1961 20 Ft Lyman Runabout Paint Stripping How To 3 25 2023

[@kevinhall2266]

I concur. I have the sandvic scrapers per your recommend. An Amazing must have tool. I’ve also had great results removing varnish with them.

[@snakemtboatworks]

Thanks for joining my corner on this one, Kevin. I must say, there are expensive to buy, but oh, so inexpensive to own and use after you've done so for years. We also use them for varnish, and before we reach for the stainless scouring pads for bleeding stain remnants out of the wood.

[@mickmandela6995]

Yeah I use too use the aircraft stripper that stuff worked real well, the other thing about hulls is once you strip them, you should take an penatrating epoxy and seal the wood then you can prime and paint

[@netsildnaputuhs]

I am 'restoring' (it really needs little work) a 1960 Lyman inboard and all your videos are extremely helpful. I will be stripping paint as soon as my workspace is ready. Last year I when I got it I noticed it leaked a good amount between the keel at the garboard seam on both sides on the front 3-4ft bottom of the boat. It seems from given service records the previous boat shops solution was scrape and 5200 the seam each year, I did the same but with 4200 as a temp fix and it didn't take on or leak for the rest of the season. Is there a more proper fix for this, should I try a bead of the totalboat SEAL? The wood is in good shape all around the seam, the seam is maybe 1/8" wide.

[@snakemtboatworks]

My concern, of course, is that years of such "repair" will likely lead to rot, and rot up there is very difficult to address as it requires emptying and flipping the hull for starters. 5200 is just about the worst product imaginable for "caulking" these seams. It quickly cures hard and brittle in this sort of application, and likely begins releasing from those seams. SEAL is a better prophylactic, but, as you likely already know but do not want to admit, your bottom needs proper repair,

[@mikeerstad3705]

We all sure miss the "Real Stripper" from a few years back...that stuff worked right away.....I think I have 3/4 of a gallon left, an no Michael, you can't have it 🙂

[@snakemtboatworks]

Mike, Circa 1950 Heavy Bodied Paint and Varnish Stripper is still manufactured and available from Swing Paints Ltd. in Montreal, Quebec, CA, as well as from retail paint stores throughout Canada. www.google.com/search?gs_ssp=eJzj4tZP1zcsM04vyjLPMWC0UjWoMElOtjRMNE9JMjIyNTNMtrQyqEg2NkhLTk01TTVOtkw0Tkr0Eikuz8xLVyhIzMwrKVbIyczNLElNAQAzXRdp&q=swing+paints+limited&rlz=1C1AVFC_enUS833US833&oq=swing+paint&aqs=chrome.8.0i512j69i57j0i512l5j46i512j46i175i199i512j0i512.16143j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Whether or not it can be purchased there and brought across the border, I do not know and will not test.

[@michaeldob2153]

@@snakemtboatworks Swing Paints ships to US too. So you can buy there products with no problems.

[@snakemtboatworks]

@@michaeldob2153 Yep. And we have used gallons of it, but the industrial stripper we are certified to use is manufactured in the US, is packaged in 5-gallon tubes. We prefer it to Circa 1850, both in terms of its functionality and also its much lower cost on a per-gallon basis.

[@snakemtboatworks]

Oh, and you must use the possessive case her: THEIR not there. Just sayin’

[@brianhof7599]

I love your videos, but you should be wearing gloves when you’re working with that chemical stripper.

[@snakemtboatworks]

YUP! Thanks Mom.......... In fact I do so WHEN I AM HANDLING THE STRIPPER. But not when handling video cameras and/or navigating through a clip. If you pay attention, you just might realize that only once did my fingers even get close to the surface, and that was a blue-colored area where I had already scraped the stripper off. I also normally wear a respirator, but not when I am trying to do a monologue.