125.8kg Half Crimp By The Strongest Climber in Sweden

[@EricKarlsson]

I procrastinated buying the progressor for years, and that was a big mistake. That's why I made this video, to showcase this amazing training tool and hopefully get you psyched to invest in it also :) tindeq.com/?post_type=product&ref=1522 Code: EKB 10%

[@Fred-oz3tw]

but how to train on these? just pulling for 5 seconds for 5 sets or?

[@EricKarlsson]

Yeah that's a pretty good way to do it :)​@@Fred-oz3tw

[@TheBanana202]

@@Fred-oz3tw Pulling as hard as you can for 5 sets seems like a recipe for injury, especially on a crimp. Probably figuring out your max first and then going for percentages. But then again just lifting with weights plus lifting pin and a portable hangboard seem much easier to train and adjust the weights with. Dont really see the advantage of this device.

[@EricKarlsson]

@@TheBanana202 You should never really pull as hard as you can for finger training, it should be a controlled high-effort pull.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

@@EricKarlsson okay thanks :)

[@mats1365]

Emil, Adam Ondra, Magnus x2, and now Eric as well? This must be the greatest day for climbing KZbin uploads ever!

[@EricKarlsson]

haha i realized that 1 hour ago, has to be some kind of record

[@lucassund8605]

It is a god day for sure

[@Jkbb6]

And beta routesetting too, awesome YT content of all types

[@Fred-oz3tw]

im overstimulated. i dont know what to do now.

[@scottwangkl8882]

The stars aligned

[@pxr3423]

as a fellow American fan of the channel, Micky really connects me to yalls vids with his familiar accent, swagger, and humor. don't change Micky :)

[@johannielsen463]

As always love the videos. So I will just mentioned (as a Tindeq owner) there a lot of ways to trick the device with the legs and throwing you body into and creating that initial shock like Micky did. So for example Alex's numbers using his style and slower pulling style is way way more impressive that Micky throw his body back and arching his back. Of course you did add the caveat that this is for fun and records not strength training per se. Pulling while not using your legs or back at all measuring only finger engagement is super interesting for training purposes and measuring record purposes. So "me" personally I would be way more interested to see those finger engagement numbers for everyone removing the back, bicep, and legs from the equation. Also some (Tyler Nelson highlight) believe that this form of active squeezing for training rather than the lock pulling done here in vid has far more upside for climbing crossing over.

[@EricKarlsson]

We tried out Mickys style of pulling and many more styles, slow and explosive, and we didn't really see a clear winner, that was the same for the pulling position, wich was fascinating, It will be fun to try smaller edges, and test pure finger strength and also 5-second holds and see what data we get there :) How long have you used your tindeq for btw?

[@jono6379]

To me I see these numbers as a measure of finger strength or grip strength rather than lifting power. I would like to see them try hard for 5 or 10 seconds and see who can get the best average over time

[@Andrew-ls9nc]

the device measures force, and if you can translate that force through your fingers, does it matter where the force is generated from?

[@cedricrust9953]

@@jono6379 nobody argued that it measures lifting power?

[@cedricrust9953]

@@Andrew-ls9nc yes, because a) the devide measures (at least as far as the highest number) a moment in time, not sustained force. In a climbing context, being able to use, let's say, 25% more force, for 1/10th of a second has hardly any benefit. b) you will never be in a climbing situation where your body is positioned the way they do in this video. If you get some of the force from your legs in this specific position, then it is not something you can replicate in a climb, therefore making it rather irrelevant for climbing purposes.

[@maryb2775]

the real mvp of the EKB channel is Micky's whoa nitro shirt. we love a sustainable king

[@jaimseygirl2594]

Best climbing channel! The hype and vibes are immaculate. Idk how you don’t have a million subs! Loved the vid as always. 🤙

[@kavali6320]

The matress at the end was a hilarious overkill 🤣. Boys and their toys ;)

[@farukbalc598]

I think Micky gets those high scores because he slams the pull with momentum. You should test with other people with the same technique.

