1968 Triumph TR250, Converting Stock Zenith Stromberg to Triple Weber DCOE 40-2 Carburetors

Installing Triple Weber DCOE 40-2 Carburetors to my 1968 Triumph TR250.

[@jimconklin8040]

Hey David, I am glad to see you back doing your videos!

[@DavesTR4A]

You’re going to love the Ratco throttle cable! Thanks for mentioning my channel!!

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

I got confused by all the cables. Did the middle one come with the kit ? Was it running on the Amazon cable ?

[@cheftush]

@@johnmoruzzi7236 the locar cable comes with the kit. The Amazon cable was a cheap spare for measuring up. It will go in the boot as a spare just in case the cable breaks.

[@upland1826]

Those Webers sure sound pretty! Stephen

[@tgrf-tr250]

Glad to see another attempt, Dave. Hang in there; if you get them dialed in you'll never look back and you can join the ranks of those who urge the flock to use them. Each success makes the case stronger to the skeptical who have by and large subscribed to the sour grapes cohort. With these you'll pass the rest of them like they're backing up. Good luck!

[@cheftush]

Unfortunately, still having multiple issues with them even after installing a new 1 piece cannon manifold. I have a feeling they are in desperate need of an overhaul internally.

[@johnfremont3597]

Not likely to need " overhaul " from the looks of them. Only if they have been internally corroded which these don't appear to have. Ensure the floats are correct; you want the fuel to be 27 or 28mm below the top of the well where the emuslsion tube goes in. Then check the jets against what actually works ( clue: it's not what they left the factory with ). If the chokes are 30s, OK but practically everything else probably won't be. My first set is still performing as it did 140,000 miles later; they were built in the '60s and were never " overhauled " internally; even the bearings are original. Perseverance it key! And pays handsomely here.@@cheftush

[@cheftush]

@@johnfremont3597 I’ve got a set of 42’s going on a warmed up TR4 in a couple of weeks…I’ll play with these and see if I can graduate back to the triples 😉

[@lordleonusa]

I also fitted triple weber heatshields from A.R.E. (Alexander Racing Enterprises), they really help prevent heat from the headers heating up the Webers and Vaporizing the fuel.

[@ronthorn5900]

The Webber’s look fantastic happy tinkering!!😊😊

[@BruceBoschek]

Just got around to watching this. The Weber's sure look terrific. Hope you can get them balanced and responsive. I think I mentioned once that my XK120MC came equipped with them on a C-type head, but I finally gave up on them because of throttle response issues. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks for the video, Chef!

[@peteredwards9147]

Great idea the use of that blanket, looks a good set up

[@alanvinegar5729]

Simply super😊

[@robertharrison9248]

It would be very informative to get a dyno test before and after the install of the weber's to see if the actual difference in HP to see if you get close to the PI version from the UK. So much fiddling to get things to fit right, it makes one wonder if the manufactures actually made a test fit on a real car, especially the throttle linkage. Best of luck with the new setup.

[@johnsharonwhitaker9242]

thanks Chef. Reminds me of the story in Alf Francis's book (he was Stirling Moss's mechanic in the early years) about the Weber factory offering to install their carbs on whatever British engine they were running at the time - no charge if no substantial HP increase. There was a big increase and the bill was for the carbs only and no charge for all of the tuning. worth a google for the younger folk. John in Manitoba.

[@jimshaver898]

I always learn something new from your video's, great details and well done!

[@indyme2]

Great stuff, Tush. Keep the videos coming.

[@craigwiest772]

Whole other layer of complexity but right up your alley. Great job. They look super and sound even better.

[@graemelliott3942]

Awesome work Chef! DCOEs are automotive art! Well Done!

[@lordleonusa]

I presently have triple Weber 40DCOE carbs on my Trriumph. With Triumphtune individual stepped intakes intended for the GT6. My throttle linkage is from TWM. I'm about the change to a new Cannon one piece intake and wish to keep the nicer TWM linkage, which is nicer than the Cannon version. I am also using a Magard twin cable kit. Oh yes, my head has the wide intake ports. In my opinion the carbs will be better balance on the Cannon intake manifold because of the balance tube between each carb.

[@engineerandmachine]

Hi I love this video. I had triple DCOE Webers on my Fairlane for 15 years and nothing beats the induction sound of Webers on a straight 6. When you get those balanced that's going to be so sweet. I never used the choke circuit in all that time couple of pumps before cranking and it would start and run fine. One question I didn't see if you lockwired the venturi retaining screws. I was caught out with a lost screw allowing the venturi in one barrel to spin blocking off the fuel to that cylinder. It was hard to troubleshoot because the idle circuit runs up quite high in the RPM range in my case highway speed. Also I had those throttle linkages you removed and they were sub optimal. I'm glad you upgraded them it will save you a lot of headaches. I'm looking forward to your follow up.

[@lordleonusa]

I use Thackeray double spring washers on the bottom and the rubbers with cup washers on the top, because gasoline damages the rubber.

[@cheftush]

That’s how mine are set up as well.

[@roundtailrestoration]

Very nice. Good to see you back at it, Chef!

[@DEMOGarage]

I wonder if a coupling nut might work on that tight space intake location at least until you come up with a better solution. Love the videos.

