1970 CAMARO - Hood Dent Removal & Primered

[@lemoncuda]

Best example on line for using the shrinking disc to remove low spots, and on a very hard panel too! Thank you Nick!

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

You bet Carl!

[@DoubleRRestorations]

You did an amazing job on this car and made it look easy. Good thing that car found you. Nice work!

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Thanks 👍

[@DIYWHEELGUY1970]

Someone is going to have a beautiful Camaro! Love the attention to detail

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Thanks Stephen!

[@glennroy2747]

Takes time , patience, knowledge, and the willingness to do it right with pride in your work. I have not used the shrinking disc in my time doing body work ( about 40 years ) but I can see the value in one as I watch this. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Hi Glenn, Takes some time to get used to using one but shrinking disks can get you out of a bind at times. My Dad taught me how to shrink with O/A but I feel I have more control with the disk on low crown panels, especially in this case where there is a structure in behind.

[@peterplouf2836]

I really like my shrinking disc, but when you start using one, you are going to feel like Mickey Mouse with the mop-buckets in the "Sorcerer's Apprentice". They do have a learning curve that is hard to explain.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Couldn't have said it better Peter!

[@robertgembala8532]

Great channel, learning all the time , can never have to much knowledge just have to be willing to lean

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

The day one stops learning is the day they stop living. Really appreciate the kind words Robert.

[@billmiller7138]

Looks great! Especially considering those cars weren't all that straight when new!

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Thanks Bill!

[@validcore]

Seen all the camaro vids now. Would love to see how it turned out after paint.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Sorry, the car was finished and left. Thanks for watching. 👍👍

[@jasonhull5712]

Thanks for sharing the know how. I don't own the buffer/grinder and don't have a disk but anything you do to this Camaro I want to learn. I'm doing a 1970 camaro standard front clip style with all aftermarket sheet metal and very little experience in bodywork. I'm learning as I go and folks like you are what makes it possible. So thank you for taking the time to fiddle with the camera and edit it all up for us novice guys. I wish I could just plug my brain into yours and download all the bodywork knowledge... lol

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Thanks for the kind words. If you have a question, don't be a stranger. Take care. N.

[@deankay4434]

I have only seen the shrinking used but appears to come in completely flat while some have radial grooves. Also, they are to be used on a grinder that hits the 6K-8k RPM, not buffer at 2.6k. Am I close? Todays tools are (PWM) pulse-width-modulated and have a ramp up to speed feature. According to the electronics world, the tool industry is moving towards “Brushless” motors and this PWM on a printed circuit board is done now from 2021-2022! Today is June, 22, 2022. Just reading and paying attention. Enjoyed watching to understand the nuances of the shrinking disc as I have bedsides on a 1967 C10 to tackle. As long as they don’t place me in a wheel chair at 64.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Yea this big 'Wolf' from the 70's spins at around 6K... weighs a ton but love it!! I use a smooth disk so as not to mar the metal.

[@RoadsterLoverMedia]

Are you going to show the re-radius of the grill shell? Or is this the last episode for this project? Thanks again for your insightful content.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Perhaps later Rick. There are a few things that need to be addressed on the trunk lid, the grill shell(prob just a sheet metal nip and tuck... or find an original replacement) and a few other things. But before that happens the Camaro will be going home to have all the mechanicals finished before the bodywork goes any further. On another note, I couldn't see all/reply to one of your comments for the M40C's structure video. Something about 16:45? Cheers!

[@RoadsterLoverMedia]

@@iNVisionPrototypes Sometimes, comments or content 'get lost' or the read more does not appear to push open the extra content. on Windows(tm), try to zoom out. If your browser zoom gets really wierd resets the zoom to default. Just to complete the process, is the opposite of above.

[@RoadsterLoverMedia]

@@iNVisionPrototypes Here is the other comment: Structure! Thank you! :) I always wanted to see that done. You answered 1 question: 14g is used for inner structure. The other question is the bending process. At 16:45 the A pillar interior side support is flat. You start by tipping the long side flanges. At 17:01 it looks like you are lifting the long end while you are tipping the flanges on the short sides. You mentioned shrinking. it looks like you are creating the folds to be shrunk later? But at 17:04 you are slapping over the flange nearly completed with very little curve showing. Shrinking off camera? Do you have 1 template for each axis/view of the faces for each different part of the inner structure? Thanks.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

@@RoadsterLoverMedia I could see it in my bell notifications, but when I went to the dashboard and hit 'comments' which shows all unread .. notta.. Very strange. Happened before. Thanks for the tip.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

@@RoadsterLoverMedia Up to 17:04 I'm just rolling the long legs. At 17:04 the 4 radiused areas are stretched along with the length to arc the part outwards(since it will be mounted inside the cab). No need for a template for the other axis - use the buck. At 17:05 I start forming the short legs. During that process the kick shrinker is used to shrink the material within the radius. At 17:24 the slapper cleans up any waviness in the flange. When I get rolling and running back and forth, it's sometimes hard to remember to reposition the cameras for every step especially when I'm creating 2 pieces per side. Will try better in the future. Hope this helps.

[@danielbuckner2167]

I was going to ask why no water but saw you answered below. So instead since you mentioned bondo, what is your preference? I have been using rage(someties gold) and icing for most stuff as I dont like thick filler if it can be avoided. Am I wasting money on a name? Also Ive been using SPI after blasting, what is your fav? Lastly, what brand is that disc?

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

All great questions! After the metal work is done, we epoxy the vehicle with DTM, hit it with high build and block. If an area needs anything it'll get a second coat of high build. Usually that's about it. That's a Pro Shaper disk from Wray Schelin. Definitely a quality product! By the way please share our videos with your friends! I would really appreciate it.

[@danielbuckner2167]

@@iNVisionPrototypes I will. Wray is a neat guy, I stole an idea from him on radiusing opposing faces on a body hammer 90° from each other for those tighter curved surfaces.

[@TheInsaneShecklador]

You're not worried about blasting a low crown panel that large?

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Not at all. My guy specializes in aircraft. He's a true artist when it comes to blasting panels without warping surfaces.

[@TheInsaneShecklador]

@@iNVisionPrototypes Sounds like you found a good one.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

@@TheInsaneShecklador I've had to fix panels brought in by someone who didn't know what they were doing... a real mess.

[@TheInsaneShecklador]

@@iNVisionPrototypes It's been 25+ years since I was in the business but, the boss quickly stopped sending low crown panels out to be blasted. There were only 2 shops within 100 miles of us and neither of them could be trusted. Lots of stripper and DA'ing.... Back when stripper still worked.

[@vancehoffmaster1960]

I learned the shrinking disk from Wray Schelin, and he always has you quench the treated area with water immediately after shrinking. Curious as to why you do not do this? Thanks. Obviously, your results are still very good though.

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Wray is a great guy and very talented metal shaper. Quenching cools the metal more rapidly. In this case I wanted a more gentle shrink. If you don't want to introduce water, play some compressed air over the area. Works quite well too.

[@robertgembala8532]

Learn

[@iNVisionPrototypes]

Yup!