[@EricKarlsson]

We did try that for nearly everyone and most of the time we all got a lower score, wich was fascinating. Micky also tried to pull slower and got nearly the same score

[@BAdinkersGaming]

W for answering that question@@EricKarlsson

[@cornball1111]

No Mickey is just a straight beam - natural beast!

[@JSJ_VISUALS]

It might have more to do with his morphology? E.g. leg to arm length ratio and how force can be transmitted from the ground through the legs and into the arms and fingers?

[@walkerl7485]

eric your videos always have the best music

[@chrisembry3736]

Fantastic video Eric and community. This is a great tool that I’ve never heard of. Thanks for sharing. I’ll definitely be buying one and adding to my training routine.

[@EricKarlsson]

Maan I'm psyched to hear that! Tag us on IG when you pull some numbers :D

[@davidwilson12590]

Nikken is looking very handsome with that new haircut 😅 also I always knew Micky was a beast but gahdayum that boy is an absolute UNIT

[@EricKarlsson]

Looking forward to finding more monsters around the world with the Tindeq :D really wonder how many people can beat Micky's BW%

[@theoneatyourdoor87]

Micky's laugh is adorable

[@TypicalClimber]

I love the Tindeq. It’s super impressive seeing all of your numbers pulled

[@kreparAZ]

I tried this recently and was equally as impressed with how useful the data can be to track over time to see if the training you’re doing is helping in this application or not. Great video on it Eric. It is truly a hoot to try with friends. Everyone has fun testing and comparing. Then trying it a month later and seeing where they fall. 🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@EricKarlsson]

So fun to hear that you had the same experience as us :D I'm looking forward to bringing it outside and really getting a solid, repeatable warm up routine with it also :D

[@Emleung55]

Just ordered one last week! Eric, you know you have to do a video on your training routine now right!? Great gains for the whole crew!

[@quinnthompson]

Dang, the climbing vids just kept dropping today. Awesome stuff!

[@xenonsens]

It would be interesting if you make another video where you explain and show the different tests you can do with the app. Also explain what they mean and how to read the results.

[@bwzr1337]

does anyone know where the white/grey chalk bag at 6:23 is from ?

[@mortilnis]

What did Mickey do to get so strong? Would love a video for his training plan/routine.

[@velislavslavov1443]

You mentioned that you weren't sure if Micky is so strong because of the way he trains, would you be interested in elaborating on that? Or making a video dedicated to the crew's different training styles?

[@robertcreer8826]

Cool to see Alex! We worked together in London

[@tomcharoy9919]

great video as always ! would very much like to see how Micky trains to be so strong

[@MaadcoClimbing]

Dude ! My pt friend brought that exact device to the gym just last week !! So fun to use. I’m curious about what made you guys decide to do it from the ground rather than suspended ? Might lend different results but I don’t know if having both datas would be interesting to you Anyways keep up the psych and great content 💪 cheers from France

[@EricKarlsson]

Ah thats great to hear! I feel its a lot better for my shoulders and it feels like we can get more control over the pulling, to feel more secure :)

[@MaadcoClimbing]

@@EricKarlsson sounds fair enough ! will give it a try ! Great tool for training and rehabing. Also super fun to use. I highly recommend the repeater function it's great to mesure force over time and consistency vs fatigue

[@nicktaylor1902]

If you're hanging by it you can't pull more than your body weight without strapping stuff on?

[@santinosartoris]

We are in a golden era of EKB videos

[@Xeratas]

God damn now i need to see magnus and adam

[@TheItdGames]

Very nice video! I think it would be more interesting though to use a 20mm edge, since most people train on that - makes it more comparable

[@EricKarlsson]

We will start to do this tomorrow :D

[@AlexandreFreitas99]

i think you should try the same test but with the progressor hanging instead of fixed on ground because no one had finger failure so if they have more leg strength the could pull more, thats probably why micky does so much cause he probably can do alot of weight on squats or leg press. anyway just an ideia great vid

[@EricKarlsson]

We tried from above also, the fingers was the limiting factor actually, once you reach the max effort pulls, the fingers lose the structure and you can't pull as much :)

[@vendrad]

Good fun!! Would be great to see if the power screaming made a difference for Micky. Retest with everyone being quiet and everyone screaming!

