansGo]

@@mymorristribeI’d recommend trying to prime the new turbo before install, try to crank it a few times so you don’t start it, and also put some oil into the turbo itself before install. That’s also a great way to have it fail premature,

[@mymorristribe]

@@GoGoggansGo Definitely an oiling issue. Took things apart and the T connector to run oil to the turbo was clogged. I drilled out the restrictor when I installed the new turbo. Check out my latest video on that.

[@mymorristribe]

@@GoGoggansGo Agreed. Should have done that. I put the return line into a bucket to see how the oil flowed and it took like 30secs at idle for oil to start dripping out, and that was with the drilled out restrictor.