180º thermostat install - 5.7L HEMI

[@Underdogbuilds]

**REMEMBER TO BLEED YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM!** - heat the forbidden bolt if it doesn’t budge pretty easily, they tend to round out/strip! RECOMMENDED FAN SETTINGS FOR USE WITH THE DIABLO TUNING: In order to take full advantage of your HHP 180 degree thermostat, on applicable vehicles with adjustable fan settings, we recommend the following fan temperature adjustments on your Diablosport tuner. Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.

[@sladertater]

I put a 180 in but forgot to change fan speed and they only come on at 220 degrees while idling

[@Underdogbuilds]

@@sladertater I highly recommend the fan setting seen above 😄 from sitting through traffic for the Woodward dream cruise, to doing some nice burnouts and making 1/4 mile passes right after, to driving in as low as 37-38°, this thermostat with those fan settings has been perfect! No dropping back below operating temp and I haven’t seen above 190° unless I’m turning my vehicle off to get gas after some spirited runs. And with the stop thermostat I would’ve seen 200-220° in the same exact situation. I absolutely love it! The last test is to see the longevity of this thermostat, I have heard that they don’t last too long from some folks and from some other folks, I’ve heard that they’ve had the same thermostat in for 5+ years.

[@lukemei5ter]

So I'm about to do this on my 300c, im a little confused about the bleeding method after installing. Did you have any issues after coolant draining out onto belt near electrical components, I've heard it varys but its usually harmless

[@lukemei5ter]

Also, im scared that even installing the cool temp thermostat i don't have a diablo tuner to reset the fans. :/ does anybody know where I can find a reliable source to buy one that is legit

[@Underdogbuilds]

@@lukemei5ter sorry for just getting back to you, I just ended up seeing this. I did have some coolant spill during the install but a nice thorough rinsing took care of that. If you put the car up on jack stands or ramps it’ll prevent this from happening for the most part. I rinsed everything thoroughly after bleeding the system. Heat that bolt up a tad if it doesn’t come loose with a bit of force, they tend to get stuck and round out. Just make sure to check the coolant when you drive for a couple days after the install, you’ll probably need to top off the coolant tank a time or two. As for the Diablo tuner, you could grab one from Holley performance, they’re the manufacturers (they purchased Diablo a few years back - actually that was in 2014…. 10 years ago. Time flies, haha.) or you could purchase a MPVI for HP tuners and tuning credits. Credits from HP Tuners' credit-based licensing system can be used to purchase licenses that allow you to tune a vehicle's control module (PCM), including ECMs and TCMs. The number of credits needed for a license varies by vehicle. I believe ours require 100 credits, but double check to be sure. The fans are very useful, they will work in unison to keep everything in a cooler range (180°-190°, sometimes 195°) rather than 200°-215°+. You will be fine for a bit with fans at the stock settings, the thermostat just won’t be as useful and efficient at keeping this cool, but some folks keep stock fan setting honestly. You just want to make sure you don’t set them too low or they will fail/burn out prematurely. I hope I gave a helpful synopsis 😄

[@MarkusTheThird-cu3qj]

I need a 190° t-stat for my daily! Love the little video of the install. I hope to see more installs that are more in depth.

[@billybobbarker3175]

Great video. Showing how simple it is and good tips all way through. The discolouring of the old stat just means that the 4year cycle of replacing coolant was not done. Over time coolant breaks down chemically and turns to acids. The colour otherwise means nothing wrt if it is working properly or not. So, a oem premium SuperStat was taken out and a standard grade Motorad went in. Got it. PS: 180 is too cold for a Hemi if you want it to last tens of thousands of miles. Stock temp is 203. Colder is not better. The middle road option is the 192.

[@1badplumracing186]

Good tip also is to put the car up on ramps before starting this. You will not lose as much coolant and much easier to fill without causing air pockets.