[@gingobingo1567]

How did you program this into ur schedule these past 4 months? Did you train with it before or after climbing or on different days?

[@EricKarlsson]

I trained it before climbing 3 days a week, I get the most out of my finger training that way :)

[@george1303]

Micky insane bro what

[@miriamlewis1751]

Hilarious start on that bloc by Teo at 12:34. :')

[@Chendadon]

Nikken is a great example the coordination on the wall is much more important than strength fingers. Not that im saying finger strength is not important, but not as climbers might think..

[@cornball1111]

Mickeys strength is just enjoyable for some reason - its so innocent! PS - Did you test Robin? He is such a special climber, would love to see more of him!

[@darksiders2002]

Some folks are recommending me to try climbing. Is it worth getting into?

[@connalmoran6980]

Would love to see mickeys training plan

[@wesleymgriffin]

What's your training program with the Tindeq like? Those sound like some impressive gains for 4 months.

[@EricKarlsson]

I did 3 sessions a week, and it was around 80% max pulls and hold for 5-7 sec, and I would do 3-4 sets each session :)

[@wesleymgriffin]

@@EricKarlsson thanks for the info! That's super helpful. How many reps per set? Was this just before climbing sessions, or was training a separate thing? And did you limit session time to try to leave room for recovery?

[@doemaeries]

What sized edge did they use in the beginning?

[@EricKarlsson]

25mm

[@severin2004]

What a day for climbing youtube goddamn

[@tartara6448]

Hey iam not that much into this toppic and correct me if iam wrong but dont you trick yourself by just lock your arm and push with your legs and whole body instead with your arm only?

[@EatPastaBeFasta]

so the biggest advantage of the tindeq, especially for home use, is you dont have to buy weights? Just asking cause I feel you could do everything pretty much the same with a lifting pin and weights

[@EricKarlsson]

That's one of them, but having very easy-to-use and accurate readings, especially warming up outside is a big one

[@EatPastaBeFasta]

Thanks @@EricKarlsson !

[@NikfangZ]

Micky is like Jonah from superstore if he started bouldering

[@Watercloud-11]

I think the crimp hold should be as close to the body as possible, right in front of you, and your legs should be slightly bent, back should be straight and strong. I think that would yield the most consistent results.

[@EricKarlsson]

has been really cool to see everyone find their preferred stance through all these testing periods, would be cool if we do find the prime position

[@alanconradd]

Everyone's numbers are insane on these! Eric, does this mean you're able to one arm hang from the beastmaker middle edge since you're pulling 123% bodyweight?

[@EricKarlsson]

I think i would need to maintain that pulling strength for 5 sec to be able to hang, goal for 2024 :)

[@cond4]

Video (Series) Idea: Depict a usual climbing/training week for the usual suspects on the channel. Would love to see how that looks like, especially the differences between everybody :)

[@genuity3001]

Something weird happened watching this video. Yesterday I was fighting a slabby 6C at the gym and made some good progress and I feel it in my hands today. When you guys fought the purple, "glassy" route it was like my hands reacted of some strange bodily memory and started sweating like crazy. I almost reached for an imaginary chalk bag on the couch. I'm gonna dub this "climber sympathy".

[@EricKarlsson]

haha I know that feeling very well, also, I tried touching those holds yesterday. They are way worse than I even thought they would be, boys are strong

[@harrypotters2807]

Is there anyway you can do another video but with a full grip Results!?!? And 10 ml results!?!?

