1kW water cooled LED build - Part 1

[@MrKurtay]

Nice job! I am a photographer; bearing in mind that Led Lights (especially such setup) is quite a focus light source already, for a room/garage/workshop similar the outside areas would be dimmed variable depending on the size of the area. Hence the reason also why you have yellow cast on edges! Instead of attaching lenses, perhaps better to consider a soft white diffuser panel over them (without any lenses) to spread the light around like a fluorescent light. Then you'd have a well balanced spread light source and a well lit up area. Softer the light more the spread. I hope it helps. 👍🏼

[@SeanBZA]

Doing the orings again i would suggest cutting the ends at a 30 degree angle, clean with solvent then use activator on the one side, and Loctite rubber loaded superglue on the other in a very thin film. Simply stick together and the glue sets in 5 seconds, and makes a join that is as strong as the neoprene, but which is flexible. Just sand the edge of the join level to finish it. Makes a hermetic seal, I used to do it to fix hermetic seals in avionics, as the seal was the same neoprene rubber extrusion.

[@tylerloertscher7322]

good call...;)

[@jayc2469]

Superglue = automatic weakness! Awesome work BTW! On that gasket material there, melting the ends together is far better. I worked in a well known Television Manufacture Company in the 90's and on remote control pulleys, we would often replace the bands and weld the ends with heat :)

[@robmckennie4203]

That tap looked to be running out something fierce to begin with. It seemed to straighten out after the first hole, but that snapping sound just about gave me a heart attack

[@tesla500]

The floating tap holder has a little bit of play, and on top of that I didn't have the right size tap holder, so it's sitting in an adapter that fits into a much larger holder, adding more runout.

[@XJohuX]

the best setup of those LEDs i've seen so far

[@RinoaL]

this turned out really beautiful, and i like that you used the water cooling parts from that Coherent laser thingy.

[@reps]

When compressed those rubber strings get slightly longer and usually form a good seal without glue. I'd lubricate the groove a bit!

[@NickMoore]

Wow, what a beast! Your final set up is going to be somewhere between atomic bomb flash and surface of the sun viewed from 3meters.

[@davey2k12]

Bout right bro I wanna make one for full spectrum

[@willyou2199]

Nah. The best LEDs can do like 170lm/W. Notice "best". He's running them at 1kW. At the very most, assuming these LEDs are good quality and are the BEST, you're getting 170k lumens. A clear sunnday day at noon, the sun shines about 100k lumens per square meter on earth. What this is saying is that if he shined that 1kW on a piece of 2m^2 of land, he may come close to approximating a sunny day on that 2m^2 of land. nothing on the scale of an atom bomb. he's just trying to replicate a small piece of an average sunshine.

[@iruleustupidcrackhea]

big thumbs up for the video, if you put the heat exchangers in parallel you'll get a more even temp on every lamp and increase the overall efficiency of the setup

[@daves3819]

Wow, that's a lot of LED's..... and light! In theory if you hold the lux meter 1 metre directly in front of the lights you should get close to 40,000 lux (assuming 4,000 lumens per LED). That's getting close to the brightness of sunlight on a sunny day. I measure 40,000 lux in my greenhouse on such a day. Great video, thanks.

[@chrisscott1547]

Neat! You're one of the very few who understand the thermal limitations of high power leds.

[@simmydsimmyd]

That poor cat is probably blind now.

[@cptcrogge]

hahaha

[@therealfranklin]

Faster irises than humans.

[@techcheck5019]

Faster won't stop it's eyes from being hurt (actually the reverse), cats are actually more sensitive to light than humans. If it was looking directly into the light it would have damaged it's eyes if it looked for too long, but animals know to not do that so it's fine. Just like cats and dogs don't stare at the sun either, they know not to.

[@piotrr5439]

KFC kentucky fried cat

[@chanzonofficial8362]

Awesome ! Thanks for your order ! You're very professional !

[@BlueEyeDK]

how i understand watercooling is that there is a loop from intake to outlet. you watercooling block dont have that. intake and outlet is 1cm apart and no loop, so the water i the far end do not get changed... there will be water but no cooling. Love you build amazing led..

[@hadmatter5714]

Sanding the back of the lens to give it a frosted look should help to remove the yellow band, as it diffuses the yellow through the rest of the beam. I tried it on my 100w led and it worked pretty well. Just an idea to consider!

[@FrankSandqvist]

Your channel is definitely tied to Mikes Electric Stuff as my favorite! :D

[@TheNoelcr]

48 led's......man that would grow some serious dank bro!!!