[@Underdogbuilds]

Thank you for the advice man, I’ll have to put the car on ramps next time!😁🫱🏻‍🫲🏼

[@ritacarter8200]

I have a 2005 Chrysler 300c with a 5.7. It has a nearly new radiator and a new water pump and thermostat. I wasn’t having any issues with it overheating. The other day it ran hot so I pulled into a parts store and turned off the motor until I could find the problem. Problem was the bottom hose going from the radiator to the reservoir was off, don’t know how or why 🤷 but I put it back on and every since I have been having problems with the temperature gauge topping up to the overheating point. I have burped it twice from the reservoir but haven’t found the tools yet to remove the bleeder plug and it is still doing the same thing. I’m starting to think that I should replace my thermostat again because the hose connected to it gets extremely hot. Should I replace it with the 180 thermostat or the superstat thermostat

[@Underdogbuilds]

@@ritacarter8200 sorry that I’m just now seeing this, have you resolved the issue? It sounds like a sticky thermostat or an air pocket now that the hose is back in place. I’m going to be going with a 707 performance thermostat delete kit. With one of the rings is comes with you run the same temps as a 180° t-stat. My 180° t-stay failed a little over a year after I installed it. I have another one in until I pull the motor apart this winter. Bleeding from the bleeder is always best. if you look at the water pump off the car, you can see where the bleeder pulls and where an air pocket would get trapped. I’ve had a couple folks reach out with the same type of issue

[@ritacarter8200]

@@Underdogbuilds thank you for responding, I got it fixed and probably 3 weeks later the top hose busted and I replaced it, of course we had to burp it again. She is a real trooper! I have pretty much replaced everything!

[@Jhrivera621]

Good stuff. You did it correctly. I went with the 170 thermostat and it stays between 181 and 185. Unfortunately it’s sucks during the cold season because if I don’t let it get up to temp, it’ll throw a code because it doesn’t reach proper temperatures.

[@Underdogbuilds]

Thank you brother🤞🏼🙂 that 170° thermostat is gnarly! After having it in for a while, I seem to see between 185° and 190°. I may swap to a 170° when I get these modifications in place! Sounds like a great t-stat for track use, perfect for the 300C!😄 That’s very useful information about the cold season, thank you for letting me know! Luckily, I’ll be able to keep the car put up for most of the winter. I’ll get it out on nicer days to take for a spin so she doesn’t sit all winter. I’ll have to keep that in mind if I have a 170° t-stat in the car next winter. The car was garage kept for 17 years, I had to drive it through a winter in a half, but now she’s going back to hibernating for the cold seasons, haha. Hopefully I can keep her one of the cleanest 1st gen 300s in the mid west! I hope you have a great day man!

[@five7phew550]

That’s what mine is doing right now. I might switch back to the 203 this weekend

[@Jhrivera621]

@@five7phew550 Yeah it’s best if you don’t have to time to let it sit and warm up, especially if you’re in a rush. I usually hit the remote start and let it sit while I get ready in the morning. It stays running for about 15 minutes until it shuts off on it’s own if I don’t get out the in time but those 15 minutes are more than enough to get it up to temp.

[@gregq_]

The SpongeBob reference was elite 😂😂😭 2:00

[@Underdogbuilds]

😂😭🫱🏻‍🫲🏼 thank you brother, I swear it was playing in my head as I grabbed the t-stat from the bottom of the engine bay!

[@DaddyDRIFT300]

7:17 you in Michigan?

[@iamdjlee1837]

Just subscribed keep posting almost at 1k

[@Underdogbuilds]

Thank you brother🙏 I appreciate you! Much more to come, this is only the beginning of the build and channel!😄🫱🏻‍🫲🏼

[@Land_Yacht_Garage]

Oh lord she sounds good 😩

[@Underdogbuilds]

Thank you mannn! I can’t wait to hear & see what you do go that beautiful Cadillac! I’d love to get my hands on one in the future!😄🙏🤞🏼 once I get this custom x pipe fabricated by a nice shop the exhaust will be finished, I can’t wait to see how it sounds!😵‍💫

[@christopherwertman125]

Will reducing the temp cause it to burn differently, and gum up the o2 sensor and catalytic converter?