[@EricKarlsson]

We are working on it :D

[@G.Giorgio]

I am wondering if the quick aggressive pulls lead to high max spikes that are significantly higher than the average cntrolled pull strength? I guess my question is if the score is an average over time or if you can just get a high score by using speed. Imo speed is aid xp

[@EricKarlsson]

We all tried explosive too, and we didn't see bigger numbers, most of us actually got lower scores, but maybe the explosive pulls work for the few and far between. Will test it more on different edge sizes and see what we get :) I think once the edges get smaller the less explosive the pulls will be because It's scary to go that fast on something small

[@ReveanceFX]

I'm guessing yes, since if you are quick enough & with enough momentum you measure the force your tendons and lingaments can pull to keep your bones together lol

[@nicolascormier5478]

I think that micky don't need more muscle recruitment for climbing xD

[@Andrew.Sluymers]

How is mickey not even 150 lbs and he looks like that 💀💀isn’t he tall too?? Goddamnnnn

[@ikarosdream5971]

I just bought the cheaper one and have been looking for this video hahaha. Ive only fiddled with it and it is incredible.

[@Tferdz]

Pay attention ⚠ to not start too dynamically otherwise you'll get higher values due to converting kinetic energy ⚡

[@designerbro7260]

I think in the test the leg length and what position they are pulling may matter. If you are pulling from a more squated position they should technically have a higher number of

[@EricKarlsson]

once you hit a certain weight, you just couldn't put any more force through the fingers before they just completely rip off the edge :D

[@4m-optimalsolution]

a good simulator that shows who has a good finger grip. But I do not understand a little that some people do not pull with their hands, but with their feet, is this normal?

[@guustvanuden2968]

i see nikken pulling with shoulder and arm while other pull with body and legs

[@Rockhug]

The number are outrageous, they are way beyond many word record...

[@Rocka-ue5od]

Maybe do the same technic? Sometimes it looks like a deadlift and you create force with your legs, nikken pulls just with his back and it looks like a row. Maybe it is just unclear and all of you tested different variations.

[@jonnes__4657]

🗽 187% of BW... that is insane! You should check Mickys finger geometry. Maybe it is the optimum for this 25 mm edge ?? .

[@EricKarlsson]

We will try to pull on 20mm edge tomorrow :D might sneak in 15mm,10mm also :D

[@xenonsens]

Haha, “It looked so easy, like there wasn’t a single bad hold, like a 7A or something”. 😊

[@nortonisraelsson2517]

how tall is micky?

[@TheValinov]

because... HE CAN ONLY PULL SO HARD BECAUSE HE IS SOOOO TALL!!!! ... right?

[@nortonisraelsson2517]

​@@TheValinovno. I just wanted to know his height since he looks so "muscular" at 67kg body weight.

[@TheValinov]

@@nortonisraelsson2517 that was a joke. and a no-joke. it's not easy being tall.

[@jonnes__4657]

🗽Is the 25 mm including the radius ?? Or is it the flat surface area? What is the radius? What is the surface structure? All that matters! .

[@harrypotters2807]

I just bought one and I love it

[@conserve_climber]

Dude? Two weeks since the last video?!?

[@EricKarlsson]

I'm sorry! :D been working on new videos, hopefully one goes live tonight :)

[@Revtheoryhellyeah]

It seems as though the pulls for most of the guys are not actually limited by finger strength. It's how hard they are actually pulling on the wire with the rest of their body. Mikka attacks it bent legs like a deadlift, whereas nikken has straight legs and is kind of twisting his body. If you think about lifting 125 kg on a bar, you will never get that with nikkens technique.

[@EricKarlsson]

Nikken tried Micky's approach but that didn't work for him, which I also found odd, cause I do a deadlift stand when I pull. We knew Micky had the strongest fingers in Sweden, even before testing the Tindeq, so it definitely plays a big role in the pull :) We will try on 20mm edge over the next few weeks and see how that goes :)

[@timmynastics]

Be interesting to see the correlation between deadlift weight and the force you can apply through the fingers. Maybe it would be better to do it from a pull up with the feet tied to the floor for climbing?

[@alexpdream677]

Just can't get away from the feeling that most of people haven't pulled with their strongest muscles (legs). So these measurements hardly define how strong fingers of these athletes are, but maybe how much weight can their shoulder or bicep pull

[@ryansams1271]

Strong numbers, but you should test with more of a finger curl for actual finger strength. Everyone seems to be pull with their arms or treating it like a deadlift which will give you those high numbers.

