18th C. Frock Coat part 1: Pockets and Pocket Flaps

[@meichist4r]

Glad to see this, i haven't seen any helpful instruction as a teenager (14), i hope i could make it this october

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Best of luck!

[@Pathfinder2]

I make contemporary clothing with a machine. But I learned so much watching this. The smile pockets and the eased pocket bag fascinates me. Thank you.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Thanks for stopping in and leaving a comment

[@RickWolfff]

Boy, I wish I had these videos last year! There might still be another suit in my future.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

you never know when that bit of wool will follow you home.

[@judithwallace3856]

Great instructions!

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Glad it was helpful!

[@dwarden7829]

Wish I had seen this before I attempted my Frock a couple years ago. Lol..Your pockets instruction, alone, would've helped wonders.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

so sorry you had trouble with them.

[@ceddyspaghetti7905]

That already looks amazing to me 🥰

[@kellyarlenegrant]

don't mind the mess in my studio, I'm slowly recovering from last week's deadline.

[@janethenry1405]

I LOVE your videos!! You make it look so easy. I plan to make a frock coat one day and will be following your instructions! Kelly, you are the BEST! Thank you for sharing your talent and skill!

[@kellyarlenegrant]

thank you so much for the continued support!

[@janethenry1405]

@@kellyarlenegrant You are so very welcome!!

[@luckylibbet1]

What a joy to watch. I stumbled across this on my journey to make menswear style trousers for myself, and the back welt/jetted pocket....mine are getting better, but I keep searching for better ways. This is not quite it, but gave me ideas. And your workmanship is exquisite. A true inspiration.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

thank you so much for your comment. In making up trousers, the green tailoring book "Classic Tailoring Techniques" is a fabulous resource. Do each thing step-by-step for ease of construction and understanding.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

thank you so much for your comment. In making up trousers, the green tailoring book "Classic Tailoring Techniques" is a fabulous resource. Do each thing step-by-step for ease of construction and understanding.

[@katiecakes10000]

Fantastic! It's awesome to be able to follow along.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

I'm glad you are enjoying them!

[@dgbclub7]

Brillian, just Brilliant; I learned many new techniques and learned why the techniques my Grandmother taught me we necessary. I have wanted to make a frock coat for years and now believe I am up to the project. I appreciate your style of helpful and informative educating without making me feel stupid (these projects are not for the novice, yet those perhaps new to sewing are considered as well). The cameraman is doing a terrific job too. If you like I will send photos of my garments as I go along...smiles and thank you.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Thank you so much for your comments. If you want to follow my Facebook page, the chat feature is great for sending photos and we can talk you through any problems that might happen.

[@Lavender_Louis]

How would you go about sewing in the pockets with a fraying fashion fabric?

[@kellyarlenegrant]

I might use a machine, and run a stitching line in a fine stitch length about 3mm outside the cutting line of the smile. Then clip to, but not through the points at either side, and turn your edges under. Then proceed to stitch the pocket bag in place. So stitch your smile first, then cut the smile inside the stitching line, fold edges under, and proceed with pocket.

[@Lavender_Louis]

@@kellyarlenegrant I see! Thank you so much for your videos and this answer!

[@artbyduck-darlenegillet1935]

I have a question: How do you sharpen your shears? They always seem so sharp. What do you use (tool) to sharpen them, and how often. Also, I inherited several pairs of shears and scissors and they all need care. Is there anything that I can do myself, or do I need to take them to a professional. I have heard horror stories from people who took the shears/scissors to professional sharpers, and I would rather to not have to deal with that. Maybe you can do a video on maintaining you cutters. Thank you. I really like this video.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Hey there Duck! I have mine professionally sharpened about once a year...well, before covid I did. I also have shears for fabrics, another pair just for wool, and if I need to cut silk I go buy a new pair of shears and then they usually get moved on to paper scizzors shortly after. I don't use my good shears on anything poly...those get cheap craft scizzors and trashed after. I'm not sure who is sharpening in the Maritimes these days, so I'm not sure who to send you to. These scizzors I am using in this video need a good going over, so I will have to find someone eventually. They were far too expensive to buy again.

[@artbyduck-darlenegillet1935]

@@kellyarlenegrant Thank you Kelly, I didn't realize that you switched scissors in and out as often as you do. I find that fascinating. I completely understand why you would switch them out for the silk but I didn't realize that you would for poly. I will take a picture of my scissors when I get them unpacked, so you can see what I have and what kind of condition they are in .

[@piccalillipit9211]

*IVE JUST DRAFTED* a pattern for a victorian frock coat and Im really hoping there are enough similarities for me to get the construction sequence...

[@kellyarlenegrant]

you might want to grab a modern tailoring book to help you in this process too. Tailoring gets far more in-depth as the Victorian age progresses.

[@piccalillipit9211]

@@kellyarlenegrant - OH Im ok at making lounge suits, Chesterfield coats etc. Its the order the body panels and the skirt are constructed in that I am interested in... I've not made anything with a top half and a bottom half in one garment before. Do you make a left and a right and sew them together??? OR do you make a top and a bottom and sew them together??? This is my dilemma...

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Well, it's not as simple as that...I build the fronts, from the wool inwards, shaping the garment with canvases. Then I line each piece. Tailoring is a huge thing. Have a quick look at a tailoring book such as the green "Classic Tailoring Techniques"

[@piccalillipit9211]

@@kellyarlenegrant - HI - just letting you know, Ive finished it. I constructed the entire coat including canvas, except the lining and facings, tried for fitting and made adjustments. Split at the centre back seam and the shoulder seams, removed sleeves. applied the lining to the facings and then to the coat. Stitched the lining to the coat flat [no quilted padded lining on this as its a frock overcoat not a frock coat] closed up the shoulder seams, fitted the sleeves, closed the centre back seam and then sewed the centre back lining panel then fitted the sleeve linings... Looking at many pictures of extant Victorian frock coats this seems to be the way they did it, its quite easy and the only way I can see to get the quilted padded linings incorrectly.

[@001crisper]

Are there no linen stays to help support the pockets?

[@kellyarlenegrant]

I usually support the pocket opening with canvases.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Ah! This coat I canvassed more of the body, so supported the pockets to the canvases once I laid them in.

[@001crisper]

@@kellyarlenegrant I see, thank you. In the Edwardian coats I've made the canvases are much smaller only going through half of the frons so additional stays for the pockets are needed, often extending from the side or down from the armscye.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

Parker, that's the case with a lot of 18thC coats as well. Especially later in the century. I think cloth will always tell you how structured it wants to be...also the human wearing it. No two coats are ever exactly the same

[@rickschuman2926]

It sounds like sleet against the window. (Of course just at the time I was making my comment, you mentioned the awful weather you were having. :-), it is possible I am actually learning a thing or two from this. Thanks.

[@kellyarlenegrant]

We did have a bit of bad weather last month. I'm glad you are enjoying the series!