14 Bolt Disc brake conversion part 2

[@lonnieblackwell9215]

I always use my old races to drive in the new ones. Good video.

[@Offroadfarm1]

Thanks for watching

[@rylanreasons7116]

do you just hook the brake lines back up or do you need a proportioning valve

[@philly2x]

I'm gonna do this to my truck. Might even get .1 miles per gallon better as a bonus to better stopping power and less rotational mass.

[@Offroadfarm1]

Thanks for watching

[@joebatta8779]

How does the hub separate from the brake drum?

[@Offroadfarm1]

You have to remove the lug studs. The hold the drum to the hub. You can press them out or knock them out with a BFH. I pressed mine out. Check out 0:31 I’m pressing the studs out. At 1:07 I pressed them all out and the hub just lift out of the drum. Thanks for watching!

[@jasonlyons8361]

I feel dumb too. It looks like you're using the drum so you don't damage the hub and the drum already looks separate. I thought the drum sits on the hub, so the drum would have to lift off the hub

[@Offroadfarm1]

@@jasonlyons8361 1988 to 2000 SRW axles did have a drum that just slid on the hub. Earlier axles are like mine, the hub is retained by the lug studs and must be pressed out to seperate the two. Thanks for watching

[@sxepride]

What size socket do you use to remove the race in your video? I need to get me one of those

[@Offroadfarm1]

I think that was a proto 2 and 1/16 inch socket. Thanks for watching1

[@codymoncrief8478]

I like engine assembly line for pre-lubricating the bearings and seals.

[@matthewjeschke]

Id use your press tonpush that race in. They make tools specifically for pressing races and bearings. Are pretty cheap... otherwise if you have a massive socket that works too lol

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Tapered bearings like that should be packed with high temp grease

[@Offroadfarm1]

The 14 bolt has oil bath hubs. I know some people still pack the bearings but I've helped work on quite a few big truck axles that are also oils bath hubs. Never seen one packed before putting it in and seen very few failures. Grease won't hurt anything unless you have a friction type limited slip.

[@LooseLoad]

Do you have a link to where you get these hub seals, bearings and races from?

[@Offroadfarm1]

I got everything as a package from lugnut4x4.com. He includes seals with the kit and you have the option to add bearings and races, which I did. lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-full-float-rear-disc-conversion-kit/ Thanks for watching

[@lucascantrell3623]

@@Offroadfarm1 Did factory lugs work with that rotor?

[@Offroadfarm1]

@@lucascantrell3623 yes they worked just fine

[@matthewjeschke]

Packem, I would always pack the needle bearings.

[@wncrcandoffroad3919]

What disc kit did you go with?

[@Offroadfarm1]

I got the kit from lugnut4x4.com. You pick the correct kit for your axle setup, then you can customize the kit for you. I went with the older 14 bolt kit since my drums were stud mounted, and upgraded to the emergency brake calipers

[@wncrcandoffroad3919]

@@Offroadfarm1 that was the exact kit I was looking at. How would you rate the ease of the install? I have access to tools if there is something I dont have. But I will be working in the front yard trying to get it done in one weekend

[@Offroadfarm1]

If you have access to all the tools you need you should be able to get it done in one weekend easy. The only thing that could mess you up is if you run into a seal issue like I did. Just paint all your parts ahead of time and should easily be able to do at least a wheel a day. You may even get the whole thing done in a day

[@wncrcandoffroad3919]

@@Offroadfarm1 what tools are required? I have sockets wrenches jack and stands. I don't have a seal puller but I could buy one.

[@Offroadfarm1]

I wouldn't buy a seal puller. I don't have one, just use a big chisel or prybar. Sounds like you should have most of what you need. Make sure you have either a press or BFH to remove and install the studs in the drum/rotor. And a block of wood cut to size to knock the new seal back in if you don't have a seal driver that big. Also may need a line wrench for getting the brake lines loose. Good luck and thanks for watching

[@jeffleblanc8850]

Maybe the key way was suppose to be like that I wouldn’t use lithium gear oil will go in that I would just put gear oil

[@Offroadfarm1]

I only used the lithium grease because I knew it was going to be a while before I got around to finishing the rear end (I still haven't). I wanted something that would stick to those bearings and prevent rust. Thanks for watching

[@jeffleblanc8850]

You should have a real seal bar comes out better than a crowbar

[@Offroadfarm1]

You would think with all the tools I have, that I would have a seal puller! I need to get one

[@dawg1157]

There's another video on KZbin where the guy tried to remove the seals on a 14 bolt with a seal puller and he actually bent the puller. Those seals are in there really damn snug. I just go with a crowbar whenever possible.

[@davidgroskopf7898]

I always put the hub back on the axle (with out outer barring )thread the nut on to the axle and give the hub a solid yank it will pull the barring and seal off together. Works on most hubs

[@tomhubbard353]

@@davidgroskopf7898 Or just smack the bearing with a big punch and nock the seal right out,,,,as long as your replacing bearings.