[@Underdogbuilds]

For daily driver applications, you’d experience more carbon build up as 5.7L HEMIs run at 203°-220° ish to help prevent carbon build up. For something being geared towards racing/thrashing it’s better as it helps combat the heat soak that’s bound to occur at high RPM operation. As to it gumming up catalytic converters and o2 sensors, I’ll have to do research as I honestly don’t know 100% and do not want to speak out of turn. I’m definitely interested in researching it now that you’ve brought the matter up!

[@Formerlywarmer]

What makes y’all change the fan on temp to 180? Running the fans less is best so leave em to come in at 199-200. Mine use to run most of the time after I changed to the 180 they come on rarely and go off pretty quick as I expected them to do.

[@Underdogbuilds]

You’re right. That was what was recommended when I purchased the 180° tstat a good while ago (I took a long while to get around to installing it as well). Many people on the forums running these thermostats were misleading people. Once I saw the message that HHP put out that said “In order to take full advantage of your HHP 180 degree thermostat, on applicable vehicles with adjustable fan settings, we recommend the following fan temperature adjustments on your Diablosport tuner. Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.”, I ended up changing fan settings and broadcasting it across my social media platforms (I also put this information in the pinned comment under this video). Luckily I found the info on fan settings very shortly after install.

[@Formerlywarmer]

@@Underdogbuilds you are a good man! Just seems to me that ppl would’ve seen that clearly to begin with. All that fan run time wearing them out and loading the alternator needlessly. I have everything on At factor setting they rarely run unless the AC is on and it stays between 180-190. That’s a good temp for everything but that cel 😂.

[@Underdogbuilds]

I most definitely agree! For some reason Diablo themselves said to drop all fan settings 20° for HS, MS, and LS. It’s interesting that they put that information out there, especially when it contradicts what High Horse Performance says. After I did some more research into the fans settings and all on forums I thought of the HHP website and read through the description. High Horse Performance stated “In order to take full advantage of your HHP 180 degree thermostat, on applicable vehicles with adjustable fan settings, we recommend the following fan temperature adjustments on your Diablosport tuner. Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.” And I most definitely trust them more, especially in this situation. I have been enjoying this 180° thermostat very much though, the car goes away for the winter so it’s a great thermostat for me. I did drive it in 37-38° weather on the way to the storage facility last year and she did great! No CEL or any wonkiness to be seen.

[@Formerlywarmer]

@@Underdogbuilds I get cel and code says tstat not operating or something to that affect. I’ve got an old 1988 Grand Cherokee 5.9 with a 180 I changed to and get a code on that one too. Guess I’ll just learn to live with it. MOPAR2YA

[@Backdoor_boyz]

I heard it’s bad to run the 180 thermostat, is that true or is the net getting to me

[@heatmoon]

Don't change away from factory, I had problems using a cooler thermostat.

[@bobbyjohnson1689]

Mines was running 230-242 soon as I hit it I’m never buying aftermarket oem

[@Underdogbuilds]

Depending on application. For daily driving a 190° thermostat would be okay but I would stray away from the 180°. Mishimoto t-stats are known to have issues. There’s no issue with running a cooler thermostat. I have for a while now and yes, I put real street miles on it (4,000+ miles, plenty of burnouts, sat in traffic during the Woodward dream cruise, etc.) the 203° thermostat combats carbon build up, for daily driving applications it best. Some people run the 203° daily and pop a 180° motorad in for track days.

[@Underdogbuilds]

Definitely a faulty thermostat. Sounds like it was stuck closed. I haven’t seen north of 198° making 1/4 mile passes and taking full advantage of that burnout box.

[@Underdogbuilds]

A cooler thermostat may be best depending on the application. 180° thermostats and cooler are for performance oriented vehicles. Not to be daily driven mostly; however, many people have daily driven with motorad 180° thermostats with no issues for thousands of miles. You can drive with them in fairly cold weather (38° ish) as well. I tested it recently. I would recommend 190°+ for daily driving. My buddy runs a 190° t-stat in his srt8 every day as a daily with 0 issue.