[@SahabuddinTanrkulu]

This laser cut more beautiful than actual project :)

[@voltlog]

Wow it was awesome to watch you build this. It must be the most powerful and coolest looking diy led lighting system.

[@bitcoredotorg]

Awesome build, very nice delta T. I can't wait to see more high speed with your new lights! Thanks for the video.

[@Flimzes]

The color temperature of the LED's looks decent enough, but the CRI leaves a lot to be desired, your Halide lamp provides a much better video-light. You notice this by the green tint that turns your skin into a ghastly color, the halide lamp almost looks pink afterwards because our eyes have tried to adjust to the lacking red output from the LED's. DIY Perks talks about this in his video-light videos

[@mrfrog8502]

This must be youtube first. I haven't seen anybody using those LEDs to this extreme.

[@lululombard]

I saw a video of a dude with the same amount of LEDs but portable with 6 min of battery. But the cooling solution wasn't efficient so I doubt the LED would last 6 min. But yeah, a 1000w flashlight.

[@tesla500]

When I'm done the five of these I'm going to strap them to a board and power them with Lipo batteries just to smash the record for the most powerful handheld flashlgiht, which currently stands at 1.8kW AFAIK: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXapn5iKe9FplZY

[@MichaelGordon33]

You'd be better off spending more money for more efficient LEDs (e.g. name brand LEDs like the CXB series from Cree) in a flashlight where you have limited power and cooling capability compared to something that plugs into the wall.

[@godfreypoon5148]

+tesla500 If you do it, I'm gonna outdo you. :D

[@tesla500]

Godfrey Poon Bring it on! I have plans for a 10kW man-portable flashlight if I have time to do it.

[@grunthostheflatulent269]

I'm currently amazed by the QE and light intensity from such a thin layer of hypnotically-irridescent metallization on a slice of sapphire - revealed by removing the phosphorescent layer and looking closely. I digress: ha-ha-ha ha'lide. The quartz bulb is filled with Halides! HALIDES! (nicht, hay'lides)

[@Mr_Wh1]

If the water is flowing at even low speed, the temperature difference will be insignificant because the water loops so many times a minute. The water will heat up gradually.

[@AdrienGaryLucca]

About the color temperature changes, I think a more correct explanation is that the wavelength of the blue LED which fires blue light at the phosphors placed on the top varies with the current/voltage applied. Very likely, at normal current/voltage the LED emits primary photons with a peak wavelength of 450 nm, but when the current/voltage is low, the peak wavelength moves towards 460 nm, which is greener. 460 nm is just the peak wavelength, but your LED also emits photons at 470nm, 480 nm, 490nm...etc even if in proportion they are just a few. However common LED phosphors are bad at converting photons beyond 480 nm, and you are production relatively more of them when you are using a low current/voltage. The result of this is that you are getting lots of greenish-blue photons (between 480 and 500 nm) that makes your light turn yellowish or greenish.

[@confuseatronica]

there's these little dessert egg custard things you get at dim sum places and other asian food. Those trays of LED modules look like trays of those.

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

What a brilliant project, thanks for the illuminating video.

[@CJWarlock]

Watched the video. Liked it. Subscribed. I'm into DIY power LED lamps myself (maybe only without watercooling for now) so I can appretiate the effort you put in all the designing, CNC milling and cutting, sealing the waterblock (thanx for the seal compression rate BTW!), mounting it all together, and the thought behind the whole project. Nice to see a skilled enthusiast with attention to details. Keep up the good work and have fun with it. :)

[@spectrHz]

Whenever I glue o-rings from cord stock I wrap the glue joint in Teflon tape to ensure a good seal

[@DantalionNl]

I like your logo :)

[@spectrHz]

Thanks! I had a lot of fun making it and it is by far my favorite logo for Spectrum Labs :3

[@JesseJames83]

It's setting the wooden table on fire... let's make a wooden enclosure for it!

[@lukasbekcic]

Jesse James the table was burning when the light was on it, with the enclosure almost no light would hit it since there are lenses and reflectors on it. They make the spread about 60° so the wood would stay cool.

[@JesseJames83]

@@lukasbekcic do most jokes go over your head?

[@patryk2652]

@@lukasbekcic That was a loud WOOOSH

[@lukasbekcic]

Oops I’ll take responsibility for that, my bad. It was a shit joke so it didn’t really register.

[@patryk2652]

@@lukasbekcic Cant not agree with you lol

[@GadgetAddict]

Incredible. It looks amazing and you did a fantastic job. Is this comparable to existing lights used for high-speed video/photography?

