1940 Harley Davidson UH restoration Part: 9 Setting the valves, timing distributor and more

[@SlickHeadCustomCycles]

Oh by the way, the reason i find your channel so informative and filmed really well, is not only do i own a 1940 UL Flathead like you, i also own a 1968 Triumph 650 but in chopper form. So obviously i love the builds your involved in

[@jessesvintagegarage765]

Well we both have some sweet bikes, glad you really enjoy our stuff thanks for the great comments

[@SlickHeadCustomCycles]

Hey i own a 1940 UL Flathead himself, after watching your video, wich was great by the way, i was curious why your not running the Linkert M51 carb? I apologize if i missed why your not, in a previous video

[@jessesvintagegarage765]

There is no particular reason why I am not running the M51L Linkert, I just wanted to put the bendix on the bendix is a 36mm which is pretty equivalent to the 1-1/8th inch M51L, glad you enjoy my stuff

[@SlickHeadCustomCycles]

Can’t wait till you hit a thousand subscribers, you deserve to earn a little money for your vids. Im still struggling with a lonely 14 subscribers

[@jessesvintagegarage765]

Well you have a nice 40 UL mine is black, seems like your stuff is right up my alley I will make sure I subscribe, thanks again for your great comments,

[@johnleshko1668]

The point gap needs to be set before timing is set

[@jessesvintagegarage765]

Thanks for noticing that, some how we missed showing the point gap we do try to be detailed as much as possible and sometimes we miss things, Well we know we set the gap because we had to clean, bul I must have missed putting that clip in, well it is pointless to set the timing without having the correct point gap first because later if the point gap is changed either by opening or closing up a little the timing is off and will need to be retimed, The correct point gap for all harley motors with a distributor is .018" - .022" we always set ours at .020" right in the middle of the range. Thanks again