[@omaraguilar1317]

Ok so let me tell you with my experience with these thermostats, i have an 06 charger rt and had installed a 180 stat and it worked really well i had the fans turned on at 180. My engine temp was always at 180 to 200 depending on outside temperature, one day it was going up to 210 and i got a lil worried but was assured that it was ok to go into that temp. A couple days pass by and the car is constantly at 215 so by this point i park the car and dont drive it for like 2 days i get a new thermostat ordered but when i go to start the car to pick up the part it turns on but is running extremely rough and is definitely misfiring like on multiple cylinders, i have to get the car towed to a mechanic where they inspect and come to the conclusion that a faulty thermostat caused the engine to overheat and drop 2 valve seats. The mechanic said that this was in fact do to the thermostat being stuck closed. I only had the thermostat for a couple months before it failed and caused the damage. I knew the engine would eventually have that failure but the mechanic assured me that it was in fact do to the engine running hot, he said 90% of that type of failure is caused by overheating the engine then shutting it off, as the engine cools down the 2 diffrent types of metals cool at diffrent rates causing the seats to drop.

[@Underdogbuilds]

100%, the valve seat issue is very common. It’s happened with many 203° thermostats that were faulty and had gotten stuck open as well. Also from coolant hoses blowing or radiators cracking and people not realizing until the motor shut off from overheating. We’ll see how the thermostat does, it’s been in for a good minute and she’s been running perfect. Won’t jump over 190° and won’t drop below 180° once it’s up to temp. She’s a “toy” so she doesn’t get driven 24/7. For daily drivers I recommend the stock thermostat or a 190°. Mopar sells these thermostats are part of there direct connections kits and all for drag racing but they’re for performance oriented vehicles that are more so “track toys” or “street cars”. If the vehicle ever tops 200° with this t-stat, a new one would be ordered that day. (And with multiple burnouts and full 1/4 mile passes, she never topped 195°, so after 195° It would most definitely capture my attention. I constantly monitor temps and gauges, haha. The valve seat issue is fixable and preventable with the reworking of your pre-eagle heads by a company like mmx or a local shop, by swapping to eagle heads, or by grabbing some aftermarket heads like Edelbrock. The true failure rate of the 5.7L Hemi, in comparison to the amount of motors produced, is right about 5%. (The other main issue with lifters is thought to be able to be solved with an improved and higher performance oil pump as well.) I have seen some of these thermostats faulty straight out of the box, my buddies mishimoto through codes and was instantly faulty. But I have also seen the same thing with the 203° thermostat, there are many for threads about the thermostat being stuck closed. If the build is a performance build, or you’re looking to improve the amount of horsepower readily available, combating heat soak, it’s a great month. If you daily drive the vehicle, it’s not necessarily the best mod especially due to the fact that the 203° thermostat combats carbon build up. It also increases fuel economy. If you don’t mind me asking, what did you do for the rebuild? Did you take it back to stock or did you throw some upgrades at it. my buddy works in the corporate division of Chrysler as an engineer and I’ve had him look over my 300, I was concerned after a bit, but all the noises head ping. My heads & most of the motor were most likely rebuilt by the 1st/previous owner. I do have ported and built heads on the way though to combat this issue. I also wanted to mention that I have seen these heads be extremely resilient, my buddy blew a coolant hose and temp spiked over 230° multiple times, of course he had to shut it down immediately. Temps spiked on the way home multiple times and he shut her down when he got home, to my surprise… they’re perfectly fine. But hey, at least they fixed it in the eagle heads, haha! I hope you have a great day! (Has the car been trouble free since the catastrophic failure? Just wondering. Also, how has the NAG1 trans treated you? I’m genuinely interested.)

[@corruption1724]

Been through 6 motorad thermostats and have yet to find one that doesn't start sticking after a few drives. There's literally no other brands that aren't made by motorad.

[@isaacsotelo2598]

@@corruption1724me to cut one open to delete it and to restrict flow

[@thesupersaiyan6454]

Can you run this thermostat in the winter. I live in central Tx and don’t want to change it again in the winter.

