1997 Ford Ranger Water Pump 4 cyl Replacement

[@zeekdornier2946]

9 years later and your video is still saving people. Definitely helped me out. I was about to grab a recip saw and get very intimate with that damn hose/pipe until I saw this video and realized it’s bolted on. I’m thinking I’ll remove the alternator just to make things easier, but not sure if that’ll end up being more of a hassle. At least I know why the damn thing wasn’t budging. May the good Lord bless you

[@ChadBishopSr]

I can't tell you how much I appreciate you saying what the Haynes manual says. I changed my timing belt last summer and was going to exhaust everything before I took the cover off. It was my next step when I decided to come here looking to see if the inlet tube was fixed in place.

[@garymucher9590]

I realize this is an older video. But I have been looking for somebody that has actually had the same setup that I have with my 95 2.3l Ranger engine. Yes, I have that exact same setup and every video I've seen on here was without that extra metal pipe attached to the three bolt water pump. Thanks you for posting this video. I now have a way to try and get mine off...

[@jeffreys.harris3433]

Yes it's a beast to get off! It took me for hours of lip biting & and PTSD that I suffer from just thinking about it. LOL mine was a 6 cylinder 97 Ford ranger XL

[@bestseedorchard1107]

Mine had a metal water pump extension, the new ones are plastic. The metal one was rusted solid inside the pump connector. Absolutely imposable to remove. I used a screwdriver as a chisel and hammered a channel along the length of the flange then broke the flange to remove the extension. Order a new extension whenever you replace the pump. Seal the threads on the pump bolts one of them opens to the water jacket of the block and can leak if not sealed.

[@mytsigns]

Heki, clean the end of the pipe that goes into the water pump real well. (I used steel wool). Slide the o-ring on, then use waterproof grease liberally where it goes into the pump. Bolt the pump to the block, then feed the pipe up into the pump from underneath (it's a little tough to line thing up, since you can't see anything...use a work light.) Push it up until you can bolt it in, and that should be enough, the o-ring will seal it if greased. Good luck!

[@mikesaltman]

This answered a lot of questions about my 97

[@JerryOSmith]

Thank you! I am doing the water pump today.

[@SydneyAlexis35]

You gave me the one peace of info that i was looking for in five other video guide's so thank you for being helpful and thanks to the other handy video...

[@gshell6261]

I caught Hades trying to follow the Chilton's manual when my friend suggested I look on KZbin. I saw your video and it was right to the point. I got it right out. As soon as I went back and fixed what the manual wrongly told me...

[@FinickyGreek]

I have a 97 Ford Ranger and was relieved to know that I don't have to take the timing belt cover off, like I did when replacing the water pump on my previous Mitsubishi truck. Thanks for the video.

[@dissturbbed]

I have a 99 ford ranger and that tube that connects to the water pump is made out of plastic now. Looks exactly the same but plastic, it was frozen solid inside the the water pump. In fact i broke the plastic trying to pull it out of the pump. I ended up having to order the part on ebay for $23, have fun peeps.

[@timlovick87]

Great video brother.

[@smoke3571985]

i had to replace my alternator and water pump so it was a little easier since i had to take off the alternator first 97 2.3

[@pistolcarrier]

What a bitch of a job! I broke one of the plastic ears on the lower pipe where the bolts hold it to the block. Hopefully one bolt will hold it in place and keep it from leaking. Who designed this shite anyway? But thanks for this video!! Knowledge is everything! You're my hero! (But I hope I sell this truck before I have to do that job again!)

[@mytsigns]

Sell it to me...

[@JoshAU44]

Mine just went on a 97. So I'm currently staring this job in the face. Not looking forward to it. Removing that tubing behind the alternator looks like a bear. Very helpful video though. Appreciate it.

[@neaituppi7306]

That's actually what I figured to do, and already did it. The truck has been running for about a week, and not a drop of coolant.

[@austinvickymoore3656]

Thank god I was wondering what the hell I was supposed to do for this!!!

[@antbonyziemiak208]

You might be able to use a earlier one piece molded hose . I dont know what year ford went to a 2 piece hose instead of a 1 piece hose like on my 94 (2.3 L.)

[@antbonyziemiak208]

Im glad i have a 94 ranger. The 94 uses a rubber hose all the way from the bottom of the radiator and then snakes up behind the alternator to the pump. 1 piece molded hose. Im working on mine now. ONE THING TO DO TO MAKE IT A WHOLE LOT EAISER IS TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC GRILL !!!!! About 5 or 6 Phillips screws to remove it. Then you have direct frontal access !! Irs the only way you can see properly to scrape ALL of the 28 year old baked on GASKET off. Use CRC GASKET REMOVER --- NOT PERMATEX BRAND. The Permatex brand has a brush on the end with a finger/thumb press that doesn't work. I think the fumes from the product swelled/sealed up the tiny, tiny passageway threw the brush. I took of the brush part and pressed the plastic nozzle against the GASKET whereupon the stuff would gush out uncontrollably. Big mess. And then it still was ineffective. With the CRC gasket remover its a much more controllable spray. It allows you to spray just a little at a time in a narrow focused spray. The GASKET AREA BEHIND THE TIMEING BACK COVER IS THE HARDEST TO GET TO. I have scrapers and mini chisels (artists mini carving tools) to get behind the back of the timing cover. My front timing cover came off pretty easy because i dont have power steering and air conditioning. REVOVE THE GRILL AND YOU CAN SEE AND REACH IN TO WORK ON A LOT OF STUFF. 6 Phillips screws.

[@kevinroark4346]

just changed one in a 1996Ranger it was a pain,I had to remove the timing belt cover off,unbolt sirvompressor.

[@neaituppi7306]

Okay, I got the exact truck and situation. I got the pipe off, but now, I am trying to get the pipe back into the new water pump. RPV? There is no room to hammer it in.

[@arthurbennett7674]

I'm having the same issue right now any tips on how to put the pipe back in and make a seal

[@sargcj3263]

It's not exactly easy. I think it's intended to squeeze and maybe lightly "pop" into place where it will be tough-ish. The bracket is supposed to hold it in position from the looks of things... Overall stupid design. I'm looking into a way to run a hose to a T connection fitting, but the design of the water pump makes it hard to get a good, secure fit, plus sizing of the hose.

[@jeffreys.harris3433]

What size meter is it?

[@glennnewnum6378]

How do you put the pipe back in ? The o-ring makes it difficult to re-install the pipe. How did you go about putting the pipe back in?

[@jordanhill8297]

Wish he would have replied

[@torirucker4517]

great post

[@lisawolf335]

Thank you !!

[@deongalesmr.all_about_your2016]

Going through this problem now

[@zsoltdobak3639]

Thanks

[@bobbyb7127]

What brand water pump did you buy? How is it holding up? Motorcraft is $135 1aauto is $35, I don't want to go too cheap but don't want to get ripped off either. Anybody else can help me with this, id appreciate it. Thanks for the video.

[@mytsigns3726]

Hi Bobby B., I just used whatever brand Autozone was selling at the time. The truck is still on the road with 275k miles, and the pump is still going strong since I replaced it for this video (knock on wood). The thermostat...not so much. Good luck.

[@bobbyb7127]

Thanks Myt Signs, my 98 Ranger just turned 250k. Great yours is still on the road too!

[@michaelwalker7570]

Just take the alternator loose and move it forward out of the way, you Don't even have to undo the wiring, then you can see to get that pipe out of the water pump.