[@tesla500]

The nearest comparable thing I could find is this 800W LED photography light for $8k www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247202-REG/nila_nar1d_d_arina_deluxedayklight_led_fixture.html

[@anchordean1450]

Gadget Addict and

[@qwertyqwerty-ve2el]

What tubes used for water? How to find them on sale? Whats rifling used in connectors for connecting tubes and the block?

[@peteb1363]

I like your systematic approach and the inherent scalability of what you do. I am guessing you're not into shortcuts and half-arse rigging. Excellent work

[@drEmulatorMadmax]

@ 16:47 is that a cat ? cool video btw 👍

[@kap3r0n]

Very nice design. Im sure that if you added a larger radiator those LED's would be at least 20% cooler. :P

[@wlfwrose]

What you did there, I saw it.

[@AleksandrMotsjonov]

I like the Sharpies used as a stabilisers for water pump ;-)

[@brianthomas8887]

Sir, i enjoyed every moment of watching your video, wonderful to look at and listen to, looking forward to the next program that you have to show. Thank you, Brian Thomas.

[@Mardsds]

Nice Rainbow dash shirt you got there :D

[@amoniousbt1110]

i spotted the pony on the wall before i saw your comment.

[@jolesco]

I'll be looking forward to nicely lit highspeed footage made with this rig in the future :)

[@torgo_]

I wish I knew how to tinker around and make cool contraptions. :( I should have abandoned astrophysics and instead fooled around with stuff like this, it must be so rewarding to see the tactile fruits of one's labour materialise.

[@aserta]

It's not really that complicated. You need to fiddle a bit with some reading material, and get some hands on experience with smaller test pieces, which, mind you, are dirt cheap from eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress etc. You can only go up with these. But you're right, the tactile results are quite pleasing. I have several lamps i made myself and i get far more enjoyment in knowing i made them, not to mention, i know how much i can abuse them, than with store bought equivalents. And, mind you, my field of expertise is architecture, thus, even further than yours. Cheers.

[@DR-br5gb]

I got out of physics after my third year for exactly this. Visited fermilab with a group and was told by the director that there is a shortage of "lego kids" this resonated with what i was already thinking as a career in theoretical research was starting to freak me out so I switched to mechanical and never looked back.

[@Bruisader]

That was great . But do try it outside in dark . It is much better for a newbie to understand that way rather than lux meter

[@maikeydii]

When gluing o-rings I have usually just waited that the superglue dries and then cut the excess off with a sharp knife. This way leaves less mess on the o-ring surface from the smeared glue. About the design of the groove, your compression ratio sounds ok for the application (recommended compression is from 18 to 28% in static hydraulic face seal applications) but you really should leave some free space in the groove as the elastomer is not compressible. It will only deform. For the o-ring cross section you are using the width of groove should be about 0,177 - 0,187" (4,49 - 4,75mm).

[@seansmith4440]

Yikes that first tap looked wobbly.

[@jagadeeshks4601]

awesome.. u have all the tools u need!! god blessed you amigo..

[@technicallearneronlysaarth2097]

Really so bright idea and LED also.👍

[@jakejager]

Should use Shoe Goo thinned with some Xylene to connect rubber/soft plastics. It is a rubber cement but is super strong. Use it in my RC cars for everything from strengthening the bodies to patching broken parts...stuff is really good as an adhesive and as a hard rubber seal too ;)

[@unlokia]

Jony Ive would be proud of you.

[@freshkryp69]

Always chuck up the tooling as close to the work piece as you can get without hitting the collet, your surface finish will be much better due to reduced chatter and run out..

[@MyBigThing2010]

man, I'd kill for s machining setup like that at the house! lucky dude!

[@TormentedVet_Reactions]

Even though the o-ring worked. RTV might also be useful considering your machining the mating surfaces flat. Which from what I could tell would give you more room for water inside... looks great though

[@aserta]

To avoid using O-rings altogether, just machine a slanted surface on both pieces that mates with a very, very small gap in between them (the slanted surfaces themselves), then, inside that channel, put high temperature gasket silicone, the kind you can buy in a small (jumbo sized, tooth paste tube or there about) tube from just about any auto store online or not. Heck, i found mine from an universal mini store for less than two dollars and used it to seal a pressure vessel that i can't find O-rings anymore, for. Waaay less hassle, cheaper, and also, easy to clean, because once it cures, the thing becomes an gasket that you peel off.

[@collinrohwer1790]

Glad I came across this and your channel, awesome work man.

[@thomasschoelkopf9881]

So awesome. Thank you for making such a great video. It was really enjoyable!!!!

