1960's Athearn GP-7 getting a 1980's Motor

Hauntober Halloween Specials for 2022. Reviving the Athearn trucks, frame, and installing motor that don't fit.
#classicmodeltrains
#athearn
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@classicmodeltrains
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[@dougwatchesiowastate]

Reminds me of my Athearn GP-7’s from the mid to late 80’s, they were my favorite engines.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Good simple runners for sure

[@RayBoebel]

I've been told that this hobby will make you lose your head.....just never thought it would happen Ron! You have WAY to much fun sir....and I love it!!! Keep up the great work!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Good evening Ray! Just playing around with the green screen. I like Halloween the most out of all the holidays, so I guess I'm just decorating the channel for a bit ;-)

[@w.rustylane5650]

Athearn are my favorite engines. They are very well designed. Cheers from eastern TN

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree with you!!

[@robertpetit57]

These trucks were first used on the new production GP-38-2's. Athearn's are great, a little TLC from time to time and they will run FOREVER! I have been buying them since 1967, and still have my first "SW-1500" from back then!

[@classicmodeltrains]

They are like tanks. A Hi-f SW-1500? That one is on my bucket list!

[@PapaMav]

Best solution for cleaning those wheels, I came across form another KZbinr: disassemble the wheelsets. Chuck a wheel in a drill and put some Mothers Mag and Aluminum wheel polish on a dry sponge. Fire up the drill while you hold the sponge against the wheel and watch the magic. You can use either a dry sponge or a small piece of balsa wood to clean the policy off. I also like using he same grease you use. You and I are close to the same age brother.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I found out in a recent video that if you polish the wheel surface you loose tractive effort. What you mention in your comment is a fast way to shine em up but it will have side effects :-) I'm turning 56 this year I guess. Just had to do the math.

[@regisbraga3833]

Hi Ron! It’s nice to see you working on an Athearn again. You know I love them. It’s really impressive to see this GP7 working at 2.5V/0,15A: you have a good piece of work at your hands (due to your work, of course!) Thanks for giving us another great video!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Regis! Thanks for your kind words once again!!! :-)

[@jackseamon7064]

A little less than too much is the right amount. If only teachers could speak so boldly! 🍺

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Jack!

[@waltersobchek2465]

This dude is rad!! 👍👍🤙

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@benzacct1]

I love that the engine you featured has no wires! Just brilliant. Much less confusing for new-bys like me. I was just working on one when I watched this. 👏👍

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! Them old Blue Boxes were nice and straight forward!

[@johnkrivak216]

Quite a bit of the noise seems to come from the worm gear interface. If you have any up and down slop in the square bushings (at the worm shaft) after snapping the truck retainer housing on, you can eliminate it by adding a little shim in the area just above the bushings. I used two layers of electrical tape cut to fit, this eliminated about 80 % of the noise.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like some great information there! Thanks for sharing :-)

[@NYandAtlantic]

You make that look easy

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks! Get a few under your belt and it's all pretty straight forward :-)

[@markwilliams2620]

You need the white ATH82041 motor mounts for blue box loco's. The black are for the Genesis line.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for this good information. A few other Fellers told me they experienced the same dilemma I did with this. Now come to find out wrong motor mounts. Well I'll know better next time now because of you!!

[@markwilliams2620]

@@classicmodeltrains You're welcome! Ask me how I know 🤨. The old ones do seem to dry out and crack, so I learned to stock up.

[@Iconoclasher]

I see you're pretty keen on using that electric grease. It's amazing stuff. I use it everywhere. Maybe you're already doing it but I'd suggest putting it on the two little contact tabs under the motor where it contacts the frame. Also some on the top contact strip where it contacts the truck over arm.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I don't use it there.....but I should!!

[@SleeperBBQ]

TY

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@raymondbuterbaugh3117]

Upgrade from the 90's. Take wire from top of motor to the trucks. Throw the (steel) metal strip away.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! Ive seen that before.

