$15 Uke Kit Build

I wanted to build my own ukulele, so I bought the cheapest kit I could find....
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The kit: s.click.aliexp...
A cheap uke that actually works: s.click.aliexp...
Acrylic ink: amzn.to/3MbfT38
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Triple thick glaze: amzn.to/3t72Vuo
#kitbuild #ukulele #ukekit

[@EagleOxford]

The nut. No nut, then perfectly measured and attached nut. You should have certainly shown something as critical as the exact placement of such a vital part of the instrument. If the nut or bridge is wrong, then no amount of tuning will save the piece. I own nine guitars including various stringed basses, 4, 6, 7, and twelve string guitars, three of which I built. The nut placement and type of nut(roller bearings, locking, etc.) has been the most nerve racking, remeasurement inducing, hair pullingest, part of the repairs and builds I have done. You'll see if you keep building, and I hope you do! Show the nut placement in the future, it will definitely help anyone who is building while using your videos for assistance. Keep it up Maker. 🕊️♥️🍀🧠🎶💪🏼

[@jsmxwll]

Fun build. Definitely cheap but a pretty good introduction to building an instrument. A lot simpler than a full build kit. I think it's probably worth it even if you're gonna toss it when you're done, if you don't have any experience. Pretty much anything afterward will feel more comfortable. Subbed. Just a little glue trivia, feel free to ignore. Any pva glue is likely stronger than the lignen in the wood and so the wood will delaminate before the glue. Even the cheapest school glue will do this. The concern I'd have is whether or not the glue has gotten old enough to stop working correctly. As long as it is smooth, it's probably fine. The thinner stuff takes much longer to dry but also usually has less acid in it which will yellow less but also glue fewer materials, though this isn't an issue for non-oily woods. I've used Elmer's glueall and school glue for plenty of projects. They have no resistance to water though, so that's worth keeping in mind. Most wood glues have additives for a much shorter open time and acids that can help bond to more oily woods, but the actual adherence isn't any stronger because pv has almost no strength on its own.

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

You painted were the neck joins the body, the glue will probably not get a strong hold there. Not that matters if you're going to use for parts anyway.

[@jordanscottmacaulay]

Great job. I used super glue on my plastic fret board and it worked out well... i was lucky that my neck lined up with the body though.

[@randellino]

I just dry fitted mine $18 made it on Amazon now, no glue or paint with mine. My only question is how the top bridge connects to the neck... Also thinking about trying plastic two part adhesive for the feet board, we'll see.

[@mgamga9476]

I got it. I want to try this also. $15? What do you expect. I have built many many guitars. Never anything cheap like that. If you can tune it and it stays in tune. You were successful.

[@Callum-ps9sl]

I used gorilla glue for the fret board and it doesn’t go up, and is perfectly on it.

[@Echo3_]

Fret board to neck first also mark and sand the neck joint and clamp while curing,

[@kirstyhall8940]

We have 2 small circles in our box that I think are called sound points. Where do they go?

[@markbrodie7491]

Great video! Very helpful. I'm building a very similar kit right now, and I'm wondering about the best glue to use to adhere the plastic fretboard to the wooden neck. Would you recommend the hot glue as a first choice, or something else? Thanks!

[@Patrick_Gibney]

I would avoid hot glue if you can. Something like 5 min epoxy would probably work best

[@markbrodie7491]

Last night I used Gorilla Glue with lots of clamps, and it worked great!

[@Patrick_Gibney]

Awesome!

[@sskkuuddrraa]

Dude, sand between coats. It makes a difference :D

[@StevDoesBigJumps]

Dude, why didn't you cut the bottom of the fretboard? That would've solved your issue. There's no frets on it anyway, so if you insist on having it, you could just glue the remainder onto the body. If you were willing to freestyle with the paint, glue and filling dents and cracks, why a little bodywork? Also, no scuffed sound demo 0/10

[@_Hanover_]

If you have fun building something that is worth the $15

[@Patrick_Gibney]

I agree! The main goal was to hone the ink-staining technique and that went well, luckily

[@slothzombi307]

I just received a kit that looks identical to yours, but no cheap paint, and I paid $23. It came with very confusing instructions which said to check out youtube videos for help. And the hole in the neck for the dowel is off center, so need to drill a couple new holes.

[@profparadox]

I bought this ukulele for the purpose of using it’s parts for a cookie tin ukulele.

[@jstandsforlove]

you have a patreon for this stuff? please stop suggesting people to try your gluegun builds you might discourage people who are starting on music. btw it looks fancy. did you choose the colors and adjust the nut and saddle yourself? its really nuts and very saddle!

[@ryansaper]

Get Frog tape. It's a special painters tape that prevents bleeding from stains and lacquers.

[@iwillprove]

Bro string are good or not and sound also ? Tell me

[@Patrick_Gibney]

Yeah, the strings seem fine

[@jordanscottmacaulay]

I just built nearly the same kit. Only difference was that my bridge was different. The strings are junk. I bought new strings and spent time fixing the action and this all made a world of difference. Turned it into a perfectly playable instrument where as before it would not hold tune longer than a minute.

[@LB-ei5py]

cooler

[@LB-ei5py]

more comments

[@LB-ei5py]

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[@Kevins-Philippine-Retirement]

Wow! That kit was junk. I have built one guitar from a kit, and many other fretted instruments from scratch. One guitar I built, I sourced really good woods from luthier supply shops including Stewart McDonald. After about 300 hours of work it turned out to be a real gem. The last one I built was a baritone uke of my own design which was used as an accompament instrument at many fun parties.