[@duroncrush]

Dimples if you just used the tip of a drill bit and made a line of dimples along the bottom of the water channels. They'd create more turbulence and break up the boundary layer

[@pipeepapofckgug3633]

I somewhat hope you do have a closed cooling fluid circuit Also, I do not remember all that much about my adhesive technology lecture, but there's two things: first, superglue (Cyanacrylat-based) stiffens as it hardens, affecting the effectiveness of an elastic seal. Second, Cyanacrylat bonds to water, so your joint will simply dissolve after a while. I mean, honestly, this will most probably not happen as long as you conduct this experiment, but still... These are some minor things I remember of my studies, so maybe finally they will help somebody :P

[@thomashardin911]

21:15 light and radar are similar, they both help you see stuff, and they both make heat! You could cook something with this light ^_^

[@oz93666]

Interesting build ...but for "high speed filming" , surely the light only needs to be on a short while ... those led's can run with no heatsink for about 6 secs 100W each ... can run over rated value at 150w for a few secs no heat sink ... very easy to strobe

[@Morionetwo]

very nice build

[@alexkarbassi436]

Absolutely brilliant video!!

[@samserious1316]

Mount them on a disco ball and you'd have a miniature sun.

[@reinaldou8847]

NOW! that is what a ineed for my weed garden!

[@charlesmartin5565]

So from my experience in liquid cooling of computers. The order In which u run our loop has almost 0 effect of the temperature of the coolent though out the loop. The coolent moves through the loop to quickly to be effected from one spot to the next. The effect that happens is the coolent temp as a whole will rise up and u will see even cooling acose the loop as long as u don't have all your blocks in series and u break the loop up with radiators. Basically what im saying you should worry about different temps across a single block.

[@RAMSHACKLE28]

Nice, gotta get me some of those cnc toys...

[@C2welder]

For better turbulence in the water path you could cut sharp steps in the depth of the passages.

[@michalmichalsk]

4000K is warm white. 5500K is daylight/pure white

[@mrclucker1969]

Wow - there is loads of light from that single block - and you want more of them??? You will need a heat resistance suit on when you are in there!!

[@RicardoMartinsP]

Amazing! Thanks from Brazil!

[@ZevHoover]

the yellow fringe around the edge of the light spot is just from the lenses roughly focusing an image of the dies of the LED. there is a space around the edge of the 100 dies where there is extra phosphor and since you are focusing an image you see that around the edge. a two lens solution could remove this, or a diffuser behind the lenses, or maybe just a mask right in front of the LEDs that just covers the very edge.

[@tesla500]

Thanks for the suggestion. I came to the same conclusion after a little investigation. I did some quick testing, and a mask around the outside of the phosphor area solves the problem.

[@ZevHoover]

tesla500 cool! you really are making the most interesting projects on youtube, very inspirational.

[@KG-jx2zl]

your cat just chilling in front of the light looking directly into it xD

[@rahulpathania78]

Wonderful.. though I just wonder won't the heat smoke up the wooden enclosure like it did to the table.

[@IkaikaArnado]

nice rig dude! my envy meter is red lining right now. I'd love to build a portable and modular ultra bright LED strip panel(s) for filming and photography as well! great work!

[@Forte_FX]

great job, now repeat and sell !!

[@jubjunior]

Nice video!

[@aurimasknieza7320]

if i made such project i would have tested that waterblock for leaks and used thermal compound for better thermal efficiency between LED heatspreader and waterblock

[@LevonAvagyan]

Have a closer look at about 12:33, he IS using thermal paste.

[@aurimasknieza7320]

+Levon Avagyan my bad :-(.... didnt see that big tube of thermal paste because of quick timelapse

[@intravena]

5:25 a bad 'Money For Nothing' rip off?

[@ArlenMoulton2]

I thought the same

[@locouk]

What an awesome job, will you be modding a lawnmower and using an extra heavy blade too? I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. Thanks for using Deg C too, I understand that. :)

[@fallingwater]

Very interesting video! I wish I had a machining setup like that. *sigh* Anyway, for the future: superglue/cyanoacrilate is not a good adhesive for rubber - it hardens and unsticks very easily as soon as any stress is applied at all. A much better solution for a rubber-rubber (or rubber-plastic) bond is cement of the kind sold for patching bicycle tires. I'm sure even better specialised glues are available, but tire cement is dirt-cheap and available anywhere.

[@TheFreezeChill]

10 seconds after turning the LEDs on full power "hmm the aluminum on the back side isn't warm yet."

