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#impalamansgarage1
In this video I go through the complete process of replacing the
oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler lines on our W126 OM617 5 cylinder
turbo diesel. Along the way we ran into a number of snags which
delayed progress but they are all documented here in the video. I also
replaced the injection pump rack damper pin (fuel injection
adjustment bolt). This really helped my engine's idle and idle-return
performance.
(Pardon my verbal gaffes in using "inches" and "mm" interchangeably)
Top 10 Tips and Notes for this video:
1) If either your oil filter housing gasket or cooler lines are leaking and the cooler lines have been on the car a very long time, just cut the lines out of the car before you loosen the the fittings with wrenches. Use a reciprocating saw.
2) Once the lines are cut near the filter housing, the housing can be removed. You can then remove the old flare nut fittings from the
housing while working off the car. I removed the compression fittings
from the filter housing, cleaned them, and reinstalled them
with some JB Weld as a thread locker. It's all in the video.
3) Be careful loosening the flare nut fittings at the cooler. Use
a 22mm wrench to hold onto the cooler while you loosen the flare nut
with your 27mm. Just use open ended wrenches. There is no
need in making or purchasing special flare nut wrenches.
4) The turbo oil line may not line up at the filter housing during
reassembly. I suspect this is due to the difference in gasket thickness.
Disconnect the turbo oil line at the air breather bracket and the
turbo to give yourself some room for adjustment. The turbo oil line is also
attached at the back of the engine but there is no need to loosen that one.
You can slide the line a little bit regardless.
5) It's probably best to disconnect the lower radiator hose
and drain the coolant. You will need to raise then engine farther
than you expect in order to snake the cooler lines through the engine compartment.
Raising the engine this far puts a strain on the lower radiator hose and the radiator
fitting. Remember, the radiator tank is plastic.
6) Attach the lower oil line at the filter housing first. Leave the
top one disconnected to keep it out of the way. Keep the two hold-down
brackets loosely attached during this to keep the lines in place but
yet give you enough slack to move things around a bit.
7) When reattaching the cooler lines at the cooler, hold onto the
steel part of the line with one hand and tighten the flare nut with the
other hand. This will keep the line form moving WITH the flare nut
when it starts getting tight. There is no need to hold the cooler with a
wrench while tightening.
8) You do not need to use a lot of torque to tighten the lines
at the housing or the cooler. Let the compression fittings do the work.
If it leaks a little, after you crank the engine, tighten it a little more.
You don't won't to over tighten these connections. Be careful.
9) Motor Mounts - Getting these to line up for reassembly can be a challenge. I discuss this how to get around this problem in the video.
10) If the injection pump rack damper pin is original to your car, replace it.
You'll be working in that area anyway. The new ones from Mercedes are upgraded with better springs. It will make your engine run and idle better.
Parts:
Qty 2 - Motor Mount Bolts: (Local Hardware Store)
12.9 Grade M10x1.5 Socket Cap Screw - 40mm UHL (40mm of threads under the head)
Upper oil cooler line - Cohline - 6171800582
www.rmeuropean...
Lower oil cooler line - Merecedes - 617-180-01-82-MBZ
www.pelicanpar...
Mercedes Engine Oil Filter Flange Gasket - Reinz 6161840780
www.fcpeuro.co...
Oil - Chevron Delo 400 SDE
www.walmart.co...
Filter - Mercedes Engine Oil Filter Kit - Mann 0001802509
Diesel Fuel Injector Pump Idle Adjuster Screw - Mercedes 0000742674
www.fcpeuro.co...