[@Underdogbuilds]

They can be for sure, it depends how harsh the winter season is around you. With you being in Texas I’d say you’re all good (unless it drops in temp majorly like it did this past winter) I know quite a few folks who run it in the winter, some of them have had a CEL come on a time or two when the motor rose above operating temp, then dropped back below. I will say that I drove my car from my house to the indoor storage facility in 37-38° weather and it acted perfectly fine. The temp rose above 180° and stayed there, it was probably a 4 mile drive and it ended up hitting operating temp fairly quickly even though it was cold cold.

[@RRTDC]

just subscribed, keep it up 💯

[@Underdogbuilds]

I appreciate you man! Many more videos to come!

[@RRTDC]

@@Underdogbuilds hell yeah bro, can’t wait

[@mechwex]

i cant seem to get the air out of my hemi. ill bleed it and keep adding fluid and bubbles just keep coming out. Ive replaced literally EVERYTHING related to cooling system as far as head gaskets. Everything was done exceptionally. But theres still air leaking. Not sure what steps to take. i just changed t-stat to see if that would fix it and it kind of did. But it eventually all bubbled out of resovoir. any tips on bleeding system and coolant to use? i was using distilled water for coolant flushes

[@randy1ization]

do you be seeing a big improvement with the cold air intake?

[@randy1ization]

did the tune give u another 25 horses like diablo claims? also the cold air intake makes sense, underneath the air fliter housing the ducting transitions to a 1.5 inch round hole, starving the engine for air..

[@Underdogbuilds]

The Diablo tune for sure woke it up a tad, I could feel the difference, but I can’t 100% attest to any numbers. Do I believe so? Yes. I do not have direct evidence to support those claims though. It is most definitely handy for disabling MDS, 100% of the traction system, adjusting fan settings, and firming up the shifts a little bit. The cold air intake seems to be nice as my buddy has one on his 6.1L making north of 500 HP. My long tubes just heat up my engine bay more than those stock manifolds so under that hood gets a bit toasty. I have a project going with the OEM lights to get some ambient air up in the engine bay🙂 To respond to your other comment as well, there was noticeable improvements with the K&N intake but not drastic. The stock air box will typically produce better numbers on the dyno and better ETs at the track unless you have some nice ambient air being sucked/rammed in. The car stayed really cool with it without the t-stat, it’s would hover around 200-203 max. But of course with the t-stat I’m rockin right about 183°-190° and I love it!

[@randy1ization]

looking down in the airbox, how much it gets restricted before it goes to the bottom of the engine bay concerns me,., I also noticed some oil in the bottom of the filter housing, and on the filter.. what I suspect is happening, is that the engine is pulling so much vacuum, thru the small restrictive ducting, it cant pull what it needs, so it also pulls thru the crankcase vent hose.. also my car has the california emmisions system so im wondering if part of that is that they detune the engine for a more pollution minded engine than a performance standpoint... dont get me wrong, my 06 300c hauls ass.... but I would like to get it to its full potential... it only has 57.600 miles on it, so it should have plenty of life left in it... I see them for sale around me with 170 to 200 thousand miles, still running strong.. @@Underdogbuilds

[@randy1ization]

also have you changed the fluid and filter in your transmission?

[@randy1ization]

let me know how it goes with the air intake... if the round restriction could be opened up under the airbox, then a high flow filter be used in the stock airbox, I think it would be a win.... with the cold air aftermarket filter, you are trading volume for heat... yes its flowing more air, but its mostly hot air... im going to see what I can figure out and will let u know if I figure out something,, @@Underdogbuilds

[@LilB901]

How does turning the MDS off work without changing the lifters, cam and blocking off the 4 MDS sensors?

[@Underdogbuilds]

I’m not 100% sure and don’t want to misinform you on how they particularly got this to work, but it does indeed keep all 8 cylinders active all the time!😁 the only true way to delete and disable MDS is of course non-mds lifters, cam, etc. I’ll be swapping in a comp 220/230 cam in the very near future along with the plugs for MDS and non-MDS lifters though, sometimes people have trouble getting the tuners to actually disable MDS. Sometimes it’s due to an update and sometimes it’s due to the tuner not wanting to cooperate.