[@ryansams1271]

I believe Dr. Tyler Nelson has a video demonstrating the technique

[@Hacky87]

Why dont you try it at 20 mm?? This is the most used traininggrip and its easyer to compare

[@EricKarlsson]

We are testing that the next few weeks :D

[@Hacky87]

great :) I pull right 54 Kg and left 57 with 70 Kg bodyweight so im ealy wondering how strong you guys are :) @@EricKarlsson

[@davyvanderschoot6406]

187% bw is outrageous

[@agartz4104]

Get Yves on this it would be sick

[@EricKarlsson]

We actually spoke to him and he told us his records on 20mm edges and smaller, will test the strength on those edges also :D

[@Athvia]

TEO WIEGHS HOW MUCH ONLY?????

[@EricKarlsson]

Yeah he's working on gaining more weight, 61kg is not optimal for his size

[@G.Giorgio]

How do you know the optimal weight for your size in climbing?

[@Athvia]

@@EricKarlsson sorry i hope it didnt come across as insensitive, i just couldnt believe it when i saw it 😅

[@ericmcelyea5089]

The hold is secured in front of them so they naturally rotate left to make it an incut instead of a flat edge. For reference Megos pulls 72kg overhead in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXutn6qdrc9-a6M , so these random strong bros are pulling almost 60kg more?

[@yannickfrogel3537]

Why is every single vid on this channel ads recently? What a decline 😔

[@EricKarlsson]

Eey previous video had no sponsors ;) also buy the Tindeq 😍

[@metiks111]

At this point you are probably limited by your leg strenght/dead lift strenght more than your grip strenght.

[@R...-...R]

I may be wrong, but Micky leaned his body back during the pulling test, using his bodyweight a lot more than the others, who were just pulling. I hope i'm clear enough :/ maybe that explain a bit why he pulls a lot more than the other guys

[@gatosospechosop3]

I guess i’m third or something?

[@feign.o]

hernia speed run

[@duhai1836]

can't you use your legs for a short push to falsify the results? i think everybody would have to use the exact same technique to compare accurately. Nice challenge thou

[@shannonsmith6228]

First in Aus

[@TheSarcasticEngineer]

1,000th liker. You're welcome. I kinda don't like this though. Chasing numbers always lead me to injury.

[@BAdinkersGaming]

"Strongest Climber in Sweden" is american, good one lol

[@Frosie_]

I was there when he hit the PR feels good man

[@JustinCasey216]

the test should be the same throughout. some are standing on a weight and lifting others are cheating and using the pole or post ;p

[@TannerForrest]

First booooiiiiiii

[@EricKarlsson]

legend is back on top :D

[@fryske.tynster]

not a legal atempt

[@sin77rus]

isn't is simple scale for 200$. =))

[@ericlin158]

It is a $200 force gauge but that’s cause it syncs with Bluetooth and it has software with training protocols and a way to track progress on different pulls and protocols.

[@anteeantee8144]

very bad test in my opinion hanging with weight would be the true test what you are testing here is more about the force your whole body can produce... its a lot of leg drive a very strong deadlifter with an ok grip would beat you all even though he wount beat any of you in climbing there is a static test for deadlift thats nearly the same as yours that tests how much force you can produce and dont be fooled... most lifters are good in the half crimp: we hold a lot of stuff just with our fingers

[@Arithmophobia]

not really, for 99% of climbers the fingers are gonna be the limiting factor long before their legs max out

[@anteeantee8144]

@@Arithmophobia yeah cause deadlifting with your fingers is standard climber training protocol right?... i dont see anyones grip breaking here... if the grip doesnt break its not the limiting factor... the drive trough the kenetic chain is...

[@Juanperez-nm9kj]

huh i don't know if Emils pull is legit, cause you can see that the form of his fingers changed to pull more, it was half crimp then open hand, thought it was just only a half crimp pull

[@MythAvatar]

0:50 this is not a half crimp. This is terrible form.