1968 Chevelle DIY Body Work and Paint - Part 4

[@julios1968]

Good Job Matt,it's coming along nicely 👌

[@NMTRUCKER]

Nice thorough job. I have been working on my ‘69 Chevelle SS this summer. The last job was installing a new Edelbrock AVS-2 carburetor (650 CFM) and tuning it (new jets and rods) for 7600’. Also replaced the original window washer pump assembly. Next major job will be replacing the original non functional dash gauge setup with a Dakota Digital HDX gauge package. Keep plugging and can’t wait to see more body work and paint.

[@Peter-hg5qd]

I like the way the car sits aggressive

[@russellmaxson9787]

MATT, I think you are doing a great job with the way your doing things there. I was an autobody and painter for over 40 years and restored and painted a lot of cars and trucks in my day,.Im retired now so I don't do it much anymore. Keep up the good work brotha.

[@MattOverDrive]

Thank you! This is my first go at it so its been a huge learning experience for me

[@SYFGARAGE]

Hey Puyallup area here, just found your channel and thought I'd check it out since a 68 Chevelle is one of my bucket list cars.

[@MattOverDrive]

Thanks! I'm just south of you near Vancouver. I'm going to watch your Autobody video's when I get a chance. I'm thinking about doing two stage paint on this.

[@SYFGARAGE]

@@MattOverDrive my videos suck lol, but if you have any questions feel free to ask.

[@MattOverDrive]

Will do, Thanks!

[@johnmilner7603]

Great project. In 73 I drove a 1968 Beaumont 327/4 bbl. The Beaumont was Pontiac’s version of the Chevelle here in Canada. So Chevy had the Chevelle and Pontiac had the Beaumont. And yes a SD396 version was available. SD stood for Sport Deluxe which was equivalent to the Chevelle SS trim level.

[@Max_HorsePower]

Very helpful video thanks for the details. I just got a 68 Chevelle and I’m going through the same process.

[@rooseveltdumas304]

You doing a Damm good job.

[@c3dk]

Nice job, keep up the good work :- )

[@martinsmartinsautobodyandr6740]

Check your radiator support bushings too if you still have a gap on the top of the fender and the door you may need to lift the front up to close the gaps

[@MattOverDrive]

Thanks for the tip. I was thinking I will have one when I drop the back of the door back down.

[@sinisterspeed5829]

Matt, both of the aftermarket fenders poked out in the center and wouldn't line up for me no matter what I did. I took the 67 to the body shop to get the front end lined up and painted. He said he got it pretty good and I asked him what he had to do. He said there was two much metal at the bottom of the fender where it is double walled at the lower bolt hole. Once he trimmed that the fender was able to go on correctly. Maybe check that area?

[@MattOverDrive]

I'll check that out when I can. I think I can also stretch out the top some more. Just a couple of shims did make a huge difference. Good to hear from you!

[@sinisterspeed5829]

Those seam sealers are really hard to get out with a normal caulking gun. You need a cam driven one then it's butter!.

[@glennparrell6679]

I had Chevelle 68 307 engine was strong the year Chevy went on strike wish I had it now it was awesome on gas i

[@glennparrell6679]

After market stuff u have to make it fit

[@martinsmartinsautobodyandr6740]

But yeah don’t get to crazy because they weren’t perfect new