[@LilB901]

@@Underdogbuilds Ok cool. I’ll be installing my Non-MDS lifters & cam when my new cylinder heads arrive. I have the Diablo-Sport Predator 2 tuner so I’ll see how that works. Appreciate it! Nice build too!

[@dontibbitts9490]

The MDS lifters have oil gallies that cause the lifters to collapse. Turning off MDS will stop that from happening during idle or light cruising modes. Not sure the benefits of turning it off. With a total MDS delete. The non MDS lifters and camshaft are more durable and by removing the MDS solenoids better oil flow.

[@newgliches2021]

Can you tune my fans with your tuner?

[@Underdogbuilds]

Sadly not, the tuners are locked to one vehicle unless you pay for another vehicle

[@lyricistdestroyerqueensbor8782]

I wish i was mechanic smart. It would save me money.

[@Underdogbuilds]

If you’re confident, give it a try! Many of the things I’ve done had to be learned along the way, it’s most definitely rewarding when it’s all said and done 🙂 I know tasks seem daunting, but starting off with smaller things and working your way up is a great way to teach yourself! I will admit, if something goes sideways, I’ll take it to a professional before trying something that I’m not confident in doing at all. (Such as extracting a broken bolt/stud from a recessed hole, that’s not my cup of tea and I would hate to destroy a perfectly good block that costs $1,300+) Thank you for taking the time to watch my video 🙏😁

[@artart7943]

no oil catch can?

[@Underdogbuilds]

Not currently, the one I had was removed due to it making the car unhappy sometimes. A new catch can is coming with the rest of the components for the new set-up

[@snitchk063]

so set all 4 fans to 165 if i have the 180 ?

[@Underdogbuilds]

Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.

[@DaOnlyJAE]

post more bro love the vids

[@Underdogbuilds]

I’m most definitely getting on a real schedule for content and should be posting way more consistently! I’m gunning for a video a week from today forward😄🕺🏼 I really appreciate you man! Definitely a lot more shenanigans and modifications to come! The channel and the build are going to be focused on and changing quite a bit! It’s grind time! ⏰🤞🏼🚀

[@mattkopytek9103]

my man can you link me the thermostat and the tuner, my shit be burning up like crazy and i needa change that

[@Underdogbuilds]

I can definitely do that, I’ll put them in the description🤞🏼

[@mattkopytek9103]

@@Underdogbuilds thanks man

[@Underdogbuilds]

@@mattkopytek9103 not a problem brother🤞🏼

[@Jackson6four]

Will you be posting a review on the 180° thermostat? Just curious. I’m assuming next season If so.

[@Sebbasgocrazy]

How the car still doing with the 180 thermostat?

[@clos3228]

love the video, my 300 runs at about 203 but can go up to about 218 in idle with ac on but it drops as i drive. what brand did you get the thermostat? and i have the tuner just couldn’t see exactly what you changed on the fans ?

[@mnjfmj9071]

Where can i get my fans adjusted with out a tuner?

[@Steebve]

The carefulspongebob 💀 imagine if you used the other audio with the "shut up patrick shut the fuck up" xD

[@Underdogbuilds]

Mannnnn😂😭 I forgot about that one! I for sure would have thrown it in or mixed them together in some sort of way! That would’ve been great😆✊🏻

[@Steebve]

😆💀

[@christianwilliams1894]

I have a 07 hemi 300c and mines sits around 206 to 212. How can I get mines to sit around 180 mark?

[@randy1ization]

ehy do u think these cars comes with a 210f stat? seems high

[@Underdogbuilds]

These cars come with a 203° thermostat stock to combat carbon build up. This has them running between 195° and 210°+ just to prevent that carbon build up. It does help to drop to a 160°, 170°, 180°, or 190° for performance oriented applications but not for daily drivers. It can cause some issues daily driving, sitting in traffic, etc. with that much coolant flowing 24/7. So, with most grabbing the 5.7L in a daily driver/tow rig, they dropped the 203° in to please the average consumer. For people who want to improve lap times at the track, 1/4 mile and 1/8th mile times at the strip, and overall performance, companies like HHP provide these aftermarket parts for us to improve for what we need specifically. Of course it doesn’t add more power but it surely does allow you to use the power that’s there more efficiently rather than being heat soaked 🙂 so overall, it was just best for the average consumer as they most likely will be daily driving their HEMI.