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

Same here. it's better with soldering a wire to the top contact for the power trucks and to the bottom contact for the chassis by drilling and tapping a 2/56 hole for the bottom contact using a 2/56 screw to fasten down the bottom contact wire

[@amyreynolds3619]

I built my own hand rails for my Gp 38.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Very cool!!

[@markryan1754]

Wonderful work!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Many thanks!

[@GarrettTaylorLeedy]

That looks really awesome man keep up the good work and I really like your videos very much take care and have a wonderful day and a wonderful night you always do really good work on these older locomotives

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks, you too!

[@williamsantangelo]

Thanks Ron grand show a little scary at first! Thank You

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@caboosech]

The upgrade that was done was in the mid to late '80s especially with the parents the baron blocks on the trucks there made the locomotor run a lot smoother and I've got both early '80s and then the newer version to my collection and

[@classicmodeltrains]

Greetings Caboose, The voice to text did not work very well and I cannot figure out what is in your comment. Any chance you could give it another try?

[@caboosech]

@@classicmodeltrains i have a small fleet of those gp7 the gear boxs where up graded in the mid 1980's

[@DUBMANS]

I have the exact same geep somewhere.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Right on!

[@MygrandpasTrain]

That restoration looks familiar! I think I just did an Athearn restoration not too long ago. The trucks look identical to mine except mine are the SD trucks. Also that's likely not the original motor.. This chassis was designed for a motor with no flywheels. I have an older Athearn with a chassis like that and I compared it to a newer one. The newer ones are cast with the space for the flywheel. The new motor mounts are part of the noise problem, the originals were probably a softer rubber material the new ones are solid plastic which transfers way more noise. I need to get me a greenscreen! Then I can put myself on my layout or in the cab!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your info Tim! The Green screen is a lot of fun. Ive been trying to put myself in the layout, but I need to fiddle with the lighting more. It always looks un-natural

[@markfrench8892]

Looks like the Headless Iron Horse Man. 😆

[@classicmodeltrains]

I was going for that 1985 movie "re-animator" :-)

[@FreedomSquareGardenRailway]

Awesome job man that was awesome to experience a let me know if you want anything at the next big swap meet I’m gonna be on the lookout for anything you like I’m in Southern California I think I’m in the best place in the galaxy for this kind of stuff because of the low humidity minimal temperature change I’ve come across some pretty good deals and steals like a 500 set for 10 bucks

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Gabriel! Sound like So Cal is a great place to keep things from going bad in storage, And great prices also!! Thanks for the offer :-)

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

Wow! that really is a super great deal! for real!? i wish i was in your shoes.

[@casstelles]

About the motor mounts, the ones that you have used are the new style. The old style was white, and they just pressed in without screws. Be careful about flash in the mounting holes and the frame. Athearn is notorious for having flash on the metal and plastic. As far as the mounting holes, carefully remove the flash, but do not remove the lip totally due to the fact that both styles of mounts use it to hold down the motor. The procedure on removal of flash in the mounting holes involves a round file and minimal material removal (aka shave to fit). Also, your drive is the standard Blue Box drive, but the shell maybe from an earlier run (Yellow box era??). Many of the Yellow Box and Blue Box drives will accept the same shells from either era.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the good info!

[@irenecraggs6123]

don,t you love those old blue box athearns built like a truck i own a crap load of those things my favorite locomotives

[@classicmodeltrains]

I really enjoy them also. Good runners and pullers.

[@lynnzi3d]

Early 80’s

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks!

[@theplumber33]

Lol, Is engineering the space shuttle! I do love the athen blue Box. You had to pull All of your boy scout tricks out of the bag.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I almost needed a help line "call a friend" save to get that darn motor in :-)

[@theplumber33]

@@classicmodeltrains lol

[@amyreynolds3619]

I have restored to f7 with Southern railway bodies and one f7 a and b units in Amtrak. Plus a GP 38 in Chessie railroad.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Awesome. It's always great bringing these back to life!

[@davecashman8336]

When i was much younger, i had kitbashed a GP35 and 2 SD45s with the high short hood and had them painted in the old Southern Rwy scheme. Had also kitbashed a couple Athearn “SW1500”s into NW-2 models following an old MR article. Was always a big fan of Athearn products.