[@manderley987]

hey man you said you needed better cooling why don't you run that larger radiator without the fan and submerge it in icy water and then go buy a second on and run that with a fan air cooled then when your slo mo recording you may be able to over clock your lights for a bit longer if you need to but anyway i love your work keep on on going man :)

[@frederikroark]

I have always wondered... why is facing off so important? The metal is flat already after all!

[@romanabramov5543]

It would be interesting to see how this projector works with a helicopter or a balloon, can it be used for rescue services for people search ?

[@jeronimomurruni]

Seems that you bought good quality LED's, because all of the internal LED cells lit up at the same time

[@tesla500]

Yes, they were about $7 each vs $3 for the cheap ones. Well worth the extra money.

[@MsSomeonenew]

Surprisingly your tap didn't snap right at the start, you had it wobbling all over the place, that is usually how things go horribly wrong.

[@maujobricher4618]

Hi. Just watched your video and it’s a good job. I want to realize a water cooled leds installation like this for my fish tank whig will use the water of the aquarium. Like this i will not use a water heater anymore. Thanks for your ideas

[@TrueRebel]

excellent work bro.

[@maclenio100]

Could u pls explain the circuit? each 2 led is in series? all in parallel? Could u make a project using 12v 10w leds? Is it possible to drive with ATX power supply? I mean, 12 units in parallel without driver or resister with an ATX power supply? U have great equipments, is it for fun or u work with? Your video is one of the greatest I've seen in youtube.

[@tesla500]

The LEDs are wired 2 in series. Five of those [2 in series] blocks are wired in parallel, so 2s5p. These high-power LEDs are only available in 30V, you could do a 12V system using 10w LEDs which run at about 9V and use a dropper resistor off an ATX power supply. Yep, it's generally fun to work with the equipment, all though it can get monotonous after awhile making many of the same part.

[@superdau]

That screw assortment in the small plastic drawers isn't by any chance the salvage from taking stuff apart? Because if it is, that's exactly how I store the rest of whatever was disassembled. ;)

[@Air-vf6cn]

all man it your light was so beautiful prior to adding the fire hassert wooden frame :(

[@clarkso65]

Awesome skill!

[@RichardsWorld]

Good friends have a laser cutting machine.

[@mikeselectricstuff]

For high-speed, do you actually need it to be on for long enough to need water cooling ?

[@t1mmy13]

It's something less to worry about, I guess

[@brothyr]

Setup time.

[@berni8k]

Good point, but it was a good excuse to make those sweet looking water blocks.

[@tesla500]

For many shots yes, a big solid aluminum block on the back would suffice, perhaps with a modest air cooled heatsink to allow reasonable duty cycle. But there's setup and focusing which can take time with multiple cameras, and certain pesky events where you don't quite know when they're going to happen.

[@hawkie333]

Very, very cool. TAANSTAAFL, especially in physics....the fan is the only downside I can see. Is it quiet enough to not affect your audio? I guess with the kind of videos you do, fan noise isn’t an issue.

[@steubens7]

i hate being that guy, there are probably sawn fine pitch heatsinks but the go-to method is extrusion, you can even try to do it 'poorly' with copper and get a rough surface and thin fins

[@davey2k12]

Cud use high temp sealant used on engine exhaust 👍

[@AlphaNerd132]

Why did you have the water shield on the milling of the water ways but not for the spot drills?

[@PixelHex]

Hello! Have you considered selling the aluminum housing (back and front)? I don't have access to a CNC machine but I am willing to pay for having one. And I don't believe I am the only one. Thanks!

[@aqib2000]

PixelHex can supply

[@berni8k]

I wonder how the finished setup will compare with direct sunlight. Pretty good chance beating it in brightness i think.

[@tesla500]

About half the intensity of direct noon day sunlight. I measured direct sunlight to be 120,000 lux, 5 of these should do about 60,000 lux in the configuration I'll run them in

[@antonfloor344]

Thats a cool ASS lamp🤛🏼🤛🏼

[@anthonyalbanese1993]

Just wanted to say, as a recent subscriber who pretty much went through and watched a lot of your videos, I enjoy the quality of this latest upload. Random question though, are you an electrical engineer or some other engineering trade? I'm quite curious on where you got so much of your optoelectronics knowledge, as that's my biggest field of interest.

[@tesla500]

Thanks! I'm and EE but I dabble in a lot of other things too, mechanical, optical, etc. I learned a decent amount about optics when I was working on the design of a Raman spectrometer at a previous job, and of course from work on the high-speed camera.

[@faidularcs]

Great job 👏👏👏👏

[@DeezNuts-xo2ee]

That thing is bad ass