[@anecdotalstraw5]

Did u bleed the air out the system or did u just run it like that I’m curious my temps on my 13 hemi running 208-210 213 at most and wanna run the 180 thermostat and what Diablo tuner did u use

[@Underdogbuilds]

I did end up bleeding the air out of the system but for some reason couldn’t find the clips sadly! The forbidden bolt at the top of your water pump does tend to strip/round out so be very cautious! Mine started to give me a bit of trouble so I hit it with map gas for a good 30 seconds, grabbed a hex key, a little piece of tubing to use as a breaker bar, and she came off with no issues! I then cracked the reservoir cap until coolant flowed out of the bleeder consistently, once I saw a nice stream I capped both ends, then filled the coolant back up. I did have to fill it back to the max line another 2-3 times as the coolant fully ran through the system over the next couple of days & drives. If you’ll be daily driving the car pretty consistently I would recommend something like a 190° thermostat because the 180° thermostats can fail with heavy daily driving and also cause some other issues for you. I use a diablosport intune i3 platinum that I got from holleys website, i don’t remember the exact difference between the platinum and non platinum edition of the tuners though. I hope I answered your question(s) pretty thoroughly man😄✊🏻 I do want to mention that these HEMIs do tend to run between 195° and 215°-ish degrees with no issues, as it’s normal and designed to operate as such but upgrading the thermostat definitely helps!

[@jorgealvarez12]

How do I get a tune like yours

[@Underdogbuilds]

Holley.com has the Diablo intune i3 platinum I use 🙂

[@angelcruz7919]

What was the fan settings?

[@300trxy]

where’d you get the tuner at ?

[@Underdogbuilds]

Holley performance/Diablo sport (Holley either acquired or has always owned Diablo so you can grab it directly from Holley) After further research I found this: “On December 8, 2014, Holley acquired DiabloSport Inc. On September 22, 2015, Holley acquired MSD Group, which includes brands MSD, Mr.” So the old diablosport.com web address directly links to Holley.com😄👍🏼

[@brianmeza1659]

Did you use a thermostat gasket?

[@SantiagoBeltran-v3j]

Do You Need To Tune It?

[@Underdogbuilds]

Yes, if you don’t adjust the fan settings the thermostat will open at 180° but the fans would still kick on around 190-200°. It doesn’t seem too detrimental but your motor would see temps of around 195°-210° rendering the 180° ineffective

[@jojogragra]

I have a 180* thermostat my car temp run to 203 to 215 temp that’s weird asf

[@Underdogbuilds]

If you haven’t changed your fan settings that happens, if you did change fan temp settings then your thermostat is sticking. I just had one fail on me. In the vlog I’m about to upload it started running around 203-215°, then it completely failed and I saw over 220°. I think I hit 226°

[@dontibbitts9490]

I don't exactly see the benefit to this? Don't you want your engine to get up to operating temp as fast as possible on start up?

[@Underdogbuilds]

This doesn’t effect how quickly the vehicle reaches operating temp - 180° (except in the cold months), this opens the thermostat at 180° rather than 203°, which keeps the car around 185°. These HEMIs are designed with the 203° to combat carbon build up, that’s all. they hinder performance and if your car is being built, isn’t daily driven, is stored throughout the winter, and will be getting modified more and more, It will help ETs at the track. It combats heat soak allowing you to make all of the power you’re supposed to rather than being heat soaked and down on power. Upgrading your thermostat to a higher performing, lower temp variant is not recommended if you daily drive the vehicle.

[@0-0guy]

Nice! that thermostat needed to go.

[@Underdogbuilds]

Most definitely!