[@maltnz]

The original metal strip connection from top of the trucks to the motor is unreliable - if you are not worried about keeping the loco original, solder a wire from the trucks to the motor clip-on connector instead. Thanks for the video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the nice words. I never have any problems with the metal strap. Ive heard of guys soldering wires in.

[@keithmurrow5448]

That probably was the original motor, the same thing happened when I installed the new-style screw-in motor mounts on my Athearn Blue Box GP9s. I think the old rubbery, press-in motor mounts must hold the motor just a little higher in the frame, thus allowing the motor to sit level. I "milled" my frames the same way you did.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for that good info Keith. maybe they sunk the motor in deeper so a decoder can fit on top?

[@raymondbuterbaugh3117]

Yep all of the 7s/9s I bet will need milled

[@railsofontario3029]

Finally I’ve been looking forward to this restoration! Great job! I’ve been looking for the parts to power my dummy Conrail and it’s coming well! This engine is also from the later bluebox era like the 80’s. And was that intro a Frankenstein reference?

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you liked it. The intro was reference to the 1985 movie "re-animator"

[@markfrench8892]

More like the 70s. Most of my Athearn was purchased then and this is the way they came.

[@railsofontario3029]

@@markfrench8892 ok thanks I didn’t know what time they exactly started making them like this only the time they were fully in production.

[@jebbohanan2626]

Milling out a bit of the frame often comes when repowering a locomotive. Wait until you try rewinding the commutator. You’ll be amazed at the torque or speed you can obtain. Also, remagnetizing the motor helps tremendously. You can also roll a small piece of 2000grit sand paper in to a tube and spin it through the gears. It doesn’t take much. But, you can make those locomotive trucks freewheeling like a HotWheels car! lol

[@railsofontario3029]

@@jebbohanan2626 Thanks! That helps a lot!

[@ArcadiaJunctionModelTrains]

I got two of these and I tell you I am suspicious about the logos and letting. It that an actual Milwaukee Road logo on the side and the text The Milwaukee Road looks like the Apple Mac old tru-type screen font from the 1980s!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Greetings Arcadia, I googled this and many pictures of the same logo and font showed up. Some other pictures where the logo under the cab was red. I guess different production runs.

[@HotRodRodney25]

🤣😂🤣😂 Ron 😆

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@plunkervillerr1529]

It`s the bees knees.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks!

[@keepamericayisraelgreat5708]

Question: Do you always have to put a circuit on the wire before installing a light on the train? YES or NO ... when looking into the train if there were a light could you replace it or replace it and add a circuit ?.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm sorry but I dont exactly know what your asking.

[@keepamericayisraelgreat5708]

Found out about the light sorry for the inconvenience @@classicmodeltrains

[@johnramirez5996]

I get rid of bar. I solder wire in. Bar is a bad power supply. What I do as part of upgrade.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Ive never had any problems with the conductive bar.

[@robertpetit57]

YUP, this looks like someones attempt at an "Upgrade". this probably had the old JET600 motor and the mid 1960's metal sideframe trucks. Next time, ditch the top metal strip and use a piece of flexible wire for the power pickup. Truck orientation makes a difference on straight DC operation!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! I never cared for the solder in wire. Metal strips have never let me down. BUT.....if it ever does I will be soldering :-)

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

LOL, I watched part II first, both good (no great) videos.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@normancoreyBuildingTrains]

Your videos are funny as sh.t

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Norman, I'm trying to stand out from the crowd. :-)

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

That's an late 1980's Athearn GP7 had it really been made in the 1960's the truck side frames would have been made from metal not plastic.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the info

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

@@classicmodeltrains No sweat, And as always, Thank you very much for answering my comments.

[@FostoriaOhiomodelrailroadclub]

I cheat I use a wire wheel on a drummer To clean the wheels

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup. That works pretty good to :-)

[@bradwb6192]

Oh, dear, you mean I gotta click again? Alrighty then...

[@classicmodeltrains]

It's a two-fer Sunday afternoon :-)