1966-1970 Dodge/Plymouth B-body full floor, inner rockers, torsion support Charger resto Episode 4

[@johnnyfeher3412]

Rust Bucket Restro's swears by those AMD sheet metal parts too! He had to wait a good time for his to be delivered but he's up and running now. Another in-depth informative video.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you, yes I feel for what most of what these cars will become AMD if available is the best option.

[@michaelsidhu4079]

Hats off to you for showing the mistake you made of forgetting to install the seat brackets instead of glossing over it or editing it out. Great idea to use it as a teaching opportunity and showing how to correct the issue. 😎

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot appreciate you watching the video

[@jamesjohnson4093]

This channel has become my favorite to watch, so informative and your fabrication skills and attention to detail are second to none. Can't wait for more videos!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot I really appreciate it!

[@ty3095]

Thanks for another great video. Always very informative. Keep the videos coming thanks👍👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks appreciate the support

[@CAROLDDISCOVER-2025]

Great detail 👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@michaeladamo1188]

You do beautiful work! Those goodmark panels are making your job so much harder

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you, keeping me on my toes everything can't go in too easy.

[@stlbrian33]

I’m doing a 69 Dodge coronet and this was very helpful 👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thats really great to hear good luck on your build.

[@lr7633]

you are the heavyweight champion of metal work!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much

[@simoHoss]

I like the way you do the metal work.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@michaelgrogan3224]

Yeh Rick, my Bee had see thru front fllor pans but I used the 2 halves because I didn't want to screw up the 4 sp pocket and where it was located on the orginal floor. Had it been an auto, I'd been willing to try the 1 pc pan. I had trunk floor and ext as well. I was lucky enough to cut patch panels for the couple of spots on the inner and outer wheel houses while the quarter skins were off.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I understand exactly what you mean every time I get a car that someone wants to convert to a manual I worry about exactly that. There is nothing wrong with patching them for sure.

[@teamgraperacing]

So cool to watch this car coming along. Nice to see you're honest as well, with the braces. Can't wait for more!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@hamdiklcarslan4435]

always nice work thanks for the info

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome, Thanks for watching!

[@toddhendley67]

I always enjoy your videos, especially anything Mopar

[@carthageclassiccars]

Todd thank you very much!

[@devilsmokes7780]

seeing a classic charger come back to life fills me with so much joy . you sir are a legend . you gained a subscriber ! . keep it up . love to see it . 🤘

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot I appreciate it!

[@UncleDonut66]

Amazing work! These videos will be extremely helpful when I tackle my car.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you and great to hear good luck with your build!

[@brianendlich2218]

great video. thanks for posting. i'm gathering AMD metal for my 70 cuda. it's good to know that it's worth the extra $$ for the AMD stuff.

[@carthageclassiccars]

You're welcome. If you do get stuck on one or two smaller parts don't let it hold you up finishing the dream project. As just like this floor all parts can usually be adapted to look great but yes if its not that long of a wait AMD is probably the way to go for your build, good luck with it!

[@jeromebanks5131]

Just excellence at it's finest

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@gabrielantoniomartin7995]

Excelente trabajo amigo Felicitaciones 👌 Saludos desde Argentina

[@carthageclassiccars]

thank you!

[@toddhendley67]

Thanks!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Great video another masterpiece. Thanks again car is coming along nice. You answered one of my questions I am planning to replace some pans soon and was wondering whether good mark was the way to go and now I see it may not be. I know some of these parts are older but I doubt the moulds really changed. Any tips for treating inner fenders if you arnt removing the outer skin? Like areas you cannot get to and sand?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot I saw you posted a video the other day Ill have check it out. With your question on the inner structure if you can't access it I would do the best you can hand scuffing/ sand it with sand paper or those red scotch bright pads, cleaning it with wax/grease remover and trying to get some epoxy up in that area best I could.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@Carthage Classic Cars sounds good man thank you. Picking up a car next week

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@SubdivisionAuto That's awesome congrats on the new used car and good luck with it!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@Carthage Classic Cars thanks man I'm excited to do all the cool stuff people liken yourself have done. Not going to be anything near what you do (I made sure the car is really solid so don't need to replace much beyond the floor and truck pan). But still will be good to tackle all that. Thanks for the great videos your quality and presentation goes up everytime. You did very well On this video and on camera work was excellent.

[@kennyhasselqvist2579]

Great work as always. 😊I've never used a spot welder. MIG-welded a lot. How do you determine the right settings on the spot welder?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much. The spot welder goes by thickness of material just like you would set any other welder. It has a recommended mm. There is only 6 power settings so usually for the stuff I work on I stay between 3 of the settings and that is determined if its 18 ga on 18 gauge or 18 on 16 ect

[@crayholt8276]

Great work you make it looks easy. Can you share with us what welders you're using and their opinion on there ease of use and strength of their welds. You seem to have used 2 different spot welder. Thanks so much.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I only have one spot welder with different attachments. It is a pro spot PR-2000. Honestly its probably not really worth it for the home use on building one or two cars since its really expensive and takes 60 amp breaker on 2 phase or 3 phase power source. As far as my MIG i run a Lincoln pro mig 180, 220V. Its a nice smaller welder not the best out there but does everything i need it too. Over the years i have become so use to it that I honestly don't want to change it. Hope that helps clarify a bit thanks for watching.

[@crayholt8276]

Thank you for your quick response. Your video clips are very procedural/informative/ educational and under real shop life conditions.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Really appreciate it!

[@terencemeigs4091]

Stop Saying Cleco wrong it’s driving me nuts!!! It’s not Caleco. It’s Cle-co

[@carthageclassiccars]

I'll give you a refund on your money you spent on the free video...lol That's what happens when you work alone you just make up names for stuff, at this point its been so imprinted in my brain and I got too much other stuff to focus on and worry about that is really low on my list of thing to train myself to correct.