[@jayygotit_1]

Yeh my 180 just failed 2 days ago and yes I daily my rt with no tune plus I have been dogging it

[@jarridtaylor7778]

Subbed

[@Underdogbuilds]

Thank you man, I appreciate you! I’m redoing 2-3 videos that are on the channel to have the best delivery of and most accurate information possible and I have quite a few new video that are going to be dropping. We’ve got a couple vlogs in editing, an unboxing/sit down, and some more informational videos lined up! The next informational video (being edited currently) is speaking in the limitations of 5.7L HEMI powered vehicles! (The limitations of the rotating assembly, fuel system, and main components of the drive train will all be spoken about. Including the transmission, driveshaft, differential, and axles)

[@jarridtaylor7778]

@@Underdogbuilds I’m here for it man I have a 2011 R/T Max in redline pearl red with the peanut butter interior. 93 tune TCM/PCM, intake, exhaust, pedal commander for shits and giggles turned up to the max lol so it’s a fun car. I’ll be around enjoying your content man. Keep it up!!

[@todmandenny6672]

U need a radiator flush bro. If ur old thermostat is look n like that it means inside is dirty !!!!!!!

[@Underdogbuilds]

I had just replaced the radiator, the stock thermostat was put back in for a short period until I got a new daily. (Didn’t want to daily the 180°) The inside was dirty beforehand, during this video it had recently been freshened up. I’ll be doing another radiator flush when the vehicle comes out of storage though🤞🏼 I should have replaced the t-stat when replacing the radiator for sure

[@lukemei5ter]

I get 212-222 sometimes. Im constantlt running my heater on high full blast with windows down. 😂

[@davidleslie949]

Hopefully you went and purchased a torque wrench after that scare because the torque spec for the two bolts holding the thermostat housing down he's only 9 foot pounds and if you are that skilled to know exactly what 9 foot pounds feels like going into an aluminum housing with coolant between the thread SERVICES of the bolts and the housing. Then I'm impressed. You got lucky that was water underneath your car from the air-conditioning. You had running when your compressor gets really cold from the AC running will cause condensation and once you're stopped the water from the condensation will create a misleading pool of a Foreign substance. if it's humid enough, the compressor will freeze or appear frozen on the outside until the vehicle is turned off again the AC is turned off. Keep on MODDIN! Cheers. If your vehicle does have a clutch fan, you can remove that to free up about 20 ponies. There's no need to install a V6 fan either. The existing electric fan that's remaining is more than adequate enough to cool the engine. if you have shutters, you can toss them too. Just remember to rig up something to attach the actuator to, and then limit the distance, the actuator arm can travel as to not throw a fault code.

[@bobbyjohnson1689]

Stick to oem unless your racing if your daily driving that hemi be prepared for some stuff you can get away with it here in Florida cause it’s hot asf but once it gets cold switch it back

[@Underdogbuilds]

100%. This vehicle is not a daily and is put up until spring currently. You can drive in fairly cool temps though. I did the last oil change fairly recently and it was 38°. The vehicle was perfect. Never dropped back below operating temp 😄 I wouldn’t drive it in any weather cooler than that though. Many people who daily drive their hemi will daily the 203° t-stat and pop in the 180° for track days

[@DWright-i5c]

Next time put u a new coolant reservoir cap on their too

[@billkoranda45]

180 on a hemi does matter when saving miles per gallon plus runs good

[@ItachiUchiha_214]

I installed 180 thermostat on my challenger rt and it threw up a p0128 code any advice?

[@Underdogbuilds]

It could definitely be a number of things, but eliminating the easiest possibilities first is best. What was the weather like when she threw the code? I’ve had a couple buddies driving in colder weather (not snowing, but in the 30s) that have had this code thrown. I had a similar or the same code when my thermostat became stuck open as well. When you check the temperature read out does it stay cold? My 300 wasn’t hitting operating temp and I had to replace the t-stat. It could be low coolant, air in the coolant system (pulling the bleeder on the front of the water pump would fix that), or the thermostat could be stuck shut. There’s also the possibility of a couple other things. A faulty coolant temperature sensor, A faulty intake air temperature sensor, or A stuck-on cooling fan could also cause the code.