[@barry6274]

Thanks, they look and sound great from here. Looking forward to the fine tuning.

[@kevinblume2976]

Nice work, Chef! Sounds like you're going to get a good throtle response from the Webers. For that hard to reach nut at the left end of the manifold, I've had good luck in the past using an extra socket and turning it down using my drill and the bench grinder. leaves you with thin sides and in most cases it turns out to be a one or two time use socket. Cheers

[@alanm.4298]

I'm interested to see what you do about an air filter. The inner fender on many TRs limits how deep one can be, and the DCOEs need some space to breathe properly. I forget the exact dimension. Something that might help is removing those very thick spacers (with the O-rings) between the carbs and the manifold. The OEM gasket that goes in there is quite a bit thinner. I was surprised to see how thick they are on your setup. (Moss Motors sells a Weber DCOE "soft mount" that may be OEM, or at least looks like one. It uses a non-replaceable rubber gasket and rubber isolating washers. Pierce Manifolds sells a different type that uses Thackeray washers and replaceable O-rings.) Of course, maybe those thick spacers were installed to get clearance between the carbs and the exhaust header. But perhaps with the new one piece manifold they aren't needed. (BTW, I agree 100%, the one piece manifold is a much better setup.) On TRs there can sometimes be problems with the heat from the headers so close below the carbs. There are heat shields sold that fit underneath DCOEs. Instead I opted to wrap the header (only recommended for stainless steel headers... if not stainless, ceramic coating can help instead). Finally, I am pretty sure you can reduce the idle RPMs by changing out some jets that control how much air and fuel are allowed to bypass the throttle butterflies. I would recommend first checking that the throttles on all the carbs are fully closing. You may need to add one or two return springs to the linkage to insure they fully close.

[@lordleonusa]

The sweet spot is 14.7" from the center of the bore to the lip of the intake trumpets, per Dave Vizard.

[@cheftush]

Thanks Alan, First, I’ve modified my inner fender early on in my restoration to give more clearance for that front carburetor, so I was thinking ahead there. I have some oval K&n filters that will work with the trumpets. The header is ceramic coated, so I’m helping that will help with the heat…the wing vents will help a bit here as well…yes, I’ll probably need to incorporate some sort of secondary springer for the return…I’ve already fabricated a tab for the spring so I’ll add in in a future video. Cheers, Tush

[@jamcdona]

They look great mounted up! You are a skilled and patient man, David. If there's someone that can tune 3 webers, it's you. I have friends that have played with just two of them on BMW's, and had a hell of a time. I can't recall if they had O2 sensor help, though...

[@racketman2u]

You have some sort of air/fuel gauge in your console? That's going to be real handy for tuning those carbs and save a lot of jet swapping!

[@cdoody7464]

Looks cool Tush. I,m no expert when it comes to DCOE,s but Ive been told by many weber guys that a fuel pressure regulator is essential with your setup.

[@cheftush]

Not a bad idea. I’m using the stock mechanical pump and it puts out between 2-3 lbs of pressure. If I switch to an electrical pump, I’ll definitely go with a regulator.

[@alanm.4298]

If you are getting 2 or 3 lb. of fuel pressure with the stock mechanical pump, that's good. If I recall from setting up my 40DCOEs, they should see no more than 4 psi. I used dual Facet electric pumps that were the lowest pressure versions they offered at the time and had to install a pressure regulator to further reduce it.

[@lordleonusa]

Yes, absolutely, I use a Malpassi regulator. Don't waste money on those shiny chromed things from the auto parts store, they don't work. I also use Facet Electric Pumps, red top, not the small solid state block pumps

[@lordleonusa]

@@cheftush one of the reasons that I no longer use a mechanical fuel pump is that ethanol in the fuel eats the diaphragm in the pump, thus allowing fuel to enter the engine block and water down the oil viscosity!

[@philtucker1224]

Dave, just a thought regarding the high tick over, I used to have a similar problem running side draft (45 DCOE) Webers on the four cylinder Lotus engines. I think because you are running six chokes on a road going car, the natural leakage of air running by the closed butter flies may already be more than is required for a 900 rpm tick over. For our rally race cars it wasn’t such an issue. I may be completely wrong of course. Kind regards.

[@frankmgallo]

ChefTush Where did you get the cover to work on the car to protect it and tool pouch’s. Can you please send me the website for it. Thanks She sounds great but with the Webers it’s going to drive and perform amazing. Good luck

[@frankmgallo]

What is the name of the blanket and where can I buy one. Thanks

[@cheftush]

Hi Frank. tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm

[@philtucker1224]

Hi Dave are you planning to fit an air box or leave the chokes as they are?

[@cheftush]

Hi Phil, I have individual K&n filters to fit over the trumpets.

[@remcotissink]

Cool project ! Saw Ratco has kits for an EFI conversion. Tempted to give that a try ?

[@cheftush]

There are actually a few conversions out there that look interesting. I think if I had the funds, I’d go this route…silodrome.com/jenvey-heritage-dcoe-throttle-bodies/

[@ronthorn5900]

Weber’s

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Webers

[@jefflorygray3206]

too much talking and not enough showing the work

[@DavesTR4A]

If you have never done a video you can’t understand the difficulty in positioning cameras and staging process steps. He is just a guy working by himself.